3D Printers: You can anneal some posts in a sous vide cooker

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insta: Jan 28, 2009

IncredibleIgloo posted:

Excluding the thousand bucks in equipment and whatnot I am saving a ton of money

thread title please mods

# ? Sep 23, 2022 18:47

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# ? May 30, 2024 12:19

dexefiend: Apr 25, 2003; THE GOGGLES DO NOTHING!

I just printed four cricket traps for my basement.

If I can get rid of the insect orchestra in my basement, it will be worth the cost of admission.

# ? Sep 23, 2022 19:01

BMan: Oct 31, 2015; KNIIIIIIFE
EEEEEYYYYE
ATTAAAACK

mewse posted:

I was gonna write a post defending Prusa and remembered Sagebrush as well

sagebrush is back

# ? Sep 23, 2022 19:08

Hadlock: Nov 9, 2004

insta posted:

thread title please mods

# ? Sep 23, 2022 19:29

Rexxed: May 1, 2010; Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

BMan posted:

sagebrush is back

...in pog form?

# ? Sep 23, 2022 19:33

BadMedic: Jul 22, 2007; I've never actually seen him heal anybody.; Pillbug

OK, I need some advice:
I'm trying to tune my Linear Advance in marlin, but the suggested tool doesn't seem to work properly.
https://marlinfw.org/tools/lin_advance/k-factor.html https://pastebin.com/wwBgpp4D (my generated code)

It primes, sorta, but it doesn't actually print anything in the actual test. With my (very) limited knowledge of g-code, I think I found their mistake:
They set the printer to absolute positioning, but every extruder move seems to assume relative positioning. So the extruder is just sorta pacing back and forth instead of actually, you know, extruding.

Is there an easy way to fix this, or should I find another tool to generate the g-code with (or am I totally misreading the issue and it's just user error?)

# ? Sep 23, 2022 19:37

mewse: May 2, 2006

BadMedic posted:

I think I found their mistake:
They set the printer to absolute positioning, but every extruder move seems to assume relative positioning. So the extruder is just sorta pacing back and forth instead of actually, you know, extruding.

I doubt that's the problem, from the gcode you linked:

code:

G90 ; Absolute XYZ
M83 ; Relative E

It sets extruder to relative positioning on the line right after setting XYZ to absolute.

Is the control board on your printer using marlin?

e: one thing you could do is compare the start gcode from the tool to your normal start gcode from your slicer

mewse fucked around with this message at 19:49 on Sep 23, 2022

# ? Sep 23, 2022 19:45

BadMedic: Jul 22, 2007; I've never actually seen him heal anybody.; Pillbug

mewse posted:

I doubt that's the problem, from the gcode you linked:
It sets extruder to relative positioning on the line right after setting XYZ to absolute.

Oh derp, totally missed reading that line
and yeah my printer is using marlin, with linear advance enabled.

here's the start comparison:

code:

The generated start:

G21 ; Millimeter units
G90 ; Absolute XYZ
M83 ; Relative E
T0 ; Switch to tool 0
M104 S210 ; Set nozzle temperature (no wait)
M190 S60 ; Set bed temperature (wait)
G28 ; Home all axes
G1 Z5 F100 ; Z raise
M109 S210 ; Wait for nozzle temp
M204 P1000 ; Acceleration
G92 E0 ; Reset extruder distance
M106 P0 S255
G1 X117.5 Y117.5 F5400 ; move to start
G1 Z0.3 F1200 ; Move to layer height
;
; prime nozzle
;
G1 X68.5 Y80 F5400 ; move to start
G1 X68.5 Y155 E11.2253 F1800 ; print line
G1 X69.22 Y155 F5400 ; move to start
G1 X69.22 Y80 E11.2253 F1800 ; print line
G1 E-6 F2700 ; retract  (this is followed up by an unretract before drawing the first line)

My printer's start:

G28 ;home 
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder 
G1 Z4.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up 
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder 
G1 X1.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position 
G1 X1.1 Y80.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E10 ;Draw the first line 
G1 X1.4 Y80.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little 
G1 X1.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E20 ;Draw the second line 
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder 
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up

They are doing things somewhat differently, but I don't see anything that would cause the print to just... not print.
Like the T0 isn't doing anything, I can physically see the extruder moving back and forth during the print.

Edit: just to make sure I didn't gently caress something up updating the firmware, I did a first layer test print and it came out fine. Z-offset is perfect.

BadMedic fucked around with this message at 20:23 on Sep 23, 2022

# ? Sep 23, 2022 20:11

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Rexxed posted:

...in pog form?

A series of NFT images

# ? Sep 23, 2022 20:16

mewse: May 2, 2006

BadMedic posted:

Like the T0 isn't doing anything, I can physically see the extruder moving back and forth during the print.

I'd comment out the "Switch to tool 0" line

# ? Sep 23, 2022 20:38

BadMedic: Jul 22, 2007; I've never actually seen him heal anybody.; Pillbug

OK I think I know what's going on, and I'm just confused.

So I did some math, and my first layer test print is extruding ~2.2mm for every mm of tool movement
this linear advance test is extruding... ~0.05mm for every mm of tool movement

So the reason it's not printing poo poo is because the extruder isn't doing anything.

Edit: to prove my work

code:

0.3mm layer test gcode:
G0 F2100 X54.829 Y128.463
G1 F1500 X54.829 Y116.683 E26.45629
~12mm moved, ~26mm extruded

linear advance code:
G1 X78.5 Y80 F5400 ; move to start
...
G1 X98.5 Y80 E1.1974 F1200 ; print line
20mm moved, ~1mm extruded

Like I have the settings right, 1.75mm filament, 0.4 nozzle, 0.3 layer height...

BadMedic fucked around with this message at 20:52 on Sep 23, 2022

# ? Sep 23, 2022 20:47

Terminus Est: Sep 30, 2005; Motorcycle Miliitia

Any suggestions for a ~US$6-800ish FDM printer? Seems like a weird space in the market. Currently eyeing the FlashForge Adventurer 4.

# ? Sep 23, 2022 22:23

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Terminus Est posted:

Any suggestions for a ~US$6-800ish FDM printer? Seems like a weird space in the market. Currently eyeing the FlashForge Adventurer 4.

Prusa mk3s+ or whatever the gently caress model name is these days

# ? Sep 23, 2022 22:37

Chernabog: Apr 16, 2007

Is it possible to iron the flat surfaces of a print to smooth them out?
I'm printing metallic PLA and tried to sand it but it takes out the shine from it.

# ? Sep 24, 2022 19:01

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Chernabog posted:

Is it possible to iron the flat surfaces of a print to smooth them out?
I'm printing metallic PLA and tried to sand it but it takes out the shine from it.

Like with an actual iron? Unlikely. You�d have to keep the heat in a narrow range and put something flat I. Between to keep the iron from sticking.

You could however enable ironing in your slicer if that�s a feature it has. It uses the nozzle heat to kind of glaze the upper surfaces flat. Works pretty well too.

# ? Sep 24, 2022 19:11

Chernabog: Apr 16, 2007

Yeah, I was thinking I could try with some baking paper or aluminum foil in between, and just sorta do a quick pass. I guess I can try it since it's only on a 1hr print so if it gets ruined I don't care.
Oh, and my printer is an E3 pro, dunno if it has that setting.

Chernabog fucked around with this message at 19:28 on Sep 24, 2022

# ? Sep 24, 2022 19:24

Dr. Fishopolis: Aug 31, 2004; ROBOT

Ironing is a slicer feature, it doesn't matter what printer you use.

Also, is this metal powder fill PLA or "metallic" looking silk PLA?

If it's the former, you just need to wet sand with progressively finer grits and give it a good buff at the end to bring back the shine and let it patina. If it's the latter, well it's the same set of steps but with a lot more work.

Sanding any surface will take the shine off it unless you smooth and polish it after, it's just the nature of things.

# ? Sep 24, 2022 20:10

Chernabog: Apr 16, 2007

I don't have the box anymore but I believe it is silk PLA. I'll look into the iron feature in Cura.

# ? Sep 24, 2022 20:23

Vaporware: May 22, 2004; Still not here yet.

just printed a cool vase mode shelf, but noticed a spiral pattern in the layers. I've seen tips about it before but don't remember what it is? Loose belts?

# ? Sep 25, 2022 01:18

mewse: May 2, 2006

Vaporware posted:

I've seen tips about it before but don't remember what it is? Loose belts?

There was a guy on youtube who showed that if bondtech gears arent aligned 100% it could cause a pattern like that

# ? Sep 25, 2022 01:33

Nerobro: Nov 4, 2005; Rider now with 100% more titanium!

Vaporware posted:

just printed a cool vase mode shelf, but noticed a spiral pattern in the layers. I've seen tips about it before but don't remember what it is? Loose belts?

Most likely, that's your extruder. In some way or another. A slightly out of round drive gear, the gear mesh if you have a dual gear extruder. It's a thing the community still hasn't entirely figured out.

I have ideas, but not enough time.

A longer bowden tube can help.

# ? Sep 25, 2022 02:02

Vaporware: May 22, 2004; Still not here yet.

Thanks, it's a mk3s so I'll check the bondtech gears eventually. It was more surprising than concerning

# ? Sep 25, 2022 02:06

IncredibleIgloo: Feb 17, 2011

Is that perhaps a method selected for hiding the Z seam? It might be interesting to look at the start position of the layers in the slicer and see if it follows a similar pattern.

Maybe the spool is slightly out of round and it gets hung up momentarily and has very slightly different extrusion characteristics every so often. But if that were the case the distance between the spots would change as the spool depletes.

# ? Sep 25, 2022 02:37

w00tmonger: Mar 9, 2011; F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Chernabog posted:

I don't have the box anymore but I believe it is silk PLA. I'll look into the iron feature in Cura.

Iron will smooth it out, but I've found it completely nukes the surface finish of silk pla so be warned

Vaporware posted:

just printed a cool vase mode shelf, but noticed a spiral pattern in the layers. I've seen tips about it before but don't remember what it is? Loose belts?

i had this recently and it was my spool holder. Wasn't perfectly round and was causing a change in tension to the extruder every rotation.

w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 02:40 on Sep 25, 2022

# ? Sep 25, 2022 02:38

Hadlock: Nov 9, 2004

IncredibleIgloo posted:

Is that perhaps a method selected for hiding the Z seam? It might be interesting to look at the start position of the layers in the slicer and see if it follows a similar pattern.

Vase mode has no Z seam, unless you've really hosed up somehow

# ? Sep 25, 2022 02:48

IncredibleIgloo: Feb 17, 2011

Good to know about Vase mode.

I just had my most successful resin print, which is a great feeling! No failures so no tank cleanup needed and I can move right on to the next print. If I have some larger pieces that have warped ever so slightly is there a way to get them back in shape? Can I use hot water or something to bend them back correctly? I am not sure exactly what caused the pieces to warp but I think I may have not let them dry long enough before curing.

# ? Sep 25, 2022 05:51

Nerobro: Nov 4, 2005; Rider now with 100% more titanium!

Vaporware posted:

Thanks, it's a mk3s so I'll check the bondtech gears eventually. It was more surprising than concerning

If it "is a thing" for you, perhaps prusa will send you a new set of gears? This is a "known problem" on the prusa forums. It's "issue 6" for the Voron people. The closer your filament drive is to the nozzle, and the less springy the feed is, the more this shows up.

Since we're here maybe we should talk about it? Gears are ~damned good~ but also.. imperfect. So are chains. In an ideal world, the contact between gear teeth would always happen exactly at the same place. But.. they don't. As the gearset turns, that contact point, wanders. That wandering means the angle transferred from one tooth to the other is just a little different as each tooth engages. If you've ever watched video that has in car footage of a race car, you'll hear that gearbox whine. Or if you're using reverse gear on a manual car. The variances in angle between each tooth comes out as sound in a car. And we see it as waves in our prints. You can see per tooth artifacts, and you can also see per revolution artifacts. For instance, if a drive gear isn't exactly centered on the shaft, you'll get a flow change that matches the distance from the shaft center.

So, gears are old tech. You'd think we'd have ways to deal with this. And we do! For the per rotation artifacts, that's just a question of having better fit between the drive gear and the shaft it's riding on. For per tooth artifacts, there's something called a helical gear, which keeps the tooth contact at the same point all the time. Same as that fancy transmission in your car doesn't have gear whine anymore.

I did see a company selling some gears with helical cut teeth. That.. makes me happy.

Another source of artifcating, is that a lot of our dual gear drive setups, use gear lash as their method for adjusting for filament size. And if you don't have the gear lines matched, even with helical you're going to get tooth by tooth artifacts. This could be overcome with a belt drive (Hey proper printing..) or with a pair of idler gears to isolate the gear lines.

(Uh... I'm a gear nerd because it was the family business until 6 months ago.)

This is also why I'm something of a fan of single gear drives for filament.

Nerobro fucked around with this message at 07:49 on Sep 25, 2022

# ? Sep 25, 2022 06:37

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

IncredibleIgloo posted:

Can I use hot water or something to bend them back correctly? I am not sure exactly what caused the pieces to warp but I think I may have not let them dry long enough before curing.

Yes, that will work a treat.

Lots of reasons for warping. What you said, or it was leaning against something else for a while, or so one bent it. Nbd really since you can just bend it back.

# ? Sep 25, 2022 14:52

Vaporware: May 22, 2004; Still not here yet.

w00tmonger posted:

i had this recently and it was my spool holder. Wasn't perfectly round and was causing a change in tension to the extruder every rotation.

I'll look at the sunlu heater because it happens for both a nearly empty roll of orange and for the new green I just loaded.

Nerobro posted:

Gears are ~damned good~ but also.. imperfect.

Very interesting. I expected some artifacts, but it makes sense that it is very visible when the gears are the problem.

I recently tore the extruder down so I will make sure it wasnt a reassembly error, but yeah I will contact prusa for replacements.

# ? Sep 25, 2022 15:13

Serenade: Nov 5, 2011; "I should really learn to fucking read"

Does anyone have experience with a ratrig v-core?

I've been eyeing a second printer for a while and narrowed it down to either a Voron Trident or a Ratrig v-core. They seem extremely similar except the Ratrig goes up to 500mm and uses PETG parts (despite recommending against that if you use an enclosure, which they sell as an option). There are other fancy features I want, but aftermarket support for those seems consistent between the two. Stuff like multi material or mid print tool swapping.

Whats really tripping me up in a way I can't figure out: a 500mm Ratrig kit is more expensive than most 350mm Trident Voron kits, which is obvious. But the difference is not as much as I expected. Buying from a single source also saves the time of having to track down and verify sourcing the parts myself. Is there like a significant drop in quality between the two? I assumed scaling things up would dramatically increase the price.

# ? Sep 25, 2022 15:38

Droogie: Mar 21, 2007; But what I do
I do
because I like to do.

Is there any specific, technical reason why the extruder gear is brass? I work with metal for my job and I know the properties of it, but is there a downside to replacing a worn gear with a steel one instead? I just saw my gear is effectively worn to the point of being almost useless at this point.

# ? Sep 25, 2022 17:48

Nerobro: Nov 4, 2005; Rider now with 100% more titanium!

Serenade posted:

Does anyone have experience with a ratrig v-core?

I've been eyeing a second printer for a while and narrowed it down to either a Voron Trident or a Ratrig v-core. They seem extremely similar except the Ratrig goes up to 500mm and uses PETG parts (despite recommending against that if you use an enclosure, which they sell as an option). There are other fancy features I want, but aftermarket support for those seems consistent between the two. Stuff like multi material or mid print tool swapping.

Whats really tripping me up in a way I can't figure out: a 500mm Ratrig kit is more expensive than most 350mm Trident Voron kits, which is obvious. But the difference is not as much as I expected. Buying from a single source also saves the time of having to track down and verify sourcing the parts myself. Is there like a significant drop in quality between the two? I assumed scaling things up would dramatically increase the price.

To hit the most important questions first. Assuming you mean "quality of the prints" no, there's not inherently a big difference between the printers. What gets you voron print quality, is doing your setup and tuning with the voron philosophy. That works on any printer. The magic in a voron is "not the printer".. generally speaking.

The reduction in the difference in price, is because the ratrig printers have "less". They're not coming with an enclosure. They're generally not as complete as the Voron designs.

I am generally against ratrig, becuase they scream second generation reprap to me. They look lumpy, and clunky to me. And each feature seems.. tacked on, and they don't seem to be designed as a coherent whole. Or... from another angle they look like a VK or V1 series printer. And the community feels.. very... ender-ish. And I generally dislike the people who are pro-ratrig on youtube. (Eg: DPT, Teaching Tech)

Droogie posted:

Is there any specific, technical reason why the extruder gear is brass? I work with metal for my job and I know the properties of it, but is there a downside to replacing a worn gear with a steel one instead? I just saw my gear is effectively worn to the point of being almost useless at this point.

No. Except most steel drive gears on the market are a different diameter from the brass ones. At their price, I'd probally just go for another brass one.

# ? Sep 25, 2022 17:51

Droogie: Mar 21, 2007; But what I do
I do
because I like to do.

Nerobro posted:

No. Except most steel drive gears on the market are a different diameter from the brass ones. At their price, I'd probally just go for another brass one.

That's really good to know. I was leaning toward an oem replacement anyway, it's lasted more than 2 years as it is.

E: I just rifled through the box of all the old parts I pulled off and found an old gear that is barely used, so I get to resume today's print anyway. I'll order some more brass ones. They're cheap as hell as it is.

Droogie fucked around with this message at 18:08 on Sep 25, 2022

# ? Sep 25, 2022 17:54

w00tmonger: Mar 9, 2011; F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Anyone happen to know what I need to change in my ender 3's firmware to set the 0,0 position on the bed?

It's shifted a little bit on me since adding a new hotend mount,but is relevant now that I have a bltouch

# ? Sep 25, 2022 20:06

Acid Reflux: Oct 18, 2004

If it's still on Marlin, I think this is what you want unless I'm misunderstanding the command.

https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M206.html

# ? Sep 25, 2022 20:26

cruft: Oct 25, 2007

I'm on revision number 46 of this car part model. They're getting better. The last one I had to remove in pieces: took about 10 minutes.

Wish me luck.

According to printables.com, at least one other person has downloaded the v1 part. So maybe eventually I'll save enough people a pain in the butt that all this work will have been worth it.

e: IT WOrkS!!! HAHAhaAhAHaHAHAHA! Only 6 months of work!

cruft fucked around with this message at 23:47 on Sep 25, 2022

# ? Sep 25, 2022 21:41

Serenade: Nov 5, 2011; "I should really learn to fucking read"

Nerobro posted:

To hit the most important questions first. Assuming you mean "quality of the prints" no, there's not inherently a big difference between the printers. What gets you voron print quality, is doing your setup and tuning with the voron philosophy. That works on any printer. The magic in a voron is "not the printer".. generally speaking.

The reduction in the difference in price, is because the ratrig printers have "less". They're not coming with an enclosure. They're generally not as complete as the Voron designs.

I am generally against ratrig, becuase they scream second generation reprap to me. They look lumpy, and clunky to me. And each feature seems.. tacked on, and they don't seem to be designed as a coherent whole. Or... from another angle they look like a VK or V1 series printer. And the community feels.. very... ender-ish. And I generally dislike the people who are pro-ratrig on youtube. (Eg: DPT, Teaching Tech)

No. Except most steel drive gears on the market are a different diameter from the brass ones. At their price, I'd probally just go for another brass one.

Oh I meant quality of parts that go into the printer itself. For example, the classic Ender 3 extruder arm that will crack given enough time.

I'm not sure what you mean by "second generation reprap" or the community. It's a tool so worst case scenario, can't you just leave the specific community?

# ? Sep 26, 2022 02:10

Nerobro: Nov 4, 2005; Rider now with 100% more titanium!

Serenade posted:

Oh I meant quality of parts that go into the printer itself. For example, the classic Ender 3 extruder arm that will crack given enough time.

I'm not sure what you mean by "second generation reprap" or the community. It's a tool so worst case scenario, can't you just leave the specific community?

Sadly I can't speak to the included parts in the RatRigs. I'm sure they're good enough not to have to worry about it. Though that does lead into a thing for Voron. There's a lot of information, and testing, and tuning, for individual parts. If you want, or need, a super tight X rail... they can tell you what to buy and from exactly where.

We're deep into "nerobro's opinion" territory here.

The first repraps were fingertraps of small printed parts and threaded rod, the model was called Darwin. https://reprap.org/wiki/File:All_3_axes_fdmd_sml.jpg The second generation (Mendel) were "better" and most of the parts were mounted to the same printer, but were still a great big contraption of slapped on parts. https://reprap.org/wiki/File:Mendel.jpg Ratrig gives me Mendel vibes. Between the big brackets, and cap head screws sticking out everywhere. Ratrigs feel... very assembled from a parts catalog, and not in a good way. As opposed to coherent whole.

Community matters. Especially on a printer that is kit based, as opposed to self sourced. If a thing goes wrong, or there's a question, or there's "a thing" with your printer. The place you're most likely to go to first, is the community of people who've built them. Sure, you can leave the community. But why plant your flag with ~them~ to start with?

# ? Sep 26, 2022 02:52

Vaporware: May 22, 2004; Still not here yet.

speaking of community, thanks for the suggestions. I was going to run each one independently, but I had to cut my diagnosis short, so it was one of those two things mentioned earlier.

I opened the idler and cleared a tiny bit of fluff, but really didn't see anything strange. I tried to make sure those little lines on the bondtechs were aligned when I closed the extruder but lol I can't see in there.

I also took a dessicant pack out of the sunlu, perhaps it was sticking on each revolution?

Either way no more diagonal patterning

# ? Sep 26, 2022 13:52

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# ? May 30, 2024 12:19

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Vaporware posted:

I also took a dessicant pack out of the sunlu, perhaps it was sticking on each revolution?

you mean it was sill inside the spool while it was on the printer? Yeah, that could very well have been it

# ? Sep 26, 2022 14:28

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses > 3D Printers: You can anneal some posts in a sous vide cooker

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