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w00tmonger posted:is silk filament just trash or something? After a LOT of attempts with silk, I have come to the conclusion that, yes, it's loving garbage. On a complete separate topic, does anyone want to buy like 5 rolls of silk PLA?  
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Sep 21, 2022 14:55
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w00tmonger posted:is silk filament just trash or something? Silk is a significant percentage TPU. It's sensitive to absorbed moisture, hard to retract, and very spongy in the extruder. Go slow with it and it's ok, after drying.
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Sep 21, 2022 14:56
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Casual Encountess posted:
Spaghetti like that is all but guaranteed to be a bed adhesion, layer shifting, or layer adhesion issue, but my bet would be pretty solidly on bed adhesion. Even if the first layer seems stuck down, it only needs to shift a teeny tiny bit for the whole thing to turn into a mess like that.
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Sep 21, 2022 15:03
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insta posted:Silk is a significant percentage TPU. It's sensitive to absorbed moisture, hard to retract, and very spongy in the extruder. Go slow with it and it's ok, after drying. Thanks. I've dried, messed with the temps, dried again, pulled hair out, kicked the workbench, and dried again and none of that worked. I'll try slowing it down. Any idea how much? 10%? 20?
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Sep 21, 2022 15:03
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w00tmonger posted:is silk filament just trash or something? I've had good luck with it but I print it a little slower and had to up the tension on my extruder gear to keep it feeding on at least one of my printers. I usually make shiny stuff for xmas gifts but I printed some Neutron Tube containers with it a couple of months back. The right one failed because I only had like 200g on the spool and needed like 280g. 
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Sep 21, 2022 15:08
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So a whole quadrant of my 3d print on my resin printer failed. There was no evidence of supports or anything on the build plate, so I imagine the plate was not correctly leveled. I also have heard that, at least on the Saturn 2, that you can impact the level of the plate when you take it off and remove the prints if you hold it by head instead of the plate, and I was doing that to avoid excess resin getting on the gloves and whatnot. So I releveld the plate and have my next print going. Question 1: Do I have to, or should I, re-level the plate every single print? Question 2: After a print should I wipe down the build plate surface? The top of the build plate as well? Just a gentle wipe to remove excess material or should I get some iso on a cloth and wipe it down? My dino-rider prints were failing because they were falling off the supports. The models came pre-supported, and some of the pieces worked really well. But the bigger pieces would almost certainly fail, and when removing them from the supports they would come off with almost no pressure. I double checked my settings for exposure length and it was at 2.5 seconds a layer, which is for standard resin on my machine and that was a mistake on my part as I am using 8k elegoo resin which indicates 3.5 seconds a layer. Does this change seem like it would impact support and model adhesion, or is it likely that the models just had poorly done supports? The model file also has duplicates and naming errors in the pre-supported file while the no supported file is correct. This leads me to believe that not a lot of effort went into the pre-supported models. I am printing at .05 and the detail is amazing, at least to me, but the machine can go even smaller. Would there be any benefit to that? Does that make it harder to print, or just take longer?
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Sep 21, 2022 20:18
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IncredibleIgloo posted:Question 1: Do I have to, or should I, re-level the plate every single print? 1 - I've owned a decent handful of resin printers over the last three years or so, and with the exception of my very first one, I leveled all of them exactly once. I admittedly haven't owned one of Elegoo's though, and the ball joint they use may be more susceptible to shifting than the ones I'm used to. One thing to make sure of is that you don't get resin down in that joint (if it's possible, again, I'm not familiar with the details of their mechanism) - it'll act as a lubricant and definitely not help things. 2 - Kind of up to you. I mean, it's just going to get resin on it again, so if you're going to print again immediately then I'd just let 'er rip. If it's going to be sitting idle for a while then maybe give it a quick wipe just so it doesn't drip. You'll probably find yourself having these various problems at first while you get used to the work flow, but it does get easier, I promise.  Unless you have a genuine lemon of a printer, most common failures are just operator error, and that's OK. There's a learning curve and we've all been there. Your pre-supported model issues are *extremely* common. They might work great with the designer's particular printer and resin combo (if they even test printed them) but after that all bets are off. I hate Hate HATE pre-supported stuff. But yes - all other things being equal, weak supports are generally an indicator of underexposure. If they don't get cured enough, they'll be too soft to support the weight of the model and/or handle the stress of peeling off the FEP between layers. (e) - I print everything at 0.05, even really teeny stuff. Personally just never saw any reason to go smaller. It's almost literally splitting hairs, as 50 microns is right at the edge of what the average human eye can resolve without magnification. Acid Reflux fucked around with this message at 21:22 on Sep 21, 2022 |
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Sep 21, 2022 21:17
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Casual Encountess posted:
Step back and run some calibration? Is that all spaghetti after a certain point or did something get knocked loose? Could have been unlucky and knocked something. Are you running crazy fast settings or anything?
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Sep 21, 2022 22:54
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Acid Reflux posted:1 - I've owned a decent handful of resin printers over the last three years or so, and with the exception of my very first one, I leveled all of them exactly once. I admittedly haven't owned one of Elegoo's though, and the ball joint they use may be more susceptible to shifting than the ones I'm used to. One thing to make sure of is that you don't get resin down in that joint (if it's possible, again, I'm not familiar with the details of their mechanism) - it'll act as a lubricant and definitely not help things. Thanks, this information was really helpful. I did a full wipedown and put the machine away until my next time off. I work 12 hour days so I don't have a lot of time to print during my off time. My last print had one major failure, one partial, and one piece that was warped. The full failure never made it on the plate, the warped one had some supports off the plate by a few mm, but since it is an edge piece of a tile map it is unfortunately borked, and one failed with the supports printing at first but then getting "smooshed" into the model, I am not sure what would cause that, but I imagine it is again bed adhesion. I am at recommended curing time for first layer at 35 seconds. What could go wrong if I increase this number? What increments should I increase it by?
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Sep 22, 2022 00:57
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IncredibleIgloo posted:Thanks, this information was really helpful. I did a full wipedown and put the machine away until my next time off. I work 12 hour days so I don't have a lot of time to print during my off time. My last print had one major failure, one partial, and one piece that was warped. The full failure never made it on the plate, the warped one had some supports off the plate by a few mm, but since it is an edge piece of a tile map it is unfortunately borked, and one failed with the supports printing at first but then getting "smooshed" into the model, I am not sure what would cause that, but I imagine it is again bed adhesion. I am at recommended curing time for first layer at 35 seconds. What could go wrong if I increase this number? What increments should I increase it by? Increasing in 5s will be meaningfull. Increasing it too much adds wear to the screen in theory, and can make removal from the plate harder. Look into flexplates if that's ever an issue, they're awesome
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Sep 22, 2022 01:09
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Dipping my toes back into printing for the first time in like 3 years. I've got some old rolls of PLA and PETG, still vacuum sealed, stored inside in climate controlled, typically low humidity, away from light. Would they still be good? Or is it too risky to use them? On the one hand I dislike waste, on the other hand this is for work and it's not my money, but screwing up a machine would be a headache I don't need. For what it's worth the PLA is not brittle at all.
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Sep 22, 2022 02:37
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Listerine posted:Dipping my toes back into printing for the first time in like 3 years. If they were sealed they’ll probably be totally fine.
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Sep 22, 2022 03:23
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yeah, drying isn't required until it prints bad and you eliminate all the other possible problems of bad bed level, too hot/cold, damaged rails, etc.
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Sep 22, 2022 13:29
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Re: the previous stuff about line width So if I understood the videos from Lost In Tech right, a printer can extrude up to ~4x the nozzle's width without any issues. Like obviously some resolution would be lost, and overhangs would be sketchier... But I could totally just set my 0.4 nozzle to 0.8 line width, halve my wall count, and get a good speed boost on anything where I don't care about details. Am I reading that right? Actually wait, with arachne dynamically changing line width, would I even lose any detail?
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Sep 22, 2022 17:22
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BadMedic posted:So if I understood the videos from Lost In Tech right, a printer can extrude up to ~4x the nozzle's width without any issues. Yes, and no. You're not going to get a speed boost pushing twice, or four times the filament through the same hole. Remember, you're still hot end limited. if your printer is "reasonably tuned" you're gonna be hot end limited anyway.
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Sep 22, 2022 17:37
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BadMedic posted:Like obviously some resolution would be lost, and overhangs would be sketchier... Sure! You'd get better layer adhesion and stronger walls (assuming the same perimeter width), but worse surface finish. If I'm printing something quick and dirty I usually go double for first layer and 120-150% for the rest.
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Sep 22, 2022 17:37
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Nerobro posted:Yes, and no. You're not going to get a speed boost pushing twice, or four times the filament through the same hole. Remember, you're still hot end limited. if your printer is "reasonably tuned" you're gonna be hot end limited anyway. Yeah I have the printer working at a decent speed, but I have not pushed to see why my hot end limits are (Neptune 3). Any advice on testing what that limit is?
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Sep 22, 2022 17:47
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Nerobro posted:Yes, and no. You're not going to get a speed boost pushing twice, or four times the filament through the same hole. Remember, you're still hot end limited. if your printer is "reasonably tuned" you're gonna be hot end limited anyway. ??? you won't print faster by pushing more plastic with fewer perimeters? are you completely positive about that? most people are not printing as fast as they possibly can and are not "hot end limited". you'll run into the maximum flow rate eventually, so if you're underextruding turn up the heat or get a volcano or something, but if a printer can't extrude 200% line widths from a .4 nozzle there's other stuff going on.
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Sep 22, 2022 17:48
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BadMedic posted:Yeah I have the printer working at a decent speed, but I have not pushed to see why my hot end limits are (Neptune 3). Any advice on testing what that limit is? I'm sure there's some sort of fancy test you can do, but I just crank it till the extruder starts skipping.
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Sep 22, 2022 17:49
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Amazon's got a deal of the day on some Creality printers and accessories: https://smile.amazon.com/deal/a421e632?showVariations=true Ender 3 V2 for $197, Ender 3 S1 for $320, HALOT ONE resin printer for $160 and some other stuff.
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Sep 22, 2022 17:57
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BadMedic posted:Yeah I have the printer working at a decent speed, but I have not pushed to see why my hot end limits are (Neptune 3). Any advice on testing what that limit is? Thankfully, most likely, someone else has done that work for you. The neptune is using a Mk8 style hot end? I think CNC kitchen has published his extrusion blob test, and you just need a scale to confirm the answers. Edit: Look, he did: https://www.cnckitchen.com/blog/extrusion-system-benchmark-tool-for-fast-prints Dr. Fishopolis posted:you won't print faster by pushing more plastic with fewer perimeters? are you completely positive about that? Depends on what your systems limit is. But when you're pushing plastic wider than the nozzle, you start ramping up hot end pressure and that has other effects. That's reduces your actual flow rate. It's now more likely you'll have other issues in your feed system (skipping stepper, extruder, etc) Also, when running higher hot end pressures, you're going to need to recalibrate your retraction. When I do wide prints with a .4 nozzle, it's usually for vase mode, where the other effects tend to not come into play. If you're printing slow enough that the backpressure doesn't affect you? Sweet. Dr. Fishopolis posted:I'm sure there's some sort of fancy test you can do, but I just crank it till the extruder starts skipping. This is a poor way to judge this. Because there's a lot of flow dropoff long before the skipping starts. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 18:36 on Sep 22, 2022 |
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Sep 22, 2022 18:33
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Nerobro posted:Thankfully, most likely, someone else has done that work for you. The neptune is using a Mk8 style hot end? I think CNC kitchen has published his extrusion blob test, and you just need a scale to confirm the answers. Cool, I will check that out later as I don't have a scale sensitive enough.
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Sep 22, 2022 18:47
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BadMedic posted:Cool, I will check that out later as I don't have a scale sensitive enough. This image should be about what your hot end is. (Linked, becuase I didn't re-host it) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/...ng?format=1500w So, somewhere a little more than 6mm^3/s Also, gram scale on amazon is $8? $12 at harbor freight. Assuming you're in the US. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 18:58 on Sep 22, 2022 |
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Sep 22, 2022 18:56
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Nerobro posted:So, somewhere a little more than 6mm^3/s huh, that's right about where I have it running (well, according to cura everything except infill is about right, and infill is almost 11mm^3/s whoops, no wonder it looks like crap when I watch it print)
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Sep 22, 2022 19:27
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Like honestly I'm sorta disappointed. I was all ready to get into some real tuning, but nope turns out the flow rate is actually pretty limiting, even on a standard 0.4 nozzle. I mean with that scale test and bumping the temp to 220 I can probably push it a bit more, but I assume any serious increases would involve modifying/changing the extruder, possibly even the power supply too. At least I know that whenever I bump it down to 0.10 layers, I have lots of room to crank the speed? Edit: Oh also IDK if this is the thread for this, but parametric modeling in CAD programs is so cool. The fact that I can give the computer a bunch of variables and constraints and it can figure out a shape from that is basically magic. Also being able to change a variable and see the whole model change is amazing. BadMedic fucked around with this message at 23:26 on Sep 22, 2022 |
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Sep 22, 2022 23:21
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Rexxed posted:Amazon's got a deal of the day on some Creality printers and accessories: drat you. The deal on the Ender 3 S1 is too good. It is basically the factory version of my Ender 3 v2 that I have spent the last 5 months customizing…but for less and pre-assembled. I guess I own two 3d printers, now.
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Sep 23, 2022 00:35
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I used Simplify3D for several years but it seems to be pretty dead now, I don't think there's been an update since I last used it. Is there a slicer that I should migrate to? I'm using an old Lulzbot Taz 5.
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Sep 23, 2022 00:38
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S3D is still the best at, like, 2 things. Things that may not be relevant to you (support & rafts). If you want two billion buttons and knobs to twiddle with, go for SuperSlicer.
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Sep 23, 2022 01:09
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For resin 3d printing, what makes a resin "Hard to print"? I was looking for specific settings for elegoo 8k resin on a Saturn 2 and a few of the reddit threads that turned up were talking about how it is a hard resin to print. Does that mean that the resin is just, for some reason, more prone to failure? Or does it take longer for exposure to work on it? My resin seems really frothy too, am I shaking it too much before adding it to the tray? Also, will I see any benefit of 8k resin at .05mm layer height? Or is 8k best for .02 or so and that is why I am having such a hard time with it? If I want to print at smaller layer heights how should I adjust the settings? Lower exposure, lower speeds? More initial layers? Elegoo has a helpful chart of resin settings but they are all based around .05 layer height. I also picked up about 5kg of Eco-Resin from Anycubic. With eco-resin/plant based resin are the cure times generally longer? Unfortunately the Elegoo chart does not have settings for this resin and the resin only has settings for Anycubic machines and those settings say an initial time of like 60 seconds, which seems like a long time!
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Sep 23, 2022 02:19
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Listerine posted:I used Simplify3D for several years but it seems to be pretty dead now, I don't think there's been an update since I last used it. I went from S3D to Prusaslicer. You wont regret it.
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Sep 23, 2022 03:09
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IncredibleIgloo posted:For resin 3d printing, what makes a resin "Hard to print"? I was looking for specific settings for elegoo 8k resin on a Saturn 2 and a few of the reddit threads that turned up were talking about how it is a hard resin to print. Does that mean that the resin is just, for some reason, more prone to failure? I can't speak for this instance, but I would imagine how temperature stable a resin is would definitely impact how hard a resin is to print with, especially if you're set up in a garage or other non-climate controlled space. Listerine posted:I used Simplify3D for several years but it seems to be pretty dead now, I don't think there's been an update since I last used it. Prusa Slicer is good
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Sep 23, 2022 03:11
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Neat, I thinkSteve Yun posted:https://twitter.com/masknerd/status/1572278186045472774?s=46&t=6hjV0FmDKVAJEqkcRTQBDA Probably need the teal part to be TPU, and then some sort of leak-down test button (or just locking caps for the filter holes)
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Sep 23, 2022 04:10
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That there is a nice big holy loving poo poo, and I appreciate what they're doing bigtime o7
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Sep 23, 2022 05:46
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ImplicitAssembler posted:I went from S3D to Prusaslicer. You wont regret it. I was always Cura until PrusaSlicer. The only time I go back to Cura is when I find myself needing tree supports over the standard style.
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Sep 23, 2022 11:42
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I received the mellow fly E3 pro control board yesterday, that I'm planning to retrofit into my prusa mk2.5s bear. I'm excited to try out RepRapFirmware for the first time. It seems to have good build quality, I think I read it has a 4 layer PCB. Has some weight to it, anyway. They included all the JST connectors pre-plugged into every connector on the board, and a small roll of the crimp terminals, that was unexpected but a nice surprise, I think the duet boards do the same thing because they use non-standard connectors. I also received these short adapter cables which will let me connect the prusa motors to the JST-XH connectors on the board without recrimping them (and the thermistor cables), so I'm not going to have to re-crimp *everything*, but it is going to be a lot of work. I'm concerned about power cable clearance with the control board housing I'm using, but I'll have to figure it out.
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Sep 23, 2022 17:19
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IncredibleIgloo posted:3D Printers: Excluding the thousand bucks in equipment and whatnot I am saving a ton of money
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Sep 23, 2022 17:24
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I'm in this post and I don't like it.
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Sep 23, 2022 17:38
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insta posted:S3D is still the best at, like, 2 things. Things that may not be relevant to you (support & rafts). If you want two billion buttons and knobs to twiddle with, go for SuperSlicer. I went from S3d to PrusaSlicer to Cura. The latest versions of Cura are actually really good. Also CHEP posted a bunch of fast Cura profiles which are awesome. Prusaslicer is good, but the interface is kind of dumb like Josef Prusa's face.
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Sep 23, 2022 18:17
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Doctor Zero posted:I went from S3d to PrusaSlicer to Cura. The latest versions of Cura are actually really good. Also CHEP posted a bunch of fast Cura profiles which are awesome. Prusaslicer is good, but the interface is kind of dumb like Josef Prusa's face. Careful or he'll take you out like he took out Sagebrush. Extruded through the Prusa XXL mk.Soylent.
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Sep 23, 2022 18:29
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Rexxed posted:Careful or he'll take you out like he took out Sagebrush. Extruded through the Prusa XXL mk.Soylent. I was gonna write a post defending Prusa and remembered Sagebrush as well 
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Sep 23, 2022 18:41
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