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BIG-DICK-BUTT-FUCK
Jan 26, 2016

by Fluffdaddy

Motronic posted:

The posting is indistinguishable from trolling.

This only works when all other posters stop engaging with the stupidity. Unfortunately this happens on a regular basis, as this person waits long enough between bouts of whatever this is to get some other poor poster engaging with them in good faith. That's not productive for anyone. It's been tried, many times.

So the only useful answer here is banning them from yet another subforum where they are unwilling or incapable of acting appropriately.

You have no idea how insulting or maddening it is to be told that your actual thoughts are too stupid to be real or valid "people"-thoughts, or that you yourself are too stupid/hosed-up to be called a human being, do you? Or to be told that all of this is your fault, for reasons you cannot understand or fix?

You have no loving idea what that feels like, do you? Let alone what it feels like to be told that several times across multiple subforums? Not even the faintest loving clue?

No, you don't know what the gently caress that feels like, or you wouldn't loving post this poo poo at me. And if you said this to me in real life you'd get a blunt object swung at your head and you would deserve it. In short, step the gently caress off.

(USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)

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slurm
Jul 28, 2022

by Hand Knit
What the gently caress is going on

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Quit posting about posters and post about tools instead

Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself




Motronic posted:

Then start right here: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3384038&userid=80793 (and that's just from THIS thread)

And I was wrong. This long troll has been going on for 2 and a half years now.

Surely the next poster to engage with this will be the one to finally crack the code and make this project successful.

Claims OCD, ADHD and autism in his posts. It's nice that people are trying to help but that only really works if the other person can listen to advice.

BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:

You have no idea how insulting or maddening it is to be told that your actual thoughts are too stupid to be real or valid "people"-thoughts, or that you yourself are too stupid/hosed-up to be called a human being, do you? Or to be told that all of this is your fault, for reasons you cannot understand or fix?

You have no loving idea what that feels like, do you? Let alone what it feels like to be told that several times across multiple subforums? Not even the faintest loving clue?

No, you don't know what the gently caress that feels like, or you wouldn't loving post this poo poo at me. And if you said this to me in real life you'd get a blunt object swung at your head and you would deserve it. In short, step the gently caress off.

(USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)

And then an alt account shows up now too? :yikes:

(USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)

stealie72
Jan 10, 2007
So, uh, hey, tools.

My 25 year old 1/2 inch Craftsman ratchet broke recently (the plastic tighten/loosen selector broke off).

The craftsman website says "return to your place of purchase for replacement" for their legendary lifetime warranty, but since sears no longer exists in any meaningful way anywhere near me, can I just show up at Lowes with it and get a new one?

If that doesn't work, is Husky the next go-to? This only gets used a few times a year when I've got something that needs a lot of force but I can't fit my impact gun into it, like doing brakes, for example.

Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself




I know Ace carries craftsman stuff.

stealie72
Jan 10, 2007

Suburban Dad posted:

I know Ace carries craftsman stuff.
OK, this made me dig a little deeper on their site and apparently I can do a warranty exchange at any of their current retailers. That was a quick solution to what I thought was going to be a pain in the rear end.

Sash!
Mar 16, 2001


devmd01 posted:

Big fan of the ryobi led work light. The ability to hang it on any 2x is a really nice feature.



Dang thing is like a portable car headlight.

Honestly, I plug mine in most of the time. Yes, it is a hassle to run an extension cord, but it is just so battery hungry.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





stealie72 posted:

OK, this made me dig a little deeper on their site and apparently I can do a warranty exchange at any of their current retailers. That was a quick solution to what I thought was going to be a pain in the rear end.

I haven't done an exchange at Ace yet, but the last time I did one at Lowe's they just had me go find an equivalent current Craftsman tool off the shelf and then ran the warranty exchange. It's not like Sears used to be where they actually had a stock of replacement tools. Last Husky exchange I did went this exact same way as well at HD.

wandler20
Nov 13, 2002

How many Championships?
SunJoe has a bunch of outdoor equipment on sale today on Amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/deal/56d2a710?showVariations=true&ref=dlx_deals_gd_dcl_tlt_5_56d2a710_dt_sl15_6b

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
I kinda wish I went with Greenworks over Ego if only because the of deals at Costco.

Henrik Zetterberg
Dec 7, 2007

The $500 80V Pro Greenworks mower with 2 4Ah batteries and a mulching blade was a loving deal at Costco. Glad I snagged that.

mds2
Apr 8, 2004


Australia: 131114
Canada: 18662773553
Germany: 08001810771
India: 8888817666
Japan: 810352869090
Russia: 0078202577577
UK: 08457909090
US: 1-800-273-8255

Calidus posted:

I kinda wish I went with Greenworks over Ego if only because the of deals at Costco.

Oh poo poo, i didnt realize that costco carried Greenworks. I have a 60 volt trimmer, but it looks like costco carries 80v stuff. drat.

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost
Laser measurer question. I have a Bosch laser measure. I need a target card for it.

The laser is red.

What colour should my target card be? They usually come in red or green. Is the target card colour choice entirely for visibility purposes, or does a red laser measure need a red card in order to get an accurate reading?

withak
Jan 15, 2003


Fun Shoe
Presumably the laser reflects best off of a surface of the matching color.


More important though is that the selected color not clash with the colors of your other tools.

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me
I am thinking about getting a track saw. This would be used mostly for working with sheet goods. Is it worth the extra cash for cordless? I am guessing that it is (for reference, the corded Makita is about $450 and the cordless version is $~$700 with batteries (I do not already have Makita batteries)). Are the big box store brands (DeWalt, Makita, etc) good enough or do I need to buy Festool to get something I will really be happy with? Is the new Ryobi any good (with a good blade installed of course)?

I will be using it a hobbyist amount (weekend project stuff), but I want very good to excellent results. Good plywood is way too expensive right now to waste it because of bad cut quality.

PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 23:00 on Aug 24, 2022

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
Are you expecting to make finished cuts with this new saw? Or are you going to clean them up with a table saw later?

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me
I would like finish cuts out of the saw. I have a cordless circular saw and a shop-made circular saw guide that I can use for rough cuts to be revisited on the table saw. I am looking to do away with that step.

tracecomplete
Feb 26, 2017

PBCrunch posted:

I am thinking about getting a track saw. This would be used mostly for working with sheet goods. Is it worth the extra cash for cordless? I am guessing that it is (for reference, the corded Makita is about $450 and the cordless version is $~$700 with batteries (I do not already have Makita batteries)). Are the big box store brands (DeWalt, Makita, etc) good enough or do I need to buy Festool to get something I will really be happy with? Is the new Ryobi any good (with a good blade installed of course)?

I will be using it a hobbyist amount (weekend project stuff), but I want very good to excellent results. Good plywood is way too expensive right now to waste it because of bad cut quality.

I have a cordless one. I would rather have a corded one. You will absolutely need dust extraction (fair warning: it's a weird shape connector, Woodcraft sells an adapter but the ones on Amazon are kinda hit or miss), and so you're carrying that around anyway, and if it's corded you can hook it up to a relay that starts the vacuum at the same time.

I really like the cordless Makita, but a corded track saw just makes more sense in most situations.

Inspired by the Festool plug system, I've cut down the cords on most of my non-Festool tools and put an L5-20 connector on them. Then I've velcroed the dust hose on my small-power-tools vacuum to the extension cord that matches the L5 connector, so I just plug them both in at the same time, and when the tool comes on the vacuum comes on regardless of tool. Except, of course...the cordless track saw.

(I also have a Festool-to-L5 adapter for my Domino, because the Domino owns.)

BIG-DICK-BUTT-FUCK
Jan 26, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
I work on occasion w a contractor who has a cordless festool track saw and he gets creative w it. Notably, using it to cut the tails on siding all at once, after hanging it. Also it's very nice for drywall cutouts, sometimes we're able to re-use the section of drywall we cut out and just fasten it back to the wall. Even if not, perfectly clean and straight cuts along the framing member make repair a cinch.

I'm a bigger corded tool fan than most, but a cordless track saw will have you using it in all kinds of unplanned but highly effective ways

e: if it's just for woodworking, then yeah go corded

Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010

PBCrunch posted:

I am thinking about getting a track saw. This would be used mostly for working with sheet goods. Is it worth the extra cash for cordless? I am guessing that it is (for reference, the corded Makita is about $450 and the cordless version is $~$700 with batteries (I do not already have Makita batteries)). Are the big box store brands (DeWalt, Makita, etc) good enough or do I need to buy Festool to get something I will really be happy with? Is the new Ryobi any good (with a good blade installed of course)?

I will be using it a hobbyist amount (weekend project stuff), but I want very good to excellent results. Good plywood is way too expensive right now to waste it because of bad cut quality.

I went with the corded Makita, my thinking was I would be using it hooked up to the shop-vac 99% of the time so by going cordless I wasn't really gaining anything, just a bit of extra weight if anything.

Make sure to check the alignment of the blade to the shoe/track. Mine was out of parallel a tiny bit so the first bunch of cuts there was a ton of burning, I just figured the blade it came with was trash. Once I aligned it, its been all good, it's actually a decent blade to come with a saw.

Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself




Henrik Zetterberg posted:

The $500 80V Pro Greenworks mower with 2 4Ah batteries and a mulching blade was a loving deal at Costco. Glad I snagged that.

I too bought one and I'm half pleased with it. I run mine near full speed when mowing and sometimes when I shut off the self propel it will just die and not restart. The lights will just blink when trying to start it. I assume it's a thermal issue with the batteries or motor, but ejecting a battery and putting it back in seems to let it start again. My yard isn't huge, I can do it with 1 battery usually, about 45 min or so. And this shutoff happens nearly every time I mow, so it's pretty annoying. My other annoyance is how long it takes for the self propel to kick in once you activate it. It's waaaaaay too conservative and should come in quicker IMO.

I tried looking into their customer support and I couldn't find an email address and waited about 20 minutes on the phone without talking to a real person before I gave up. :effort:

Henrik Zetterberg
Dec 7, 2007

Suburban Dad posted:

I too bought one and I'm half pleased with it. I run mine near full speed when mowing and sometimes when I shut off the self propel it will just die and not restart. The lights will just blink when trying to start it. I assume it's a thermal issue with the batteries or motor, but ejecting a battery and putting it back in seems to let it start again. My yard isn't huge, I can do it with 1 battery usually, about 45 min or so. And this shutoff happens nearly every time I mow, so it's pretty annoying. My other annoyance is how long it takes for the self propel to kick in once you activate it. It's waaaaaay too conservative and should come in quicker IMO.

I tried looking into their customer support and I couldn't find an email address and waited about 20 minutes on the phone without talking to a real person before I gave up. :effort:

Yeah I haven't had that happen to me at all. Definitely sounds like a(nother) customer service call is in store. It's been 95-105' here for about 6+ weeks now and I haven't experienced any thermal issues. I typically mow during the hot portion of the day too.

The only time I use self-propel is when I make a turn and the handle is up against bushes or something that prevents me from being able to get behind the mower. But yeah, the 1-second delay before it starts rolling is a bit annoying. I can imagine it would be even moreso if I used self-propel regularly.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





My Ego has a similar delay in the self propel but it doesn't seem to be too much of an issue. The one thing I've had to make sure to do is to stop using it well ahead of when I actually want to stop or turn, because it seems like there's a one-way clutch of some sort. If you don't give it long enough to disengage, the wheels are basically locked when you try to pull the mower backwards.

It is nice being able to just hang onto the corner of the mower and let itself drive under some orange trees without having to crawl under myself.

Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself




IOwnCalculus posted:

My Ego has a similar delay in the self propel but it doesn't seem to be too much of an issue. The one thing I've had to make sure to do is to stop using it well ahead of when I actually want to stop or turn, because it seems like there's a one-way clutch of some sort. If you don't give it long enough to disengage, the wheels are basically locked when you try to pull the mower backwards.

Oh yeah, I get this too and do the same thing now. It still trips up the clutch though sometimes and stays locked longer than it should. Very annoying.

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


A decade or so ago my mom brought me back this pair of shears from Japan. I have no idea what they're made of except obviously some sort of iron-based material. They're rusting. Can I use Naval Jelly to clean them, then mineral oil afterward? What's best?

Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard

Arsenic Lupin posted:

A decade or so ago my mom brought me back this pair of shears from Japan. I have no idea what they're made of except obviously some sort of iron-based material. They're rusting. Can I use Naval Jelly to clean them, then mineral oil afterward? What's best?



I would NOT use naval jelly on shears, it is much too aggressive. Have you tried some WD-40 or other spray lubricant on a cloth and rubbing the rust off? I'd say start as gentle as you can.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Uncle Enzo posted:

I would NOT use naval jelly on shears, it is much too aggressive. Have you tried some WD-40 or other spray lubricant on a cloth and rubbing the rust off? I'd say start as gentle as you can.

Next step past that is light oil like wd-40 and 0000 steel wool. Do not put a lot of pressure on it but DO make sure it is well soaked in oil where you're rubbing.

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost
Realistically- how cheap can one go for a combination square? I have been bending pipe at my workplace for a while now so accuracy is important. And the guy whose combo square I usually borrow is leaving and taking his with him. I like good accurate tools but $130 for the often recommended Starrett brand combo square is pretty steep. What does $130 even get you in a tool like that?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

melon cat posted:

Realistically- how cheap can one go for a combination square? I have been bending pipe at my workplace for a while now so accuracy is important. And the guy whose combo square I usually borrow is leaving and taking his with him. I like good accurate tools but $130 for the often recommended Starrett brand combo square is pretty steep. What does $130 even get you in a tool like that?

Are you bending pipe for a space shuttle, nuclear reactor, or plumbing parts? This should inform your decision on how good is good enough.

(hint: your tools would be serialized/regularly calibrated if any of this mattered)

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


melon cat posted:

Realistically- how cheap can one go for a combination square? I have been bending pipe at my workplace for a while now so accuracy is important. And the guy whose combo square I usually borrow is leaving and taking his with him. I like good accurate tools but $130 for the often recommended Starrett brand combo square is pretty steep. What does $130 even get you in a tool like that?

I love my starrett and it is square and stays square, but I baby it a mostly nobody but me uses it. In a production shop environment at work where someone might borrow your square, I wouldn't want one. Someone somewhere has mentioned buying blemished PEC combination squares and them being excellent for the price?

Or just make your work buy you a good square and don't wear out your personal tools.

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost

Motronic posted:

Are you bending pipe for a space shuttle, nuclear reactor, or plumbing parts? This should inform your decision on how good is good enough.

(hint: your tools would be serialized/regularly calibrated if any of this mattered)

Bending pipe for industrial equipment. Calibration requirements and standards differ depending on who’s in charge. I personally do care about being as accurate as possible but don’t know how much more accurate a $20 Empire could be from a $130 Starrett.

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

I love my starrett and it is square and stays square, but I baby it a mostly nobody but me uses it. In a production shop environment at work where someone might borrow your square, I wouldn't want one. Someone somewhere has mentioned buying blemished PEC combination squares and them being excellent for the price?

Or just make your work buy you a good square and don't wear out your personal tools.

Yep I work in a production shop environment where tools get borrowed constantly. If I get my work to buy me a good square they’ll just get whatever is on the Home Depot shelf.

\/ I’ve got a framing square already but also need a combo square

melon cat fucked around with this message at 00:46 on Aug 27, 2022

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


melon cat posted:

Bending pipe for industrial equipment. Calibration requirements and standards differ depending on who’s in charge. I personally do care about being as accurate as possible but don’t know how much more accurate a $20 Empire could be from a $130 Starrett.
I don't know what scale you are working at, but I would think a framing square might be better for this? I would think the radius of the bend wouldn't leave much space for the combination square to register on, and so probably accuracy isn't super duper important? Cheap squares feel kind of awful but I would guess they are probably 'good enough' for your purposes.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

melon cat posted:

If I get my work to buy me a good square they’ll just get whatever is on the Home Depot shelf.

Sounds like they have set the bar for their own expectations.

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost

Motronic posted:

Sounds like they have set the bar for their own expectations.

Haha yeah but if my work isn’t up to snub on *that one day* guess who will have to take the heat for it

melon cat fucked around with this message at 01:55 on Jan 15, 2024

slurm
Jul 28, 2022

by Hand Knit
As a guy who gets a lot of industrial pipes bent and has to install them, if that poo poo's not right we'll curse your name for decades.

Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(

A $20 empire is adjusted the same way as a Starrett. Both will eventually be out of square with enough use, but the empire might start off that way. As long as the rule is straight and parallel, it can be squared up. Pull the rule out, look inside the head at the bearing surface that the rule is pulled against. Use a little file (or the sharp edge of the rule) and scrape a tiny amount of cast iron off of whichever side of the lock knob you need, and then put it back together and check if it's square. Repeat as needed.

The big improvement you'll get by getting a PEC, Brown & Sharpe, Starrett, etc is that the blade is ground far better, the cast head is nicer and you're never going to break the hook off on the locking knob.


e: framing squares aren't square either, regardless of which one you buy, barring some luck. Those are pretty easily adjusted with a centerpunch.

BIG-DICK-BUTT-FUCK
Jan 26, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
I've never had a framing square come out of square new, at least beyond what i could see when i tested it. i test them by drawing a perpendicular line, flipping the square and drawing it again ...if the lines match, it's square. it's only when you drop them that they'll get bent

"production shop" makes me think work is fast paced, i wouldn't wanna bring an expensive, delicate tool to work only to drop it or have someone borrow/abuse/steal it. what do you use the combo square for anyways, marking/measuring the length of pipe?

Bob Mundon
Dec 1, 2003
Your Friendly Neighborhood Gun Nut
Needed to replace my old busted black and decker drill so went with the free tool hack with Home Depot to switch that to the Ridgid ecosystem. I got the brushless circular saw with the intention of returning it since I have a DeWalt circular that works well, but it is the old brushed model. Would you guys return the Ridgid, or sell the DeWalt?

Going to run with both battery systems for the time being, so that's a non issue (although I'm a DTO deal whore so if I go Ridgid not terrible).

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neogeo0823
Jul 4, 2007

NO THAT'S NOT ME!!

Hey thread, I'm getting really sick of my own ineptitude regarding being able to mark and drill properly-aligned holes in things. The issue is that I'm A.) in an apartment, and thus space is at a super-premium, and B.) don't have hundreds of dollars to spend on a proper drill press at the moment. I've seen both miniature drill presses, as well as drill press attachment things you can attach your drill to that are supposed to be relatively "as good". Can you guys please give me some insights on what to look for for a decently bang-for-the-buck sorta thing for this?

For the specific use-case I'm currently griping about, I've got some aluminum C-channel I'm trying to drill holes through to place a bolt through. I can measure and mark the spots fine, but when it comes time to drill, the holes are all over the place. Yes, even when I use an awl to make a pre-mark to drill. I figure it'd be nice to be able to at least drill straight through one side, then the other, if possible.

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