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Admiral Joeslop
Jul 8, 2010




Jenkl posted:

Do you have any large, lit, powered rectangles?

Like the ones with fluorescent light tubes? Yes, one in the kitchen near the half bath and one in the unfinished basement. Sounds like maybe y'all solved the mystery!

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QuarkJets
Sep 8, 2008

that load bearing pipe

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

they had to order a different linear drain since they had the wrong one, so it took a while to finish up, but the shower is finally done. the core drilling was 1040 (the last one that did was 2000, so I'm glad this one was less for whatever reason). they were kind enough to only charge me half since they had all told me moving the drain wouldn't be needed. total damage was 11,200. i'm really glad i'm on the first floor, otherwise this would have been a huge pain, and i'm sure much more of an expense.

here's the correct chrome drain

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Admiral Joeslop
Jul 8, 2010






So I'm considering using these shelves for all the cooking spices and oils and such. Is there an easy way to hang a curtain or something that opens so I can protect them from sunlight? The shelves are in the far back of the kitchen so don't get a lot of sun regardless so it's not a big concern right now.

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

Shower looks good. Any particular reason you wanted chrome instead of the brushed? I know it's what you originally ordered, just curious if there's benefits to chrome over a brushed finish.

A question for curiosity, not to fix anything because lmao at sinking a dime into this rental: you caulk tile corners, not grout them, yes? We're in a circa 60's California house with one of the original bathrooms all in yellow (the tiled everything kitchen may be original too) and these people grouted not only the inside corners of the shower stall, but around the sinks and fixtures as well. Was that the norm back then or were they just bad and stupid?

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



BonerGhost posted:

Shower looks good. Any particular reason you wanted chrome instead of the brushed? I know it's what you originally ordered, just curious if there's benefits to chrome over a brushed finish.

A question for curiosity, not to fix anything because lmao at sinking a dime into this rental: you caulk tile corners, not grout them, yes? We're in a circa 60's California house with one of the original bathrooms all in yellow (the tiled everything kitchen may be original too) and these people grouted not only the inside corners of the shower stall, but around the sinks and fixtures as well. Was that the norm back then or were they just bad and stupid?

Generally caulk is the standard on 90 degree tile corners, such as the vertical corner of a shower. However there are other options, and grout is not necessarily a dealbreaker. One concern is that walls move in reference to other walls, so you want to avoid cracking, and caulk typically does a better job of that if flex is involved.

On mine a contractor ended up using a product called epoxy grout, it looks like grout but has more complicated install and longer lifetime. I actually told them to use caulk but they misheard me (and had caulk on the contract), so I got the better product for free :shrug:

It looks like actionjackson has some nice clear (or grey to match the grout?) silicone caulk on the vertical corner joint, for example.

Inner Light fucked around with this message at 21:38 on Sep 14, 2022

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words

Admiral Joeslop posted:



So I'm considering using these shelves for all the cooking spices and oils and such. Is there an easy way to hang a curtain or something that opens so I can protect them from sunlight? The shelves are in the far back of the kitchen so don't get a lot of sun regardless so it's not a big concern right now.
You could hang tension rods, but curtains will be annoying to get out of the way and annoying to clean. I think you're trying to reinvent a cabinet door.

Admiral Joeslop
Jul 8, 2010




Anne Whateley posted:

You could hang tension rods, but curtains will be annoying to get out of the way and annoying to clean. I think you're trying to reinvent a cabinet door.

A custom cabinet door is a possibility. I don't really want to spend a ton on it though since the kitchen is first on the list of Future Remodels Someday.

I'll look into it though!

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words
Cheap way is cut a square of plywood to size and spraypaint it white (or if you can't match the white of your cabinets, some pop of color). Concealed hinges would prevent clashing with the hinges on your other cabinets. It wouldn't be amazing but I wouldn't mind living with it for a couple years, either.

The Dave
Sep 9, 2003

Could also go the route of nice matching baskets.

BigFactory
Sep 17, 2002

Admiral Joeslop posted:



So I'm considering using these shelves for all the cooking spices and oils and such. Is there an easy way to hang a curtain or something that opens so I can protect them from sunlight? The shelves are in the far back of the kitchen so don't get a lot of sun regardless so it's not a big concern right now.

You could hot glue/epoxy/double sided tape some magnets up by the top of the shelf, then cut a piece of fabric and sew or even hem tape magnets into that. If you add magnets top and bottom you could clip it up to get in the shelf then pull it back down, and the whole thing would be removable and washable.

Admiral Joeslop
Jul 8, 2010




BigFactory posted:

You could hot glue/epoxy/double sided tape some magnets up by the top of the shelf, then cut a piece of fabric and sew or even hem tape magnets into that. If you add magnets top and bottom you could clip it up to get in the shelf then pull it back down, and the whole thing would be removable and washable.

For some reason this post made me remember that swinging arm curtain rods are a thing and might just be the simplest solution, even.

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

Inner Light posted:

Generally caulk is the standard on 90 degree tile corners, such as the vertical corner of a shower. However there are other options, and grout is not necessarily a dealbreaker. One concern is that walls move in reference to other walls, so you want to avoid cracking, and caulk typically does a better job of that if flex is involved.

On mine a contractor ended up using a product called epoxy grout, it looks like grout but has more complicated install and longer lifetime. I actually told them to use caulk but they misheard me (and had caulk on the contract), so I got the better product for free :shrug:

It looks like actionjackson has some nice clear (or grey to match the grout?) silicone caulk on the vertical corner joint, for example.

There’s sanded caulk which can be color matched and isn’t really any more difficult to install than regular caulk. It’s usually in the tile area of the hardware store.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Inner Light posted:

Generally caulk is the standard on 90 degree tile corners, such as the vertical corner of a shower. However there are other options, and grout is not necessarily a dealbreaker. One concern is that walls move in reference to other walls, so you want to avoid cracking, and caulk typically does a better job of that if flex is involved.

On mine a contractor ended up using a product called epoxy grout, it looks like grout but has more complicated install and longer lifetime. I actually told them to use caulk but they misheard me (and had caulk on the contract), so I got the better product for free :shrug:

It looks like actionjackson has some nice clear (or grey to match the grout?) silicone caulk on the vertical corner joint, for example.

I think clear caulk is a huge no-go, just wanted to mention that because noone else did and I think it got a little skipped over. IIRC it's impossible to keep looking nice.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

BonerGhost posted:

Shower looks good. Any particular reason you wanted chrome instead of the brushed? I know it's what you originally ordered, just curious if there's benefits to chrome over a brushed finish.

all the other metals in the bathroom are chrome, you don't want to mix metals in the same room according to my interior designer

that aside, i like having a nice reflective surface in my bathroom since there is only one light above the vanity. same reason why i did glossy for the wall tile.

Inner Light posted:


It looks like actionjackson has some nice clear (or grey to match the grout?) silicone caulk on the vertical corner joint, for example.

it was grouted initially, then when they came back today to finish up they put silicone caulk in the corners

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 02:41 on Sep 15, 2022

The Dave
Sep 9, 2003

And if you have a common brand with a popular color you should be able to easily find their matching caulk blend.

I had a bag of grout from the PO and got the matching caulk at Home Depot and it blended with the 12 year old grout flawlessly.

Xenoborg
Mar 10, 2007

Are there any recommended home insurance companies? I doubt there are any good, just varying shades of bad.

Liberty, my current, is increasing our premiums 48% with no change in coverage and the only thing they will say about it is "inflation", so I'm going to shop around.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Xenoborg posted:

Are there any recommended home insurance companies? I doubt there are any good, just varying shades of bad.

Liberty, my current, is increasing our premiums 48% with no change in coverage and the only thing they will say about it is "inflation", so I'm going to shop around.

I assume you're in the states but you might want to specify. I'm one of the 26 people who live outside the states and I'm in Canada, I use SquareOne for my insurance and I've been really happy with them. Had tenant insurance when I was renting and have condo insurance now that I own. Very easy to talk to someone, the rates seem good and fine, etc.

Phil Moscowitz
Feb 19, 2007

If blood be the price of admiralty,
Lord God, we ha' paid in full!
USAA is pretty good if you can get it. They only raised us 4% and that was after a hurricane.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
We've really like Eerie. Haven't had to make a claim but they've been pleasant to deal with, probably helps that they have a local office in the area. We have home, umbrella, and auto through them.

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!

Xenoborg posted:

Are there any recommended home insurance companies? I doubt there are any good, just varying shades of bad.

Liberty, my current, is increasing our premiums 48% with no change in coverage and the only thing they will say about it is "inflation", so I'm going to shop around.

gently caress them! Those bastards cancelled me with two days of notice after I bought my house. Do you have any independent agents around you?

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Xenoborg posted:

Are there any recommended home insurance companies? I doubt there are any good, just varying shades of bad.

Liberty, my current, is increasing our premiums 48% with no change in coverage and the only thing they will say about it is "inflation", so I'm going to shop around.

Get a decent (local) insurance agent and have them shop around the policy for you, IMO.

tetrapyloctomy
Feb 18, 2003

Okay -- you talk WAY too fast.
Nap Ghost

NomNomNom posted:

We've really like Eerie.

Gotta be careful with them, they'll ghost you.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Wallet posted:

Get a decent (local) insurance agent and have them shop around the policy for you, IMO.

This is the right idea.

There are a lot more insurance companies out there that you've never heard of that are completely fine, and having a local in person independent agent means you have someone who knows who to get ahold of and how when poo poo goes wrong.

DrBouvenstein
Feb 28, 2007

I think I'm a doctor, but that doesn't make me a doctor. This fancy avatar does.

The Dave posted:

And if you have a common brand with a popular color you should be able to easily find their matching caulk blend.

I had a bag of grout from the PO and got the matching caulk at Home Depot and it blended with the 12 year old grout flawlessly.

Anyone have a caulk that's a good match for Mapei Pearl Grey unsanded keracolor grout?

This is the shade of grey:



They make a silicone caulk that was an exact match, but but I think they might have discontinued it and what I see in stock at my local Lowe's is just old stock. The other Lowe's near me, and the one nearer to my office that the Lowe's website likes to keep switching to (even though I tell it not to) have it as out of stock. Plus, the Amazon listing for it is...odd. A third party seller and the product description is for some sort of electronics, so not going to try that.

But the reviews on their brand of caulk are all over the place...like 3 stars, and there's a couple one-star ratings both saying it doesn't dry:


Plus, the Amazon reviews also make it seem like either the quality is all over the map, or it's old stock and is just not going to work:



OR, other option, I just choose a different grout brand that is easier to find a perfect match for? Taking suggestions for a grey grout+caulk combo!

AFewBricksShy
Jun 19, 2003

of a full load.



DrBouvenstein posted:

Anyone have a caulk that's a good match for Mapei Pearl Grey unsanded keracolor grout?

This is the shade of grey:



They make a silicone caulk that was an exact match, but but I think they might have discontinued it and what I see in stock at my local Lowe's is just old stock. The other Lowe's near me, and the one nearer to my office that the Lowe's website likes to keep switching to (even though I tell it not to) have it as out of stock. Plus, the Amazon listing for it is...odd. A third party seller and the product description is for some sort of electronics, so not going to try that.

But the reviews on their brand of caulk are all over the place...like 3 stars, and there's a couple one-star ratings both saying it doesn't dry:


Plus, the Amazon reviews also make it seem like either the quality is all over the map, or it's old stock and is just not going to work:



OR, other option, I just choose a different grout brand that is easier to find a perfect match for? Taking suggestions for a grey grout+caulk combo!

Where are you located? If you're anywhere near Philly I can tell you exactly where to go, but long story short move away from the big box stores.
See if you can find an actual flooring store, like Floor and Decor or Dal Tile, they will almost certainly have it. There's a company called Color Fast that does the color matched caulks for the major manufacturers.

Jenkl
Aug 5, 2008

This post needs at least three times more shit!

DrBouvenstein posted:

Anyone have a caulk that's a good match for Mapei Pearl Grey unsanded keracolor grout?

This is the shade of grey:



They make a silicone caulk that was an exact match, but but I think they might have discontinued it and what I see in stock at my local Lowe's is just old stock. The other Lowe's near me, and the one nearer to my office that the Lowe's website likes to keep switching to (even though I tell it not to) have it as out of stock. Plus, the Amazon listing for it is...odd. A third party seller and the product description is for some sort of electronics, so not going to try that.

But the reviews on their brand of caulk are all over the place...like 3 stars, and there's a couple one-star ratings both saying it doesn't dry:


Plus, the Amazon reviews also make it seem like either the quality is all over the map, or it's old stock and is just not going to work:



OR, other option, I just choose a different grout brand that is easier to find a perfect match for? Taking suggestions for a grey grout+caulk combo!

I saw similar reviews on home depots custom brand products but had no issues.
I suspect that, because they offer so many colours, they sit on shelves too long so you have a higher chance of buying a dud that's gone bad, and hence doesn't cure.

The other complaint about the colour matches caulks, vs something like ge silicone, is the matches products are typically a latex with silicone added, so just won't perform as well over time vs pure silicone. But it matches and is so much easier to apply, so pick your poison. For me, it's a low use shower so the matching was worth it and it came out nice.

DrBouvenstein
Feb 28, 2007

I think I'm a doctor, but that doesn't make me a doctor. This fancy avatar does.

AFewBricksShy posted:

Where are you located? If you're anywhere near Philly I can tell you exactly where to go, but long story short move away from the big box stores.
See if you can find an actual flooring store, like Floor and Decor or Dal Tile, they will almost certainly have it. There's a company called Color Fast that does the color matched caulks for the major manufacturers.

Not anywhere near Philly, BUT I am going to a Daltile location this afternoon to pick up MOST of my tiles, so I'll ask them when I'm there.

Which brings me to another question I forgot to ask in the last post.

My regular tiles came in...but not the bullnose tiles for my top row, as I'm just doing a half-wall of tile. It is on backorder and not estimated to get in for a month, and I can't wait that long to start this project, so what's the best way to stop tiling and then finish a month later? I'm guessing the real answer is "don't" but that's really not an option.

Should I leave JUST the top row left, or for the sake of making it easier to spread the thinset, should I leave like the top row AND the row or two under it?

And with grout, can I just come back later to grout the rows after the fact, or is it better to go ungrouted for a month and grout everything in one go? Bear in mind this is NOT in the actual shower area, and I'd be willing to put some plastic up over the tiles on the wall that meets the shower to protect against splashback if needed.

Phil Moscowitz
Feb 19, 2007

If blood be the price of admiralty,
Lord God, we ha' paid in full!

tetrapyloctomy posted:

Gotta be careful with them, they'll ghost you.

:golfclap:

Poopelyse
Jan 22, 2011

by Fluffdaddy
I want to put in a reverse osmosis guy in the kitchen. Does anyone have recommendations or experience with them? my water here is very hard. Currently drink and cook with water from the Brita filter but I want better filtering and direct access at the sink.
Anybody have experience with tankless systems? I see there are tankless ones that require electricity and since I have an outlet under sink already, seems like a good choice because they have less waste and require less space.

I'm ok with spending $300 or so on a system. I'm also comfortable installing it myself (after I ask more questions here of course)

AFewBricksShy
Jun 19, 2003

of a full load.



DrBouvenstein posted:

Not anywhere near Philly, BUT I am going to a Daltile location this afternoon to pick up MOST of my tiles, so I'll ask them when I'm there.

Which brings me to another question I forgot to ask in the last post.

My regular tiles came in...but not the bullnose tiles for my top row, as I'm just doing a half-wall of tile. It is on backorder and not estimated to get in for a month, and I can't wait that long to start this project, so what's the best way to stop tiling and then finish a month later? I'm guessing the real answer is "don't" but that's really not an option.

Should I leave JUST the top row left, or for the sake of making it easier to spread the thinset, should I leave like the top row AND the row or two under it?

And with grout, can I just come back later to grout the rows after the fact, or is it better to go ungrouted for a month and grout everything in one go? Bear in mind this is NOT in the actual shower area, and I'd be willing to put some plastic up over the tiles on the wall that meets the shower to protect against splashback if needed.

You're right, the best bet would be to not do those walls.
However it's not the end of the world. Make sure you're very clean when you set your top course of tile. It's your call if you want to leave off one row of flat and the bullnose, or just the bullnose. Just make sure it's clean with no mortar on top of the tiles and no mortar clumps on the substrate. If you get any on there while setting it's fine, just make sure you sponge it off so you have a nice perfectly smooth surface when you come back to finish.

Regarding grouting: if you're using mapei get Ultracolor grout. That will stay consistent in color regardless of variations in the amount of water, humidity, etc.. that can have an effect on grout, so you'd be able to grout the wall and then the bullnose afterwards. Just make sure you keep the wall clean.


Edit:VV your call. It does set up quicker, but if you don't spread more than 1 wall at a time you'd be fine. Your call though.

AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 19:07 on Sep 16, 2022

DrBouvenstein
Feb 28, 2007

I think I'm a doctor, but that doesn't make me a doctor. This fancy avatar does.

AFewBricksShy posted:



Regarding grouting: if you're using mapei get Ultracolor grout. That will stay consistent in color regardless of variations in the amount of water, humidity, etc.. that can have an effect on grout, so you'd be able to grout the wall and then the bullnose afterwards. Just make sure you keep the wall clean.

I went with Kera color over Ultracolor because I saw a DIY video from a channel I've watched a bunch, and he is a big user of Mapei products but recommends against the Ultracolor line for beginners because it has a much quicker set time and it's far less forgiving to mistakes and DIYers.

ptier
Jul 2, 2007

Back off man, I'm a scientist.
Pillbug
I'm thinking of getting solar panels on the old domicile. The only solar provider I really know of is Tesla and I have a friend that got an install from them and seems pretty happy. Of course Tesla is not doing solar in our area yet (or ever). I wanted to see if anyone had any good solar providers they might be aware of. I'm trying to do solar with battery backup power for things like power outages which are usually pretty brief (1-3 days at most).

So yea, any recs for a company that won't try to lease them to me for 500 years or require a first born or just totally screw me?

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

AFewBricksShy posted:

It's your call if you want to leave off one row of flat and the bullnose, or just the bullnose.

All of this is correct but if you're up against any kind of hard limit (ceiling or wall or whatever) leave yourself one course of easily cut bulk tile rather than having to mess with your bullnose. And be very clean as mentioned. Scrape and sponge and remove whatever excess you have. Otherwise you're going to have to chip and grind.

spf3million
Sep 27, 2007

hit 'em with the rhythm

ptier posted:

I'm thinking of getting solar panels on the old domicile. The only solar provider I really know of is Tesla and I have a friend that got an install from them and seems pretty happy. Of course Tesla is not doing solar in our area yet (or ever). I wanted to see if anyone had any good solar providers they might be aware of. I'm trying to do solar with battery backup power for things like power outages which are usually pretty brief (1-3 days at most).

So yea, any recs for a company that won't try to lease them to me for 500 years or require a first born or just totally screw me?
In our area there are a bunch of smaller companies and a couple nation-wide companies. We went with a smaller local outfit that had good reviews on the various online websites. If you happen to be in the bay area I can give you a referral.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

DrBouvenstein posted:

Not anywhere near Philly, BUT I am going to a Daltile location this afternoon to pick up MOST of my tiles, so I'll ask them when I'm there.

Which brings me to another question I forgot to ask in the last post.

My regular tiles came in...but not the bullnose tiles for my top row, as I'm just doing a half-wall of tile. It is on backorder and not estimated to get in for a month, and I can't wait that long to start this project, so what's the best way to stop tiling and then finish a month later? I'm guessing the real answer is "don't" but that's really not an option.

Should I leave JUST the top row left, or for the sake of making it easier to spread the thinset, should I leave like the top row AND the row or two under it?

My wife used to sell tile - you're playing with fire here if you start a project without all the tile available. What if the bullnose comes in and the batch is a *slightly* different color?

It was not terribly uncommon for her to have to call around to other stores in the chain looking for tiles from the same batch when a customer got 90% done and realized they needed just 5 more tiles.

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

devicenull posted:

My wife used to sell tile - you're playing with fire here if you start a project without all the tile available. What if the bullnose comes in and the batch is a *slightly* different color?

It was not terribly uncommon for her to have to call around to other stores in the chain looking for tiles from the same batch when a customer got 90% done and realized they needed just 5 more tiles.

Maybe I have only bought crappy tile, but isn't there often enough variation within the same batch that you should shuffle all your boxes anyway before you get started?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

BonerGhost posted:

Maybe I have only bought crappy tile, but isn't there often enough variation within the same batch that you should shuffle all your boxes anyway before you get started?

For most of the ceramic tile I've bought, yes. But different batches are even way more different. And there's no amount of shuffling you can do to make that match if it's all border tile of some other batch against your field tile.

In fact, it would be safer to just go with a totally different border color in this situation.

AFewBricksShy
Jun 19, 2003

of a full load.



Many companies don’t make their trim in the same place as they do the flat tile anyway so even if everything is available at the same time, there’s not necessarily a guarantee it will match. I can safely say that in 20 years of doing this, I’ve only had issues a couple of times.

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DrBouvenstein
Feb 28, 2007

I think I'm a doctor, but that doesn't make me a doctor. This fancy avatar does.

devicenull posted:

My wife used to sell tile - you're playing with fire here if you start a project without all the tile available. What if the bullnose comes in and the batch is a *slightly* different color?

It was not terribly uncommon for her to have to call around to other stores in the chain looking for tiles from the same batch when a customer got 90% done and realized they needed just 5 more tiles.

There's one supplier for the brand of tile I got near me, so... Not really any other options. I got the whitest white tile they have, so hopefully if there's one that's most likely to be consistent it's that color?

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