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Cyrano4747 posted:Someone asked a similar question about storing dumb little things and here's what I use for some cleaning crap. Seems like it would work for those: Those stupid HD containers are so convenient. I have a pile of them that I use for different things, and one that I use for organizing bolts and nuts when I'm doing car work. Made it so much easier to finish complex jobs versus throwing every bolt into a single magnetic tray and hoping for the best.
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Sep 3, 2022 23:46
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Two questions on drill usage. 1. I have delicate computer toucher hands, not strong work-hardened builder hands. When I try to hold a screw to drive it with an impact driver, even on a low speed, the screw threads hurt my fingers and I can't hold it steady. What, besides the first sentence, am I doing wrong? 2. I foolishly used the mounting screws that came with two devices (why? Pure stupidity) and two of the Phillips heads thoroughly stripped, one per mount. If I ever get up the energy to remove them and reinstall, what's the name of the thingy I use to drill out the screw?
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Sep 4, 2022 00:12
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1. You shouldn't have to hold it. Buy https://www.lowes.com/pd/DEWALT-4-Pack-1-in-Magnetic-Screwdriving-Bit-Drive-Guide-Set/3031281 2. If you're using lovely screws, a drill is going to strip them far less than the impact driver. Also make sure you're predrilling with an appropriate sized drill. You are predrilling, right? That would also eliminate the need to guide the screw in 1. To back out a stripped screw, a screw extractor is the official tool, but jamming a piece of duct tape between the screw and the bit and pressing reasonably hard generally will get it.
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Sep 4, 2022 01:02
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Arsenic Lupin posted:Two questions on drill usage. 1. Ideally you just use your fingers to guide the screw point where you need it then you exert pressure via the tool to keep the screw in place and help it start to bite into the material. To help with that you can get drill bit holder/extensions with either a sleeve that extends to fit over a screw or a magnetic tip to give it extra holding power on the screw. All of this is easier and more accurate if you drill pilot holes first, good quality screws with self-tapping tips also help. 2. This is a whole big subject really but a few easy things that don't require buying anything are just moving to a bigger size bit, electrical or duct tape between the bit and screw, trying to pound in and use a torx or hex bit, drilling a small hole then trying a torx bit, or drilling all the way through if its a super crappy screw. Past that there's a bunch of stuff you can buy, ez-out style extractors or impact extractor screwdrivers aren't to expensive and for light duty stuff like you're describing work pretty well. Blackhawk posted:I'm not a tool person but is Ryobi's QC known to be insanely trash-tier? I bought their base drill + battery combo recently to do extremely occasional house stuff and the charger only worked intermittently right out of the box. At the same time I got their cheapest little cordless lawnmower to do our tiny patch of grass and the second time I used it the battery just completely died and stopped even showing state of charge lights. The place I got it from just gave me a new battery, but I didn't expect to have so many crib-death issues, you'd expect them to crap out a day after the warranty ends at least. I think the general consensus for years has been that they're perfectly fine for home-owner or even very light professional duty. Just another anecdote but I personally haven't had any of my Ryobi tools going back to 2011 outright fail on me and have only had 2 of the crappy 1.5ah die. The first Ryobi lithium battery I ever bought, a 3ah that came with a trimmer, still works 11 years later. I've even let a little smoke out of 2 drills and they still work fine. Nowadays I buy Makita if I feel like its something I'll use more than a few times but I do still buy Ryobi tools if there's a good deal or its something I don't feel like I'll use enough to justify an extra $100+ for the Makita.
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Sep 4, 2022 01:18
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Corded ryobi is trash, cordless is good for serious homeowner work
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Sep 4, 2022 01:30
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I have a Ryobi corded bench top belt/disk sander and it's fine. Dust collection could be better, and the table isn't great, but the motorized components seem totally fine. I have a bunch of cordless stuff, because I'm cheap. L
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Sep 4, 2022 02:42
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Elem7 posted:To help with that you can get drill bit holder/extensions with either a sleeve that extends to fit over a screw or a magnetic tip to give it extra holding power on the screw. I would be drilling pilot holes a lot more often, except that many of my walls won't yield to anything other than an impact driver.
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Sep 4, 2022 02:49
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more falafel please posted:I have a Ryobi corded bench top belt/disk sander and it's fine. Dust collection could be better, and the table isn't great, but the motorized components seem totally fine. You know by saying this out loud you have cursed your tool?
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Sep 4, 2022 02:54
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Arsenic Lupin posted:What is the name of the first thing? https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-MAX-IMPACT-1-4-in-Impact-Rated-Torsion-Drive-Guide-Bit-Holder-DWATIRDGMI/309268522 'Screw guide' seems to be the best search term.
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Sep 4, 2022 03:01
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Literally A Person posted:You know by saying this out loud you have cursed your tool? It was like $75 from Direct Tools Outlet and I've gotten a lot of good use out of it. If it dies, it dies.
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Sep 4, 2022 03:02
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I had tons of cordless Ryobi poo poo before my house burned down and my insurance company replaced all the unidentifiable plastic slag with Milwaukee tools. I had them for years, did lots of pretty serious home renovations and repairs, and I don't think I ever had a real failure. Doesn't mean they aren't trash, just adding another data point to the pile.
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Sep 4, 2022 03:03
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Other Ryobi corded tools I have/have had: - ROS: fine. cheap. Got a cordless Makita and I like the ergonomics and dust collection better. - Router: fine for what it is, I guess? It's a 3.5" router that only has a 1/4" collet, which limits its utility. More powerful than a trim router, but not as powerful as something you'd want for serious router table work, and it doesn't have a plunge base (they make a plunge router, but they're not cross-compatible). Ended up getting a Bosch 1617 for the router table and a cordless Makita trim router for handheld work. - Table saw: literally should be illegal. I don't know if it's possible to make a cut safely on that thing, but I never made a cut that felt safe. - 10" non-sliding miter saw: first real "woodworking" tool, it's lasted me 10 years so far. It's fine, I'll probably get something better soon. It was $90 and I've made thousands of cuts on it. - Circular saw: old blue one. Fine. I replaced it because the blade guard didn't fit the Kreg rip-cut/accucut guide I bought. Cordless, I have the drill/impact driver, brad nailer, corner cat sander, recip saw, Dustbuster, job site fan, Bluetooth speaker. No complaints. I guess the drill and driver aren't the best for ergonomics, but I'm a weekend warrior so it's fine.
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Sep 4, 2022 03:15
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Guyver posted:To make you buy the sets. Pretty sure you can buy the rubber holders on Amazon. Search for drill bit holders, you'll find those little rubber holders, plus some slightly larger magnetic ones (though the magnetic ones may not work so great for those nut drivers). Actually I've got a magnetic one in the shop now that I haven't used, I should throw some nut drivers in it and see what happens.
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Sep 4, 2022 04:33
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melon cat posted:Storage question. I keep losing my nut driver bits because literally no tool set comes with its own box or holder: https://youtu.be/Yjoa1FsgQFE This is good for fitting in a shallow drawer like in a standup toolbox. Get one of the cheap packs of the big EVA foam puzzle mats from Harbor Freight (PBUHF), a thin layer of a bright contrasting color of foam or felt, glue, exacto knife, and a sharpie. Lay them out in a space efficient way that makes sense on the thick foam, trace them, cut them out, check the fit and adjust as needed, glue to contrasting foam or felt to the bottom, done. Or do what my father in law does for every drill bit in his shop and cut a length of some scrap dimensional lumber to the right height/width and drill a hole for every bit to live in.
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Sep 4, 2022 05:05
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Arsenic Lupin posted:I would be drilling pilot holes a lot more often, except that many of my walls won't yield to anything other than an impact driver. Would bits that can be used in the impact driver help? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-SHOCKWAVE-Impact-Duty-Titanium-Drill-Bit-Set-15-Piece-48-89-4630/205879023
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Sep 4, 2022 15:23
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Hot drat, and thank you.
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Sep 4, 2022 16:18
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Mr. Mambold posted:Can't you rent a diamond concrete saw? i have to cut concrete like half a dozen times a year, so not quite enough to invest in a decent concrete saw but enough to where the time & expense associated w rentals are making me consider alternatives. the advantage of a grinder over a circ saw w diamond blade or even lower end electric concrete saw is versatility and ease of use, hence my interest a buddy of mine has a 9" grinder he's gonna let me borrow to cut a couple of footers so we'll see how it goes
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Sep 4, 2022 16:47
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Arsenic Lupin posted:What is the name of the first thing? i think they're called "impact drive guides" and they are very useful. pull the sleeve out, put the screw in, and it'll keep from falling out   Milwaukee makes (made?) a set of 12 bits with the drive guide for $10 that's quite good, but really any brand will likely do the trick  https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-SHOCKWAVE-Impact-Drive-Guide/dp/B009NXQQQM
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Sep 4, 2022 16:54
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BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:i have to cut concrete like half a dozen times a year, so not quite enough to invest in a decent concrete saw but enough to where the time & expense associated w rentals are making me consider alternatives. the advantage of a grinder over a circ saw w diamond blade or even lower end electric concrete saw is versatility and ease of use, hence my interest I hear Craigslist calling....
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Sep 5, 2022 16:05
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Speaking of those type of impact driver guides, I was just installing some roofing that uses 3" screws with a hex head that nicely fits into those bit holders. Unfortunately the dewalt driver set I have came with one of those impact drive guides but not a standard one without the outer sheath. I just learned the hard way that those drive guides have much thinner walls. Some of these screws have thicker paint than others so they don't fit all the way into the driver and those just tore the poo poo out of the walls of the drive guide and basically stripped it. I had to go dig out one of my older guides without the sheath which has much thicker walls and can actually stand up to driving screws directly rather than using a bit. Probably not ideal to do in the long term, I think it still got torn up a bit but fortunately I wasn't driving hundreds of screws or anything so it survived mostly in tact.
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Sep 5, 2022 16:35
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What kind of ruler/tape measure is this? It's some sort of stacked tape measure. Never seen a tool like this.
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Sep 5, 2022 21:34
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Collapsible/foldable yardstick/meter rule. Great for smashing your fingers as a child.
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Sep 5, 2022 21:36
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melon cat posted:What kind of ruler/tape measure is this? That is a folding rule. It's a thing that's been around since before tape measures.
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Sep 5, 2022 21:37
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I've always felt that that was the "extendable tape measure before there were extendable tape measures". In other words, you know that steel tape that to pull out to measure poo poo and then it retracts in to that small little case that you clip on to your tool bag/belt? Thats your grand-dad's version. E: Every now and then I still see people using surveying "sticks" in that style. I don't envy them. wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 21:42 on Sep 5, 2022 |
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Sep 5, 2022 21:40
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It was what everyone used to measure stuff before we had the materials technology for flexible metal tapes. I still use one because it makes a more useful scale than a measuring tape when taking photos of dirt and rocks inside of pits.
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Sep 5, 2022 21:41
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Ambassadorofsodomy posted:E: Every now and then I still see people using surveying "sticks" in that style. I don't envy them. Those are leveling rods, and are designed to be read accurately through a fancy self-leveling telescope from far away. You can’t substitute one of these without losing your license.
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Sep 5, 2022 21:46
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withak posted:Those are leveling rods, and are designed to be read accurately through a fancy self-leveling telescope from far away. You can’t substitute one of these without losing your license. They're a lot more heavy and awkward than the aluminum ones with pieces that nest inside each other.
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Sep 5, 2022 22:39
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Some kind of tradesperson moved in across the street from my mom recently, and today while visiting I watched his 5 year old son with a Milwaukee oscillating tool and a corner sanding attachment just going hog wild on a log. That kid is either gonna be a master tradesman or have zero fingers by the time he's 17.
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Sep 5, 2022 23:08
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FISHMANPET posted:Some kind of tradesperson moved in across the street from my mom recently, and today while visiting I watched his 5 year old son with a Milwaukee oscillating tool and a corner sanding attachment just going hog wild on a log. That kid is either gonna be a master tradesman or have zero fingers by the time he's 17. There are a lot worse ways a kid could spend a day.
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Sep 5, 2022 23:27
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Yeah the oscillating tool is probably the safest power tool. Considering it's not so humble beginnings.
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Sep 5, 2022 23:39
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withak posted:It was what everyone used to measure stuff before we had the materials technology for flexible metal tapes. I still use one because it makes a more useful scale than a measuring tape when taking photos of dirt and rocks inside of pits. Great for measuring conduit runs and other piping too, I see electricians using them still
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Sep 6, 2022 02:48
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FISHMANPET posted:Some kind of tradesperson moved in across the street from my mom recently, and today while visiting I watched his 5 year old son with a Milwaukee oscillating tool and a corner sanding attachment just going hog wild on a log. That kid is either gonna be a master tradesman or have zero fingers by the time he's 17. Start em young 
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Sep 6, 2022 02:52
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withak posted:It was what everyone used to measure stuff before we had the materials technology for flexible metal tapes. I still use one because it makes a more useful scale than a measuring tape when taking photos of dirt and rocks inside of pits. The thrill of a fresh plastic metric folding rule from forestry suppliers...
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Sep 6, 2022 03:08
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slurm posted:The thrill of a fresh plastic metric folding rule from forestry suppliers... I loved getting my orange field book on my first day of archaeology field school. Felt so official. Also the folding rule, line level and pointing trowel. But it was the book that really did it for me.
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Sep 6, 2022 03:34
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BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:Great for measuring conduit runs and other piping too, I see electricians using them still Also great for reaching inconveniently placed disconnect switches, a semi straight straight edge for eyeballing sheave alignment, and with a screw in the end it makes an ok filter hook, or a magnet for object retrieval.
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Sep 6, 2022 04:55
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Ambassadorofsodomy posted:I've always felt that that was the "extendable tape measure before there were extendable tape measures". Speaking of granddad tools, I bought a few neat ones this weekend for a cool  each at a swap meet.The first is a steel extendable tape measure that manually winds back into a circular leather wrapped steel case. The measurements and numbers are stamped onto the tape, and you wind it up with a teeny little reel like chalk lines use. No idea how old it is, but I'd guess it's pre-WWII because the spring wound auto retracting ones became ubiquitous mid-century. In addition to being really cool, it serves a practical purpose because it is 100 feet and I think all my modern tape measures top out at 25 feet. The other is a "Yankee style" push screwdriver made by Craftsman in West Germany sometime in the 1950's. Got 3 bits with it, and an internet search indicates it probably came with 7. The other good news is that Lee Valley sells an adapter for that weird round barbed shank that accepts modern standard hex driver bits. The grandpa selling it has a bunch of cool old vintage tools and loved to talk about them. He said that he's heard of a little revival for that tool in selling them to door installers, "because you can hand it to an apprentice and it forces them to go slow rather than booger a $2,000 door in a half second with an impact driver". Last one is a 12" Made in Japan Craftsman pipe wrench, probably made in the 70's. This was the first one I bought that day, and I feel a little silly that I didn't notice the knurled adjustment knob appears to be a modern aluminum replacement rather than original to the tool. Oh well, I still like it. I'll put up some pictures when I get a chance to take some good ones
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Sep 6, 2022 05:03
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BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:Great for measuring conduit runs and other piping too, I see electricians using them still It's a safety hazard to use a metal tape, exposed bus and the whole phantom transformer winding thing means they're not allowed a lot of places.
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Sep 6, 2022 17:52
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withak posted:It was what everyone used to measure stuff before we had the materials technology for flexible metal tapes. I still use one because it makes a more useful scale than a measuring tape when taking photos of dirt and rocks inside of pits. I had a chance to grab one cheap at an estate sale a few years ago, and next time I had a post hole digger in hand, I was kicking myself. canyoneer posted:Speaking of granddad tools, I bought a few neat ones this weekend for a cool Yankees were the original cordless screwdriver. I've still got one of those out of nostalgia, but it's a plastic handle. Mr. Mambold fucked around with this message at 18:56 on Sep 6, 2022 |
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Sep 6, 2022 18:54
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melon cat posted:I like it. I do need to be able to bring it around while keeping a small footprint so this is the route I am going I use canvas pencil cases. Cost about .99 cents at Walmart…
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Sep 6, 2022 19:44
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canyoneer posted:Speaking of granddad tools, I bought a few neat ones this weekend for a cool Screwdriver retracted  Extended with push-drive action!  When retracted, it can be used as a traditional ratcheting screwdriver (both ways) or locked in non-ratcheting. When extended, it can be used as a push drill/driver driving clockwise or counterclockwise. It's a heavy little fella, whole thing weighs probably 2 lbs and is 12 inches long (retracted) without the bit and the push-drill extension adds another 5 inches. Not using this one for automotive or under-cabinet work. It is highly recommended if you are a Blues Brother on the lam and need to quickly remove an elevator panel https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2quc-iQ96R0 I'm going to pick up one of the adapters to use it with modern standard 1/4" hex shank bits. Having a hard time dating this tape measure. Lufkin tools was started in 1868, and the "Challenge" model was introduced in ~1914. The model name is still used by Lufkin, though the company was sold in 1967 to Cooper Industries and the hand tools portion was later spun off to Apex Tool Group in 2010 (parent company of Gearwrench and Crescent). The pre-war catalog photos show the "CHALLENGE" model name on the front side of the case, not on the back. I did also find an extremely  trademark application for the arched text "CHALLENGE" logo from 1945. ORIGINAL TRADEMARK DO NOT STEAL They renewed that peach of a trademark two times until it expired in 2007. I found a catalog price sheet from the 50's with an MSRP set at $25 for the 100 foot model, or $276 in 2022 dollars  Because it was so expensive, I imagine this was purchased back in the day by a serious craftsman who took really great care of it. Or maybe a dentist weekend warrior to whom price was no object. I'm guessing it dates to somewhere between 1947 and the early 60's. The revolutionary Stanley PowerLock tape measure was introduced in 1963 and quickly replaced all of the circular case reel style ones. It was also good enough to go up to the moon on Apollo 11     It's pretty neat. The measurement starts from the end of the pull ring, and all the numbers are stamped into the tape. I was at the flea market with my in-laws, and they both commented that they remember their farmer dads and granddads using tape measures like this (either steel or canvas tape).
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Sep 6, 2022 19:52
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