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Qwijib0 posted:a console-style humdifier is probably the right solution-- they're designed to do large spaces and have sizable tanks so you won't have to fill it as often. thanks! i'll check it out. fortunately it's been humid enough for the last week or so that i haven't had to rush out and get anything. i guess winters here are decently humid. i know the summers are like 3% humidity or something obscene. maybe i'll just need to have the humidifier running for summer, not sure yet.
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Sep 11, 2022 16:03
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So the toilet tank in a bathroom leaked while we were gone. It looked like the toilet fill valve got stuck, causing water to keep filling, but the mystery was why the water wasn't going into the overflow tube. A bit of debugging revealed the reason: the overflow tube is too high, so it drains out the non-watertight hole for the flush handle first. Here's a picture, although, it's not that clear what the heights are: So it seems like whoever replaced the previous overflow tube didn't bother to cut it down to the right height. Here are the options that I thought of: 1) Cut off the top of the overflow tube to the right height. However, if I do this, there won't be anything for the refill tube to attach to. 2) Replace the overflow tube. But that'd require taking off the tank, which might be complicated since this toilet is fairly old. Is there anything else I can do? Maybe it suffices to cut a few holes in the tube at the right height or something?
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Sep 12, 2022 03:30
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Do you really need to take the tank apart to replace that? I’ve never done it but I would have guessed that it just unscrews from the bottom of the tank. Anyway, least invasive modification may be to cut some slots down from the top of the pipe to an elevation below the problematic hole with a hacksaw blade or something small with a cutting wheel?
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Sep 12, 2022 03:41
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It's been a minute since I've installed a toilet repair kit oh gently caress I just cursed myself but I distinctly remember there being instructions to cut the tube - so yeah, whoever installed that last didn't get why it had to be cut. It looks just aged enough that I wouldn't attempt the fix without having a whole replacement kit on hand, because that tube looks like it might snap when you try to cut it. But then yes, I'd attempt the repair without pulling the tank first.
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Sep 12, 2022 03:55
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IOwnCalculus posted:It's been a minute since I've installed a toilet repair kit oh gently caress I just cursed myself but I distinctly remember there being instructions to cut the tube - so yeah, whoever installed that last didn't get why it had to be cut. Nah attempt the repair and then drive to the store after it breaks like a real man.
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Sep 12, 2022 05:14
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No one has every bought replacement parts for a toilet while still having a working toilet.
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Sep 12, 2022 05:19
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tangy yet delightful posted:Nah attempt the repair and then drive to the store after it breaks like a real man. Attempt the repair, then flush for a few days with a home depot bucket filled in the tub. Then go to the store.
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Sep 12, 2022 05:20
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Renaissance Robot posted:It's a double action hinge but I doubt you're going to find one on a shelf in the size you want. Thanks for that! And I see what you mean, all the ones on Google Image Search have a pretty short midsection. Guy definitely has more tools than I have access to/am willing to buy (I rent a 1BR and am moving overseas in less than a year), but fortunately I'm planning on doing a metalworking course early next year so might be able to have a crack at building that jig. PainterofCrap posted:You could use four hinges: one pair up top & the other below. Does not have to be a single compound unit. I'm a little tired after a full workday so might not be visualising what you're talking about correctly, but the wooden piece above the ground glass back that the hinge spans has to stay fixed in place (it acts as a guide/retaining clip for the film holder).
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Sep 12, 2022 09:39
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Thanks for that! And I see what you mean, all the ones on Google Image Search have a pretty short midsection. No, I see what you're saying, now. So the backplate hinges up & over the strip it's laying over. Pulls out from the top so the bottom can be lifted out of the groove. I can't visualize why that is important to the function, but I get it. And replacing that hinge would be difficult. I could see fabricating them out of two - one hinge set with a long plate, the other short - cut & welded or brazed together.
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Sep 12, 2022 14:19
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PainterofCrap posted:No, I see what you're saying, now. So the backplate hinges up & over the strip it's laying over. Pulls out from the top so the bottom can be lifted out of the groove. I can't visualize why that is important to the function, but I get it. And replacing that hinge would be difficult. I could see fabricating them out of two - one hinge set with a long plate, the other short - cut & welded or brazed together. You could maybe just get two T-Strap hinges and then attach them together on the T since they should be long enough that you can get to whatever length you need.
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Sep 12, 2022 15:25
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I had to take a mouse apart to fix it. What kind of glue would be best to put the little rubber pads back on? Something permanent but not too permanent in case I need to take it apart again.
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Sep 13, 2022 04:39
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Lysandus posted:I had to take a mouse apart to fix it. What kind of glue would be best to put the little rubber pads back on? Something permanent but not too permanent in case I need to take it apart again. Elmers. It's a little flexible which might help it stay but still be removable. Why did you take the pads off? Hidden screw?
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Sep 13, 2022 04:52
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I'm gonna say double sided tape.
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Sep 13, 2022 12:43
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Mouse manufacturers use adhesive that's similar to double sided tape since it's thin. If you have a popular gaming mouse you can probably buy new feet/skids for it in either PTFE to replace what you had, or glass if you want super smooth but more expensive. There's a lot of options on amazon or ebay. If you don't want to buy one then yeah, I'd try the double sided tape or something similar. Don't use super glue since it would be a challenge to remove later. Elmer's may work, although I don't know how well it would bond to ptfe or plastic.
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Sep 13, 2022 13:14
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I've used rubber cement with success in the past.
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Sep 13, 2022 16:11
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I have some guys installing some siding right now. There's window in the front wall of my house that had been added by previous owners. We had the windows replaced 6 years ago, and they were retrofit, but those guys said nothing about what was going on. Bottom windows came with the house when it was built. These are framed normally and correctly despite my drawing. The top window was added later by someone. Black are studs, blue are windows. 
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Sep 14, 2022 18:45
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H110Hawk posted:Elmers. It's a little flexible which might help it stay but still be removable. Why did you take the pads off? Hidden screw? Yeah a screw. I never would have thought of regular old elmers.
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Sep 15, 2022 04:41
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Lysandus posted:Yeah a screw. I never would have thought of regular old elmers. Also the person who suggested rubber cement is the answer, but what a nightmare material to get a thin smear of. Either way, whatever you have on hand is probably "good enough."
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Sep 15, 2022 05:20
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Whenever I pull the feet off a mouse (logitechs, mostly) there’s enough goo left on them to keep them in place when I just press them back on. The mouse spends all day resting on top of them anyway
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Sep 15, 2022 05:26
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haveblue posted:Whenever I pull the feet off a mouse 
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Sep 15, 2022 15:25
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H110Hawk posted:Also the person who suggested rubber cement is the answer, but what a nightmare material to get a thin smear of. Either way, whatever you have on hand is probably "good enough." I use a toothpick. It's so small it can't pick up much of the cement and the rigidity aides in application. It doesn't take much.
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Sep 15, 2022 16:41
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PremiumSupport posted:I use a toothpick. It's so small it can't pick up much of the cement and the rigidity aides in application. It doesn't take much. It is Satan's adhesive.
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Sep 15, 2022 17:20
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H110Hawk posted:It is Satan's adhesive. No. That’s expanding foam.
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Sep 15, 2022 23:19
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PainterofCrap posted:No. Technically not an adhesive, I would say it's more of Satan's diet coke and mentos enemas. 
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Sep 15, 2022 23:27
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H110Hawk posted:Technically not an adhesive, I take it you've never gotten it anywhere except exactly where you want it to go.
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Sep 16, 2022 00:42
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PainterofCrap posted:I take it you've never gotten it anywhere except exactly where you want it to go. I take it you've never seen... Nevermind.
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Sep 16, 2022 01:12
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H110Hawk posted:Technically not an adhesive, I would say it's more of Satan's diet coke and mentos enemas. Isn't it? It sticks to skin worse than CA and is harder to get off. It's like polyurethane glue with extra foaming agents. Wallet fucked around with this message at 13:53 on Sep 16, 2022 |
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Sep 16, 2022 13:50
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I was making a basic joke about how it's not marketed as an adhesive to be able to chain on the super basic joke after about that poo poo getting everywhere and being a nightmare to clean up when it goes wrong.
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Sep 16, 2022 14:20
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Sep 16, 2022 14:27
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I have to install a epdm rubber boot to flash a vent pipe. "manufacturers guidelines" recommend using epdm primer to prepare the surface. Conveniently, the manufacturer sells epdm primer for $50/gal is there a substitute I can use instead?
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Sep 17, 2022 11:44
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Our walk in shower is original to the house (20 years) and looking like it needs to be resealed. It's also been leaking around the outside corners and weird spots I never was able to figure out why. When doing research on sealing these I ean across that in most cases when the ledge the door/frame is on leans inward typically it's left unsealed to let water drain into the shower. This actually has silicone on the inside of the door from whoever did it last, would that explain the weird leaking from trapping water inside the frame and should I just scrape that out?
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Sep 17, 2022 23:49
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Bob Mundon posted:Our walk in shower is original to the house (20 years) and looking like it needs to be resealed. It's also been leaking around the outside corners and weird spots I never was able to figure out why. Not to be dismissive here, but early 2000s 20 year old construction would explain this. And it's almost definitely so bad it's time to take this down to the studs. What do you need here? Is this your long term home that you want to fix right? Or are you just trying to keep this together for a few years?
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Sep 18, 2022 00:06
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It's our long term house. Wasn't an issue when we moved in (watched him check under the carpet all around there for leaks). The sealant that's starting to look iffy is white, that and a couple other spots are clear, in guessing they did that prepping the house for sale, so probably just looking at a couple years of that not 20. Am I probably thinking right the sealant on the inside is causing that?
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Sep 18, 2022 01:03
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Bob Mundon posted:Am I probably thinking right the sealant on the inside is causing that? I have no idea what you're trying to describe here. You're probably right, but you're probably looking at flipper level fixups done to hide bigger problems. I would not expect an original builder 20 year old shower stall to be serviceable still unless this was a custom home that somebody spent big bucks on. You really need to include pictures and probably then poke around and provide results to get a real opinion via the forums.
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Sep 18, 2022 01:09
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BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:I have to install a epdm rubber boot to flash a vent pipe. "manufacturers guidelines" recommend using epdm primer to prepare the surface. Conveniently, the manufacturer sells epdm primer for $50/gal I have had good luck looking the MSDS for whatever and look up it's composition, and find the nearest match at the hardware store, usually in the PVC section. For EDPM primer it might be in the roofing section, but here's a random one I found:
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Sep 18, 2022 01:49
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Hello friends! I worked up the gumption today to finally run and install some network cables and coax for my basement gaming setup and TV. Everything was pretty painless, but I have a few questions about the best course of action now to repair the aftereffects of my labors. Here's a picture of how things look now, with comments below: 
Thanks! I look forward to Motronic telling me about my mistakes so I can learn some new things.
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Sep 18, 2022 04:00
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I'll let more knowledgeable posters talk about the rest of it, but I can tell you that the reason the box was so hard to install is that you bought a box that is intended to be installed when the framing is exposed, before drywall goes up. If you look up "old work box" you'll see boxes intended to be installed without nailing into the framing.
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Sep 18, 2022 04:05
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a 90 degree drill attachment will be handy if you do more of these.
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Sep 18, 2022 05:00
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A 1-gang low voltage bracket would have allowed you to bypass the box entirely, so long as you’re just doing coax/Ethernet. Then you just mount the plate to that. To fix your gap there - small thin piece of wood, angle that in (put it in so it’s vertical), attach drywall screws above and below the spot where the hole is, then pop the piece you cut out back against that, and slap a drywall screw in that. See at about 7:08 in this video for a demonstration: https://youtu.be/qbupCzSPW9o&t=7m8s Dr. Habibi fucked around with this message at 09:12 on Sep 18, 2022 |
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Sep 18, 2022 09:05
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Wasabi the J posted:I have had good luck looking the MSDS for whatever and look up it's composition, and find the nearest match at the hardware store, usually in the PVC section. Ah! Very clever. I ended up using a different flashing product to get around it but this is a real useful tip that I'll use in the near future. 
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Sep 18, 2022 11:24
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