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Immolat1on
Sep 9, 2005

Just the kind of advice I didn't know I was looking for. Even from just using brushes I'm familiar with every bottle of paint having its own unique thickness. Definitely won't be expecting perfection on my first model and will practice on plastic cutlery even before then. My compressor gets here right before I go on vacation for a week but oh well. Everything will be set up and waiting for when I get back, and then I'm gonna spray billions and trillions of tiny droplets of paint.

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HopperUK
Apr 29, 2007

Why would an ambulance be leaving the hospital?
I converted one of those cute little DIY mini house kits because I've been watching What We Do in the Shadows lately and I'm pleased with how it turned out so far. Have ordered some LEDs and batteries to see about lighting. Best bit: spattering red ink on floor. Worst bit: dropping tin of tiny leaves on my own floor and having to clean that up.

Excuse horrendous lighting, it's late


Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

HopperUK posted:

I converted one of those cute little DIY mini house kits because I've been watching What We Do in the Shadows lately and I'm pleased with how it turned out so far. Have ordered some LEDs and batteries to see about lighting. Best bit: spattering red ink on floor. Worst bit: dropping tin of tiny leaves on my own floor and having to clean that up.

Excuse horrendous lighting, it's late



Awesome, but it needs more racoons.

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




Slugworth posted:

Awesome, but it needs more racoons.

Oh yes! A little raccoon or possum peeking out from under the desk would be amazing!

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.

HopperUK posted:

I converted one of those cute little DIY mini house kits because I've been watching What We Do in the Shadows lately and I'm pleased with how it turned out so far. Have ordered some LEDs and batteries to see about lighting. Best bit: spattering red ink on floor. Worst bit: dropping tin of tiny leaves on my own floor and having to clean that up.

Excuse horrendous lighting, it's late




If you're feeling really adventurous, one of the easy ways to customize things further would be to snip the lines on the bass and replace them with fishing line. Glue it down with matte Mod Podge or local equivalent and nobody'll be able to see the adhesive.

Tell me about your leaves, they look good and I'm in need of something similar.

HopperUK
Apr 29, 2007

Why would an ambulance be leaving the hospital?

grassy gnoll posted:

If you're feeling really adventurous, one of the easy ways to customize things further would be to snip the lines on the bass and replace them with fishing line. Glue it down with matte Mod Podge or local equivalent and nobody'll be able to see the adhesive.

Tell me about your leaves, they look good and I'm in need of something similar.

Raccoon advice taken! thanks goons

I got em from Amazon, they are this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0B4CC3P8L

Beware, the can opens but does not close again, you'll need something to dump the leaves into.

tidal wave emulator
Aug 7, 2007

You can also get leaf punches like this, just supply your own full-sized leaves


https://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/inicio/310-miniature-leaf-punch-punches.html

HopperUK
Apr 29, 2007

Why would an ambulance be leaving the hospital?

tidal wave emulator posted:

You can also get leaf punches like this, just supply your own full-sized leaves


https://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/inicio/310-miniature-leaf-punch-punches.html

That's cute as hell but it feels like that would involve me going outside.

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

HopperUK posted:

That's cute as hell but it feels like that would involve me going outside.

It's almost fall. If you're home is like mine, the wind will just blow a fuckton of leaves right to your garage door.

Otherwise, open the window, remove the screens, and let your forest friends do the work for you.

Charliegrs
Aug 10, 2009
While I was working on the Lamborghini Miura I was also working on a Tamiya Nissan Skyline R32 Nismo Edition and now I'm finally finished with it. I'm pretty happy with it. It's a very pleasant kit to build but that's pretty much the norm with Tamiya kits.














Boaz MacPhereson
Jul 11, 2006

Day 12045 Ht10hands 180lbs
No Name
No lumps No Bumps Full life Clean
Two good eyes No Busted Limbs
Piss OK Genitals intact
Multiple scars Heals fast
O NEGATIVE HI OCTANE
UNIVERSAL DONOR
Lone Road Warrior Rundown
on the Powder Lakes V8
No guzzoline No supplies
ISOLATE PSYCHOTIC
Keep muzzled...

Charliegrs posted:

While I was working on the Lamborghini Miura I was also working on a Tamiya Nissan Skyline R32 Nismo Edition and now I'm finally finished with it. I'm pretty happy with it. It's a very pleasant kit to build but that's pretty much the norm with Tamiya kits.
















That's a great kit and yours turned out beautiful. Looks like a really similar color to what I did mine in as well.

Charliegrs
Aug 10, 2009

Boaz MacPhereson posted:

That's a great kit and yours turned out beautiful. Looks like a really similar color to what I did mine in as well.

Thanks 👍 Yeah it's a nice color it's Tamiya Mica Red from a spraycan. I sprayed it over white primer and I think that's how it get that somewhat orangey shade of red.

Next up is the R32s great grandfather the 69 Skyline 2000 GT-R.

I want to do a model for every generation of Skyline. It's probably as close as I'll ever get to owning one.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

That looks great too. I didn’t know the Skyline models were so detailed, but you sure bring them out.

Boaz MacPhereson
Jul 11, 2006

Day 12045 Ht10hands 180lbs
No Name
No lumps No Bumps Full life Clean
Two good eyes No Busted Limbs
Piss OK Genitals intact
Multiple scars Heals fast
O NEGATIVE HI OCTANE
UNIVERSAL DONOR
Lone Road Warrior Rundown
on the Powder Lakes V8
No guzzoline No supplies
ISOLATE PSYCHOTIC
Keep muzzled...

Charliegrs posted:

Thanks 👍 Yeah it's a nice color it's Tamiya Mica Red from a spraycan. I sprayed it over white primer and I think that's how it get that somewhat orangey shade of red.

Next up is the R32s great grandfather the 69 Skyline 2000 GT-R.

I want to do a model for every generation of Skyline. It's probably as close as I'll ever get to owning one.

That's a great kit too. I did the 'stock' version with the steel wheels and I'm pretty sure yours is the same kit with just a couple extra pieces. My R32 didn't come out nearly as nice as yours but I do recall being drunk for most of the build...

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010
I built one of those skylines recently and was decently happy with how it came out. The 240Z kit is another excellent one with just enough detail to keep it interesting.

Hoping the new nissan Z car that they've turned into a japanese GT car comes out as a model kit given I've built the 350Z based version and the R35 version that followed it

Charliegrs
Aug 10, 2009

Dr. Garbanzo posted:

I built one of those skylines recently and was decently happy with how it came out. The 240Z kit is another excellent one with just enough detail to keep it interesting.

Hoping the new nissan Z car that they've turned into a japanese GT car comes out as a model kit given I've built the 350Z based version and the R35 version that followed it

Oh man I am ordering that kit as soon as it's available. What Im hoping is that it's a full kit with an engine and not just a curbside kit.

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010

Charliegrs posted:

Oh man I am ordering that kit as soon as it's available. What Im hoping is that it's a full kit with an engine and not just a curbside kit.

Given the way that they tend to package the actual JGTC cars I would be amazed if they did include the engine. That or it'll be like the Ts050 kit where there is an engine but it is entirely encased in covers and not much to look at.

Edit: to add I managed to get my hands on a second Mazda 787B kit yesterday partly cause it was a reasonable price and also because its a super rare kit to find for sale at less than stupid money

Dr. Garbanzo fucked around with this message at 05:58 on Sep 10, 2022

Charliegrs
Aug 10, 2009

Dr. Garbanzo posted:

Given the way that they tend to package the actual JGTC cars I would be amazed if they did include the engine. That or it'll be like the Ts050 kit where there is an engine but it is entirely encased in covers and not much to look at.

Edit: to add I managed to get my hands on a second Mazda 787B kit yesterday partly cause it was a reasonable price and also because its a super rare kit to find for sale at less than stupid money

They are releasing a standard street version of the new Z so that's what I meant when I said I hope the kit isn't just a curbside kit. Even if it is, I'll still get it. I love that new Z it's so sexy.

Charliegrs
Aug 10, 2009
The Hakosuka (the Japanese name for the first Syline Gt-R) went into the spraybooth today. I went with a flat light gray Tamiya lacquer. I'll clear over it with Tamiya clear so in the end it will be a little bit shinier but still "flat" which is look I like a lot and I think might be period correct for this car:


Also drat I am done sleeping on enamels. I saw a YouTube video that had a technique for painting a valve cover with raised lettering. Basically the trick is to paint the raised parts with lacquers, then paint over the whole thing with an enamel. Then take a cotton bud soaked with enamel thinner or mineral spirits and wipe off the paint from the raised parts which removes the enamel and leaves the lacquer underneath. Ive never used enamels before but I tried it today and while not perfect I'm pretty happy with the end result (pic taken right after painting so the paint is still wet)

Charliegrs fucked around with this message at 04:27 on Sep 11, 2022

Midjack
Dec 24, 2007



Reverse wash is a powerful technique.

Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something
A good technique, but you can do it with any type of paint, and there's no need to use two different types of paint. As long as the undercoat is fully dried and cured, you can go over it with the same paint type, and then remove sections with thinner right away(or water if its acrylic). As long as you're not scrubbing it in, the thinner won't attack the cured base layer when you remove the top layer.

MrUnderbridge
Jun 25, 2011

Or you can use a clear barrier coat like Future. Or whatever it's called these days.

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010
Finally spent some time at the bench today after not spending any since may. Got one model finished up and another is super close to being done which is always a good mojo boost. I'll get photos of the finished model at some point but I had something happen with the clear which I haven't had happen before but I'm guessing is a result of the fluro red paint used for the body. It looks like theres a pile of dirty spots under the clear and I'm not sure if it's the red reacting or perhaps some dirt from the decalling process which has fouled the paint. Either way I'm happy enough with the result in the end.

Smoke
Mar 12, 2005

I am NOT a red Bumblebee for god's sake!

Gun Saliva
I built a plane.





Some of the decals are absolutely tiny though.

Hellblazer187
Oct 12, 2003

Hi everyone. I'm not into scale modelling, but I've got a question about painting and maybe this thread can help me.

I purchased a gold plated Enterprise from TNG with an intent to also buy the ships from the other series and make a little display. But apparently the TNG one is the only one where they sell it gold plated. So my plans of having a gold star ship display are dashed.

So I'm wondering is there a way to kinda fake that with the regular die cast models and paint? I'm assuming It will probably be impossible to match the gold plating on the Ent-D model I have. But I wonder if I buy regular die cast models of all the ships (including another Ent-D) and paint them gold and put a high gloss varnish on them is it possible for that to look good?

HopperUK
Apr 29, 2007

Why would an ambulance be leaving the hospital?

Hellblazer187 posted:

Hi everyone. I'm not into scale modelling, but I've got a question about painting and maybe this thread can help me.

I purchased a gold plated Enterprise from TNG with an intent to also buy the ships from the other series and make a little display. But apparently the TNG one is the only one where they sell it gold plated. So my plans of having a gold star ship display are dashed.

So I'm wondering is there a way to kinda fake that with the regular die cast models and paint? I'm assuming It will probably be impossible to match the gold plating on the Ent-D model I have. But I wonder if I buy regular die cast models of all the ships (including another Ent-D) and paint them gold and put a high gloss varnish on them is it possible for that to look good?

I'm thinking this would super depend on your gold paint. Culture Hustle makes a really nice one but it's spendy.

Hellblazer187
Oct 12, 2003

Or, if there's another metallic color where it would come out better (Chrome, brass, etc.) I'd be fine with that too. I just want some shiny star ships.

I'll check out the Culture Hustle paint. Thanks for the rec!

Raskolnikov38
Mar 3, 2007

We were somewhere around Manila when the drugs began to take hold
alclad 2 paints are the the go to for realistic metal but they're also a pain

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

Lavinia Spenlow posted:

I built a plane.





Some of the decals are absolutely tiny though.

It's cuuute! How do you feel about it? Did you thin the paint?

Charliegrs
Aug 10, 2009

Hellblazer187 posted:

Hi everyone. I'm not into scale modelling, but I've got a question about painting and maybe this thread can help me.

I purchased a gold plated Enterprise from TNG with an intent to also buy the ships from the other series and make a little display. But apparently the TNG one is the only one where they sell it gold plated. So my plans of having a gold star ship display are dashed.

So I'm wondering is there a way to kinda fake that with the regular die cast models and paint? I'm assuming It will probably be impossible to match the gold plating on the Ent-D model I have. But I wonder if I buy regular die cast models of all the ships (including another Ent-D) and paint them gold and put a high gloss varnish on them is it possible for that to look good?

Are the ships made of plastic? Tamiya makes a really good gold spray paint for plastic models that would probably work perfect. It's best to spray it over a glossy black surface so you should get the Tamiya black spray paint then go over it with gold.

Hellblazer187
Oct 12, 2003

Charliegrs posted:

Are the ships made of plastic? Tamiya makes a really good gold spray paint for plastic models that would probably work perfect. It's best to spray it over a glossy black surface so you should get the Tamiya black spray paint then go over it with gold.

The ones I was looking at are made of metal, but if plastic is easier to get a gold look out of, I'm sure there are plastic models too.

FrozenVent
May 1, 2009

The Boeing 737-200QC is the undisputed workhorse of the skies.
You could also look at straight up gold sheet, it’s honestly not that expensive.

Hellblazer187
Oct 12, 2003

Hm, that's an idea. I might also just see what it would cost to have the models actually gold plated by someone who has the tools and ability.

Charliegrs
Aug 10, 2009

Hellblazer187 posted:

The ones I was looking at are made of metal, but if plastic is easier to get a gold look out of, I'm sure there are plastic models too.

All you would need to do is prime the model first with tamiya primer (it works great on metal) then you can use their spray paints to get the gold look.

Smoke
Mar 12, 2005

I am NOT a red Bumblebee for god's sake!

Gun Saliva

Nerobro posted:

It's cuuute! How do you feel about it? Did you thin the paint?

The kit overall goes together well enough but has a few minor issues: There's a distinct lack of guidance holes/pins in some parts and the instructions are annoyingly vague in terms of positioning of some things as a result. The outer parts of the wings are separate parts and are butt joined to the engines and the rest of the body, and have to be placed under a specific angle, which takes a decent amount of effort.

At least this time the lines shown in the instructions match the actual kit, whereas I've built quite a few Revell kits in the past where there was the suggestion of detail in the paint/decal scheme that just wasn't present on the actual kit.

For reference, the paint guide:



And the decal sheet:



Lower right part shows the tiny ones, they're actually legible though.

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




Hellblazer187 posted:

Hm, that's an idea. I might also just see what it would cost to have the models actually gold plated by someone who has the tools and ability.

Google will probably give you results for electroplating services and jewelry stores. Another thing to check out would be places that repair school band instruments. I know a guy that used to contract with the schools to fix all their instruments and he had the equipment to electroplate gold and silver.

tidal wave emulator
Aug 7, 2007

Lavinia Spenlow posted:

The kit overall goes together well enough but has a few minor issues: There's a distinct lack of guidance holes/pins in some parts and the instructions are annoyingly vague in terms of positioning of some things as a result. The outer parts of the wings are separate parts and are butt joined to the engines and the rest of the body, and have to be placed under a specific angle, which takes a decent amount of effort.

I believe the origins of that kit are MPM/Special Hobby's tooling from a couple of decades ago, so short-run in nature. I like Special Hobby kits but I've always thought it a bit cheeky of Revell to rebox them without any warnings that it's not going to be a slot-together-and-paint job - a bit like how Airfix now brand their ancient reboxings as 'Vintage' kits.

I think Revell do have a 'skill level' indicator on the boxes but it's only related to the parts-count and nothing to do with the actual difficulty of the build.

Airfix have just released a brand new 1/72 Meteor F8 which looks quite nice.

One of the many projects on my workbench at the moment is Special Hobby's recently tooled AW Meteor NF Mk14, which I want to do as Ferranti Edinburgh's 1950s radar test aircraft.




It's a difficult colour to match as it appears differently in every photo I've found, and also in the ones I've taken when I've seen it at the Scottish National Museum of Flight



I got as far as masking where the stripes should go before I got distracted. I'm going to have to try and print my own decals for it too, which will be a new experience. I've made up some SVGs and I just need to do some practice prints on decal paper.


Arquinsiel
Jun 1, 2006

"There is no such thing as society. There are individual men and women, and there are families. And no government can do anything except through people, and people must look to themselves first."

God Bless Margaret Thatcher
God Bless England
RIP My Iron Lady
Decal printing is a skill I feel like I really need to develop at some point soon. I'd rather not, but I've done a stupid and started painting warhams again.

Smoke
Mar 12, 2005

I am NOT a red Bumblebee for god's sake!

Gun Saliva

tidal wave emulator posted:

I believe the origins of that kit are MPM/Special Hobby's tooling from a couple of decades ago, so short-run in nature. I like Special Hobby kits but I've always thought it a bit cheeky of Revell to rebox them without any warnings that it's not going to be a slot-together-and-paint job - a bit like how Airfix now brand their ancient reboxings as 'Vintage' kits.

I think Revell do have a 'skill level' indicator on the boxes but it's only related to the parts-count and nothing to do with the actual difficulty of the build.

Yeah, Revell has a bit of a bad habit of not stating the origins of a kit or trying to hide that the mold is older than I am. In this case reviews had prepared me.

The difficulty level is also generally only based on part count by their own admission, although I've seen situations on more recent kits where the paint job or general complexity was taken into account, raising the level a bit.

On the other hand, a lot of kits that qualify as Level 2 based on the parts count got labeled Level 3 in the past to match the rest of the "line" they were released in (1:72 WW1 planes, 1:144 modern jets, 1:1200 ships)

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HopperUK
Apr 29, 2007

Why would an ambulance be leaving the hospital?
decals are satan :mad:

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