Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard

Blowjob Overtime posted:

Drill bit talk: is there any meaningful difference in quality between drill bit brands available at LowesDepot? Same question for hex-shank driver bits, I suppose.

The Ryobi drill bits don't seem to hold up as well. DeWalt, Milwaukee, Makita, all seem fine. Diablo is good poo poo.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

FCKGW
May 21, 2006

Uncle Enzo posted:

The Ryobi drill bits don't seem to hold up as well. DeWalt, Milwaukee, Makita, all seem fine. Diablo is good poo poo.

I bought some Dewalt bits years ago that still seem to work well. They've got like that little pilot point on the end? Good for starting holes without the bit walking around. I don't do any metal work though.

These guys: https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-Titanium-Nitride-Coated-Pilot-Point-Drill-Bit-Set-14-Piece-DW1354/202019930

Paradoxish
Dec 19, 2003

Will you stop going crazy in there?
Yeah, I'm not a fan of Ryobi bits in general (drill or driver). I have a bunch of Milwaukee and DeWalt bits that have survived a ton of projects, but all my Ryobi kits end up with big gaps in them because the bits either snap or dull out way too fast.

Mr. Yuk
Apr 1, 2005

In case of accidental ingestion, please consult a mortician.

Blowjob Overtime posted:

Drill bit talk: is there any meaningful difference in quality between drill bit brands available at LowesDepot? Same question for hex-shank driver bits, I suppose.

The brand name ones will be about the same/very decent. Avoid the house brands like the plague.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


just to quantify these claims a little bit, I bought an 8 pack of dewalt robertson driver bits and the first bit from that pack has lasted longer than the whole 8 pack of canadian tire ones I bought before that. The dewalt 8 pack was 2 bucks more.

Don't buy potato quality bits.

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
Bits and blades are two places that spending a little extra get better results.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib

Verman posted:

Bits and blades are two places that spending a little extra get better results.

This pretty much goes for all consumables: grinding wheels, glue, tape, sandpaper, etc. They're places that you really do get what you pay for.

I. M. Gei
Jun 26, 2005

CHIEFS

BITCH



Ryobi drill bits are dogshit. All the ones I've ever used were dull as poo poo out of the box and a couple of them bent pretty bad after only one or two uses.

slurm
Jul 28, 2022

by Hand Knit
I've seen "breaker finder" tools advertised, are these any good?

esquilax
Jan 3, 2003

slurm posted:

I've seen "breaker finder" tools advertised, are these any good?

I have one of these https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-ET310-Circuit-Integrated/dp/B07QNMCVWP. It does work but sometimes can give a false positive on the breaker next to the correct one, so it doesn't obviate the need to test the actual breaker. Because of that I wouldn't really recommend it, but I do get some rare use out of it.

Henrik Zetterberg
Dec 7, 2007

esquilax posted:

I have one of these https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-ET310-Circuit-Integrated/dp/B07QNMCVWP. It does work but sometimes can give a false positive on the breaker next to the correct one, so it doesn't obviate the need to test the actual breaker. Because of that I wouldn't really recommend it, but I do get some rare use out of it.

I have one and love it. You have to go through the calibration process in the manual when you first get it or else you’ll probably get some false readings.

Pair this with one of those light socket to 3-prong plug converters and you can find any breaker. It’s fantastic not having to go through the
- “Hey kid, stand here and tell me when the light goes off”
- Go outside to breaker panel and flip a few
- “Anything yet?????”
- “Nope!”
- Flip a couple more, “anything?!”
- “Nope!”
- Flip the rest, “how about now???”
- “No nothing”
- what the gently caress………. “Are you on your phone????”
- “Uhhhhhh, can you try them again?”
- goddammit

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf

esquilax posted:

I have one of these https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-ET310-Circuit-Integrated/dp/B07QNMCVWP. It does work but sometimes can give a false positive on the breaker next to the correct one, so it doesn't obviate the need to test the actual breaker. Because of that I wouldn't really recommend it, but I do get some rare use out of it.

I've got this one too and it's great. Works on fuses too!

The one caveat is the line has to be energized for it to work. If you're looking to trace a wire that's not live you'll need a different tool.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

Any strong opinions of wren belt sanders? The $40 corded ones at Home Depot.

Basic enthusiast / home grade bull poo poo I’m not opening a carpentry workshop or refinishing a ballroom. I’m resurfacing the top of a workbench so I’ll need to do a decent but not excessive amount of material removal. The old trusty rotary seems like it would be wholly insufficient to the task. Edit: especially since this is going to involve removing an embarrassing amount of epoxy accidents.

Alternatively any compelling reason to step up and drop $70 on the corded Ryobi?


Edit: I understand at $40 it’s probably going to be mediocre at best, just trying to figure out if it’s good enough for light duty mediocrity or if I’m a fool for not spending a bit more.

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




My Ryobi drill bits do the job but I'm def gonna buy DeWalt next time

Uncle Enzo
Apr 28, 2008

I always wanted to be a Wizard
These aren't definitive tests by any means, but here is some decently objective comparison testing:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xgQeSrsAXgE

And

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9c86f6b9JG4

The short answer is yes there is a difference: slightly more expensive drill bits from reputable brands are way the gently caress better quality than the huge cheap sets.

BIG-DICK-BUTT-FUCK
Jan 26, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
why does a power tool draw more current under load? I’m talking about how you can trip a breaker if you push a big saw or grinder too hard. I would assume the current draw to be constant, how does the tool “know” to draw more current?

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
eli5: yes.

A stalled motor is effectively shorted and can draw infinite* current. As you approach 0 rpm the draw increases. More load slows down the motor.

*until the windings burn out, which can be on the order of seconds.

Sleve McDichael
Feb 11, 2019

~nice~
Back-EMF I think? Once a motor is spinning, it acts as a generator and reduces the drawn current. Slow it down and more current is drawn to maintain speed - which is also why it takes more current to start a saw etc. than to run it at a stable speed

Wanderless
Apr 30, 2009

canyoneer posted:

Home Depot has a sale right now on a Ridgid 12" dual bevel sliding miter saw with the extremely rad Ridgid mobile saw stand for $400.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-...C9946/310390809

I have no experience with that saw but I will forever stan for that stand.

I have a slightly older version of that saw from 15 years ago, on that stand. They're both great. Built a house and trimmed all of the windows with it, and would buy it again for that price. Looks like the new one has the superior blade light versus the laser line mine had.
The only downside is if you're really space constrained or plan to mount it on a workbench--the slides need more clearance behind it. If I were building my own shop again I'd probably go for one of the Bosch or Delta ones with the hinged action rather than the glides, but those are half again the price without a stand.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Cyrano4747 posted:

Any strong opinions of wren belt sanders? The $40 corded ones at Home Depot.

Basic enthusiast / home grade bull poo poo I’m not opening a carpentry workshop or refinishing a ballroom. I’m resurfacing the top of a workbench so I’ll need to do a decent but not excessive amount of material removal. The old trusty rotary seems like it would be wholly insufficient to the task. Edit: especially since this is going to involve removing an embarrassing amount of epoxy accidents.

Alternatively any compelling reason to step up and drop $70 on the corded Ryobi?


Edit: I understand at $40 it’s probably going to be mediocre at best, just trying to figure out if it’s good enough for light duty mediocrity or if I’m a fool for not spending a bit more.

You do NOT want a lovely belt sander. I don't like 3"x21" because they're tiny toys, and you're gonna gouge the surface and use up a lot of belts. Idk what your old trusty rotary is, but a scraper and a DA sander with dust collection would be my advice. Gonna be more than $70 though.

Literally A Person
Jan 1, 1970

Smugworth Wuz Here
Ryobi's corded belt sander is a trash tier tool. That said, given it's shape, it was easy as hell to clamp it to my workbench and use it as a stationary tool.

Elem7
Apr 12, 2003
der
Dinosaur Gum
Do any pro-sumer lines even sell a 4x24 belt sander anymore aside from Makita?

I haven't been super impressed with the 3x21 sanders I've used either but while those all seem to be under $100 the jump to 4x24 is well over $200.

korora
Sep 3, 2011

BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:

why does a power tool draw more current under load? I’m talking about how you can trip a breaker if you push a big saw or grinder too hard. I would assume the current draw to be constant, how does the tool “know” to draw more current?

Just to expand slightly on the previous answers - a motor is in equilibrium when the motor torque is equal to the load. DC motor torque is proportional to current, and current is driven by net voltage (i.e. the input voltage minus back-EMF, which depends on speed). So when you load the motor, it will slow down because the torque is too low to match the new load level, so the net voltage goes up, which causes the current (and therefore the torque) to increase, eventually reaching a new equilibrium at a lower speed and higher torque.

A stopped or stalled motor has no back-EMF and therefore the maximum current for a given input voltage, but it's reasonable to assume you're always just getting Ohm's law current (I = V/R) based on the resistance of the windings and the net voltage at that time.

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:

korora posted:

Just to expand slightly on the previous answers - a motor is in equilibrium when the motor torque is equal to the load. DC motor torque is proportional to current, and current is driven by net voltage (i.e. the input voltage minus back-EMF, which depends on speed). So when you load the motor, it will slow down because the torque is too low to match the new load level, so the net voltage goes up, which causes the current (and therefore the torque) to increase, eventually reaching a new equilibrium at a lower speed and higher torque.

A stopped or stalled motor has no back-EMF and therefore the maximum current for a given input voltage, but it's reasonable to assume you're always just getting Ohm's law current (I = V/R) based on the resistance of the windings and the net voltage at that time.

Or to put it in simpler terms: When the motor is spinning freely with no load it only needs a little bit of energy to maintain the rotation. When you "brake" the motor (which is essentially all you are doing when cutting/drilling/etc.) there is more energy needed to overcome this mechanical resistance.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Elem7 posted:

Do any pro-sumer lines even sell a 4x24 belt sander anymore aside from Makita?

I haven't been super impressed with the 3x21 sanders I've used either but while those all seem to be under $100 the jump to 4x24 is well over $200.

Nope. Porter Cable used to but I think they just make a 3x21 now, and it’s probably poo poo like the rest of Porter Cable’s stuff now. The Makita one is fantastic though.

Triton makes one, but they’re a little more specialty woodworking and not widely available. No idea if it’s any good though, I’ve never used any triton stuff.

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

forums poster

SEKCobra posted:

Or to put it in simpler terms: When the motor is spinning freely with no load it only needs a little bit of energy to maintain the rotation. When you "brake" the motor (which is essentially all you are doing when cutting/drilling/etc.) there is more energy needed to overcome this mechanical resistance.

The other part of this that I've maybe never fully understood: that means the motor has a speed it's always trying to run at, which is determined by some relationship between the windings and the voltage/frequency of the AC supply?

korora
Sep 3, 2011

SEKCobra posted:

Or to put it in simpler terms: When the motor is spinning freely with no load it only needs a little bit of energy to maintain the rotation. When you "brake" the motor (which is essentially all you are doing when cutting/drilling/etc.) there is more energy needed to overcome this mechanical resistance.

This is true but most power tools do not use closed loop speed control (with exceptions like the good track saws) so it doesn’t explain how the motor “knows” to increase current.

more falafel please posted:

The other part of this that I've maybe never fully understood: that means the motor has a speed it's always trying to run at, which is determined by some relationship between the windings and the voltage/frequency of the AC supply?

At equilibrium, the motor will run at a speed which depends on its input voltage and the external load. Supply frequency isn’t really important here - for tools with brushed motors, the brushes are what keep the magnetic field rotating at the right speed; brushless DC motors in battery tools instead measure the motor shaft angle and control the rotation of the magnetic field by varying the winding voltages.

BIG-DICK-BUTT-FUCK
Jan 26, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
Ugh I’m still confused lol. I really appreciate all the thorough responses but something about electrical stuff just perplexes me. I’ll have to sit down later and read through carefully and take notes

canyoneer
Sep 13, 2005


I only have canyoneyes for you
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DeWALT-DW735X-13-Inch-Two-Speed-Woodworking-Thickness-Planer-Tables-Knives-/401547510503

Pretty good deal, $500 for a the DeWalt planer I am told is The Good One

Bondematt
Jan 26, 2007

Not too stupid

735X is the king of benchtop planers. Absolutely love mine and highly recommend it. I paid $499 + tax in June 2020 for mine.

Keep in mind this is a hefty boy, like nearly 100lbs.

Mr. Yuk
Apr 1, 2005

In case of accidental ingestion, please consult a mortician.

Bondematt posted:

735X is the king of benchtop planers. Absolutely love mine and highly recommend it. I paid $499 + tax in June 2020 for mine.

Keep in mind this is a hefty boy, like nearly 100lbs.

I do not miss having to lift those things into the back of people's cars.

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

forums poster


With the infeed/outfeed tables that's a great deal. I think I paid 600 for mine in a bundle with the stand for it. I eventually built the requisite planer/Ridgid sander flip top cart, but the router table lives on the stand now, so it was worth it.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

Cyrano4747 posted:

Any strong opinions of wren belt sanders? The $40 corded ones at Home Depot.

Basic enthusiast / home grade bull poo poo I’m not opening a carpentry workshop or refinishing a ballroom. I’m resurfacing the top of a workbench so I’ll need to do a decent but not excessive amount of material removal. The old trusty rotary seems like it would be wholly insufficient to the task. Edit: especially since this is going to involve removing an embarrassing amount of epoxy accidents.

Alternatively any compelling reason to step up and drop $70 on the corded Ryobi?


Edit: I understand at $40 it’s probably going to be mediocre at best, just trying to figure out if it’s good enough for light duty mediocrity or if I’m a fool for not spending a bit more.

Bought the Ryobi.

Trip report:

https://youtube.com/shorts/5NPNBo7ukXc?feature=share

:kingsley:

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Owns

Blowjob Overtime
Apr 6, 2008

Steeeeriiiiiiiiike twooooooo!


Guess you should've bought two.

brugroffil
Nov 30, 2015



lmao

Literally A Person
Jan 1, 1970

Smugworth Wuz Here

Literally A Person posted:

Ryobi's corded belt sander is a trash tier tool. That said, given it's shape, it was easy as hell to clamp it to my workbench and use it as a stationary tool.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.




YOU LET THE MAGIC SMOKE OUT!

One of us! One of us! Gooble-gobble- One of us!

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!

Thanks for confirming my suspicions.

Let me know if they deny the return on the grounds of "you're not act actually supposed to sand anything with it."

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

stealie72
Jan 10, 2007
Lucky. Mine won't hold a belt long enough for me to run it long enough to catch fire.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply