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NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
Broke down all the plywood for the next set of cubbies. Decided to use the track saw outside since running a full sheet over my tablesaw solo is sketchy.
Used my homemade parallel guides.

Turns out piledriving the sheets onto the table was too much for the legs.

Was able to bend it back, grind off the paint, and weld it back up


Got back to work. 8 sheets made 24 strips:


Which then had to get carried into the basement. I trued up the edges on the table saw, ran a 1/4" dado along one edge, and cross cut 8 of the pieces to be the vertical dividers.

I'm sore.

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Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May
I like my bandsaw. I like it more than any of my other power tools. But man, after swapping resaw and curve cutting blades back and forth I am ready to just buy a turning saw. What a pain in the rear end.

Shelvocke
Aug 6, 2013

Microwave Engraver


I don't think this thread likes resin but here's some anyway. Decided that brass would contrast nicely with the walnut. Pretty pleased with it to be honest.

I made a few (a lot) of mistakes but it worked out in the end. I think I'm going to make oak legs, and keep the walnut I have for something else.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

Shelvocke posted:



I don't think this thread likes resin but here's some anyway. Decided that brass would contrast nicely with the walnut. Pretty pleased with it to be honest.

I made a few (a lot) of mistakes but it worked out in the end. I think I'm going to make oak legs, and keep the walnut I have for something else.

That's looks fantastic. Well done.

The resin is a good choice. It clearly says "I'm not wood" so my brain can just kind of ignore it.

Jhet
Jun 3, 2013
I think it depends on how you use the resin. That compliments the wood pretty well and you have every reason to be happy with that.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Shelvocke posted:



I don't think this thread likes resin but here's some anyway. Decided that brass would contrast nicely with the walnut. Pretty pleased with it to be honest.

I made a few (a lot) of mistakes but it worked out in the end. I think I'm going to make oak legs, and keep the walnut I have for something else.

The thread loves gorgeous walnut and will forgive you. Go forth and resin no more, my son. jk, keep on resinning :yeshaha:

Jhet
Jun 3, 2013
Yeah, there’s definitely a difference between using resin well and just making a giant table that’s 40% resin with a bunch of dyes that are then poorly sanded and polished.

Also that walnut is pure money.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
That top deserves the walnut for the legs IMO

Shelvocke
Aug 6, 2013

Microwave Engraver


Thanks goons. Now for the not so good. As I chamfered the edge and sanded back the messy resin from the mould, I saw that during the pour the brass was so dense it had all sunk (I did the pour upside down.) I should have done 5+ very thin layers instead of 2.

I can't work out of I want to leave it or try and alive off the end back towards the rest of the table, or just enjoy the unusual of it.

Shelvocke fucked around with this message at 20:30 on Oct 17, 2022

shut up blegum
Dec 17, 2008


--->Plastic Lawn<---
It looks tasty

Serenade
Nov 5, 2011

"I should really learn to fucking read"
I quite like that table.

Resin is powerful. It lends itself to a huge range of colors, effects, and details while also providing a consistent surface. Which is also why it can look like garbage.

For every tasteful off-white next to walnut, there's a "I dumped a bunch of bullet cases in a pile and now it's a table, yes I left the bark on"

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
Goddam that fuckin grain looks god enough to gently caress.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Shelvocke posted:



Thanks goons. Now for the not so good. As I chamfered the edge and sanded back the messy resin from the mould, I saw that during the pour the brass was so dense it had all sunk (I did the pour upside down.) I should have done 5+ very thin layers instead of 2.

I can't work out of I want to leave it or try and alive off the end back towards the rest of the table, or just enjoy the unusual of it.
Gold/brass/silver leaf the rest of the resin. would looks cool as heck.

Buck Turgidson
Feb 6, 2011

𓀬𓀠𓀟𓀡𓀢𓀣𓀤𓀥𓀞𓀬
Wow that dustbin really is pretty

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Resin is fine. I complain about it as much as anyone, but I use it a ton too. I just think that it should be used for stabilizing wood and filling flaws and as an accent, not as a primary material in itself. You did the former here and it looks great.

A Real Happy Camper
Dec 11, 2007

These children have taught me how to believe.
How the hell do I drill decently vertical holes without a drill press? Usually it's not a big deal if things go a bit off kilter, but my embroidery frame is a little bit wonky due to my holes not being the straightest.

I used to have a drill with a little level on the back, but that was 2 cities ago, and my current work bench isn't level to begin with, so it wouldn't help a lot.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

A Real Happy Camper posted:

How the hell do I drill decently vertical holes without a drill press? Usually it's not a big deal if things go a bit off kilter, but my embroidery frame is a little bit wonky due to my holes not being the straightest.

I used to have a drill with a little level on the back, but that was 2 cities ago, and my current work bench isn't level to begin with, so it wouldn't help a lot.

You can clamp a square to the piece and use the vertical to keep you reasonably aligned.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
There's drilling jigs you can buy that clamp onto the wood and give you a guide hole to drill through. The phrase is "self-centering doweling jig". They're handy for hogging out mortises, doing dowel-based floating tenons, that kind of thing.

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name
You can build a jig made of two small pieces of wood mitered at 90° and just put the drill bit down in the corner.

A Wizard of Goatse
Dec 14, 2014

I see people using resin fills as an inlay material at Roycroft shows, p sure it's officially a fusty traditional woodcraft technique now


A Real Happy Camper posted:

How the hell do I drill decently vertical holes without a drill press? Usually it's not a big deal if things go a bit off kilter, but my embroidery frame is a little bit wonky due to my holes not being the straightest.

I used to have a drill with a little level on the back, but that was 2 cities ago, and my current work bench isn't level to begin with, so it wouldn't help a lot.

A. If you drill more than like four holes a year, and can have more possessions than can fit in a suitcase, get a drill press.
B. If you really insist on doing everything all hosed up, you can kinda get there by bracing the drill bit against something square or buying one of the terrible guides on eBay that strap to a hand drill. This won't get you very good results, but it's a quick and dirty way to get it done in the field

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

A Real Happy Camper posted:

How the hell do I drill decently vertical holes without a drill press? Usually it's not a big deal if things go a bit off kilter, but my embroidery frame is a little bit wonky due to my holes not being the straightest.

I used to have a drill with a little level on the back, but that was 2 cities ago, and my current work bench isn't level to begin with, so it wouldn't help a lot.

I'm not saying buy this one, its just the first one that came up when I searched for "drill press attachment for hand drill.

https://www.amazon.ca/Milescraft-13...180793075&psc=1

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
Rockler has a drill guide that's pretty well regarded, but it's like $200. Which is way more than a used drill press should be on your local Craigslist.

I switched to a downcut but for doing my logo engraving, results are :discourse:


It's actually too good, highlights some other small errors in my setup and gcode. My machine is about half a mm out of square.

Bondematt
Jan 26, 2007

Not too stupid
Highly recommend the drill guide attachment if you can't swing a drill press.

Gets a good 90* hole and even if you end up getting a drill press it's great for bringing a drill to the work on large pieces. They can even be used with forsener bits and I can clap mine down or screw it in if I need to for bigger bits.

That said mine is about 20 years older than me and made of steel, I have zero idea what the current go to is.

PokeJoe
Aug 24, 2004

hail cgatan


I want to build a little indoor greenhouse cabinet thing, what's a nice looking wood for water contact and humidity resistance for indoors? One that isn't cedar since I'm tired of using it.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

PokeJoe posted:

I want to build a little indoor greenhouse cabinet thing, what's a nice looking wood for water contact and humidity resistance for indoors? One that isn't cedar since I'm tired of using it.

Teak is the go-to if you don't mind spending money on an import. Domestically redwood works but is soft as hell and about as fun to work with as cedar or maybe less so.

There's lists online of more water resistant woods but they're generally a bunch of exotic species I don't feel good about recommending. I guess elm is on there too, if you can find it.

IMO just about the worst possible scenario for wood is high humidity, little air flow, regularly wetted for years on end, like a greenhouse: I just assume it's going to eventually stain, get mildew, etc. and treat these things as structures with a lifespan of 10 years or less. The only little greenhouse we've made that lasted properly without decaying was made of extruded aluminum channels.

Kalman
Jan 17, 2010

I feel like you’re better off building the greenhouse itself out of metal/plastic, and then decorating the exterior with wood.

PokeJoe
Aug 24, 2004

hail cgatan


🤔

Here's what I've got right now.



Aside from size my biggest complaint would be the restricted airflow. The point of it isnt so much to warm and humidify the plants as it is to keep my cats from eating them. My thought is I would have it raised off the floor a few inches (Roomba height) and have very wide gaps in the shelf slats for airflow, it would be mostly open on the bottom so water and humidity would be unable to build up in there. I just expect to spill a little water now and then when I'm watering the plants.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



PokeJoe posted:

I want to build a little indoor greenhouse cabinet thing, what's a nice looking wood for water contact and humidity resistance for indoors? One that isn't cedar since I'm tired of using it.

I think cypress has good water properties if you can snag any.

Sadi
Jan 18, 2005
SC - Where there are more rednecks than people
I’ve used black locust for garden stuff and it’s held up very well.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

PokeJoe posted:

🤔

Here's what I've got right now.



Aside from size my biggest complaint would be the restricted airflow. The point of it isnt so much to warm and humidify the plants as it is to keep my cats from eating them. My thought is I would have it raised off the floor a few inches (Roomba height) and have very wide gaps in the shelf slats for airflow, it would be mostly open on the bottom so water and humidity would be unable to build up in there. I just expect to spill a little water now and then when I'm watering the plants.

Oh OK, your "greenhouse" is not actually doing greenhouse things. If it's just the occasional spill, then you can either use one of the wood species suggested, or, any wood at all and then coat it heavily with a finish that resists water and staining. Probably any poly will do but a spar varnish is formulated for e.g. the wood parts of boats so its durable, UV resistant (which will help keep your wood from bleaching in the sunlight) and water resistant (nothing totally keeps water out of wood, but resistant will help with spills).

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Leperflesh posted:

(nothing totally keeps water out of wood, but resistant will help with spills).
Epoxy actually will basically totally keep water out of wood. It's a mess and requires a bunch of coats and you still have to coat the epoxy with spar varnish because epoxy has little UV resistance, but people making fancy wooden boats these days basically dip them in epoxy and fiberglass to the point that they aren't really wooden boats anymore, but they sure hold up well.

PokeJoe posted:

I want to build a little indoor greenhouse cabinet thing, what's a nice looking wood for water contact and humidity resistance for indoors? One that isn't cedar since I'm tired of using it.
There's a bunch of exotic tropical hardwoods that fit the bill and a few domestic. Of the exotics, honduran mahogany, african mahogany, sapele, Spanish cedar, Red grandis/eucalyptus are all Pretty Good, with the eucalytpus maybe only being good, but with the benefit of usually being plantation grown and sustainable. Teak, ipe and purple heart will basically last forever even buried in mud, but they are either expensive or hard to work with or both. One the domestic side, black locust and osage orange are both extremely rot resistant. Catalpa heartwood is as well, though it's not at all a commonly seen lumber. The heartwood only of walnut (air dried would be better than steamed-the steaming dilutes the tannins into the heartwood and I would imagine that decreases the rot resistance) and white oak are commonly available and quite durable as well. Cherry heartwood has a bit of rot resistance, but not a ton. Cypress is okay but most of the cypress available now is second growth and not super-duper rot resistant like the old stuff, and if you're tired of working cedar, it's about like that except stickier and less brittle.

All that being said, for what I understand your application to be, you don't really need a super rot resistant wood or anything. Pretty much any wood is going to stain some in those conditions, and may not stay a 'nice looking wood' for very long. As others have said, the right finish is probably more important in your scenario than the right wood.

PokeJoe
Aug 24, 2004

hail cgatan


Cool, thanks for the tips everybody :tipshat:

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003
I’m just dipping my toes into woodworking now that some of the rough remodelling is happening at the house. First post here and have a lot of catching up in the thread to do now.

I mainly come from an automotive background, so I’m just slowly getting my garage turned around into a more appropriate wood shop.





I’ve messed around with my old crappy Craftsman 10” mitre saw for a decade before finally getting something more serious this year with that Bosch 12” and stand. I was also in need of some routing work to be done, so picked up that SawStop table, JessEm lift, Woodpeckers fence, and Porter Cable production router.

I picked up some store brand new chisels to get the hang of cleaning up detail cuts and gave them a little home on the wall too. I’ve had the same circular saw for about a decade and it gets me by. Nothing particularly fancy there.


I need to figure out a decent under-mount bench vise setup. I’d love that twin turbo one, but hard to justify it with my level of usage. I wouldn’t mind loading it on some rails that it could slide on under my bench to make it a little more useful for different projects.

Something to figure out among the 200 different Woodpeckers products I wish I could afford and order.

Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010
That is a very nice router table, you're off to a good start.

I just put the first coat of oil on a couple marquetry panels. These will be going into a furniture piece I've been working on. I took a whole bunch of photos of the making of these so I think I'll do an effort post outline the method. I tried a different method than I normally use (and outlined a few years back). They turned out well, my biggest complaint was that dust from the walnut background really got into the dyed poplar, so next time I'll go straight from the scraper to finishing.



TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
Made a box, to hold some building blocks I made for a friend's kid.



The project was a bit of a mess. It sat around in my workshop for over half a year while I procrastinated. I used the last of my really wide cherry boards for the walls (the box is roughly 1 cubic foot), and of course I marked my tails wrong, so one of them got "cut off" and had to be glued back on, which didn't work very well. And I'm not exactly an expert at dovetails, so the fit's pretty uneven. I decided to lean into it by making everything irregular, on the theory that then the stuff I couldn't do well wouldn't stand out as much. So it's a "rustic" box. Still sturdy as gently caress and will hold blocks just fine.

Just Winging It
Jan 19, 2012

The buck stops at my ass

Meow Meow Meow posted:

That is a very nice router table, you're off to a good start.

I just put the first coat of oil on a couple marquetry panels. These will be going into a furniture piece I've been working on. I took a whole bunch of photos of the making of these so I think I'll do an effort post outline the method. I tried a different method than I normally use (and outlined a few years back). They turned out well, my biggest complaint was that dust from the walnut background really got into the dyed poplar, so next time I'll go straight from the scraper to finishing.





Your marquetry work never ceases to be cool as gently caress. One question though, when sanding/scraping the assembled panel, does it not also remove the color from the dyed segments? Or does the dye penetrate deep enough that removing some of the top layer doesn't expose the undyed material underneath?

keep it down up there!
Jun 22, 2006

How's it goin' eh?

Sockington posted:

I need to figure out a decent under-mount bench vise setup. I’d love that twin turbo one, but hard to justify it with my level of usage. I wouldn’t mind loading it on some rails that it could slide on under my bench to make it a little more useful for different projects.


John Heisz has plans for a wooden version if you want to make your own.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LnbY0eHZ0CY
Plans: https://ibuildit.ca/plans/twin-screw-gear-linked-vise/

Another common DIY version is using scaffolding legs/leveling jacks.

Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010

Just Winging It posted:

Your marquetry work never ceases to be cool as gently caress. One question though, when sanding/scraping the assembled panel, does it not also remove the color from the dyed segments? Or does the dye penetrate deep enough that removing some of the top layer doesn't expose the undyed material underneath?

Thanks, I buy the wood pre-dyed and whatever process they use ensure the dye goes 100% through so that's not a concern. It is a concern on the shading/burning that takes place so it gets burnt a bit darker then it needs to be so that after sanding/scraping it still shows up.

toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


quote:

"Had to improvise because table saw died"

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Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Sockington posted:

I’m just dipping my toes into woodworking now

Somehow all of your wood is going to rust, I can feel it. Hi sock welcome to the woodworking world. For those of you who don't know, sockington here is the official standard unit of measurement for automotive cancer.

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