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Happiness Commando posted:I've got some surplus equipment that I want to wire up with an IEC C14 receptacle. This box is about 4"x2". The C14 receptacle is easy enough to find on Amazon, but what plate do I need to a) match up with the old work box-like box and b) accept the side screw mount on the C14 receptacle? You don't do this because it's not an approved structured wiring method. Those receptacles are meant to be mounted on equipment, not part of fixed wiring. What you are looking for is <your country> receptacle and the correct plate for it along with a cable from that outlet to a C14. If you have a lot of equipment like this there are "power strips" that you can use (they are going to be referred to as "PDUs" or power distribution units). They also plug into the wall with a standard and accepted structured wiring type connector and are individually fused and protected. Motronic fucked around with this message at 00:09 on Aug 16, 2022 |
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Aug 16, 2022 00:07
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That receptacle is going to be mounted on equipment, though. That's the point. I want to power the equipment. Is there a formal definition of fixed wiring that I'm not getting? It's manufactured in upstate New York and I'm trying to connect it to residential power in the Southwest US. This is a one off project and I don't expect to do this again anytime soon. What's the correct receptacle to use for 120V AC that doesn't require an m-m killer cable? So the right way to do it is replace the box? I'm having a hard time parsing your middle paragraph. Which is why I posted here. Happiness Commando fucked around with this message at 00:18 on Aug 16, 2022 |
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Aug 16, 2022 00:15
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Happiness Commando posted:That receptacle is going to be mounted on equipment, though. That's the point. I want to power the equipment. Is there a formal definition of fixed wiring that I'm not getting? You post isn't clear. A C15 is what should be on the equipment that needs to be powered side. A C14 should be on the other side of a cord, the same cord you get with every new desktop computer for the last 20 years, with a standard US plug that fits into a standard 3 prong US 15 amp receptacle. Which means you go to the hardware store and get a single or double receptacle to put in that box and the appropriate plate to put over it. For some reason it sounds like you think your equipment has something to do with the building/fixed wiring. It absolutely should not. And I really don't think you should be doing this type of electrical work unless I'm really missing something about your level of misunderstanding here. It's just not safe. E: Wait - is the box on the equipment to be powered and not part of your home/office? If so, there are going to be a bunch more questions, like how many amps this draws and where it's fused. Motronic fucked around with this message at 00:30 on Aug 16, 2022 |
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Aug 16, 2022 00:24
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Motronic posted:You post isn't clear. A C15 is what should be on the equipment that needs to be powered side. A C14 should be on the other side of a cord, the same cord you get with every new desktop computer for the last 20 years, with a standard US plug that fits into a standard 3 prong US 15 amp receptacle. Which means you go to the hardware store and get a single or double receptacle to put in that box and the appropriate plate to put over it. That's... not true? The C13/C14 combo are what's used for computers and etc. I've wired up plenty of datacenter racks and I dont know that I've ever encountered a C15/16, or if I have, I memory holed it pretty quickly as a "huh, thats weird". This has nothing to do with fixed wiring, and I'm not sure how you're getting that from my post. This is a thing I want to plug in that I bought off ebay, and I want to do a nice fit/finish job of fixing up the box in the back so I can take one of the zillion C13/NEMA 5 cables I have and powering it on. I literally only want to know what combo of C14 inlet / single gang faceplate I can get that will work, since all the C14 inlets I can find are panel mount, and I've not found a faceplate that will fit panel mounts Thanks for trying?  Edit: yes. I took a picture of the equipment. It draws ~2 amps. I was trusting my breaker box to handle the fuse requirement. Happiness Commando fucked around with this message at 00:49 on Aug 16, 2022 |
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Aug 16, 2022 00:37
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Motronic posted:E: Wait - is the box on the equipment to be powered and not part of your home/office? If so, there are going to be a bunch more questions, like how many amps this draws and where it's fused. Yeah - Does this box provide power or want power input? This might be a simple C13/14/15 confusion. If it's providing power it cannot have exposed "male" pins - it must be a "receptacle". If it requires power it will have exposed pins and be a "Plug."
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Aug 16, 2022 00:39
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Happiness Commando posted:I literally only want to know what combo of C14 inlet / single gang faceplate I can get that will work This is what wasn't clear. Your box is an inlet. See my above edit from before your post. There is nothing available. You buy a blank plate and cut or punch a panel mount. I again wouldn't suggest this, and an actual suggestion would depend on amp draw.
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Aug 16, 2022 00:41
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The box wants power. I want to do something to the box so that I can plug a 5-15P to C13 cable into it and the wall and provide power to the equipment that has the box attached to it.
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Aug 16, 2022 00:42
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Motronic posted:There is nothing available. You buy a blank plate and cut or punch a panel mount. I again wouldn't suggest this, and an actual suggestion would depend on amp draw. Got it. Thanks. Power draw is on the order of 2 amps Happiness Commando fucked around with this message at 00:49 on Aug 16, 2022 |
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Aug 16, 2022 00:42
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Chillyrabbit posted:Resolved my downspout post I posted a month ago. Forgive me if "forgot to buy the terminating downspout" meant you were about to do what I'm about to suggest. But I would recommend getting more downspout material to run the water outflow 4+ft away from your post in the ground. My thinking being even if you concreted that post in, dumping all the water right at the post will eventually dig out that ground and your post will tilt and start pulling on the gutter/house which you don't want.
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Aug 16, 2022 23:11
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I ordered a new shower curtain, and discovered a) that it's not doing a great job of staying inside the shower area on its own, but b) it has some magnets embedded in the curtain. So clearly the idea is that I have corresponding magnets permanently installed on the shower that the curtain magnets adhere to when in use. I have plenty of magnets; the question is how I should attach them to the tile. Any suggestions? At this stage I'd prefer something that doesn't permanently alter the tile, in case I decide to change things again. If the answer is "just order some shower magnets", that's fine, it'd just be nice to be able to use some of the magnets I've had hanging around the home for the past 15-odd years, waiting to be useful 
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Aug 16, 2022 23:19
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I ordered a new shower curtain, and discovered a) that it's not doing a great job of staying inside the shower area on its own, but b) it has some magnets embedded in the curtain. So clearly the idea is that I have corresponding magnets permanently installed on the shower that the curtain magnets adhere to when in use. I have plenty of magnets; the question is how I should attach them to the tile. Any suggestions? At this stage I'd prefer something that doesn't permanently alter the tile, in case I decide to change things again. All The tubs that I’ve had are magnetic and the curtain sticks on its own. Having to accurately stick the curtain to the specific magnets is going to be annoying as gently caress. You might be better off with adding weight.
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Aug 16, 2022 23:49
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This aint fix it fast but I stupidly forgot this entire sub forum existed, hoping a smart home building goon can comment on this situation. We had our house re-sided and the job went badly wrong. This was a full tear off, not going over the existing or anything. Also the building is from the early 70's, so no existing house wrap of any kind. Anyway, early in the installation a few things didn't seem to be going right, got it discussed, supposedly addressed. Later found out, no, not addressed. And hey not only that, lets go back through the random progress photos I took, in detail. What's that? tons of stuff stands out as being done wrong? They've totally hosed up the water barrier, effectively not even sealing windows at all? Fun! So, yeah, I've got a laundry list of problems with this job. Contractor has managed to dodge answering most of the points we have presented them with so far. We have a meeting here tomorrow morning, with the building inspector and the contractor to review. I've compiled a whole presentation of the issues, and I'm citing instructions they were supposed to be following wherever I can. But I'm no siding specialist. The building inspector, from brief emails, sides with me already - but I want ammo. Here's the fix it fast part/question: Soffit installation under eaves, essentially new construction since this was full tear off. The rib or strut that gets attached to the house sheathing to receive the soffit panels, should be placed AFTER the water drainage plane, correct? Such that any water that wicks behind it will end up in front of the drainage plane, and disperse? It sure seems like it should be done that way to me, but I've got nothing to cite that says that. On our house, on the gable ends they put the soffit mounting strips on top of the drainage material, but under the eaves on the long walls they just ran the drainage barrier up to it. Obviously I'll be bringing this up tomorrow with the inspector present but, like I said, I want ammo of my own. Greatly appreciate any response on this.
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Aug 17, 2022 00:10
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I need to replace some bi-fold doors with new ones. The opening has trim on the frame that's about 3/4" so I'm not sure doors would even work properly. I do have some 1x4 flat stock baseboards that seems like it would fit ok to frame it out without having to tear those other trim boards out. Will the doors fit and work ok with that trim there or do I need to do something to account for it? I suppose I could move the track in a little bit? I'm kind of concerned about having to cut the panels since either way the standard 48" is too wide and I don't want to gently caress it up. I was also thinking maybe I could just use sliders instead? I think I might need to cut some off the top with that one too but the instructions say 80" should be ok so I might not.
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Aug 17, 2022 00:12
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Raised by Hamsters posted:This aint fix it fast but I stupidly forgot this entire sub forum existed, hoping a smart home building goon can comment on this situation. You need a lawyer not a forums answer. You lawyer will tell you to stop posting about this clearly pending litigation.
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Aug 17, 2022 00:15
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:All The tubs that I’ve had are magnetic and the curtain sticks on its own. I have a shower stall, not a bathtub. I guess I should have clarified that. And the stall has like a 3" lip, which is only overlapping the curtain by an inch or so. The old curtain I had was heavier and hung better, and I think was also slightly longer. The new one is pretty thin and doesn't stay put. I got the new one because it's transparent, so it can dry out without impacting the amount of light in the bathroom; with the old one my choices were either to have no natural light or to get mold and mildew. Anyway, I don't expect that adding weight would work unless I also added length somehow, and I don't have a sewing machine, nor appropriate material to use for an extension. I think I'm OK, conceptually, with having to manually stick the curtain to the magnets each time I take a shower. I guess I can do a trial by just using painter's tape; it won't last forever, but it should at least test whether the magnets would work at all. EDIT: thought to myself "I bet shower curtain extenders already exist, I should check" and the internet informed me of the existence of longer shower curtain hooks  So I have some of those coming in.
TooMuchAbstraction fucked around with this message at 01:35 on Aug 17, 2022 |
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Aug 17, 2022 00:23
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Raised by Hamsters posted:Contractor has managed to dodge answering most of the points we have presented them with so far. We have a meeting here tomorrow morning, with the building inspector and the contractor to review. I've compiled a whole presentation of the issues, and I'm citing instructions they were supposed to be following wherever I can. But I'm no siding specialist. The building inspector, from brief emails, sides with me already - but I want ammo. The building inspector can point out things that they think are wrong, but... they can't make the contractor do anything (in the jurisdictions I'm familiar with). If everyone wants to maintain a good relationship some kind of mutual agreement for rework can be established, but if the relationship doesn't exist anymore you're talking about getting a lawyer involved. No one can offer a good opinion on your soffit question. Photos, climate, building code, and manufacturer's install instructions would be the minimum to start forming an opinion.
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Aug 17, 2022 00:51
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You have a copy of their insurance and information on their bond right? Hopefully your state lets you recover reasonable fees from insurance - should make it easier to get going with a smaller retainer if it's as bad as you mentioned. Before your lawyer tells you to clam up and not post about pending litigation on the internet... Can we see some of the egregious pictures?  Also remember, you are only "owed" what is written in the contract you signed, as amended by change orders, and the manufacturer instructions. Read carefully.
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Aug 17, 2022 01:01
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Goons posted:
This is already lined up in case it comes to that. Thanks for the info though. Whenever this gets resolved I'll be feeding a cautionary tale into crappy construction.
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Aug 17, 2022 01:14
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We have three kitchen windows that face west and they collect a LOT of heat. Even with blinds, they radiate tons of heat into the kitchen. Anyway, I just bought some window screen for the screen door and while I was there, picked up sun reducing screen as well. Only to then realize our storm windows are three-track style meaning only half the window will be covered. Seems kinda pointless to use it now, but maybe it will help? My other idea was to tape some white poster board to the inside of the storm windows, problem there is finding poster board big enough.
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Aug 17, 2022 01:59
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Teabag Dome Scandal posted:I need to replace some bi-fold doors with new ones. The opening has trim on the frame that's about 3/4" so I'm not sure doors would even work properly. I... That strip standing proud on the interior of the opening is a stop, and it is nailed to the opening. You can take a flat bar/crowbar & a hammer & pry it off. I would first run a boxcutter or similar blade along the joint between the stop & the opening so the paint doesn't tear when you pry it off; you should still sand it down & paint it before you install your bifold doors.
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Aug 17, 2022 02:46
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Bifold doors should work just fine with that doorstop in place. The top piece will hide the track, and the doors can be placed surprisingly close to the 'back' side of the stop without affecting their operation.
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Aug 17, 2022 03:15
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H110Hawk posted:You can do whatever. The brackets will make it easy for you to install keystones. Which is what you want to do right? Thanks! I think I'll put a bracket to replace the drywall hole at least. Follow-up question, though -- what's the easiest way to clean up drywall dust from small jobs like these? I thought "shop vac" was the answer, but from what I've read/heard drywall dust is too fine and just goes right out the exhaust of shop vacs. I don't really need one of those fancy shop dust removal rigs, but I don't wanna inhale drywall dust either. I guess if I just put down something below the cut to catch the dust and throw that away that'll take care of 90% of it, and I can wipe up the rest?
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Aug 17, 2022 07:45
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 Not sure if cooking mishaps go to this thread. As you can see, I tried to make some jam, and ended up burning a 1/2 cm coating of sugar tar on the bottom of my pot. I tried to soak it in water and washing liquid, and finally chiselled some of it away (visible in the pic). Lots of work though.. Is there a simpler way, without resorting to some piranha solution? Pot is stainless steel.
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Aug 17, 2022 10:14
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Try deglazing it? Water or a water and vinegar mix, and heat it up before scraping.
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Aug 17, 2022 10:58
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Deglazing is my immediate first thought. Add some water and heat it up and scrape with a wooden spatula or something. I would guess vinegar would work? But personally if deglazing doesn't work my next step is usually Barkeeper's Friend, a scrub pad, and elbow grease. If it's just plain stainless, and not coated or anything, then that shouldn't damage it.
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Aug 17, 2022 12:34
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Letmebefrank posted:
with a wire brush and a power drill it'll come off really fast n easy
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Aug 17, 2022 12:46
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floWenoL posted:Thanks! I think I'll put a bracket to replace the drywall hole at least. Follow-up question, though -- what's the easiest way to clean up drywall dust from small jobs like these? I thought "shop vac" was the answer, but from what I've read/heard drywall dust is too fine and just goes right out the exhaust of shop vacs. I don't really need one of those fancy shop dust removal rigs, but I don't wanna inhale drywall dust either. They make drywall filters and bags for some shop vacs. A little expensive for a tiny job, maybe
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Aug 17, 2022 13:36
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I know Ridgid makes different levels of bags and filters for their vacs, up to and including HEPA. I believe the next level down from HEPA is advertised as being able to handle drywall dust. Shop vacs are generally a good investment for any homeowner, but especially if you're going to be doing stuff like drywall work (even just cutting/patching). But the next time you need to drain a clogged washer or something, you'll be glad you have it.
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Aug 17, 2022 13:58
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DaveSauce posted:Deglazing is my immediate first thought. Add some water and heat it up and scrape with a wooden spatula or something. Seconding barkeepers friend, that's rescued a couple scorched pots for me.
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Aug 17, 2022 15:04
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Letmebefrank posted:
I agree with attempting a deglaze.
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Aug 17, 2022 17:24
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Letmebefrank posted:
Boil some water and vinegar in there for like 10 minutes, let it sit overnight, then put it in your dishwasher. Make sure it will not all evaporate. Hit it with a wooden spoon or metal spatula or something while it's boiling. I bet this gets you to having like 1% of the crud left to deal with. It's how I deal with scorched on crap.
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Aug 17, 2022 18:07
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My lovely parents have a samsung clothes washer wa45m7050aw/a4 that seems to be stuck in a cycle and is FULL of water. There is a manual drain on the bottom front but before I deal with unloading buckets and buckets of water manually, is there some way to trick it into doing the normal drain cycle? Afaik the pump still works... edit: actually j/k there is no obvious manual drain door on the machine (google mislead me). other people fucked around with this message at 00:07 on Aug 18, 2022 |
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Aug 18, 2022 00:00
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Associate Christ
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other people posted:My lovely parents have a samsung clothes washer wa45m7050aw/a4 that seems to be stuck in a cycle and is FULL of water. There is a manual drain on the bottom front but before I deal with unloading buckets and buckets of water manually, is there some way to trick it into doing the normal drain cycle? Afaik the pump still works... That's a top loader, right? Does it actually power on and do things if you move the cycle selector? You should be able to set it to "spin" and have it spin+empty the tub. (unplug it from the wall for at least 10-20 minutes and try again if this does not work - just make sure this isn't a low voltage corrupted memory freakout) If that doesn't work I'd be heading to the hardware store to buy a small electric pump to empty the thing as far as possible in the tub before getting into opening up the pump feed/using buckets.
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Aug 18, 2022 00:10
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other people posted:My lovely parents have a samsung clothes washer wa45m7050aw/a4 that seems to be stuck in a cycle and is FULL of water. There is a manual drain on the bottom front but before I deal with unloading buckets and buckets of water manually, is there some way to trick it into doing the normal drain cycle? Afaik the pump still works... That's the same washer at our new house, I've only used it once so far. Is it possible to put it on just the Spin Cycle on the bottom right? Or do you mean it won't change at all even with a hard reboot?
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Aug 18, 2022 00:21
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Sorry, the machine was saying 'Ur' or something like that. Spinning the control dial wasn't registering any change. I have it unplugged now and will try it again in a few minutes.
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Aug 18, 2022 00:37
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tangy yet delightful posted:Forgive me if "forgot to buy the terminating downspout" meant you were about to do what I'm about to suggest. But I would recommend getting more downspout material to run the water outflow 4+ft away from your post in the ground. My thinking being even if you concreted that post in, dumping all the water right at the post will eventually dig out that ground and your post will tilt and start pulling on the gutter/house which you don't want. and yes I forgot to buy the elbow at the bottom to make it flow outward, I had a downspout extension but I couldn't fit it on the end of the straight since it was butted up against the post. But here my finished downspout in all it's glory, I might consider trying to be fancy and building an underground popup drain but that's a project for another time. 
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Aug 18, 2022 01:11
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other people posted:Sorry, the machine was saying 'Ur' or something like that. Spinning the control dial wasn't registering any change. I have it unplugged now and will try it again in a few minutes. After waiting a while and plugging it back in, I started a cycle and the first thing it did was drain the tub . We'll see what happens the next time they try to actually use it.
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Aug 18, 2022 02:18
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After this thread: I am not looking forward to having to buy a new dryer (1998 Kenmore) or dishwasher (1984 Kitchenaid). Hopefully I can keep throwing parts at the dryer until the heat death of the universe. I disassemble & vacuum it out every couple of years. Kitchenaid has passed the Point of No Return on parts. There may be some sheetmetal screws or something available, but that's it. The motor bearings are starting to go, but they haven't been singing much in the past six months
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Aug 18, 2022 02:23
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other people posted:Sorry, the machine was saying 'Ur' or something like that. Spinning the control dial wasn't registering any change. I have it unplugged now and will try it again in a few minutes. That code means the load was unbalanced. It would happen with bedding if everything jammed to one side with my washer. I’d have to reposition everything and hit “start” again and pray it was balanced that time.
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Aug 18, 2022 02:33
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So two of the outside doors at our house have deadbolts that only lock from the inside.  I don't have any wood working tools at all and even if I get some, is replacing the deadbolts with ones we can lock from the inside worth it, or should we just look at new doors? There's a third door from that kitchen that does have a regular deadbolt but of course none of the keys work on it so it'll need replacing as well.
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Aug 18, 2022 19:34
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