Sockington posted:

I took some rough cut 4/4 cherry boards from a different farmer in the area and messed around with the machines. Laminated the cherry together and then to a 1.5” thick pine backing that will be inside of the chop.I was just going to use a few tiny pieces of the chestnut around the screw hole as a trim and it has a cool story. I guess my wording was kinda vague with what I was using it for.

Anyways I still have to put some cherry sides on this, round the edges off, and then cut it down to length. Route out the inside of the pine a bit for the criss-cross setup I made and finally get this setup together. I’ve just been slowly pissing around for weeks on a half day project.

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

I'm interested to see how this does. Sometimes face glueing different species can cause interesting cupping/warping from the two species expanding/contracting with changes in moisture content at different rates. Did you laminate up the pine out of strips like you did the cherry? That would definitely help if you did.

Calidus posted:

You’re probably stuck with whatever replacement parts you can find on eBay. It may end up being cheaper to just buy a used saw on Craigslist/Facebook than to get all the parts you need.

Sockington posted:

Yeah. I trimmed down some 2” rough cut pine, cut a strip out of the middle and then glued the two sections backwards of the original grain directions to each other. Then planed it down again. I was going to basically encase it in cherry and have a cherry bench apron to press against… or oak? I got both and this is kind of just an experiment. I planned to run some dowels through it to join it all that way too. I’ll piss around for a year or two and then build a heavy duty bench on the other side of my router table.

Just because I could do it now doesn’t mean I should because so much learning to do.



Edit: I think this is the random message board idea I was just playing with given the supplies I had on hand.
Well FWIW veneered furniture of old often had pine or another similar softwood as a core. More recently, blockboard and similar board materials do the same thing. So there's plenty of precedent both in terms of quality furniture and material aimed at a more utilitarian level. Now that said, you want to pick the pieces of wood for the cores with care so there's minimum chance of them moving/distorting (e.g. avoid boxed heart). Given the nature of wood supplies these days one way around being so picky is to laminate them up yourself, and the laminated pieces are v. likely to be far more stable.

Sockington posted:

I got three boards: one at 2”x 7.5”, and two at 1.5” x 7.25”. All ten footers - I paid $25 each for them which have come to find out was highway robbery.

Mr. Mambold posted:

They're discussing veneer, which is a thin skin- so a totally different process from what you're doing. Like Kaiser, I'm interested in what happens.

Meow Meow Meow posted:

All done the media console I've been working on for some time. Cherry and walnut. The doors slide very nicely. The design is a near copy of a sideboard by Chris Gochnour that was featured in Fine Woodworking a few years back. I knew right away when I saw it a few years ago I wanted to make an interpretation of it, but the mitred dovetails, side hung drawers and the Barnsley mitre on the base felt a bit beyond my skills at the time. Well a few years later, here it is. I modified the base so it sits lower and of course added some marquetry. I should also note that the cove molding on the front edge was cut by hand using an old half-round plane.

Next up is a couple of speaker stands to match.

ColdPie posted:

I can't stop looking at those pictures. Amazing work! What are the dimensions? I really dig the bevel on the front edge, setting the face of the doors & drawers into the cabinet.

Sockington posted:

Well FWIW veneered furniture of old often had pine or another similar softwood as a core. More recently, blockboard and similar board materials do the same thing. So there's plenty of precedent both in terms of quality furniture and material aimed at a more utilitarian level. Now that said, you want to pick the pieces of wood for the cores with care so there's minimum chance of them moving/distorting (e.g. avoid boxed heart). Given the nature of wood supplies these days one way around being so picky is to laminate them up yourself, and the laminated pieces are v. likely to be far more stable.

Meow Meow Meow posted:

keep it down up there! posted:

I've got a job that requires me to clean up both sides of around 400 or so 3/4-inch holes. Nothing extreme, I mostly need to break the edges. How stupid of an idea is it to put a round over or chamfer bit into my grill press?

Obviously a terrible idea for real routing applications, but given the light load and lack of lateral forces, I'm debating trying it.

Alternatively, any other ideas? I was looking at ball nose sanding bits but that would curve the wrong way.

This is looking like it won't be a one-time job so anything that saves me time could add up huge over the next year or so.

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Get a good, high quality countersink bit. A drill press won't get to a high enough speed to let a router bit cut well.

I have this one and it's pretty decent: https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/power-tool-accessories/drill-bits/41012-82-countersink?item=44J2101

Serenade posted:

Is it really that un-salvageable? Are blade guards and riving knives specifically fit to a table saw model? Or does this pre date any sort of standardization

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

.

The potential issue is that you haven't veneered both sides of the core, so it may be unstable. If you glued another laminated block of cherry to the other side of the pine your would have a an ideal construction. You've potentially made the wood version of a bimetallic strip. Pine is pretty stable if it's good and dry and so is cherry, so it may well be fine!

Serenade posted:

I have been given a thrift store tablesaw, a Makita 2708. It needs a clean up, a blade, blade guard, riving knife, and fence. Blade is easy enough. Blade guard and riving knife I suspect just need a compatible one. But a fence is much more subjective. What makes a good "first" tablesaw fence?

Serenade posted:

Is it really that un-salvageable? Are blade guards and riving knives specifically fit to a table saw model? Or does this pre date any sort of standardization

His Divine Shadow posted:

So goons, how would you attach an end grain top to a table frame (rolling kitchen cart)? Taking into consideration the expansion and contraction of such a thing. With a regular side grain top it's pretty easy, all kinds of possible solutions, they are easy because you only have to consider expansion in one directon with side grain tops.

But with end grain the top will expand in two directions and I don't want to end up with a top that's sort of a sloppy fit wit the frame either. Maybe if one corner was solidly fixed and the other three only hold it from lifting up?

I know Norm Abrams solution was to taper the whole outside of the butcher block and have it fit inside a frame tapered to fit, so it would move up and down as it expanded and contracted, but I want the top to be larger than the frame.

Meow Meow Meow posted:

All done the media console I've been working on for some time. Cherry and walnut. The doors slide very nicely. The design is a near copy of a sideboard by Chris Gochnour that was featured in Fine Woodworking a few years back. I knew right away when I saw it a few years ago I wanted to make an interpretation of it, but the mitred dovetails, side hung drawers and the Barnsley mitre on the base felt a bit beyond my skills at the time. Well a few years later, here it is. I modified the base so it sits lower and of course added some marquetry. I should also note that the cove molding on the front edge was cut by hand using an old half-round plane.

Next up is a couple of speaker stands to match.

El Spamo posted:

Question about a refinishing project a friend has asked me for. They have a couple of old chests that have what feels like a polyurethane or maybe lacquer coating on the outside. They've been in their family for a long time, and through a few kids, so they've got a collection of dings and scrapes. I don't want to sand off all the finish unless I can help it, would something like a wipe-on poly to restore the finish do the job? Just something to fill in those scrapes and protect the wood.

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

I would try touching up any scratches that have a color loss with a touch up marker/pen, and then wax it with a good paste wax like Briwax. If you want to try adding more finish before the wax, I would recommend shellac/french polish/padding lacquer, not wipe on poly. Wipe on poly may work, but shellac is much more compatible with pretty much every other finish than poly is. It’s important to clean the pieces well first-mineral spirits or preferably naphtha are great for that to remove any old wax or silicone. Wax and shellac are both pretty easily reversible if something goes wrong which is a big advantage in refinishing. Poly is not so reversible.

His Divine Shadow posted:

So goons, how would you attach an end grain top to a table frame (rolling kitchen cart)? Taking into consideration the expansion and contraction of such a thing. With a regular side grain top it's pretty easy, all kinds of possible solutions, they are easy because you only have to consider expansion in one directon with side grain tops.

But with end grain the top will expand in two directions and I don't want to end up with a top that's sort of a sloppy fit wit the frame either. Maybe if one corner was solidly fixed and the other three only hold it from lifting up?

I know Norm Abrams solution was to taper the whole outside of the butcher block and have it fit inside a frame tapered to fit, so it would move up and down as it expanded and contracted, but I want the top to be larger than the frame.

Mister Dog posted:

Dude holy poo poo

May I ask what you were doing in those intervening years that took you from no way, out of my league to knocking it out of the park?

Bloody posted:

seriously, my god. i want to get good enough to make something 10% this nice.

Meow Meow Meow posted:

All done the media console I've been working on for some time. Cherry and walnut. The doors slide very nicely. The design is a near copy of a sideboard by Chris Gochnour that was featured in Fine Woodworking a few years back. I knew right away when I saw it a few years ago I wanted to make an interpretation of it, but the mitred dovetails, side hung drawers and the Barnsley mitre on the base felt a bit beyond my skills at the time. Well a few years later, here it is. I modified the base so it sits lower and of course added some marquetry. I should also note that the cove molding on the front edge was cut by hand using an old half-round plane.

Next up is a couple of speaker stands to match.

El Spamo posted:

If it feels like it ought to have something a bit more than that then I can brush on and polish some shellac, probably over the whole thing since it's got little nicks all over and I'm afraid that if I just do spot treatments with shellac it'll look splotchy. Wax all over of course, that'll be the 'make it look bright again' step.

PokeJoe posted:

Incredible. You should be proud of yourself this rules so much

A Wizard of Goatse posted:

personally with those specs I'd probably make the endgrain basically a veneer secured way down on something better suited to the job. The problem isn't so much expansion in two dimensions, it's going to take on water much more readily from the surface unless you totally seal it (so be expanding and contracting a lot more, and more frequently) and be much weaker to up-and-down forces than a normal board of equivalent thickness, due to the shorter grain - which makes your single point of attachment idea a nonstarter. If you're just looking for something to tastefully arrange cheeses on in your 24/7/365 air-conditioned townhouse do what you feel but this is what basically all older endgrain butcher block tables look like, complete with cracks:



with a heavily reinforced external frame you can go svelte enough to make technically a roller table and keep it robust enough to survive some minor cracking, and at that point the thing's not moving so you don't gotta worry about what the legs are doing anyway