3D Printers: You can anneal some posts in a sous vide cooker

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Chainclaw: Feb 14, 2009

GotDonuts posted:

I wanna print my nephew some cool terrain and such for his dnd hobby, anything you fine folks would reccomend?

I just print this

from here

https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-dark-realms-elven-scenery-guard-tower-116029

also this

from here

https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-ruined-portal-119825

Chainclaw fucked around with this message at 23:09 on Oct 27, 2022

# ? Oct 27, 2022 23:05

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# ? May 30, 2024 22:13

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

GotDonuts posted:

I wanna print my nephew some cool terrain and such for his dnd hobby, anything you fine folks would reccomend?

FDM or Resin? Cast-n-Play just released some beautiful terrain for resin printers. Pretty much any biome you can think of.

# ? Oct 27, 2022 23:14

AlexDeGruven: Jun 29, 2007; Watch me pull my dongle out of this tiny box

cruft posted:

I just tried Cura for the first time for this reason, and it seems kinda nice. Are people ITT mostly using Prusa?

(The print still failed, I gave up on the pumpkin octopus cat thing)

I use Prusa most of the time unless I need a raft (small gears) or support. Tree supports and rafts in Cura are just better.

# ? Oct 28, 2022 01:57

mewse: May 2, 2006

cruft posted:

A co-worker asked me to print a model and I just don't even.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5031902/files

What do you goons suggest here? Clearly I'm going to need supports all over the place, but would rotating this one way or the other minimize how much support material I need? Should I use auto-supports or paint them on to strategic places? Are there different supports than the "wavy line" ones I've been using that I should look into here? Like, I recall seeing something that looked like tree branches...

Love the renders instead of the actual object. Then you click on the "makes" tab and they look like dogshit, as expected.

Tree supports in cura are really nice though. I use prusaslicer exclusively but will spin up cura for tree supports on wacky models (honeycomb mouse shell)

# ? Oct 28, 2022 04:28

Marsupial Ape: Dec 15, 2020; the mod team violated the sancity of my avatar

There should be an Idiot�s Guide to Thinking In FDM While Designing.

# ? Oct 28, 2022 05:39

Nerobro: Nov 4, 2005; Rider now with 100% more titanium!

Marsupial Ape posted:

There should be an Idiot�s Guide to Thinking In FDM While Designing.

You mean billie ruben's guide? https://i.imgur.com/MZiyaq6.png Here's her whole page of posters https://www.billieruben.info/post/my-3d-printing-posters-1

You I am looking up the voron design guide as well. When I find it, I'll drop it here.

Here's the voron design guide:

-no overhangs over 45 degrees
-no supports (unless they are absolutely needed, and if that's the case they must be built in to the part)
-Take note of part orientation to make sure the part is strong in the directions it needs to be.
-Countersunk holes "overhanging" the print surface should have a chamfer on them or other method like that to prevent issues
-Design with common screws/hardware in mind. Ie, stick with M3x6,8,12,16,20,30,40, M5x10,16,30,40 when possible (for V1/V2)
- Give surfaces that touch the Print Bed a 0.4mm chamfer, especially holes and edges. Doing so can reduce elephant�s foot and overall result in a cleaner print.
- Try using Fillets for all edges and corners that are sharp and likely be touched. 0.5mm-1.0mm tends to give great results.
- Heatset Inserts Dimensions: 4.7mm diameter, 5mm deep, with a 0.4mm chamfer (the chamfer helps with insertion).
- Screw Hole Dimensions: For a loose fit, oversize the hole by 0.4mm. For a press fit oversize by 0.2mm. Most M3 holes are 3.4mm diameter and M5 are 5.4mm diameter.
- Try to be conscious about minimum perimeters or shells to avoid having really thin features.
- Take note of part orientation to make sure the part is strong in the directions it needs to be.
- Try to orient STLs such that no reorientation is necessary.
- General "nice" aesthetic.

Nerobro fucked around with this message at 06:56 on Oct 28, 2022

# ? Oct 28, 2022 06:38

Hadlock: Nov 9, 2004

You can pretty comfortably do overhangs to 55 degrees with no issue, I think 65° is where things start getting sloppy and 75 gets real ugly but you can do 80 if aesthetics don't matter to you, at all, and it's not a super delicate part

# ? Oct 28, 2022 07:26

Sockser: Jun 28, 2007; This world only remembers the results!

Nerobro posted:

You mean billie ruben's guide? https://i.imgur.com/MZiyaq6.png Here's her whole page of posters https://www.billieruben.info/post/my-3d-printing-posters-1

You I am looking up the voron design guide as well. When I find it, I'll drop it here.

Here's the voron design guide:

-no overhangs over 45 degrees
-no supports (unless they are absolutely needed, and if that's the case they must be built in to the part)
-Take note of part orientation to make sure the part is strong in the directions it needs to be.
-Countersunk holes "overhanging" the print surface should have a chamfer on them or other method like that to prevent issues
-Design with common screws/hardware in mind. Ie, stick with M3x6,8,12,16,20,30,40, M5x10,16,30,40 when possible (for V1/V2)
- Give surfaces that touch the Print Bed a 0.4mm chamfer, especially holes and edges. Doing so can reduce elephant�s foot and overall result in a cleaner print.
- Try using Fillets for all edges and corners that are sharp and likely be touched. 0.5mm-1.0mm tends to give great results.
- Heatset Inserts Dimensions: 4.7mm diameter, 5mm deep, with a 0.4mm chamfer (the chamfer helps with insertion).
- Screw Hole Dimensions: For a loose fit, oversize the hole by 0.4mm. For a press fit oversize by 0.2mm. Most M3 holes are 3.4mm diameter and M5 are 5.4mm diameter.
- Try to be conscious about minimum perimeters or shells to avoid having really thin features.
- Take note of part orientation to make sure the part is strong in the directions it needs to be.
- Try to orient STLs such that no reorientation is necessary.
- General "nice" aesthetic.

Billie Ruben owns, her 3d printed sex toy discord is a consistent treat

# ? Oct 28, 2022 07:32

Nerobro: Nov 4, 2005; Rider now with 100% more titanium!

^--- Yes it is.

Hadlock posted:

You can pretty comfortably do overhangs to 55 degrees with no issue, I think 65° is where things start getting sloppy and 75 gets real ugly but you can do 80 if aesthetics don't matter to you, at all, and it's not a super delicate part

Sure you can. And if you're really careful, even 90deg CAN be done. But if you're designing for something to be printed... you need to assume it's a "pretty sloppy person with a pretty sloppy printer". Half the reason voron parts look good, is they're ~designed to look good~. Part of those rules are ways to stop elephants foot. And to print essentially without part cooling.

# ? Oct 28, 2022 07:33

RoboJoe: Dec 30, 2006; We cleanse.
You are the filth.

I'm considering buying a 3D printer for mainly small projects, things like boxes to put circuit boards in and switches/buttons on or minor bits and pieces that can be used as attachments or upgrades to joysticks and whatnot, or maybe some fun smaller things like pencil holders or storage for small objects, screws, keys, etc, nothing big or complicated really...well, at least at the moment until I learn how to use the 3D printer properly and have new ideas.

I'm obviously new to 3D printing so I read the OP and see the Ender 3 series is quite recommended but the OP hasn't been updated since July 2021 and I see there are many, many different versions of the Ender 3 now, so I'm curious which might be the most recommended currently?
Doing a little googling I see good things about the Ender 3 S1 and the Ender 3 Neo as more recent models, but as there are many to research I am feeling a little overwhelmed and could appreciate some advice please.

# ? Oct 28, 2022 13:14

bird food bathtub: Aug 9, 2003; College Slice

Sockser posted:

Billie Ruben owns, her 3d printed sex toy discord is a consistent treat

Do people do that? I would not be comfortable with any kind of 3d printed part being used for intimate activities. Cleanliness is a *huge* thing in that area.

# ? Oct 28, 2022 13:35

Sockser: Jun 28, 2007; This world only remembers the results!

bird food bathtub posted:

Do people do that? I would not be comfortable with any kind of 3d printed part being used for intimate activities. Cleanliness is a *huge* thing in that area.

Depends on the use case but some things are directly 3d printed, but a lot of the discord is more on making prints body safe and cleanable etc

*do not 3d print a dildo
** unless you are going to cast it in silicone

# ? Oct 28, 2022 14:07

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

bird food bathtub posted:

a *huge* thing in that area.

# ? Oct 28, 2022 14:07

queeb: Jun 10, 2004; m

guys im in danger.

also in other news i figured out how to get a basic MDF thing done in fusion 360 and i feel like a fuckin boss

# ? Oct 28, 2022 14:23

The Chairman: Jun 30, 2003; But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

RoboJoe posted:

I'm obviously new to 3D printing so I read the OP and see the Ender 3 series is quite recommended but the OP hasn't been updated since July 2021 and I see there are many, many different versions of the Ender 3 now, so I'm curious which might be the most recommended currently?
Doing a little googling I see good things about the Ender 3 S1 and the Ender 3 Neo as more recent models, but as there are many to research I am feeling a little overwhelmed and could appreciate some advice please.

I had the same question and recently settled on the Ender-3 S1. It'll come down to how much money you want to spend and what features you think are going to be important to you:

The "S1" models have a "Sprite" direct extruder-hot end combo that the filament feeds directly into, compared to the Bowden system extruders where the extruder is mounted on the frame and passes the filament into the hot end via a long PTFE tube. Direct extruders are generally more reliable but more expensive, though Bowden extruders have the advantage of being lighter, a little easier to maintain and less susceptible to the printer's own vibrations.
The S1s also come with spring-steel magnetic print beds that can be picked up and flexed to remove the model, compared to having to pry or scrape off models from fixed beds.
The "Max" models have a slightly bigger bed area: 300 mm x 300 mm compared to 240 mm x 240 mm.
The "S1 Pro" has a higher temperature limit, which means it can handle more exotic filaments like nylon and carbon fiber.
The "S1" and "Neo" series both have a system that can automatically measure and compensate for slight bed alignment problems (Creality calls it "CR Touch").
Some of the cheaper models have a single Z-axis lead screw that moves the entire printhead beam; this can be finicky to calibrate and troubleshoot because the non-driven side will bounce if it's too slack and lag behind the motor if it's too stiff

If you do settle on something cheaper, the Ender-3 series is pretty easily upgradeable; there's lots of first-party and third-party mods you can get that'll bring a cheaper model up to the standards of one of the higher-end models. The only major thing you can't upgrade on an Ender-3 is the bed size, so if you're sure you want to print stuff in the 12" x 12" range it'd be worth it to get a Max.

The Chairman fucked around with this message at 14:31 on Oct 28, 2022

# ? Oct 28, 2022 14:29

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

RoboJoe posted:

I'm considering buying a 3D printer for mainly small projects, things like boxes to put circuit boards in and switches/buttons on or minor bits and pieces that can be used as attachments or upgrades to joysticks and whatnot, or maybe some fun smaller things like pencil holders or storage for small objects, screws, keys, etc, nothing big or complicated really...well, at least at the moment until I learn how to use the 3D printer properly and have new ideas.

I'm obviously new to 3D printing so I read the OP and see the Ender 3 series is quite recommended but the OP hasn't been updated since July 2021 and I see there are many, many different versions of the Ender 3 now, so I'm curious which might be the most recommended currently?
Doing a little googling I see good things about the Ender 3 S1 and the Ender 3 Neo as more recent models, but as there are many to research I am feeling a little overwhelmed and could appreciate some advice please.

Ender3 S1 is a fine printer, but the new recommendation (IMO) is the Elegoo Neptune 3 which is an Ender3-like printer from another major manufacturer, so it isn't a lovely clone. It has more features out of the box at a lower price point than the Ender3. You can use all the same parts and any advice you see for printing one an Ender will transfer over (barring machine-specific things, natch). The Neptune 3 is also a solid "it just works" choice.

# ? Oct 28, 2022 14:34

queeb: Jun 10, 2004; m

huh, would you reccomend the neptune 3 over an ender 3 neo? i need to buy ANOTHER printer to keep up with what i have coming in so i was looking to buy today. the neo is 310 canadian, the neptune 3 is 395 but has a 65 dollar coupon right now, so 330.

# ? Oct 28, 2022 14:47

Tremors: Aug 16, 2006; What happened to the legendary Chris Redfield, huh? What happened to you?!

Amazon's new show The Peripheral reveals how to unclog a printer nozzle the right way.

# ? Oct 28, 2022 15:09

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

queeb posted:

huh, would you reccomend the neptune 3 over an ender 3 neo? i need to buy ANOTHER printer to keep up with what i have coming in so i was looking to buy today. the neo is 310 canadian, the neptune 3 is 395 but has a 65 dollar coupon right now, so 330.

I haven't used the NEO but I can see two improvements the Neptune 3 has - a run-out sensor, which is practically a necessity IMO, and a detachable LCD screen with is a REALLY nice QoL thing to have. I would say yes. However, that $330 CDN with shipping? On the Elegoo site it shows $209 US, which should be $284 CDN.

# ? Oct 28, 2022 15:13

queeb: Jun 10, 2004; m

Doctor Zero posted:

I haven't used the NEO but I can see two improvements the Neptune 3 has - a run-out sensor, which is practically a necessity IMO, and a detachable LCD screen with is a REALLY nice QoL thing to have. I would say yes. However, that $330 CDN with shipping? On the Elegoo site it shows $209 US, which should be $284 CDN.

yeah free shipping via amazon.

edit: oh geeze its free on the elegoo store too, wow its way cheaper.

edit: I've sold nearly 1k in stuff in a day... im at the point now where i either need to shut my store down for a month or drastically increase my production, because holy christ im swamped.

queeb fucked around with this message at 15:32 on Oct 28, 2022

# ? Oct 28, 2022 15:27

RoboJoe: Dec 30, 2006; We cleanse.
You are the filth.

The Chairman posted:

I had the same question and recently settled on the Ender-3 S1. It'll come down to how much money you want to spend and what features you think are going to be important to you:

The "S1" models have a "Sprite" direct extruder-hot end combo that the filament feeds directly into, compared to the Bowden system extruders where the extruder is mounted on the frame and passes the filament into the hot end via a long PTFE tube. Direct extruders are generally more reliable but more expensive, though Bowden extruders have the advantage of being lighter, a little easier to maintain and less susceptible to the printer's own vibrations.

The S1s also come with spring-steel magnetic print beds that can be picked up and flexed to remove the model, compared to having to pry or scrape off models from fixed beds.

The "Max" models have a slightly bigger bed area: 300 mm x 300 mm compared to 240 mm x 240 mm.

The "S1 Pro" has a higher temperature limit, which means it can handle more exotic filaments like nylon and carbon fiber.

The "S1" and "Neo" series both have a system that can automatically measure and compensate for slight bed alignment problems (Creality calls it "CR Touch").

Some of the cheaper models have a single Z-axis lead screw that moves the entire printhead beam; this can be finicky to calibrate and troubleshoot because the non-driven side will bounce if it's too slack and lag behind the motor if it's too stiff

If you do settle on something cheaper, the Ender-3 series is pretty easily upgradeable; there's lots of first-party and third-party mods you can get that'll bring a cheaper model up to the standards of one of the higher-end models. The only major thing you can't upgrade on an Ender-3 is the bed size, so if you're sure you want to print stuff in the 12" x 12" range it'd be worth it to get a Max.

Thank you, that's all super helpful and helps me understand some differences better! It sounds like I'd definitely want to buy the S1 model if I went for an Ender 3, but it's good to know if I went for a different Ender 3 I could upgrade some parts.

Doctor Zero posted:

Ender3 S1 is a fine printer, but the new recommendation (IMO) is the Elegoo Neptune 3 which is an Ender3-like printer from another major manufacturer, so it isn't a lovely clone. It has more features out of the box at a lower price point than the Ender3. You can use all the same parts and any advice you see for printing one an Ender will transfer over (barring machine-specific things, natch). The Neptune 3 is also a solid "it just works" choice.

Thanks also; I haven't heard of this 3D printer but I'll definitely do some research into it before I make my decision.

# ? Oct 28, 2022 16:06

mattfl: Aug 27, 2004

queeb posted:

yeah free shipping via amazon.

edit: oh geeze its free on the elegoo store too, wow its way cheaper.

edit: I've sold nearly 1k in stuff in a day... im at the point now where i either need to shut my store down for a month or drastically increase my production, because holy christ im swamped.

Or start raising your prices a bit to come to some sort of happy medium of number of orders vs. time you need to meet those orders.

# ? Oct 28, 2022 16:07

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

queeb posted:

yeah free shipping via amazon.

edit: oh geeze its free on the elegoo store too, wow its way cheaper.

edit: I've sold nearly 1k in stuff in a day... im at the point now where i either need to shut my store down for a month or drastically increase my production, because holy christ im swamped.

What do you have as a delivery time? I made mine 2 weeks to account for spikes and such.

# ? Oct 28, 2022 16:08

w00tmonger: Mar 9, 2011; F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

queeb posted:

guys im in danger.

also in other news i figured out how to get a basic MDF thing done in fusion 360 and i feel like a fuckin boss

Noice. I'd be upping your prices a bit. That's pretty dang cheap considering Etsy grabbing a bunch of the top.

I know filament margins are a bit different than resin, but $70 CAD is pretty bananas for that much terrain

# ? Oct 28, 2022 16:22

Hadlock: Nov 9, 2004

$100 for a starter set and $70 for the expansion set seems like a screaming deal after you get done paying $50 for a 5th edition starter set book and $100 for snacks for you and all your buds and uh $30 for a cool dice tower and everything else. $25 for dm guide, $25 for monster manual what did i forget. Especially since you're charging CAD. $70 cad is what $52 USD these days? Hell you might have some local comic book shops buying those and reselling them at market prices. I would.

# ? Oct 28, 2022 18:05

queeb: Jun 10, 2004; m

yeah maybe raising prices is a good idea? I figured its legit like 60 cents for a tile or something like that, i can run a set off in less than a day on my 4 printers, and i make a killing in the painting becausei can zip through a set real fast.

edit: and those are just the base 0 magnetic 0 paint prices, i add like 60-70 bucks to magnetize and more on top to paint, though the canadian dollar being so weak is a big advantage when selling.

Doctor Zero posted:

What do you have as a delivery time? I made mine 2 weeks to account for spikes and such.

1-5 weeks on most of my stuff.

I legit have no idea what im doing, this poo poo just exploded so fast, i was reading people saying oh they made 1 sale in their first 3 months and whatnot, so i posted my poo poo and im at like almost 60 sales in 2.5 months.

queeb fucked around with this message at 18:29 on Oct 28, 2022

# ? Oct 28, 2022 18:24

queeb: Jun 10, 2004; m

lol as we're talking i have another sale, here's the usual average for the terrain, that 70 dollar expansion:

its like 18 tiles, real quick for me to paint, magnetize, 200 bucks. seems fair?

edit: So much of this was trying to actually get sales too, sitting at 0 sales was hard to get people to buy, now that im at nearly 60 with a bunch of 5* reviews, i can probably raise prices a bit since people trust my shop more?

edit: if you use the code halloween20 on elegoo, you can get the neptune 3 for 189 USD, a drat steal at that price, only 257 canadian.

queeb fucked around with this message at 19:14 on Oct 28, 2022

# ? Oct 28, 2022 18:37

RoboJoe: Dec 30, 2006; We cleanse.
You are the filth.

Apologies, I'm jumping back in requesting advice.

queeb posted:

edit: if you use the code halloween20 on elegoo, you can get the neptune 3 for 189 USD, a drat steal at that price, only 257 canadian.

I usually spend days/weeks researching and debating with myself before finally settling on buying something but with this discount code I could get the Neptune 3 for just over ~~�181~~ �171 here in the UK via their store. By comparison the cheapest the Ender 3 S1 has been was �229 a month or so ago, and that's probably not going to happen again soon as it was a specific store that rarely does very hefty discounts as it's usual price is approximately �335 (or �419 on amazon :confused:

)

I've done some swift googling and I'm planning to research more tomorrow but this thread (and other resources like amazon reviews) seems positive about the Neptune 3, so would I be an idiot to not buy this deal right now? As that does seem a great price to someone knowing little about 3D printers.
If anyone knows more, are there any major differences or advantages of the Neptune 3 compared to the Ender 3 S1, or even things that might be not as good? Do they use the same sort of filaments and whatnot to allow me to print things I might come across that is of interest to me?

I am incredibly indecisive and prone to overthinking so I appreciate all the help :shobon:

RoboJoe fucked around with this message at 20:32 on Oct 28, 2022

# ? Oct 28, 2022 19:51

queeb: Jun 10, 2004; m

jsut get into a situation where you've sold more than you can possibly produce in a timeframe and that makes buying decisions easier, if its cheap and works you get it.

seriously though the neptune 3 comes with auto bed levelling, a filament runout sensor, a magnetic flexible bed, all the poo poo i would upgrade on an ender 3 already anyways, at that price its a crazy good buy.

# ? Oct 28, 2022 19:55

cruft: Oct 25, 2007

The Neptune 3 is a cool printer, too. It's like an Ender 3 v2 plus the dozens of dollars worth of upgrades I've done to mine since I got it.

I'm super worried about fires now, though, both with my Ender and all other el cheapo printers. But if you're okay with that risk, the Neptune 3 seems like a real badass printer.

# ? Oct 28, 2022 20:17

AlexDeGruven: Jun 29, 2007; Watch me pull my dongle out of this tiny box

This makes me want to start printing magnetic 'catan' tiles again.

# ? Oct 28, 2022 20:27

queeb: Jun 10, 2004; m

its insane the market there is for stuff, its like infinite possibilities. My buddy wants to do up catan tiles out of mdf, laser cut a whole set, have a cool heightmap kind of effect, the possibilities are endless.

# ? Oct 28, 2022 20:31

Listerine: Jan 5, 2005; Exquisite Corpse

cruft posted:

The Neptune 3 is a cool printer, too. It's like an Ender 3 v2 plus the dozens of dollars worth of upgrades I've done to mine since I got it.

I'm super worried about fires now, though, both with my Ender and all other el cheapo printers. But if you're okay with that risk, the Neptune 3 seems like a real badass printer.

Do Neptunes have a reputation for catching on fire?

# ? Oct 28, 2022 20:33

cruft: Oct 25, 2007

Listerine posted:

Do Neptunes have a reputation for catching on fire?

I don't think they've been out long enough to have a reputation for much of anything other than sale price and feature set.

But generally at this price point it seems safe to assume they cut as many corners as possible. There's a reason the MK3S+ is four times the price for the same print volume.

# ? Oct 28, 2022 20:35

AlexDeGruven: Jun 29, 2007; Watch me pull my dongle out of this tiny box

queeb posted:

its insane the market there is for stuff, its like infinite possibilities. My buddy wants to do up catan tiles out of mdf, laser cut a whole set, have a cool heightmap kind of effect, the possibilities are endless.

MDF Catan tiles with some height would be awesome on CNC, too.

Edit:

First benchies printed with the new Spider. They look pretty decent, even at 100mm/s, though it's noticeable.

Popped on the included 0.8 nozzle and running a benchy at 0.6 and 60mm/sec.

I forgot to change the nozzle size at first in the octoklipper config so it freaked out on layer 2. Better now. Let's see how it looks.

AlexDeGruven fucked around with this message at 21:52 on Oct 28, 2022

# ? Oct 28, 2022 21:43

m.hache: Dec 1, 2004; Fun Shoe

Ender S1 plus arrived today. Up and running in less than an hour. God the quality is night and day from the Ender 3 I got 2 years ago.

Started looking for designs to hold all the tools and couldn't find any. Then I look closer and there's a built in drawer on this unit. Guess that's why no one prints one.

Got a benchy on there now to see how it fares then gonna spit out a massive piece because I bought all this print volume so I'm going to use every mm of it.

# ? Oct 28, 2022 22:07

BadMedic: Jul 22, 2007; I've never actually seen him heal anybody.; Pillbug

cruft posted:

But generally at this price point it seems safe to assume they cut as many corners as possible. There's a reason the MK3S+ is four times the price for the same print volume.

So I'm a newbie in 3d printing, but I do have some experience in electronics manufacturing.
My take is it's a combo of razor thin margins, an established design, and cheaping out on the mainboard/firmware dev

First, literally nobody talks about the Neptune 1/2, so I think they are trying to sell it on very thin margins to establish themselves as a serious contender in the FDM space, like they are in resin. It seems to be working so far for them TBH, it's recommended pretty frequently as a starter printer.
For the mainboard, they seem to be using their own clone of another manufacturer's mainboard? If you have the capability and expect to sell a decent number of units, you can shave off a decent bit by making the board yourself. As for the firmware... It's pretty much default (but at least up to date) marlin. Basically zero of the advanced features have been enabled, and it's already gone through like 4 bugfix revisions in month since release. At least their github is public so you can compile a version with advanced features yourself if you are feeling spicy.

# ? Oct 28, 2022 22:31

w00tmonger: Mar 9, 2011; F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

queeb posted:

yeah maybe raising prices is a good idea? I figured its legit like 60 cents for a tile or something like that, i can run a set off in less than a day on my 4 printers, and i make a killing in the painting becausei can zip through a set real fast.

edit: and those are just the base 0 magnetic 0 paint prices, i add like 60-70 bucks to magnetize and more on top to paint, though the canadian dollar being so weak is a big advantage when selling.

1-5 weeks on most of my stuff.

I legit have no idea what im doing, this poo poo just exploded so fast, i was reading people saying oh they made 1 sale in their first 3 months and whatnot, so i posted my poo poo and im at like almost 60 sales in 2.5 months.

I'd definitely consider raising but my prices ng knowledge is in resin so not sure on specifics.

What I will say, is if you price to low you'll get a lot is sales, but also attract a lot of psychos who expect the world and dont want to pay for it. For nerds, especially on Etsy, there's a lot of price tolerance. I'm selling $75cad dragons $175 helicopters regularly.

Focus on good customer service and good print quality first and foremost

E: wait holy moly is that your price with them painted/magneted? I would definitely be valuing your time more

w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 23:18 on Oct 28, 2022

# ? Oct 28, 2022 22:33

Chainclaw: Feb 14, 2009

My partner�s been doing some Etsy stuff, and part of pricing is you don�t want a refund or an item lost in the mail to wipe out a lot of your profits. Especially if it�s a side thing and not your main job, it can be real frustrating to have to recreate and re-mail something when it�s a hobby thing and your margins are small.

# ? Oct 28, 2022 22:45

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# ? May 30, 2024 22:13

Doctor Zero: Sep 21, 2002; Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

queeb posted:

lol as we're talking i have another sale, here's the usual average for the terrain, that 70 dollar expansion:

its like 18 tiles, real quick for me to paint, magnetize, 200 bucks. seems fair?

edit: So much of this was trying to actually get sales too, sitting at 0 sales was hard to get people to buy, now that im at nearly 60 with a bunch of 5* reviews, i can probably raise prices a bit since people trust my shop more?

edit: if you use the code halloween20 on elegoo, you can get the neptune 3 for 189 USD, a drat steal at that price, only 257 canadian.

Jesus H Christ in a chicken basket. Looks like I�m going to start printing the cast-n-play tiles sets I never bothered with. :wotwot:

# ? Oct 28, 2022 22:55

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses > 3D Printers: You can anneal some posts in a sous vide cooker

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