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Been a long time since I clicked "download all files" I guess, I normally just grab a specific file.
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Aug 30, 2022 05:47
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IncredibleIgloo posted:Do we still suspect it was a filament issue? My oven won't go low enough to dry out the filament and is gas anyway, so it is hard to regulate temperature so I won't be able to dry out my purple filament without buying something to do that. It's not a filament issue, PLA isn't hydroscopic enough for moisture to matter. It's either a problem with extrusion, heat creep or clogs. What temp are you printing at? It might need more heat.
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Aug 30, 2022 06:21
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Dr. Fishopolis posted:It's not a filament issue, PLA isn't hydroscopic enough for moisture to matter. It's either a problem with extrusion, heat creep or clogs. What temp are you printing at? It might need more heat. I am printing at 200. I am back to my purple filament and getting decent results, just manipulating a few things at a time. I did a big print and spent a lot of time playing with the Z offset and the extrusion force to get a great first layer. One issue I was having was adjusting the z-offset to be exactly tuned to the paper, and not understanding that the paper trick is just a guide, I really needed to pay attention to the first layer. So I started printing a large wide piece and would watch it lay down the first layer for 10 or 15 minutes and play with the settings. The bottom layer looked "furry" and I googled that and a reddit thread showed almost an exact image of my furry first layer and the comments there were to back off the Z axis. So I did that, my Z axis was at least two steps too close, even though that is what the paper test indicated it should be. So now I am thinking maybe my poor first layer caused some unevenness in my prints. I am printing the big piece overnight so we will see how that comes out. I have about a bajillion evil ancient wasp nest prints now, so maybe I have to make a warhammer wasp world table.
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Aug 30, 2022 06:29
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I think they pulled that code because the backlash was intense and immediate. I know a lot of people pulled their poo poo off of there, though. For a lot of older listings, you can still do the /zip after the thing ID and it will download the zip file automatically.
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Aug 30, 2022 10:54
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drat, with that short-lived change, Thingiverse having effectively no new features added in years, and the deteriorating usability of the site, (for example, the Customizer which I thought was neat hasn't worked in what also feels like years) it's like they want to push people away.
Unperson_47 fucked around with this message at 11:25 on Aug 30, 2022 |
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Aug 30, 2022 11:22
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Dr. Fishopolis posted:It's not a filament issue, PLA isn't hydroscopic enough for moisture to matter. It's either a problem with extrusion, heat creep or clogs. What temp are you printing at? It might need more heat. Hygroscopic 
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Aug 30, 2022 11:37
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I have ublock origin and download all still work just fine? Am I misunderstanding something?
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Aug 30, 2022 11:43
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Dr. Fishopolis posted:It's not a filament issue, PLA isn't hydroscopic enough for moisture to matter. It's either a problem with extrusion, heat creep or clogs. What temp are you printing at? It might need more heat. Given we saw the same behavior with two filaments.... Yeah. IncredibleIgloo posted:I am printing at 200. I am back to my purple filament and getting decent results, just manipulating a few things at a time. I did a big print and spent a lot of time playing with the Z offset and the extrusion force to get a great first layer. Sorry to send you on the "it's wet" path. Have you tried reseating the nozzle as Doc suggested earlier? Your print times seem.... reasonable, but it's worth asking, what speed are you printing at? Your first layer thickness isn't causing you restricted extrusion an inch up. First layer "stuff" disappears as soon as the whole print isn't one solid layer, as there's room for the excess filament to be pushed somewhere. As long as your print is sticking, first layer isn't something to really obsess about. The difference between a perfect first layer, and a bad first layer is very, very, small. A couple hundredths of a millimeter (1/4 or 1/8th turn on the bed screws) The difference between "it gets me useful prints" and "failed print" is pretty wide, a couple tenths of a milimeter. (Half a turn, maybe 3/4 of a turn on the bed screws.) insta posted:Modern hotends do absolutely heat-creep. The Afterburner on a Voron will jam a Dragon HF and PLA almost immediately, for instance. A V6 is one of the best PLA hotends still because of the massive heatsink area. Plenty of other problems with it, but it does pull heat straight from the hot area fast. Dragonfly is another good one for PLA. (A problem I had recently... actually. Hot end fan on the V0 only lasted 50 hours..)
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Aug 30, 2022 14:06
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Nerobro posted:Given we saw the same behavior with two filaments.... Yeah. I did reseat the nozzle, yes. In fact replaced the original nozzle and the ptfe tube. The print speeds and other settings are: Quality Layer Height 0.2 Initial Layer Height 0.2 Line Width (and all others) 0.4 Walls: Wall Thickness 1.2 Wall line count 2 Outer wall wipe distance 0.2 Outer Wall inset 0 Print thin walls : yes Top/Bottom Top skin layers : 0 Top/bottom thickness 1.2 Top thick : 1.2 Top layers : 6 Bottom Thick : 1.2 Bottom Layers 6 Speed Print Speed : 50 Infill Speed : 50 Wall Speed : 25 Outer Wall: 25 Inner Wall: 25 Top/Bottom 25 Travel: 100 Z Hop: 10 Acceleration 1000 Travel Acceleration 5000 Jerk Control: enabled Jerk (infall/wall/top/bottom): 8 Travel Jerk 10 Travel Settings: Enable retraction: yes Retraction distance: 6 Retraction Speed: 40 Retraction Extra Prime: 0 Retraction minimum travel : 1.5 Max Retraction Count: 90 Min Extrusion Distance Window: 6 Combing: All Max comb distance with no retract: 0 Retract before outer wall: off Avoid Print parts when travelling: On Travel avoid distance 0.625 Z Hop when Retracted : Off Minimum Layer Time 5 Also, is there an easy way to copy paste settings from cura?
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Aug 30, 2022 15:02
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Nerobro posted:Isn't that a large portion of why the stealthburner is a thing. You're right, but I've only read about modern hot ends heat creeping in chambers. I can't remember the last time heat creep was a thing that wasn't directly related to a dead fan or a hot chamber in a long time. Nothing substantial has changed about hotend design in years, everyone is still using MK8s and V6s for the most part. I dunno what you think changed. Heat creep is still absolutely a thing. The stealthburner doesn't do anything special either, it's just a remixed BMG direct drive setup. Nerobro posted:Given we saw the same behavior with two filaments.... Yeah. Given that it's PLA, and that is not a problem that happens with PLA.... Yeah. Dr. Fishopolis fucked around with this message at 16:25 on Aug 30, 2022 |
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Aug 30, 2022 16:16
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Dr. Fishopolis posted:Nothing substantial has changed about hotend design in years, everyone is still using MK8s and V6s for the most part. I dunno what you think changed. Heat creep is still absolutely a thing. The stealthburner doesn't do anything special either, it's just a remixed BMG direct drive setup. Well, if we're talking the last 5 years or so... No, not a lot has changed. I think what most people blame as heat creep, isn't. It's a boogeyman that people point fingers at. Like bed leveling. The afterburner had (has) less than ideal airflow to the hot end heatsink. The design was optimized to keep airflow away from the print area, and that had some consequences. The Stealthburner does a better job. Neither are intrinsically a drive setup. The afterburner on my Legacy is setup as bowden with an M4 extruder. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 16:29 on Aug 30, 2022 |
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Aug 30, 2022 16:24
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Nerobro posted:Neither are intrinsically a drive setup. The afterburner on my Legacy is setup as bowden with an M4 extruder. ... What? Have you looked at a stealthburner? It's open source and you can download the STLs for free y'know. A BMG extruder kit is part of the BOM, it is absolutely intrinsically a drive setup.
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Aug 30, 2022 16:28
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Dr. Fishopolis posted:... What? The extruder published with the Stealthburner is the Clockwork 2. It is not the Stealthburner. You can run many extruders with the Stealthburner. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 16:39 on Aug 30, 2022 |
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Aug 30, 2022 16:36
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IncredibleIgloo posted:Folks that print a lot of terrain with an FDM printer for miniature games, what size nozzle do you use? Do you mostly use a 4, or is a 2 reasonable for printing terrain. I want it to look as nice as possible. It's not intuitive, but going smaller actually makes most terrain print worse, IMO, and leads to more gaps, top layers not working well, etc. I don't think most terrain is really modeled for super fine FDM printing. As an example, I printed some 2nd Dynasty space ships in lower layer height than recommended (they recommend .15 lowest) and it looked terrible. The best way to get crisp details is to support and slice it for resin, but that's kind of a pain and x4 more expensive.
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Aug 30, 2022 16:46
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My favorite thing is when I leave a Thingiverse tab or two open, and come back to each one taking 4GB of memory and tanking my cpu.
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Aug 30, 2022 17:34
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I tried, months ago, to publish a model on Thingiverse, but the thing to create a new account was horribly broken. Just this endless loop of failure that I was unable to cure. So I moved everything to printables.com, which seems okay. Lately it's been feeling like all these cool central repositories for things are crumbling. I hope I'm wrong, but I've been moving everything back to a self-hosted gitea server just in case.
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Aug 30, 2022 18:06
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A pox on all manufacturers that make their devices subtly, artistically curved I'm trying to print a mounting bracket for a Logitech speaker (that will give the speaker more support than just being screwed into the ¼-20 UNC at the back) and there is not a single straight edge or surface on the entire goddamn thing
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Aug 30, 2022 18:18
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Can retraction speed and distance impact fine detail work? I am printing out a retraction test tower right now, and the test tower is designed to test increments of distance from 1mm to 5mm. My settings that I have printed with so far, and have never changed, have a default value of 6mm. The print is not done yet but I don't see any webbing or strings at all even at the 1mm tower height, so I am wondering if 6mm may be absurdly large? Also, people were right that there is a lot of fiddling that goes on with 3D printing. I guess I should have assumed the total amount of variables would be this high.
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Aug 30, 2022 18:39
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cruft posted:I tried, months ago, to publish a model on Thingiverse, but the thing to create a new account was horribly broken. Just this endless loop of failure that I was unable to cure. Thingiverse has been on a miserable decline for years and that was one of the motivators for Prusa to get the Printables site together
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Aug 30, 2022 18:40
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IncredibleIgloo posted:Can retraction speed and distance impact fine detail work? I am printing out a retraction test tower right now, and the test tower is designed to test increments of distance from 1mm to 5mm. My settings that I have printed with so far, and have never changed, have a default value of 6mm. The print is not done yet but I don't see any webbing or strings at all even at the 1mm tower height, so I am wondering if 6mm may be absurdly large? Yes. And excessive retraction can cause what you were seeing on things that had lots of retracts... 6mm isn't absurd, but it is "vaguely" on the high end. Pulling the filament entirely out of the melt zone isn't good. I have a much longer bowden on my Legacy, and I use 5mm.
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Aug 30, 2022 18:43
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I can't imagine thingverse is much better than break even profitable. It's basically a file sharing site that was originally designed to promote....I think the MakerBot? Maker faire, maker bot and make magazine have all mostly folded at this point run by the guys over at boingboing and that self promoting rear end in a top hat cory doctorow If it was at all profitable they probably sold it off as the only popular product worth anything I'm super excited about step file support coming up prusaslicer, that will probably be the last nail in the coffin. Would love to see Prusa buy like, freecad, or some other fusion 360 competitor and go full SpaceX vertical integration
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Aug 30, 2022 18:49
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Nerobro posted:Yes. And excessive retraction can cause what you were seeing on things that had lots of retracts... 6mm isn't absurd, but it is "vaguely" on the high end. Pulling the filament entirely out of the melt zone isn't good. I have a much longer bowden on my Legacy, and I use 5mm. My printer is a direct drive if that impacts the amount of retraction?
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Aug 30, 2022 18:57
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Also my 3d printer is upstairs and my computer is downstairs and if I walk down stairs without the loving SD card again I am going to lose my mind.
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Aug 30, 2022 19:00
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IncredibleIgloo posted:My printer is a direct drive if that impacts the amount of retraction? Oh geeze. The right amount of retraction for direct drive is somewhere between 0.3mm and 0.8mm. Yes, that could explain everything.
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Aug 30, 2022 19:03
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IncredibleIgloo posted:Also my 3d printer is upstairs and my computer is downstairs and if I walk down stairs without the loving SD card again I am going to lose my mind. This is why octoprint is a must-have for me, gently caress carrying around the gcode on physical media
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Aug 30, 2022 19:20
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ToxicFrog posted:A pox on all manufacturers that make their devices subtly, artistically curved Doesn't injection molding encourage this inherently? Draft angles etc.
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Aug 30, 2022 19:22
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IncredibleIgloo posted:My printer is a direct drive if that impacts the amount of retraction? It sure the heck does, that entirely explains your issue. You don't need more than 1mm of retraction, really. 6mm is a good default for bowden but WAY too much for direct.
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Aug 30, 2022 19:32
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IncredibleIgloo posted:Also my 3d printer is upstairs and my computer is downstairs and if I walk down stairs without the loving SD card again I am going to lose my mind. Brother, have you heard the good news about Octoprint?
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Aug 30, 2022 19:34
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Hadlock posted:I can't imagine thingverse is much better than break even profitable. It's basically a file sharing site that was originally designed to promote....I think the MakerBot? Maker faire, maker bot and make magazine have all mostly folded at this point run by the guys over at boingboing and that self promoting rear end in a top hat cory doctorow Yeah makerbot. Despite the name, they're unrelated to makerfaire/make magazine. Anyway makerbot was bought by stratasys, which is generally when they are considered to have gone down hill. Leaving thingiverse to rot, releasing more expensive and less reliable hardware, rounds of layoffs, and then much more expensive hardware.
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Aug 30, 2022 20:09
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IncredibleIgloo posted:Also my 3d printer is upstairs and my computer is downstairs and if I walk down stairs without the loving SD card again I am going to lose my mind. The real struggle is forgetting to confirm your print in the garage and heading back inside for the night
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Aug 30, 2022 20:11
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You guys trust your printers enough not to at least watch that first layer go down???
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Aug 30, 2022 20:18
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mattfl posted:You guys trust your printers enough not to at least watch that first layer go down??? No, I just have a webcam connected to octoprint so I can watch it without having to physically go to it.
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Aug 30, 2022 20:20
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Hello Wife and I are looking at getting a 3d printer primarily for miniatures. I've watched a read a few beginner guides, watched a few youtubes, and am still left with some questions if anyone has a quick minute. Is Resin still the go to for finer detailed miniatures? My budgets about $500 and right now I'm leaning towards Creality Halot Plus resin printer. It seems like its recommended to not have the printer in the same room you occupy, is this still the case? I can handle smells, but not a big fan of toxic fumes.
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Aug 30, 2022 20:34
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Yes, resin is still the go to for miniatures. And yes, you do NOT want it anywhere near you. Resin itself is pretty toxic stuff and the fumes are nothing you want to breathe. Make sure it's in a well ventilated area and preferably filtered too.
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Aug 30, 2022 20:37
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Resin is like a table saw, neither the nightmare that its detractors present nor suitable for your carpeted apartment bedroom. You have to find something to do with large amounts of contaminated alcohol, though.
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Aug 30, 2022 20:38
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Ghetto SuperCzar posted:Hello Make sure you read up on safely handling and disposing of uncured resin before you print anything.
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Aug 30, 2022 20:42
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Len posted:I have ublock origin and download all still work just fine? Am I misunderstanding something? Not all adblockers are the same is all, I think. I suppose that as with most things on thingiverse, it has no resources to do any particular thing more than halfway. I was using ABP and they went all  but apparently ublock origin seems fine.
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Aug 30, 2022 20:54
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Ghetto SuperCzar posted:Hello Mars 2 or 3 will both do it for you. I wouldn't have it running in a room you sleep or hang out In. If you find it smells then an enclosure and carbon filter can work pretty well. Do t worry about going large format, it'll keep you costs down when something inevitably breaks like a fep, and take what you have left to spend on some gloves/alcohol/paper-towel. Wash and cure stations are really killer too and a massive qol upgrade over a Tupperware and the sun
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Aug 30, 2022 20:57
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cruft posted:Brother, have you heard the good news about Octoprint? I will have to give it a good looking at! But here is the odd thing, I trusted, perhaps erroneously, that the settings provided by anycubic would be somewhat correct for the printer it came bundled with. For them to have retraction set at 6 makes me think they didn't really update their software presets or something. I think this was a good learning experience for me. I have learned more in the last 48 hours about 3D printing and I feel ready to start troubleshooting a whole mess of problems I have not yet encountered.
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Aug 30, 2022 22:41
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I should really set up my printables account and import from thingiverse (hopefully that still works)
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Aug 30, 2022 22:45
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