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I'm almost feeling like there's a point of diminishing returns with 3d printers as a tool in a hobby shop. Like once you have an enclosed printer that gets decently warm and you can reliably print ABS and do milder CF nylons and CF PC blends (which don't even really all need an enclosure) it seems like it might be more advantageous to add an aluminum or steel machining capability before getting into large format or toolchanging or stuff like that unless you're specifically doing cosplay or other geometry that requires it. Manual benchtop milling machine is comparable in price to the "prosumer" printers or a high end custom machine.
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Aug 11, 2022 04:44
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Are there DIY projects for 3d printed benchtop cnc and engraving machines that are actually worth the effort? That’s one of my more nebulous longterm goals with the printer.
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Aug 11, 2022 05:21
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Marsupial Ape posted:That is something I did not know but will squirrel away for later. I do appreciate this kind of guidance. *snip* I’ve come to the end of the road for the things I can do the machine and that makes me a little sad. I think I like loving with the 3D printer a little more than I like actually printing stuff. Since you're looking at it, what is your cooling solution? I'm running a herome5 with a pair of 4010's. A friend of mine went so far as to have a pair of 5015's. He literally was able to blow apart bridges. ... He didn't run 100% cooling after that. I'm not convinced linear rails are any better than big wheels. They're more compact... and come as "a solution" but if there's anything wrong, you're up the creek without a spare bearing. If you're interested in that story, I can expand on it. How about a few things that "aren't new firmware"? Wanna give printing an afterburner, and get the ABBN/LoudOwl on it? Or a Stealthburner? HeroMe Gen6? I ended up printing and using rail channel fillers on my printer, to make it easier to clean up. And.. to make it pretty. I believe there's room to install a nozzle brush and a purge bucket. I'm in the middle of trying to get that done for my V0. Beyond that, all the fun stuff starts coming with firmware. I get the feeling you're the sort of person who's got an Arduino hanging around, if you do, you can practice the firmware game without bricking your printer. Or.. maybe you've got an old raspberry pi hanging around? Marsupial Ape posted:Are there DIY projects for 3d printed benchtop cnc and engraving machines that are actually worth the effort? That’s one of my more nebulous longterm goals with the printer. Sure. There's a few. Lets see what other people come up with, I need to dig up my resources. I built a desktop size mill about 12 years ago now. The Klienuber Brute https://web.archive.org/web/20190212023111/http://www.crankorgan.com/brute.htm But that's entirely not 3d printed. Off the top of my head: https://ivanmiranda.com/collections/products/products/3d-printed-desktop-cnc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ctyLjOHg7Ag Nerobro fucked around with this message at 05:34 on Aug 11, 2022 |
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Aug 11, 2022 05:27
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csammis posted:
Here's the reddit FDM printer recommendation list for 2022 so far. Richie has been pretty good at keeping everything updated for all price points. I'd expect the Bambu and Prusa XL being the main ones added to it as they start rolling out more. https://old.reddit.com/user/richie225/comments/rnillw/generic_fdm_printer_recommendations_2022/ One new one that I'm keeping my eye on that is an alternative to the KP3S is the Tronxy (yes I know) CRUX 1 which just released and has very similar specs but includes a runout sensor, attached spool holder and integrated power supply. Nero 3D did an unboxing of it recently and it looks like it has potential as a cheap printer - at least once you take care of all the usual cheap printer things like replacing tinned wires with ferrules and stuff like that. Especially since it's a Tronxy.
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Aug 11, 2022 10:50
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Call For Updated Recommendations
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Marsupial Ape posted:Are there DIY projects for 3d printed benchtop cnc and engraving machines that are actually worth the effort? That’s one of my more nebulous longterm goals with the printer.
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Aug 11, 2022 10:58
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I've been half-eyeballing the Mostly Printed CNC for a while, but haven't really dug in deep to see how people are actually faring once it's built. https://docs.v1engineering.com/mpcnc/intro/
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Aug 11, 2022 11:49
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Acid Reflux posted:I've been half-eyeballing the Mostly Printed CNC for a while, but haven't really dug in deep to see how people are actually faring once it's built. One caveat here is that the creator of it is an rear end in a top hat that will sic his fan base (because of course he has one) on anybody that builds one and posts about it without fellating his brilliance. Also I think he tried to sue Tom Sanlanderer for building one on his YouTube channel and making modifications to the design without getting permission first. Tom posted a video about it explaining why he was no longer going to finish the build back when it happened but I can't remember the title because it didn't mention the MPCNC directly (just showed it in the video).
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Aug 11, 2022 12:19
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Now that you've brought it up, I do remember seeing Tom's video back when it came out, that memory was just lost in the ol' mental Rolodex. Thank you for the reminder, I'll leave that one right alone. I'm honestly not even sure I want to bother with a printed machine, having owned an X-Carve up until fairly recently. I may just bite the bullet and buy another whole machine from someone when the time comes.
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Aug 11, 2022 12:39
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I keep thinking I'm going to build a MaslowCNC at some point because I just want to machine wood panel stuff but I also want it to have a vacuum table to hold the sheet stock (and just write my programs to stop short of breaking through and clean parts up after they come off the machine) and I'm still waffling on how much effort I'm going to put into said vacuum table design. I know how to do it because I've done it for work. I just dread the expense of "doing it right" for a 9x10 work table so I can put 4x8 sheets on it with fence stops and vacuum.
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Aug 11, 2022 12:57
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Acid Reflux posted:I've been half-eyeballing the Mostly Printed CNC for a while, but haven't really dug in deep to see how people are actually faring once it's built. Looked into this and am currently working in a different kit re an rscnc32. The issue with mpcnc I came across (other than weird personality issues) was that the machine itself isn't very rigid, and can't really be upgraded down the road to be a better machine. Rscnc32 has been a good experience so far, but gently caress me getting specific lengths of m3-m6 screws in Canada sucks hard. In hindsight I would have looked into something like a root3 or root4
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Aug 11, 2022 15:41
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Been watching a couple of assembly videos of that RS machine, and... yeah, probably not for me. I used to absolutely love projects like that, all the fabricating and everything, but nowadays it's something I'd probably get about 70% done with and then just get tired of working on it. It does look like a neat rig though!
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Aug 11, 2022 17:24
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The parts print really well at least. But there are so many weird issues and oversights (like who wouldn't include printable drill templates? I had to model my own like an animal).
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Aug 11, 2022 17:30
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I would probably buy a milling machine at the top end of benchtop size and then combine that and the 3d printer to build a CNC wood router thing
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Aug 11, 2022 17:52
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w00tmonger posted:Rscnc32 has been a good experience so far, but gently caress me getting specific lengths of m3-m6 screws in Canada sucks hard. In hindsight I would have looked into something like a root3 or root4 Hah, I hear you. Ordering *ordinary" screws from McMaster-Carr can feel like the dumbest thing, but they get me what I need...
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Aug 11, 2022 18:05
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Acid Reflux posted:It is! Mine was 46 days from order to delivery, in the "first batch" according to their web site. If your order date was any earlier than that, you may want to get in touch with their customer service and see if there were any delays or issues. I didn't get any updates at all until the thing presumably cleared customs, and from there it was at the house in just a few more days. Batch 2, 29 July. :V Some guy on Reddit says his order was 11 July and nothing yet, so I'll be surprised if I see any updates by 19 Aug.
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Aug 11, 2022 20:01
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I appreciate the mpcnc posting. I've long considered making the lowrider in particular for relatively simple CNC work, but I've already got way too many projects to wrap up first. I can bide my time and take notes to figure what's the best option when I finally get around to it... In some number of years.
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Aug 11, 2022 20:16
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I really don't envy the production issues around the Prusa XL. Not only do you have to deal with part shortages and all that brings with it (like entire electrical redesigns to work around unavailable parts) but the parts you DO get your hands on, you have to subject to decapping and x-rays to verify they are actually the real deal and not counterfeits because gently caress putting possibly substandard parts into a CNC machine. But I've definitely known (and worked for) places that would just do the worst possible thing: cross their fingers and do whatever it took to start sending units out the door; any technical issues are the tech peoples' job to deal with & fix. They all can go t  t
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Aug 11, 2022 20:30
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Welp, I've gone and done it. I was enticed by the incredibly cheap anycubic photon 2k, then talked myself up to a photon m3 with it's higher resolution and build volume. Added a wash and cure 2.0, and Anycubic are throwing in a few bottles of resin. A question about ventilation - I'll be printing in my unoccupied garage, and will use nitrate gloves and a respirator. Is it enough to just leave the door open whilst it's printing?
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Aug 11, 2022 21:58
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Isometric Bacon posted:Welp, I've gone and done it. I was enticed by the incredibly cheap anycubic photon 2k, then talked myself up to a photon m3 with it's higher resolution and build volume. Added a wash and cure 2.0, and Anycubic are throwing in a few bottles of resin. You'll be fine, If people are gonna be in the space a bunch look at an enclosure and some air filtering. Garage wise, keep temperature fluctuations in mind. Cold resin has a longer cure time and different fluid behavior than warm resin. Expect some failures when winter hits E: Prusaslicer talk. Is there any means to implement variable extrusion width? rocking a 0.6mm nozzle with Arachne on pretty much everything now, but I'm finding the thicker lines can cause some finish issues on top surfaces. Id like to do thick wide lines, then do a much finer pattern on the top surfaces e2: for that matter is this just an issue Ill have to deal with generally for big widths? seems like it wants to leave holes here and there when the geometry doesnt quite math out w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 23:45 on Aug 11, 2022 |
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Aug 11, 2022 22:01
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It’s too bad we’re still a ways from Halloween, because I have produced a Spooky Good Ghost Benchy:     That is transparent PETG and I am happy with the outcome. I applied a bit of last night’s discussion to how I leveled my gantry relative to the frame and slicer settings, so I appreciate the input. The quality of the bridging in the wheel house arches really surprises me. I am used to having that be ‘acceptable’. The stringing is more like threading and you have to expect that with this clear PETG. I also used a calibration model to get my z offset just right. It basically prints a 3x3 first layer and you can tune your z-offset until it’s perfect. I highly recommend that if you’re not groking how to get a good first layer. Nerobro, my current cooling set up is a pretty standard fang with a 4010 blower and a 4020 fan. I do have a poo poo ton of 4020 blowers and 5015 blowers and am going to experiment. My only caveat is that I don’t want to move my CR-Touch, so that limits my choices. Also: how dare you? That is not a spare Arduino. I am totally going to make that back yard weather station before I die.
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Aug 11, 2022 23:24
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Aug 11, 2022 23:57
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Aug 12, 2022 00:22
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I'd like to point out that your steel sheet is absolutely filthy
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Aug 12, 2022 00:36
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Acid Reflux posted:Now that you've brought it up, I do remember seeing Tom's video back when it came out, that memory was just lost in the ol' mental Rolodex. Thank you for the reminder, I'll leave that one right alone. I had forgotten about that. Might this be a situation where just buying a 3018 is the way to go? Marsupial Ape posted:I also used a calibration model to get my z offset just right. It basically prints a 3x3 first layer and you can tune your z-offset until it’s perfect. I highly recommend that if you’re not groking how to get a good first layer. It's never to soon for Halloween posts. Ever. Even November 1. This is my go-to for cooling, maybe something there is right for you? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3182917 I feel like I should post a photo of my electronics drawer... Given the scalper prices for Pi's I might have some money in there. Your extruder appears to have a cold.
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Aug 12, 2022 00:42
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BMan posted:I'd like to point out that your steel sheet is absolutely filthy Look again, literally the only thing on the plate is markings where that glob of PLA was dragged around while printing. Also the satin-textured sheet looks like the non-tracked area when it's clean under that light. The white-ish oval lines are where the bottom half of the pills and their respective brims were located before one of them came loose and the whole mess got swept up into the hotend. This is what happens when you use bargain bin PLA. I don't have this problem with PETG or ASA (& I've used satin surface sheets for all material types). Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 01:00 on Aug 12, 2022 |
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Aug 12, 2022 00:57
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Nerobro posted:I had forgotten about that. Might this be a situation where just buying a 3018 is the way to go? Well, poo poo. Acid Reflux fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Aug 12, 2022 |
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Aug 12, 2022 01:15
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 cheap PLA bed adhesion? 
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Aug 12, 2022 01:33
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Nerobro posted:This is my go-to for cooling, maybe something there is right for you? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3182917 I am currently using the ‘MinionD’ vent shroud, but I’m going to try this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4375296 since I have the 5015 fan.
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Aug 12, 2022 04:55
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Javid posted:
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Aug 12, 2022 07:48
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Thinking about potentially trying to fix one of my broken printers once I have the time and energy (probably near the end of the year). They're Ender 3s with the yellow springs, is swapping to rubber bushings instead of springs viable when using a bltouch? Seems like that would simplify keeping it running even over yellow springs. E: On one hand I hope that BB4U succeeds in his mod challenge on the other hand I find it really funny that he's experiencing all these failures during the challenge for him being condescending about printing.
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Aug 12, 2022 19:14
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Thinking about potentially trying to fix one of my broken printers once I have the time and energy (probably near the end of the year). They're Ender 3s with the yellow springs, is swapping to rubber bushings instead of springs viable when using a bltouch? Seems like that would simplify keeping it running even over yellow springs. I tried bushings, but honestly, the yellow springs were a lot more stable.
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Aug 12, 2022 19:37
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Well I put money down on a Prusa Mini+. Gonna sit on it for a bit since it won't ship out for at least 2 weeks. Hopefully I won't cancel. 
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Aug 12, 2022 21:28
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Tremors posted:I'm pretty sure a chill pill needs to look like a Xanax. Another excuse to fumble through fusion 360. 
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Aug 12, 2022 21:45
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So whilst I eagerly await my Photon and Cure Station to arrive in the mail I figured I'd print some items on my Prusa to assist with setting up what otherwise feels like a meth lab. First of the bat is this vat drainer: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3841061 Second I thought I might need this vat cover to save myself completely cleaning it out between each print: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3353275 Any other recommendations on practical prints for SLA printing?
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Aug 12, 2022 22:59
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Slicing question: I printed this last night, and the lip on the inside where the lensboard is meant to go came out looking like dog doo. I think the supports may not have really connected with it the way they were meant to; when I went to peel it off the build plate the piece/brim came up, leaving the supports for the lip still stuck on the plate. It's also very thready and "loose" looking on the underside. Would I be better off printing it upside down? That was how it originally was, but was worried it'd be hard to get the supports off neatly enough if they were so shallow.
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Aug 13, 2022 11:01
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Slicing question:
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Aug 13, 2022 11:26
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Extremely shallow supports usually just weld themselves onto the bottom of whatever they're supporting, yeah. If that were my project I'd see if I could split it along this plane:  Add some 1.75mm holes for filament pin alignment (or don't, that will be easy to align by hand), superglue the two pieces, don't mess with supports on an overhang like that at all (which will never look GREAT but might be clean enough to go inside of a camera or whatever) this is how I handle anything that is going to suck to print in 100% of possible orientations otherwise.
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Aug 13, 2022 12:05
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Got my shroud/vent done. Settled on a remix of a remix of the Setsuna. Printed beautifully will only basic post processing.    Speaking of supports, is there any inside baseball on Cura tree supports?
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Aug 13, 2022 12:40
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Slicing question: Just print it upside down and if the support material gets stuck, remove it with a scotty peeler or equivalent tool (you DO have one, right?)
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Aug 13, 2022 18:17
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edit: for anyone looking for a deal on secondhand 3D printer, try eBay. I was hoping to find a cheap Ender 5/CR-10 or something, but they're all marked "local pickup only" (with very little interest) since the sellers are unwilling to ship. I remember my dad scored some great tyres for my mum's Accord back in the day using the same trick. RabbitWizard posted:What's your support material Z-Offset? I mostly use 0.15mm. Also 60% XY separation and 2 Interface layers with a 0.2mm spacing (Works with 0.4-0.6 nozzle, PLA&PET for me). Turning it upside down would help I guess, but also try more interface layers if you haven't. I've never touched the support settings in Cura (other than "on/off"), but I'm wondering if printing at .12mm layer height has changed them. I got some similar jank on the little knobs/shafts I had to print with supports last night as well. I will give those settings a go! Javid posted:Extremely shallow supports usually just weld themselves onto the bottom of whatever they're supporting, yeah. I could not figure out how to do that in Fusion 360 for love or money, but trusty Windows 3D Builder has no problems (just did trial and error with the Z-value until I got it to the right height). My initial forays into 3D modelling were in 3D Builder, you can do a fair bit with it if you don't mind the challenge of having to trick it into doing what you want it to do. I think I will probably give it one more go with RabbitWizard's suggestions just to try and see if I can get the final product to look neater (it's the front of the camera so I'm gonna have to look at it a lot), but otherwise will try the two pieces. BMan posted:Just print it upside down and if the support material gets stuck, remove it with a scotty peeler or equivalent tool (you DO have one, right?) I do, but I have a feeling after I do that I'm going to wind up with the end result looking like the current one, all chewed up and wavy in a few places. This is definitely a part I'd be making out of wood if I had a router/the know-how. Someday... Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 22:19 on Aug 13, 2022 |
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Aug 13, 2022 22:15
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