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Did somebody make Dr. Fishopolis a mod or IK to give him the belief he can dictate who can post ITT? EDIT: resurrected a couple old Raspberry Pis so I can monitor prints while at work. It looks like some old plug-ins for Telegram that I used to use may have been replaced by some new/better plug-ins. What do you guys use? Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 16:20 on Aug 8, 2022 |
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Aug 8, 2022 16:16
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Spaghetti detective (or whatever its called now) has been my go to. Need to check on the state of the klipper plugin again though, its been a bit. E. Looks like its obico now?
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Aug 8, 2022 16:27
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Dr. Fishopolis posted:also nerobro you post a ton of great and helpful information but please for the love of god the condescending editorialization has to stop brother Noted, and Ill try. It was 4something am, I had already written most of it. Sunk cost? *shrugs* Dr. Fishopolis posted:e: also as nero pointed out, the way you're leveling isn't quite right, a bubble level won't really help you. you don't want to actually level the bed per se, you're tramming it to the x-carriage. better to check that nozzle height is consistent from one axis to the other, your bed can be perfectly level with a bubble but it won't matter if your x-axis isn't. My method for doing this on my i3, was I had a 40mm tall print that I'd usually use, but really anything that I could wedge in there would do it, and I'd put that between the frame and the gantry. Maybe that could be done on the ender? I think the gantry bracketry might get in the way. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 16:31 on Aug 8, 2022 |
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Aug 8, 2022 16:28
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Dr. Despair posted:Spaghetti detective (or whatever its called now) has been my go to. Need to check on the state of the klipper plugin again though, its been a bit. I was going to ask if it was OctoEverywhere. Edit: Obico has a subscription? Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 16:32 on Aug 8, 2022 |
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Aug 8, 2022 16:30
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Edit: Obico has a subscription? The "cloud" version does, but you can just run the server software on whatever: https://github.com/TheSpaghettiDetective/obico-server biracial bear for uncut posted:Did somebody make Dr. Fishopolis a mod or IK to give him the belief he can dictate who can post ITT? i'm just posting, dude. only person gatekeeping around here is you. e: and nero but he's cool, we all have late night regret posts Dr. Fishopolis fucked around with this message at 16:37 on Aug 8, 2022 |
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Aug 8, 2022 16:34
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Marsupial Ape posted:Has Creality ever talked about producing a five stepper driver board for the Ender 3 series? Since I’ve installed my dual-z axis, I have learned about the G43 command that, when inserted into your gcode, will auto level your dual z-axis. You need 5 discrete stepper drivers to execute G43, though. My set up uses a splitter cable that both stepper motors use to share a single stepper. If you run Klipper, you can have multiple slave MCUs. Toss a RAMPS board in there or similar and run all the steppers you want.
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Aug 8, 2022 16:44
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I’ve got a Prusa mini that I’m about to build; I’m wondering if I should have any additional tools on hand. I have a set of feeler gauges, should I have something to check squareness? Anything else?
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Aug 8, 2022 16:55
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So for my prusa mk3s+ clone I used generic lm8uu bearings that I cleaned with isopropyl alcohol and then packed with grease. I'm rebuilding my mk2.5s right now and I thought I'd cheap out on the IPA and used soapy water in an ultrasonic cleaner, then let them dry for a bit, then packed with grease. Now the bearings are leaving rust colored grease on the smooth rods 
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Aug 8, 2022 17:06
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Speaking of bearings and grease type stuff, for my Photon Mono X how often should I be cleaning/lubing the screw drive? I did it once after a dozen or so prints when the factory lube started getting dark, figuring it was probably breaking-in shavings and stuff. Now I'm just curious about maintenance and the website doesn't seem to give any kind of scheduling info. Also I used white lithium grease not whatever orange-ish lube it came with and I don't have a grease injection gun to push it in to the two side tracks so I've lubed the tracks manually. Any of that setting off alarm bells for anyone?
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Aug 8, 2022 17:24
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Snapshot posted:I’ve got a Prusa mini that I’m about to build; I’m wondering if I should have any additional tools on hand. I have a set of feeler gauges, should I have something to check squareness? Anything else? A small engineer’s square is helpful. As are better hex wrenches.
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Aug 8, 2022 17:26
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Snapshot posted:I’ve got a Prusa mini that I’m about to build; I’m wondering if I should have any additional tools on hand. I have a set of feeler gauges, should I have something to check squareness? Anything else? Sample size of one but the one I got before they came out with the Mini+ was really straightforward to put together with the provided tools and manual. We're talking step by step pictures and clearly labeled parts and tools. Did Prusa start cutting back on what they ship to help people put things together?
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Aug 8, 2022 17:38
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biracial bear for uncut posted:'K. I'm looking forward to it!
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Aug 8, 2022 17:40
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Look at the online version of the assembly instructions, there is a comment section there that can have helpful tips.
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Aug 8, 2022 17:57
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Sample size of one but the one I got before they came out with the Mini+ was really straightforward to put together with the provided tools and manual. Not to my knowledge, and the instructions look straight forward, and well written. I was just wondering if there was a gotcha somewhere in there. I know they’re a higher quality kit, but I don’t want to have to run out to get something mid build, when the local tooling supplier will likely be closed.
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Aug 8, 2022 17:58
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I just want to reiterate that in the DIY forums we are welcoming of beginners and bitter vets alike. We were all once beginners and some of us learn well by diving into long books on the subjects, some of us by tinkering and asking questions, and others are somewhere in the middle. These are also, for those maybe not in the know, discussion forums. This means the default answer to should I post is  and work from there. The very nature of specialist knowledge portals is having new people come in with seemingly the same question. The long term investing thread is basically people asking over and over if they should slam more money into their 401k. Often times in any subject this means that people will come in and ask what seem like boring repetitive questions. This is due in large part due to survivor bias - people who have learned enough to be entirely self sufficient are simply going to ask fewer newbie level questions, and people who don't like getting grouched at for asking newbie questions are going to leave. This thread has 189 pages of content filled with content, some good, some bad, who knows. If people want to come in here and ask a question that is covered in the OP that's fine. It's just like someone walking up to you at a hobby space and asking a newbie question that's covered by the notebook of "newbie questions" chained to the 3d printer. If you feel like helping, help out, and take a moment to word things in a positive tone. I'll give a template: "Welcome to 3d printing! I hope you have deep pockets because the ABS fumes make you think you should buy more and more stuff. I think the answer to what you're asking is covered pretty well here: <link>/in the op. Take a look and let us know if that doesn't solve your problem." If you find yourself feeling the need to be cranky/snarky/bitchy/whatever it had better be funny enough to counterbalance the crankyness. Otherwise, please email yourself a draft of your post and come back later. You can always re-write it. Or not post it and see if someone else comes along to help. The ABS fist of kindness starts here. People who have positive experiences will want to hang out and chat and be 3d printing buddies. Those who don't will be "in and out" through gritted teeth wondering if their question rises to the standards of the regulars or if abuse is headed their way. There will be no gatekeeping in the DIY forums. Unless you're making gates. In which case, I dunno, keep them.
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Aug 8, 2022 17:59
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slurm posted:What's your application for the PC blend? The new Prusa nylon looks nice, I'm working on an enclosure now which should help with a bunch of filaments, it's definitely my next step. I primarily use it for jigs and fixtures in the shop - I just made a self centering jig for cylindrical stock that’ll bolt directly to my drill press.
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Aug 8, 2022 18:02
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Can someone post a good stl for a gate model?
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Aug 8, 2022 18:04
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withak posted:Can someone post a good stl for a gate model? I have one but I'm keeping it 
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Aug 8, 2022 18:35
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withak posted:Can someone post a good stl for a gate model? Not an STL but it seems theme appropriate. https://grabcad.com/library/valterra-waste-gate-valve-1
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Aug 8, 2022 18:35
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Gadzuko posted:I have one but I'm keeping it
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Aug 8, 2022 18:45
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withak posted:Can someone post a good stl for a gate model? Do Stargates count?  Tweaked variant of https://www.printables.com/model/84452-milky-way-stargate, filled with resin.
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Aug 8, 2022 19:15
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slurm posted:Have you used it at all? I have some CF PETG that I need to try (afaik it's basically just an aesthetic filament of course, but an easy printing filament with a matte finish is still handy) Hey, sorry I missed this earlier but yes and I love it. CF PETG is also spectacular, it's PETG except even more heat resistant, zero stringing and stiff as hell. Only problem I've had is if it cools in the nozzle it can clog sometimes, but I'm sure that depends on the filament. I just run some cleaning filament through before it cools down. And keep it dry, of course. And use a hardened nozzle.
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Aug 8, 2022 19:34
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I miss PETT filament in terms of being the same price as PETG and widely available. It didn't absorb moisture and was otherwise the same as PETG in terms of print settings and mechanical properties of finished prints. Be nice if a big manufacturer converted over to it instead, but I'm sure price vs. profit margin is the main deciding factor.
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Aug 8, 2022 19:38
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mewse posted:So for my prusa mk3s+ clone I used generic lm8uu bearings that I cleaned with isopropyl alcohol and then packed with grease. The trick to saving IPA in an ultrasonic cleaner is to fill a ziploc bag with ipa thats just big enough for your parts, and put that in the cleaner thats filled with distilled or di water. Cuts way down on the ipa waste that way (at the cost of some bags).
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Aug 8, 2022 19:53
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Dr. Fishopolis posted:jesus christ this loving thread lmao i'm losing my mind I specifically pointed out that I know I don’t need the mod to circumvent the lecture about why I don’t need the mod that I got, anyway. I don’t need a reason to any anything to this printer besides the fact I want to do it. Bear is absolutely right: this is Marsupial Ape’s printer. And Marsupial Ape’s printer is fuckin’ rad. Anyway, Thank you for the answer. This is an upgrade that I know enough about electronics in general that I don’t want to gently caress with unless there’s an official drop in product. I can install anything you put infront of me, but loving with firmware and driver code is out side my realm of comfort. I’ll wait until Creality realizes there is demand before I move forward with this one. And to be clear…I don’t use a bubble level to level my bed. I use the bubble level I foolishly bought to level my bed but now know not to use for that to make sure both sides of my gantry are level. This is mostly to avoid binding. I’m a low T cuck that lets his CR-Touch do the leveling. I keep for getting this isn’t The Finer Arts and to format my questions like hi-fi stereo manual instructions.
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Aug 8, 2022 20:13
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Dr. Fishopolis posted:Hey, sorry I missed this earlier but yes and I love it. CF PETG is also spectacular, it's PETG except even more heat resistant, zero stringing and stiff as hell. Only problem I've had is if it cools in the nozzle it can clog sometimes, but I'm sure that depends on the filament. I just run some cleaning filament through before it cools down. And keep it dry, of course. And use a hardened nozzle. I'll do a Benchy today and see how it runs in my carbide nozzle. I want to get a bozzle if it comes back in stock and try to get more flow. NewFatMike posted:I primarily use it for jigs and fixtures in the shop - I just made a self centering jig for cylindrical stock that’ll bolt directly to my drill press. This is a really good application and I'll have to try some out next time I'm doing this. I use PETG a lot but it's so soft it's just throwaway and I hate the plastic waste. Edit: sorry if my posts are all "what about this one" "what about that one". I really like hearing individual people's experiences making different parts out of different materials vs. just reading guides or buying a bunch of stuff and trying it if it's expensive or long-lead-time. slurm fucked around with this message at 20:26 on Aug 8, 2022 |
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Aug 8, 2022 20:21
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Marsupial Ape posted:I specifically pointed out that I know I don’t need the mod to circumvent the lecture about why I don’t need the mod that I got, anyway. I don’t need a reason to any anything to this printer besides the fact I want to do it. Bear is absolutely right: this is Marsupial Ape’s printer. And Marsupial Ape’s printer is fuckin’ rad. On my Maker Select, which has two Z steppers, I put a solid item between the gantry and frame and manually drop the gantry by twisting the stepper coupling on both sides to get it generally square to the frame, then level the bed. Something like a marker or bottle that will fit beside the bed and reach the linear rods. I haven't put a second stepper on my Ender 3 but I did replace the mainboard with a MKS Gen. L and it was definitely a process. I have a SKR 1.4 Turbo board waiting for my maker select whenever I get around to it (it's been in the box for two years because I mostly use that printer for PETG and haven't been printing too much of that). Once the mainboard is replaced, it does essentially mean that all you use from the original printer is the frame, motion system, extruder (if you didn't replace it), hotend (if you didn't replace it), and power supply, but my Ender 3 is my most reliable printer after replacing the mainboard and extruder, plus the silent stepper drivers are a huge sanity saving improvement. I do think the drop in replacement mainboard from the manufacturer would prevent a lot of headaches and it's what I've recommended for folks with an Ender 3 without the silent stepper drivers, but I'm not sure they'll ever add an extra stepper driver to the board for a printer series that doesn't include one.
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Aug 8, 2022 20:29
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Snapshot posted:I’ve got a Prusa mini that I’m about to build; I’m wondering if I should have any additional tools on hand. I have a set of feeler gauges, should I have something to check squareness? Anything else? Some better hex keys are nice for your hands in the latter hours, and some paper towel is useful to wipe away excess grease (maybe that's even in the instructions? I don't recall). Otherwise pretty much everything you need is included and the build is pretty straightforward - just take it easy, read the instructions carefully and be sure to eat your gummi bears as instructed.
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Aug 8, 2022 21:27
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Dr. Despair posted:The trick to saving IPA in an ultrasonic cleaner is to fill a ziploc bag with ipa thats just big enough for your parts, and put that in the cleaner thats filled with distilled or di water. Cuts way down on the ipa waste that way (at the cost of some bags). drat that's a good idea. What goes wrong if I use tap water? I usually wouldn't ask but I just destroyed a set of bearings with tap water
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Aug 8, 2022 21:30
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Are there any tools or supplies people find indispensable for FDM printing? FDM really seems to be an area where people reinvent the wheel a lot because the barrier to entry is so low so maybe it's a good area for discussion. None of this is at all rocket science, but maybe there's more that other people have found good to keep around. This is kind of my day to day stuff. The wipes and IPA and acetone and glove and scraper really only get used for fussing with PLA on a plain PEI sheet, which is so sensitive to fingerprints. The upgraded hex keys are an essential.  I saw someone mention a small machinist square for assembly which I also recommend.
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Aug 8, 2022 21:30
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I got a pair of these smooth jaw pliers to hold the heat block while replacing the nozzle. They're not the cheapest ones but they don't mar the aluminum block and the end is angled enough to fit in there and hold it from the side (well, at 45 degrees or so): https://smile.amazon.com/IRWIN-VISE-GRIP-Adjustable-Plumbing-IRHT82635/dp/B07QM9L5VR/ You don't really need something like that but on a printer like the maker select where the heat block is only attached to the machine by the threads on the heatbreak tube it's good to keep it steady while unscrewing and replacing the nozzle. The Ender 3 has a couple of support posts on its hot end to keep it from twisting. I also have a kit of small pliers that have different shaped jaws which are useful for removing supports. Similar to this kit but I think mine was a 6 pack from lowes so they're husky branded or something, but they seem almost identical: https://smile.amazon.com/CRAFTSMAN-Pliers-6-Piece-Pouch-CMHT81716/dp/B07QL3CLRS/ This folding Stanley chisel is what I use to remove prints if they get stuck on the glass (plus a very small hammer if I need it): https://smile.amazon.com/Stanley-Hand-Tools-FMHT16145-Folding/dp/B00NOVP8KY It's sharper than a scraper and it folds closed so you don't cut yourself if you drop it off your table edge full of tools. The Scotty Peeler is a good print removal tool as well because it has a similar thin edge but it wraps around the front of the tool. It's made for removing labels from things so it's not quite chisel sharpness or heaviness but it does a good job. This one was suggested by Sagebrush. https://smile.amazon.com/Scotty-Peeler-Label-Sticker-Remover/dp/B006WFMGYK/ I don't have to use the removal tools much with the carborundum glass, but I still have normal borosilicate with glue stick for the maker select so they do get some use. I definitely agree on the hex wrenches, I got the same Wera set and they're great. It's a small thing but even just having them color coded helps remember which one goes where. Also good for setting up monitor arms and whatever else you need allen keys for that come with some terrible garbage ones.
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Aug 8, 2022 21:51
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Mmm. Accessories. On the hex tool topic, I suggest m4 and m3 hex bits for an electric screwdriver. After you take the fans on and off three times in a row while troubleshooting the hotend, your carpal tunnel will appreciate my advice. I’m a diy electronics hobbyist, so I already had like 80% of the more obscure tools I could possibly need. I have a silicone soldering mat that I can place the hot end on should I need it to be hot, but not on the gantry. I highly suggest a table mounted magnifying lamp. The magnification is useful, but I end up using as an over the shoulder spot light most of the time. Don’t know how I lived without it. This is a personal preference, but I have swapped all the stock m4 and m3 screws with ones I like better. I prefer the barrel head type because I can turn them with needle nose, if I have to. Also, I drop poo poo, so I just keep a box of open to the side instead of losing my mind pausing to hunt a screw in the carpet. That’s a mental health tip. Also, if you’re into adding fans and stuff, gently caress soldering. Get yourself a crimper and JCT connectors to wire up your fans. Again, you’re gonna being taking poo poo apart and splicing wire is a pain in the rear end, even if I am good at it. I don’t even solder my speaker terminals, anymore.
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Aug 8, 2022 22:33
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Thanks all, I’ve got a set of ball end t handle hex keys already and a 5” ish combination square. I might pick up a set of 1-2-3 blocks for the sheer hell of it.
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Aug 8, 2022 23:36
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So what's the deal with crimping connectors? I see the "proper" tools for most of them are like $500
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Aug 8, 2022 23:43
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slurm posted:So what's the deal with crimping connectors? I see the "proper" tools for most of them are like $500 I think you're looking at crimpers for much larger wire gauges or pressures than this? You can get a simple 22awg or whatever crimper for like $30? (I don't know I don't have the patience for 3d printing.) Like 0 AWG connectors are much more expensive because the stakes are higher.
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Aug 9, 2022 00:16
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Marsupial Ape posted:Anyway, Thank you for the answer. This is an upgrade that I know enough about electronics in general that I don’t want to gently caress with unless there’s an official drop in product. I can install anything you put infront of me, but loving with firmware and driver code is out side my realm of comfort. I’ll wait until Creality realizes there is demand before I move forward with this one. Honestly, CoreXZ is a better (and much cheaper) system than dual lead screws and they're more likely to jump on that bandwagon. Doing it aftermarket DEFINITELY requires firmware fuckery though, there's no way around that. Dr. Fishopolis fucked around with this message at 00:19 on Aug 9, 2022 |
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Aug 9, 2022 00:16
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Please stop posting accessories, I don't need to buy any more tools.
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Aug 9, 2022 01:54
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slurm posted:So what's the deal with crimping connectors? I see the "proper" tools for most of them are like $500 I work in an industry where we use a whole bunch of those $500 tools, and a lot of them aren't even built as well as this guy: https://www.amazon.com/XH2-54mm-XH3-96mm-Terminals-SN-01BM-%EF%BC%880-08-0-5mm2%EF%BC%89/dp/B01N4L8QMW Excellent for the common JST-XH and DuPont connectors you find on printers. You're probably also going to want Marsupial Ape's table mounted magnifying lamp for working with that kind of stuff, it's all just small and fiddly and can be really frustrating if you've never done it before. Or even if you do it for a living. *sigh*
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Aug 9, 2022 02:08
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withak posted:Please stop posting accessories, I don't need to buy any more tools. True, you should spend $300 on filament.
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Aug 9, 2022 02:12
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Rexxed posted:True, you should spend $300 on filament. Way ahead of you there.
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Aug 9, 2022 02:30
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