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moths
Aug 25, 2004

I would also still appreciate some danger.



Part of the issue is that when your printer is working fine, there's no reason to come into the thread and post about it. So you get a disproportionally negative impression.

I just finished printing 30+ Horus Heresy Marines for a friend, they're cool as gently caress and cost me less than a bottle of resin. He's trading me some vintage figures to more than pay for my time, and I have enough leftover parts to make a kill-team for myself.

It's definitely a hobby of its own, but being able to spin figures from goo is like sorcery. And you don't necessarily need a commercial license to trade prints or print as favors.

I'm looking into going semi-pro long enough to buy a bigger bed printer, but that's maybe a next year thing.

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bird food bathtub
Aug 9, 2003

College Slice
Seeing my Tyranid army be slowly birthed out of a tank of goo feels very appropriate. Think Necrons might be next but my next major investment is an air brush for priming then back in to painting. So that's my story of a lot of successful printing.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


me when my printer acts up: lousy cnc glue gun piece of poo poo :mad:

me when my printer works: i wield the power of a GOD :science: and by my WILL the IMAGINARY is made MANIFEST. :science:

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

PROCEED

moths posted:

Part of the issue is that when your printer is working fine, there's no reason to come into the thread and post about it. So you get a disproportionally negative impression.

Very true! I'm using a Photon Mono X that, up till yesterday, hasn't had any problems and has been working like a champ. I'm going to try to flash the firmware and see if that helps but yeah, all the issues only just started and otherwise I don't have too many reasons to post in this thread.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice
FINE! I just ordered a Mono 4k :cry:

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Been using my Saturn and Phrozen Sonic Mighty to print minis and couldn't be happier, for another positive account :)

Marshal Prolapse
Jun 23, 2012

by Jeffrey of YOSPOS

Deviant posted:

me when my printer acts up: lousy cnc glue gun piece of poo poo :mad:

me when my printer works: i wield the power of a GOD :science: and by my WILL the IMAGINARY is made MANIFEST. :science:

:hmmyes:

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

PROCEED
Update: we printin'

Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007

I've been having the worst time of it lately. Haven't had a print where I don't have at least a 50% failure rate in five prints. Starting to think I just got a busted bottle of resin.

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

PROCEED
One thing I can pass on from testing this week is that I used the Cones of Calibration from https://www.tableflipfoundry.com/ to dial in my printer in it's new (temperature controlled but cooler) location. I like it a lot more than the flat XP2 validation matrix.

Doctor Zero
Sep 21, 2002

Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Geisladisk posted:

I've been having the worst time of it lately. Haven't had a print where I don't have at least a 50% failure rate in five prints. Starting to think I just got a busted bottle of resin.

It happens. What’s the temperature where you are printing? This is the time of year that temps drop. Resin printers really don’t like temps below 70f. You start to get odd random fails like that.

Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007

It has been 15-17°c (so 60-63f), down from 20-25 in the summer. I'm not used to temperatures in that range causing issues, I've printed as low as 5°c with no issues.

Then again that was with a different resin. I might try cranking the heat a little if the current print fails.

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

PROCEED
That's about where my space is at, around the 63-65F mark, which necessitated bumping up my exposure time from 1.5 to 2.45 seconds. But I did get a new negative mold out of my work!

Communist Thoughts
Jan 7, 2008

Our war against free speech cannot end until we silence this bronze beast!


Mono 4k is what I have too and it was pretty cheap and I've printed easily thousands of quids worth of models and now I sculpt and print my own stuff

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008


Grimey Drawer
I solved my problem! Resin had somehow gotten cured under the edge of the vat, so my fep got messed up after a print or two. I've switched to an aluminium vat and all is well.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

Communist Thoughts posted:

Mono 4k is what I have too and it was pretty cheap and I've printed easily thousands of quids worth of models and now I sculpt and print my own stuff

I eventually want to model my own stuff, which is how I justified getting the printer finally :v:

Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007

Geisladisk posted:

I've been having the worst time of it lately. Haven't had a print where I don't have at least a 50% failure rate in five prints. Starting to think I just got a busted bottle of resin.

Turns out the model line I was trying to print is just presupported like absolute loving garbage. Every model has absolutely tons of unsupported islands. :shrug:

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Geisladisk posted:

Turns out the model line I was trying to print is just presupported like absolute loving garbage. Every model has absolutely tons of unsupported islands. :shrug:

Yeah that'll do it sometimes. I get periods of time where my fialure rates shoot up and I always have a few things that are usually the culprit.

-Is it way colder out than usual? Might need to heat the resin, the enclosure etc.
-relevel the plate. Something may have bumped it a small amount and can cause a ton of issues.
-fep might be scratched, dented etc. This can cause release issues, and eventually risks creating a hole and a big mess.
-printers age, and have an increase in exposure over time.
-check resin settings. It's possible that your over/under exposing and never caught it. Really easy not to notice this and it can start failing when compounded with other issues.

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

I've mentioned it before, but after watching a couple of videos by Lukes APS/Geek Gaming Scenics, I concur with his view that a lot of resin printing failures are due to the print speeds just being way too fast, even at default settings, and it's better to just slow down to between 40-60 mm/s. Ever since I did that I get waaaay fewer failures. The downside is the prints take a lot longer to complete, but I'd rather have a 6 to 8 hour print that's 100% successful at the end, than a 3 or 4 hour print that's mostly or completely stuck to the FEP.

Ego Trip
Aug 28, 2012

A tenacious little mouse!


Don't need to print faster than you can paint anyway.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

Ego Trip posted:

Don't need to print faster than you can paint anyway.

So I should print 20 minis a year. Check.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Sydney Bottocks posted:

I've mentioned it before, but after watching a couple of videos by Lukes APS/Geek Gaming Scenics, I concur with his view that a lot of resin printing failures are due to the print speeds just being way too fast, even at default settings, and it's better to just slow down to between 40-60 mm/s. Ever since I did that I get waaaay fewer failures. The downside is the prints take a lot longer to complete, but I'd rather have a 6 to 8 hour print that's 100% successful at the end, than a 3 or 4 hour print that's mostly or completely stuck to the FEP.

I think the trick is to to either extreme. My counter example is I crank it up to 240 and really don't see failures 99% of the time

When I suddenly start seeing them, im not sure that speeds were necessarily the issue.

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

w00tmonger posted:

I think the trick is to to either extreme. My counter example is I crank it up to 240 and really don't see failures 99% of the time

When I suddenly start seeing them, im not sure that speeds were necessarily the issue.

Are they failures where the print stuck to the FEP, or where one part of the mini failed because it was undersupported? I usually see the latter when I have failures ever since I started slowing my prints down, while I think I've seen the former like maybe twice since doing that.

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

PROCEED

w00tmonger posted:

I think the trick is to to either extreme. My counter example is I crank it up to 240 and really don't see failures 99% of the time

When I suddenly start seeing them, im not sure that speeds were necessarily the issue.

I've seen some folks opine the same thing, that being 'slow' or 'fast' are both better than trying to be 'average'. Like you'll see good success rates at 60mm/m and 240mm/m but you'll get more failures at, say, 130mm/m. It's a weird bell curve where slow speeds or fast speeds work best but speeds in the middle of the road suck.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Sydney Bottocks posted:

Are they failures where the print stuck to the FEP, or where one part of the mini failed because it was undersupported? I usually see the latter when I have failures ever since I started slowing my prints down, while I think I've seen the former like maybe twice since doing that.

I usually see stuck to the fep, but again, I think once you start seeing failures at all it's kind of the wild west trying to diagnose things.

So many factors in why something might fail in resin and they're all interrelated. At that point I think it makes more sense to programitcally start over, rather than diagnose the exact reason things are failing

Eediot Jedi
Dec 25, 2007

This is where I begin to speculate what being a
man of my word costs me

IMO 3d resin printing is still firmly in the dark magic, praying to uncaring gods stage. Which is also why people get evangelical about tuning the FEP, using fast/slow speeds, lift height etc. I've done more harm than good trying to diagnose problems, these days I tend to wait until a problem occurs repeatedly, and then I do a basic rear end test print, before I do any trouble shooting.

Lumpy posted:

So I should print 20 minis a year. Check.

Settle down there turbo no need to make the rest of us look bad.

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

w00tmonger posted:

I usually see stuck to the fep, but again, I think once you start seeing failures at all it's kind of the wild west trying to diagnose things.

So many factors in why something might fail in resin and they're all interrelated. At that point I think it makes more sense to programitcally start over, rather than diagnose the exact reason things are failing

I agree for the most part, but again after slowing my print speeds down I've only had "stuck to the FEP" failures like two or three times (and oddly enough, all on my Sonic Mighty; the Saturn hasn't had one since I slowed print speeds down on that). Not saying that's a universal fix that will work for everyone, but it's worked pretty well for me thus far.

Ego Trip
Aug 28, 2012

A tenacious little mouse!


Since I built a heated box, all my failures have been bad supports or leveling issues.

The Demilich
Apr 9, 2020

The First Rites of Men Were Mortuary, the First Altars Tombs.



Any tips for what kind of vehicles I should try printing via fdm?

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice
My wash & cure station has arrived! Printer will still be a few days, which is fine, since I have to make space, build a heater box type thing, etc. Excited to start futzing with things! Question about washing: I see a vast majority of people wash with IPA, but the manual for the washer says "alcohol, detergent solution, etc." and I saw someone mention they used some sort of cleaner (LA's Awesome or something like that?) mixed with water. Does one perform better in any way? Is one safer?

bird food bathtub
Aug 9, 2003

College Slice
IPA is cheaper and evaporates quickly.

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes
and IPA can be safely and somewhat easily recycled to be reused multiple times.

Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug
I tried a few alternatives and Simple Green was the cheaper option if you get the concentrate jugs and dilute it, but it did leave a slick residue on the models that required me to wash them in water afterward. I didn't think the extra step was worth the savings. Denatured alcohol is another one that got popular during caronavirus when ipa was hard to get, never tried it though.

Funzo
Dec 6, 2002



Simple Green will dissolve the magnets at the bottom of your wash station tub. Guess how I know.

Toebone
Jul 1, 2002

Start remembering what you hear.
What’s everyone’s go-to resin for minis these days? I got a bunch of Anycubic Basic Grey for half price and it’s fine for bigger stuff, but it’s too brittle for tiny detailed things

PleasantDirge
Sep 7, 2009
ASK ME ABOUT HOW NOT BEING A FUCKING ASSHOLE ON THE ROAD IS JUST LIKE BEING A JEW AT A NAZI GATHERING BECAUSE I CAN NOT UNDERSTAND HOW TO NOT BE A FUCKING ASSHOLE AND WHEN PEOPLE TREAT ME LIKE I'M A FUCKING ASSHOLE THAT IS JUST LIKE GENOCIDE

Toebone posted:

What’s everyone’s go-to resin for minis these days? I got a bunch of Anycubic Basic Grey for half price and it’s fine for bigger stuff, but it’s too brittle for tiny detailed things

I haven't mixed any tenacious in yet like everyone says but I'm already in love w/ my sirayatech fast bc it's $20 a liter. It's def more stinky than my elegoo/anycubic resins but for the price I could not care less about the odor

Doctor Zero
Sep 21, 2002

Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Phrozen Aqua 4K gray. Not the blue or green.

It’s durable but not brittle.

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes

Doctor Zero posted:

Phrozen Aqua 4K gray. Not the blue or green.

It’s durable but not brittle.

Same, it's a bit more expensive, but I think it's well worth it.

Scipiotik
Mar 2, 2004

"I would have won the race but for that."
I've been mixing in tenacious with fast in about a 5-1 (fast-tenacious) ratio. Still prints fast, haven't had any failures, stuff still breaks when i drop it onto a tile floor, but more durable to just little bumps.

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w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Toebone posted:

What’s everyone’s go-to resin for minis these days? I got a bunch of Anycubic Basic Grey for half price and it’s fine for bigger stuff, but it’s too brittle for tiny detailed things

Atlas Is great and comes in bags, but they're Canadian availability has been a pain.

Real answer is sirayatech navy grey with some tenacious. Their normal grey is great too

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