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AFewBricksShy posted:I've got an old patio set (Hampton Bay) that I got at the depot about 10+ years ago. If it were mine I'd go the $60 option for the DIY slings and rattle can that poo poo. Worst case scenario you've spent like ~$75 on slings and paint and can have it powder coated and re-slung by someone who knows what they're doing.
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# ? Aug 31, 2022 20:13 |
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# ? May 30, 2024 12:05 |
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Cyrano4747 posted:If it were mine I'd go the $60 option for the DIY slings and rattle can that poo poo. I was actually planning on trying spray paint this weekend, but I didn’t think about ordering the sling and just doing the fatty chair as a one off mock-up. I like it. You’re the best.
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# ? Aug 31, 2022 21:39 |
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Yeah I remember helping my dad hit some patio furniture with Rust-Oleum in high school, that poo poo lasted like 12 more years after that before they got rid of it
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# ? Sep 1, 2022 00:07 |
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I'm wanting to put up a wall-mounted work desk in a small office room, covering 3 walls with no legs, like so: My first thought was to just throw up horizontal battens along the walls and brace up the mid sections and inside corners with big L brackets, but looking up materials I see that standard 38mm laminate countertop would come to nearly 100kg, and as noted above two of the walls I'm working with are studless plasterboard. I could try to reduce the weight by going thinner on the table material, but too thin and it'll start bowing when we actually try to use it (plus I don't think anything is going to run less than 50kg for a desk this big). First question is: how much am I overthinking this? Would thick battens attached with enough molly screws spread the weight enough that the drywall will hold it? Or do I need to be looking at putting some kind of legs down at least on those two sides to transmit the weight straight to the floor? e/ I did also think about trying to put together some kind of steel frame out of box section or T bar, supported on legs sitting right up against the wall, and then laying down a thinner desk material on top; the issue with that is I can't weld and don't have a good idea of how to construct something acceptably stiff with just bolted-together square section tubes Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 17:52 on Sep 1, 2022 |
# ? Sep 1, 2022 07:36 |
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You're absolutely going to want it supported by tying in to structure of some sort. You need to account for not only the weight of the desk, but the weight of any items someone might put on the desk, which includes human bodies. If there's no structure in the wall then you'll have to build structure to put the desktop on by adding legs.
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# ? Sep 1, 2022 19:56 |
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You could put some sheets of plywood or similar flat up against the walls to carry the load instead. Rest the desktop on the top edge of those.
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# ? Sep 1, 2022 21:47 |
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PremiumSupport posted:You're absolutely going to want it supported by tying in to structure of some sort. You need to account for not only the weight of the desk, but the weight of any items someone might put on the desk, which includes human bodies. If there's no structure in the wall then you'll have to build structure to put the desktop on by adding legs. Had another look and managed to find a metal shop that fabricates things like this: which should be able to transmit the majority of the vertical load to the floor and just use the wall for stability while keeping the leg far enough back to not stub my toes on. Don't expect it'll be cheap, but ah well. e/ gently caress that I had a better idea batten along the far wall (which is brick), two custom steel table frames resting on top of it with regular legs at the other end by the door. Then cut the countertop pieces the other way on so the sideways piece is fully supported. Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 22:39 on Sep 1, 2022 |
# ? Sep 1, 2022 22:02 |
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I threw up a heavy French cleat on two walls, and used a cut-down railing to support the floating corner. I takes a bit of trial & error to get the length & angle right, but it's held for the past 18-years. Did the same setup in my kitchen for the (floating) short side of my ell countertop
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# ? Sep 2, 2022 03:02 |
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I need help with baby’s first faucet fix. The one handle is leaking water, where this right handed stem sits. It’s a cheap Pfister 048DKOO, seems like Home Depot Carrie’s replacement parts, I’m just not sure exactly what I have to replace or if I should swap all those parts. I should know what to do but my comfort zone is just ripping the whole thing out and replacing it with a somewhat better quality faucet. Even using the left hand stem causes the right hand one to leak. (And yeah this is getting a barkeepers friend scrub while the handles are off.) The Dave fucked around with this message at 19:21 on Sep 2, 2022 |
# ? Sep 2, 2022 11:50 |
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Admiral Joeslop posted:
Other goons went over the stranded vs solid wire issue, but it seems no one has pointed out you looped the wire the wrong way. You want to go "with" to direction the screw turns (i.e. clockwise) so hook the wire around this way: See how, especially on the top terminal, the wire looks like it got "pushed" out by the screw? That's why. If you hook it going clockwise, that won't happen.
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# ? Sep 2, 2022 16:04 |
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DrBouvenstein posted:See how, especially on the top terminal, the wire looks like it got "pushed" out by the screw? That's why. If you hook it going clockwise, that won't happen. This is a crucial, massive amounts of frustration saving, top tip.
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# ? Sep 2, 2022 17:08 |
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I feel super stupid I didn't even notice the hooks were the wrong way. I was busy looking for how badly mashed the stranded wire got vs. how loose it must be to not have gotten mashed.
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# ? Sep 2, 2022 18:53 |
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Leperflesh posted:I feel super stupid I didn't even notice the hooks were the wrong way. I was busy looking for how badly mashed the stranded wire got vs. how loose it must be to not have gotten mashed. https://twitter.com/alwayssunny/status/1415797138240331776
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# ? Sep 2, 2022 19:16 |
Luckily, I learned that tip about curving the wires with the screws on my own research
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# ? Sep 2, 2022 20:58 |
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I'm thinking of getting a portable garage/carport for my backyard to store pallets of wood pellets and maybe my snowblower. BUT the ideal spot is a patch of asphalt behind my garage. What would be the best method to attach it to the asphalt so high winds don't blow it away?
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# ? Sep 3, 2022 19:29 |
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DrBouvenstein posted:I'm thinking of getting a portable garage/carport for my backyard to store pallets of wood pellets and maybe my snowblower. That's the kind of thing that is specified in the cut sheet of the carport and depends on its design and your max winds. It's typically going to be some size and amount of stakes/ground anchors in a specific arrangement, probably attached to specifically designed points on the structure. So start looking for the install manuals of the ones your interested in.
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# ? Sep 3, 2022 19:36 |
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We have a hole that developed between the asphalt driveway and garage cement. What is the proper way to fill and patch this to not have it be a recurring issue? We had some low spots along that seam before the driveway got re-done a couple of years ago, so it's a known problem area. Pictures with size 10.5 Asics for scale:
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# ? Sep 3, 2022 19:56 |
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hello, thread, because i have a lot of musical instruments and wood items scattered around, i am looking to humidify my ~2000 ft^2 home. the biggest challenge is i rent this home, so i cannot do something more elaborate and probably better with the hvac system. any recommendations on industrial-like humidifiers? ideally it could tap into the water system somehow so i don't have to refill it constantly. i've only briefly looked on the internet as i'm well out of my element with this kind of thing and am not really understanding what i'm looking at for most of it. any direction would be greatly appreciated! and i'm more than happy to supply any further info. just let me know.
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# ? Sep 3, 2022 20:18 |
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abelwingnut posted:hello, thread, a console-style humdifier is probably the right solution-- they're designed to do large spaces and have sizable tanks so you won't have to fill it as often. like so https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I9YFXSS
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# ? Sep 3, 2022 22:09 |
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Blowjob Overtime posted:We have a hole that developed between the asphalt driveway and garage cement. What is the proper way to fill and patch this to not have it be a recurring issue? We had some low spots along that seam before the driveway got re-done a couple of years ago, so it's a known problem area. That looks like water erosion. What is causing the cavity and what mitigation was put in place when the driveway was redone? If the answer is "nothing" then you might be in for an adventure here. Water will find a way, so if that is a common flow point for water and there isn't a few inches of gravel being cleverly hidden by dirt there you probably need that or a French drain. Diverting the water at its source is another option but it flowing across your driveway is presumably a pretty ideal spot compared to say inside the garage.
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# ? Sep 3, 2022 22:18 |
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H110Hawk posted:That looks like water erosion. What is causing the cavity and what mitigation was put in place when the driveway was redone? If the answer is "nothing" then you might be in for an adventure here. We're built on a hill sloping away from the garage and that spot is under an overhang with gutters, so to my knowledge it doesn't usually get a lot of water. That said, between being on a hill and other parts of the house not being thought out in terms of water mitigation (downspout dumping water at the highest point surrounding the house, for example), I assume water can get pretty much anywhere. Here's the side profile of where the hole is (ignore the bathroom remodel debris on the porch and oil slick from frying fish outside): RE: mitigation when the driveway was redone - at that point the worst of it was a sunken spot in the asphalt about six inches across and an inch or two down, not anything near as bad as an open hole. Based on the location of the house that lip between the garage and driveway *should* be the highest point on the driveway. I wonder if there is now a short section of driveway that slightly slopes toward the house now that didn't exist before. If so, is there a way to add height near the garage that's easier than doing a French drain? It seems like the right way to address it is add asphalt from the entire width of that seam making sure that it's the highest point and slopes away from the house.
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# ? Sep 3, 2022 22:56 |
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Is there an irrigation pipe that takes water from one side of the driveway to the other? I'd guess that's the culprit.
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# ? Sep 3, 2022 23:33 |
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Xenix posted:Is there an irrigation pipe that takes water from one side of the driveway to the other? I'd guess that's the culprit. Nothing under the driveway, no. That is the one spot on the exterior that doesn't have basement under it, so no other pipes to be leaking from below.
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# ? Sep 4, 2022 02:48 |
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abelwingnut posted:hello, thread, Depending on the construction of the home and your climate, it might not be worth bothering. Keeping humidity up to an acoustic guitar's 50%RH ideal in even a closet in our old stone-construction home is a Sisyphean challenge in winter, but hard cases and Humidipaks have no problem whatsoever.
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# ? Sep 4, 2022 21:08 |
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tetrapyloctomy posted:Depending on the construction of the home and your climate, it might not be worth bothering. Keeping humidity up to an acoustic guitar's 50%RH ideal in even a closet in our old stone-construction home is a Sisyphean challenge in winter, but hard cases and Humidipaks have no problem whatsoever. Maybe did a root cellar...depending on soils & geology. I bought a guitar from a luthier in Barcelona who stored his wares in an old wine cellar deep under his shop.
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# ? Sep 4, 2022 22:21 |
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Motronic posted:That's the kind of thing that is specified in the cut sheet of the carport and depends on its design and your max winds. It's typically going to be some size and amount of stakes/ground anchors in a specific arrangement, probably attached to specifically designed points on the structure. Thanks, I'll start looking and reading. Unrelated ...I'm having trouble searching if this product I'd like even exists. I want an LEd bulb for a 3 way lamp where, instead of each "click" being a change in brightness, is a change in temperature? So the two LED circuits it powers are like a 2700K set, a 4000K set, and then the third position is both so somewhere in the 3000K, and obviously each step would ideally be about the same brightness. I know I can do that with smart bulbs or even "dumb but have a remote to change them" bulbs but I don't have a smart home and not enthralled by the idea. I did before and half the time I found it more a pain in the rear end to get my phone to change the lights or try voice commands it kept getting wrong...also getting more paranoid about data collection and electronic spying crap.
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# ? Sep 5, 2022 00:57 |
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Have you tried the "growing cannabis made fun and easy" thread in TCC? Because that's where you should probably ask. You know, if it's for weed.
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# ? Sep 5, 2022 01:11 |
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CRUSTY MINGE posted:Have you tried the "growing cannabis made fun and easy" thread in TCC? Because that's where you should probably ask. You know, if it's for weed. It's not. It's literally because I prefer cool lighting on the in living room floor lamp, girlfriend prefers warm, so this way we can each have what we want when we're the one in there alone, and compromise when we're there together. Like I said, I know smart bulbs do this job amazingly but trying to avoid those. However, I'll ask in there anyway, then, if it's full of lighting experts.
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# ? Sep 5, 2022 01:23 |
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Someone in there might have an idea what you're looking for, yes. Maybe. LEDs are all the rage for growing and those spectrums are commonly used for growing. I thought you were just being coy about weed because you listed color temps instead of generic "soft" or "cool" or however they advertise household lamps.
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# ? Sep 5, 2022 01:41 |
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Not a situation I have any experience in but I feel like that would drive me crazy hopping between two temperatures versus getting used to one.
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# ? Sep 5, 2022 02:07 |
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PainterofCrap posted:Maybe did a root cellar...depending on soils & geology. I bought a guitar from a luthier in Barcelona who stored his wares in an old wine cellar deep under his shop. If we ever add on to the house I'll have a room somewhere with an honest-to-God moisture barrier and I'll make a climate-controlled music room. Until then, hard cases and Humidipaks.
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# ? Sep 5, 2022 13:32 |
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DrBouvenstein posted:Thanks, I'll start looking and reading. Look for "CCT LED" bulbs. Luxrite 5/6 Inch LED Recessed Retrofit Downlight, 14W=90W, CCT Color Selectable 2700K | 3000K | 3500K | 4000K | 5000K, Dimmable Can Light, 1100 Lumens, Wet Rated, Energy Star, Smooth Trim (4 Pack) https://a.co/d/1qqs2GF
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# ? Sep 5, 2022 14:42 |
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First new house fix done. Corrected a mis-wired three way switch. Feeling cute may do some drywall patching later.
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# ? Sep 5, 2022 20:34 |
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Has anyone tried making carbon fiber stuff either wet lay-up or resin infusion? Is it possible to make larger parts out of smaller sheets or strips without it looking like rear end and being non-functional, or is a single large sheet the only way? E.g. if I wanted a CF trunk lid that's, say, 1m2, does the sheet have to be at least that large, or overlaying smaller sheets could work ok? Most of the videos I've seen use huge CF rolls because they're by pro shops so they have all the good stuff of course.
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# ? Sep 7, 2022 16:30 |
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One of the insulation strips on my refrigerator door has started to peel away from the gasket and is now basically hanging by a thread: The fridge is barely a year old and I'm irritated. Is it possible to replace this piece without having to do the entire gasket around the door, which is more than I'm willing to do right now? Alternately, is there any harm in just peeling it off the rest of the way so it's not just dangling there, slightly exposing the black anti-frost element behind it? I can't imagine the amount of heat put out by those poses any risk to anything.
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# ? Sep 7, 2022 20:55 |
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Nobody is likely to be able to answer this question without the model number/some indication of what brand and style of fridge it is. Also, is it still under warranty?
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# ? Sep 7, 2022 21:14 |
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Motronic posted:Nobody is likely to be able to answer this question without the model number/some indication of what brand and style of fridge it is. Model is Whirlpool WRF555SDFZ12, french door bottom freezer. Unfortunately no longer under warranty.
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# ? Sep 7, 2022 22:10 |
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The Midniter posted:Model is Whirlpool WRF555SDFZ12, french door bottom freezer. Unfortunately no longer under warranty. I don't see anything that isn't the door gasket, so it's all one piece unless I'm missing something: https://www.reliableparts.com/lookup/307341/2324792#diagram It's a $2500 refrigerator that is "barely" 1 year old that has a 1 year warranty on it. I'd call them. And blast them on social media if that doesn't work. Because peeling apart the door gasket (more) isn't a good plan.
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# ? Sep 7, 2022 22:57 |
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I've got a 40v Ryobi battery that will only charge halfway. It seems to be charging normally, but the charger just stops at the halfway mark. My other battery charges normally, so it doesn't appear to be the charger's issue. It's 4 years old, so out of warranty. Is this behavior most likely a bad cell, or a bad circuit board? Is it worth trying to fix for someone with access to a multimeter and soldering iron, but absolutely no relevant battery experience?
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# ? Sep 7, 2022 23:58 |
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# ? May 30, 2024 12:05 |
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The Dave posted:I need help with baby’s first faucet fix. The one handle is leaking water, where this right handed stem sits. It’s a cheap Pfister 048DKOO, seems like Home Depot Carrie’s replacement parts, I’m just not sure exactly what I have to replace or if I should swap all those parts. Nobody addressed this, so I'll take a stab. That style of faucet uses cartridges. If you turn off the water supply, you can just use a wrench on those big nuts and the entire stem and all will come out, and can be replaced. Likely the packing in one or both has gone brittle and lost chunks, causing your leaks. I just replaced both of mine in a Price-Pfister faucet. Had to go to Ace Hardware to get the parts, and pay a bit, but still less than $20-30 for the pair as I recall. If it's a builder-grade special, HD and Lowes will probably have them.
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# ? Sep 8, 2022 00:08 |