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The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums

queeb posted:

i gotta say, 3d printing fuckin owns. i printed and painted this poo poo over the last week and im in love. my printers are running like 20 hours a day right now lol



That looks baller! Beautiful work!

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Opinionated
May 29, 2002



queeb posted:

i gotta say, 3d printing fuckin owns. i printed and painted this poo poo over the last week and im in love. my printers are running like 20 hours a day right now lol



Looks really great, nice job! Makes me want to learn how to paint

Acid Reflux posted:

If you're not on their mailing list, IIID Max is having a 10% off sale again. USA-only as far as I know, but 10 rolls of their PLA+ comes out to $107.91 with free shipping. Between them and GST3D (who I still think might be the same company), I've got like 50 rolls of filament in reserve now because I can't resist buying it at that price. It's not the best filament on the planet, but their QC has gotten much better over the last couple of years and I print an absolute fuckton of it.

https://llldmax.com/product/10kg-premium-pla-filament-free-shipping/
Discount code is "MOVE2MAX"

Thanks for pointing this out, I had to grab some too! I've been wanting to try and mess with color lithophanes and they have blue, yellow and red so I think that should work

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:
GST was just OOS on everything last time I checked. Did they fold or did I just roll a 1 on choosing the day and time to check? Not that I'm anywhere near through my last 10 kg.

Paradoxish
Dec 19, 2003

Will you stop going crazy in there?

Isometric Bacon posted:

My best guess is that the environment of my garage is just too cold at the moment ( about 10 degrees Celsius) , which is unfortunate since theres no way in hell I'm putting this stuff in my house.

Gonna try draining the vat tonight. Hopefully nothing is stuck on the fep and I can clean it up easy enough, and I'll try printing during a warmer day.

You may want to look at thermal enclosures for FDM printers. They're relatively low cost and might help keep the machine from getting too cold, especially if you keep the resin warm between uses. Some of them also include ducts for fume extraction, if that would make you more comfortable with keeping the printer in a conditioned space.

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

Javid posted:

GST was just OOS on everything last time I checked. Did they fold or did I just roll a 1 on choosing the day and time to check? Not that I'm anywhere near through my last 10 kg.

As of very recently, apparently, GST is now selling/distributing through: https://fremover.net

I got an email from Fremover the other day advertising GST's filament, and I wasn't quite sure what to think of it, but then yesterday one came in from GST telling me to shop at Fremover so I guess that's their new thing.

Aaronicon
Oct 2, 2010

A BLOO BLOO ANYONE I DISAGREE WITH IS A "BAD PERSON" WHO DESERVES TO DIE PLEEEASE DONT FALL ALL OVER YOURSELF WHITEWASHING THEM A BLOO BLOO

Paradoxish posted:

You may want to look at thermal enclosures for FDM printers. They're relatively low cost and might help keep the machine from getting too cold, especially if you keep the resin warm between uses. Some of them also include ducts for fume extraction, if that would make you more comfortable with keeping the printer in a conditioned space.

Yeah I'm gearing up towards buying a resin printer and would prefer to keep my printer in my cold-rear end garage as well. My plan is to use a smallish weed grow tent and one of those 'seedling tray warmers' to keep things in the right range for winter prints. The fact that grow tents also come setup for fans and ventilation is a bonus too.

Dunno where I grabbed it from, but this article is a good overview about to how solve this exact problem.

Isometric Bacon
Jul 24, 2004

Let's get naked!
Interesting. Thanks all! I'll definitely do some research. A enclosure sounds great - especially if I can share it with my FDM printer. Is there a problem with enclosures and fumes?

This evening I took the vat apart and cleaned it all out, being super strict on my PPE. That wasn't a fun exercise... I hope not to do that again anytime soon.(hah)

The FEP had quite a bit of cured resin from the failed print stuck to it. Managed to get it out with some gentle persuasion, but there's a minor dent on it now.

Using a bit of PTFE lubricant on the FEP- hopefully that makes it easier to come off next time.

Tonight I'm printing once again, but this time I'm using a different USB, I soaked the resin bottle in boiling water for a while, shook it up a ton till it was very viscous, then ran a heatgun over it in the vat for good measure. I'm hoping the heat from the curing will keep it somewhat together in the meantime. The ambient temp here in my garage is about 13 celsius. Fingers crossed for a better result in the morning.

bird food bathtub
Aug 9, 2003

College Slice
I'm still not convinced FEP lube does anything. Is there anything solid about that? Seems like it would peel off in the first layer or two during burn-in and be useless.

Vaporware
May 22, 2004

Still not here yet.

Vaporware posted:


Any ideas on this weird nozzle impression at the last corner?
it was PrusaSlicer Extruder options - "wipe after retraction"

https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/postid/172832/

It's better, there is no crater anymore, but now I have a peak where the nozzle pulls off. I'm going to put it back to 35mm/s retraction

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

A quote I keep handy from a friend whose job is manufacturing resin:

"Never put anything in a vat that isn't resin. There is no reason to use any kind of foreign substance on your FEP. If parts are sticking to it, your printer is leveled incorrectly and/or your exposure settings are wrong."

Dr. Fishopolis
Aug 31, 2004

ROBOT

Vaporware posted:

it was PrusaSlicer Extruder options - "wipe after retraction"

agh, I was so close! glad you found it lmao

Vaporware
May 22, 2004

Still not here yet.
Thanks, I'm not convinced it isn't something broken/added in the new version , but I'm still going to tune my retraction a bit more. It's gotten a lot better changing a few things like setting retraction to 50mm/s and reducing the retract length to 0.4.

I'm almost back to where I was with a 0.4 nozzle in terms of quality, but now I'm printing at least 20% faster.

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



Opinionated posted:

Looks really great, nice job! Makes me want to learn how to paint


thanks! thats the first thing ive ever painted, so you can do it! I just watched a ton of youtube tutorials and started throwing paint at it, and hey, results came out well!

RabbitWizard
Oct 21, 2008

Muldoon

queeb posted:

thanks! thats the first thing ive ever painted, so you can do it! I just watched a ton of youtube tutorials and started throwing paint at it, and hey, results came out well!
No way :stare: I thought this was a render at first. Really amazing.



I made something simple recently but it came out better than expected. I bought these cheap USB-powered LED lamps from Aliexpress for 2 bucks a piece and made a socket for them.



Always wanted to see how wood filament would look lit up and I got a new spool.



Printed fine so I made it bigger, using nearly the full height of my printer @495mm. Cut a hole in the bottom and walla:



Guess I'll play around with other vases or objects that work nicely in vase-mode (even when scaled up).


Edit: I feel like the previous picture doesn't convey the size of that thing.

RabbitWizard fucked around with this message at 01:41 on Aug 19, 2022

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



Anyone who has your printer venting to outside, does that cause any problems with maintaining a good temperature chamber for hotter filaments in the winter? I'm wondering if I'll have to put a ceramic heat element in it or something for winter.

Opinionated
May 29, 2002



queeb posted:

thanks! thats the first thing ive ever painted, so you can do it! I just watched a ton of youtube tutorials and started throwing paint at it, and hey, results came out well!

Wow that's sweet, impressive!

RabbitWizard posted:



Guess I'll play around with other vases or objects that work nicely in vase-mode (even when scaled up).

:hmmyes: Looks good

Bondematt
Jan 26, 2007

Not too stupid
Well I've got a weird one.

Getting bumps on a curve line right where the slicer's straight lines end. Not sure what's causing this or how to reduce it, the slicer file looks fine so I'm at a complete loss. I got this on a few different prints on internal curves only, external curves are still fine.

Printing 0.4mm height on a 0.4mm nozzle. Using Fluidd Klipper on a Pi 2. Slicer is Prusaslicer on Arachne







Edit: Gonna try updating Klipper to current and see if that helps.

Bondematt fucked around with this message at 03:50 on Aug 19, 2022

Marsupial Ape
Dec 15, 2020
the mod team violated the sancity of my avatar
The Ender 3 v2’s motherboard enclosure is absolute bullshit. I’ve been looking at some alternatives.
ThisJumps out at me, immediately. I like that it is detached and functions like a PC case.

This one is more mundane but is much better designed, almost as if humans were supposed to work with it.

Thoughts and opinions are appreciated.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Lightning infill is wild, wild, dark magic



This will be, hopefully if this old PLA doesn't break again, a 1/3 scale Mac SE/30 powered by a RISC-V printed using a 1.0 nozzle

https://www.instructables.com/Making-a-Tiny-Mac-From-a-Raspberry-Pi-Zero/

Edit: ran out of white, so it's getting a racing stripe:

Hadlock fucked around with this message at 08:54 on Aug 19, 2022

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

That's not the right boot screen for system 7. FAAAAAKE!

Bondematt
Jan 26, 2007

Not too stupid

Bondematt posted:

Edit: Gonna try updating Klipper to current and see if that helps.

Updated klipper and resliced with no dice. Gonna try slicing without arachne in the morning and see if its a slicer thing.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

Rexxed posted:

That's not the right boot screen for system 7. FAAAAAKE!

I think a SE/30 could run 7.5.3... so.. maybe?

RabbitWizard
Oct 21, 2008

Muldoon

Marsupial Ape posted:

The Ender 3 v2’s motherboard enclosure is absolute bullshit. I’ve been looking at some alternatives.
ThisJumps out at me, immediately. I like that it is detached and functions like a PC case.

This one is more mundane but is much better designed, almost as if humans were supposed to work with it.

Thoughts and opinions are appreciated.

If you consider putting the printer in an enclosure in the future, I'd go with the first one. With a normal Ender3 some of the cables have to be extended to get enough distance, watch out for that before you start rebuilding.
If not I don't see any reason why I would detach the electronics from the printer.


Hadlock posted:

Lightning infill is wild, wild, dark magic


I'd love to hear more about this. I'm concerned about the short, single width parts. I often have little gaps or slight bends in infill with that characteristics. Sure, I could print it slower, but would it save me time then? Also, how (lovely) does it look if the perimeter is translucent?

Vaporware
May 22, 2004

Still not here yet.

Bondematt posted:

Well I've got a weird one.

Getting bumps on a curve line right where the slicer's straight lines end. Not sure what's causing this or how to reduce it, the slicer file looks fine so I'm at a complete loss. I got this on a few different prints on internal curves only, external curves are still fine.

Printing 0.4mm height on a 0.4mm nozzle. Using Fluidd Klipper on a Pi 2. Slicer is Prusaslicer on Arachne







Edit: Gonna try updating Klipper to current and see if that helps.

If you reprint elsewhere on the buildplate does it happen in the same spot? That will isolate model vs printer.

Do the bumps line up with any infill geometry?

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Bondematt posted:

Well I've got a weird one.

Getting bumps on a curve line right where the slicer's straight lines end. Not sure what's causing this or how to reduce it, the slicer file looks fine so I'm at a complete loss. I got this on a few different prints on internal curves only, external curves are still fine.

Printing 0.4mm height on a 0.4mm nozzle. Using Fluidd Klipper on a Pi 2. Slicer is Prusaslicer on Arachne







Edit: Gonna try updating Klipper to current and see if that helps.

The rule of thumb for maximum layer height is 3/4 your nozzle diameter - see if it persists at 0.3 or 0.25mm layer heights.

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

Nerobro posted:

I think a SE/30 could run 7.5.3... so.. maybe?

Might be, I haven't really used a mac since the family IIci. A friend of mine had the SE/30 but he got a Quadra with the AV chip later. I have a 68040 powerbook with the dual passive screen somewhere, though we got rid of the IIci a long time ago.

Isometric Bacon
Jul 24, 2004

Let's get naked!

RabbitWizard posted:

I'd love to hear more about this. I'm concerned about the short, single width parts. I often have little gaps or slight bends in infill with that characteristics. Sure, I could print it slower, but would it save me time then? Also, how (lovely) does it look if the perimeter is translucent?

I've printed a few pieces with lightning infill thus far and I've had excellent results. I've typically increased the perimeters for extra strength, which I tend to do anyway as they are things I've been painting with my kids.

Isometric Bacon
Jul 24, 2004

Let's get naked!

Acid Reflux posted:

A quote I keep handy from a friend whose job is manufacturing resin:

"Never put anything in a vat that isn't resin. There is no reason to use any kind of foreign substance on your FEP. If parts are sticking to it, your printer is leveled incorrectly and/or your exposure settings are wrong."

I did wonder this myself. I assumed anything would probably get consumed by the resin.

My adventure with the Photon M3 continues. With the last overnight print when I heated up the resin I had significant better results. The Anycubic test print was almost perfect, sans a couple of broken lines.



Emboldened by the almost success, I grabbed a random mini and printed that during the day. Of it's 3 parts, 2 seemed to print and the other just... Never printed. I'm guessing it failed when it got to the support stage.

But I'm pretty amazed at the results for something that's about 2x3cm in size!



Going to try and print a bigger Slimer over night tonight to take advantage of this transparent green resin. This time I'm both increasing exposure by a second and the bottom layer exposure by about 30%.

Dr. Fishopolis
Aug 31, 2004

ROBOT

Marsupial Ape posted:

The Ender 3 v2’s motherboard enclosure is absolute bullshit. I’ve been looking at some alternatives.

It is a crappy design but at least they stopped mounting the fan on top so that bits of plastic would fall directly into it :D

You really don't need to mess with it that often though, I dunno if I'd bother printing a whole other enclosure unless you're planning on a heated chamber.

RabbitWizard posted:

I'd love to hear more about this. I'm concerned about the short, single width parts. I often have little gaps or slight bends in infill with that characteristics. Sure, I could print it slower, but would it save me time then? Also, how (lovely) does it look if the perimeter is translucent?

Well the arachne engine in the new slicer also takes care of those little gaps and weird spots where the extrusion width is too small, so it works out. With translucent prints it looks... well, translucent. It's a sparse, weird, asymmetrical pattern but it still works fine to hold up the top layers. Probably not the perfect aesthetic choice for a lot of things but it's an interesting option.

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004


You're off to a pretty good start! Judging by the very familiar color, I'm guessing that's the Anycubic Translucent Green you've got there... that stuff is basically liquid garbage. Bin juice. The bar mat shot of resins.

At your earliest convenience, pick up a bottle of literally any other kind of resin. Expect some failures with that too while you dial in exposure, but then revel in the glory of just how much easier better material is to deal with. Even other bad resin is still better than that UV NyQuil.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

RabbitWizard posted:

I'd love to hear more about this. I'm concerned about the short, single width parts. I often have little gaps or slight bends in infill with that characteristics. Sure, I could print it slower, but would it save me time then? Also, how (lovely) does it look if the perimeter is translucent?

You can spin up an STL for yourself with lightning infill. It basically prints the whole thing hollow, the amount of infill is alarmingly small but only serves to provide a support to lay more filament on top of

Both the flat white inside bottom, and this red part make heavy use of lightning. Kind of looks like 3x3" is about the largest I'd want to go without impacting print quality for taller hollow voids

Of particular note, this is really old (1 year), super wet filament so not indicative of new dry pla



An interesting result of this is what should have been 2.5mm walls have become two separate, flat one filament thick walls with nothing connecting them. Seems like you could probably print Cubic infill at 1 or 2% and get similar results to lightning

Lightning is nice for filling huge voids though, just not perfectly square boxes where you're dependent on infill for rigidity

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


Has anyone in thread considered or swapped a mk3s to a 0.6mm nozzle? I'm wondering if arachne slicing would give me good detail with more speed.

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

Finally finished this badass Deadpool helmet

https://imgur.com/gallery/DNPsd5z

Completely 3d printed, no painting required. The texture is built into the design which is pretty awesome.

Tremors
Aug 16, 2006

What happened to the legendary Chris Redfield, huh? What happened to you?!
*hooooonk*

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums

mattfl posted:

Finally finished this badass Deadpool helmet

https://imgur.com/gallery/DNPsd5z

Completely 3d printed, no painting required. The texture is built into the design which is pretty awesome.

:drat:

That looks fan-loving-tastic

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

mattfl posted:

Finally finished this badass Deadpool helmet

https://imgur.com/gallery/DNPsd5z

Completely 3d printed, no painting required. The texture is built into the design which is pretty awesome.

Was gonna ask what fabric did you cover that in but

:aaaaa::hf::hawaaaafap:

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

mattfl posted:

Finally finished this badass Deadpool helmet

That's sort of absolutely goddamn amazing.

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

Hadlock posted:

Was gonna ask what fabric did you cover that in but

:aaaaa::hf::hawaaaafap:


Acid Reflux posted:

That's sort of absolutely goddamn amazing.

Ya all credit goes to the designer here for doing an amazing job.

Isometric Bacon
Jul 24, 2004

Let's get naked!

Acid Reflux posted:

You're off to a pretty good start! Judging by the very familiar color, I'm guessing that's the Anycubic Translucent Green you've got there... that stuff is basically liquid garbage. Bin juice. The bar mat shot of resins.

At your earliest convenience, pick up a bottle of literally any other kind of resin. Expect some failures with that too while you dial in exposure, but then revel in the glory of just how much easier better material is to deal with. Even other bad resin is still better than that UV NyQuil.

That is reassuring! With the last couple of failures and the immense cleanup I've been thinking 'oh god, what have I got myself into' - but I remember the same thing when I started FDM printing.

The printer came with two bottles of the stuff, so I guess I've got a bit to churn through. I weirdly couldn't find many profiles for it which I thought was odd given its the one that seems to be packaged with the unit. Also it seems the M3 is reasonably new and Anycubic literally have about 1200 printers with slightly different characteristics which makes it confusing.

Any recommendations on other resins? I was thinking something solid that'd show of the detail.

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Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

Isometric Bacon posted:

That is reassuring! With the last couple of failures and the immense cleanup I've been thinking 'oh god, what have I got myself into' - but I remember the same thing when I started FDM printing.

The printer came with two bottles of the stuff, so I guess I've got a bit to churn through. I weirdly couldn't find many profiles for it which I thought was odd given its the one that seems to be packaged with the unit. Also it seems the M3 is reasonably new and Anycubic literally have about 1200 printers with slightly different characteristics which makes it confusing.

Any recommendations on other resins? I was thinking something solid that'd show of the detail.

Yeah, it's hard to find a baseline for settings when there are so many models with so many subtle differences. When in doubt: overexpose. It's always easier to pry a piece with muddy details off the build plate than it is to scrape failures out of the vat. It's probably a little hard for you to even know what's over- vs. underexposure right now, so don't be afraid to experiment - you may get a feel for things quickly, or it may take you a little while, and that's *all* OK. Resin printing is its own unique beast with its own rules, and I was kind of surprised myself at just how little of my FDM knowledge was actually useful. Just keep at it, make mistakes, take notes (take notes!) on what works and what doesn't for settings, and kind of resign yourself to the fact that you may spend more time cleaning out the vat than actually printing for a little while. It gets better. :)

As far as resins go - I may not actually be the person to ask, because ever since I discovered the company that my now-friend works for, I've used their stuff exclusively. It's expensive. It's really good stuff, but you'll pay for it, and if you're not in the US then you may not even be able to get it. I'll share a name and a link if asked, but I never want anyone to think that I'm just here advertising for them.

Aside from that, I do know the regular ol' gray Elegoo ABS-like resin has always seemed popular with people, and it's quite reasonably priced. Maybe other folks here will have some better suggestions.

mattfl posted:

Ya all credit goes to the designer here for doing an amazing job.
I dunno man, the guy with a good eye for color and an apparently very well-tuned printer may have had a hand in it as well. ;)

Acid Reflux fucked around with this message at 21:56 on Aug 19, 2022

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