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bird food bathtub
Aug 9, 2003

College Slice

Deviant posted:

Plz give settings, as this would explain my issues.

I use a range of sizes. I usually start with a few really big support tips going as high as 0.5mm contact area as anchors at the lowest point of the print, but I know those will leave big divots with my resin and setup so they're on the under side in areas I can sacrifice or as needed when there's an arm or gun hanging out at 90 degrees way off the model center. Normal stuff sprinkled throughout the model is 0.3 mm as these leave little spikes behind that can be cleaned up with an exacto. If needed around the top of the model I'll use 0.2mm as these tend to snap off cleanly but they don't offer a lot of support for me so it's usually spikes on the top of a helmet or whatever, highly visible stuff later on in the print.

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Doctor Zero
Sep 21, 2002

Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Deviant posted:

so, I left my resin+IPA mixture out in the sun in a cambro container to cure, and i have a nice layer of clear IPA on the top and all the resin has settled, but when i try to pour it through a coffee filter, it either just drips (like a coffee filter would?) or won't flow at all.

how can i seperate these two without over-agitating the solution and mixing the cured resin back into it? i was thinking using a cup or container to scoop the clean ipa off the top and just discard the last inch or so?

Maybe a different filter and a siphon pump+funnel?

Edit: wham bam has a setup i particularly like, gonna grab some of this stuff.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8jy0u7jqms

That's *dirty* resin????? :confused: poo poo, that's clean resin for me.

I honestly don't understand why they gently caress around with a siphon. It's way easier and quicker to just carefully pour the clean IPA off the top, just like they did in the beginning. if you don't pick up the settled IPA and do the safety dance or something, it doesn't agitate that much. :shrug:

I did learn one great tip from that though. They put their dirty resin in indirect sunlight. I was putting it in direct sunlight and then busting through the cocoon it forms. That looks like a much faster way to get the resin to settle.

RoboJoe
Dec 30, 2006

We cleanse.
You are the filth.



RoboJoe posted:

Ahh, I see. Thanks, I didn't know the firmware isn't very good for this printer as it's been perfectly fine for everything I've wanted to do so far.
I'll try to find that source code and figure out how to upgrade the firmware sometime!

Edit:
I saw this post on reddit: https://www.reddit.com/r/ElegooNeptune3/comments/yzto97/prusaslicer_and_incorrect_pauseresume_problem/
I started up a print, manually paused, and resumed and it didn't extrude any more, so I have this issue too. I've not needed to pause a print until I've tried manually pausing switching filaments mid-print today so maybe this is related to the auto-pause not functioning correctly.
I'm quoting myself because if anyone has either of these two problems with their Neptune 3; the M600 gcode not pausing, and filament not being extruded after manually pausing and resuming, I found that updating firmware to version 1.0.5 Beta from the neptune 3 github here helps:
https://github.com/NARUTOfzr/Neptune_3

Pause and resume works perfectly and will extrude filament properly, and while M600 does not work, the update mentions that M0 can be used to pause prints. I've tested this out and put M0 where I've tried M600 and sucessfully printed a 4 colour change print earlier. The printer paused at the layer, let me change the filament for a different colour, I could then hit resume and it would extrude and print the new colour properly, so that's great!

Claes Oldenburger
Apr 23, 2010

Metal magician!
:black101:

I dont understand how people clean their IPA in sunlight. Everytime I do it creates this *disgusting* white blob in the bottle. Maybe it's the resin type? I just leave the bottle inside to settle and that works well enough.

bird food bathtub
Aug 9, 2003

College Slice
I do it in the sun to guarantee any left over rinsed off resin is cured so I'm not trying to filter and deal with uncured resin and the risks associated with it. Mine can make a cloudy blob in the middle but that settles out after a while and with my system I have a lot of time to let it sit.

I use three containers, one first-wash I quick swirl the prints in to get the bulk off that gets nasty quick, one second wash where I do actual cleaning/breaking off supports, then the third one is sitting out in the sun. When I feel like it the sun container get filtered and becomes my new clean wash, the clean was becomes my new dirty wash, and the dirty wash goes out in the sun until I feel like rotating again.

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



when i put mine in the sun it becomes milky white and nothing ever settles, which is weird, like an entire mason jar of ipa that is milk white and just.. hasnt done anything

also, man my neptune 3 is really solid, thing has probably the cleanest prints of the 4 printers i have going right now.

tracecomplete
Feb 26, 2017

Yeah, I'm thinking about a 3 Pro. Between the Elegoo stuff and the Sovol stuff, we are really in the Cheap Good Printer era.

Unperson_47
Oct 14, 2007



I've developed the skill of losing a nozzle after changing to another to perfection.

m.hache
Dec 1, 2004


Fun Shoe
Speaking of nozzles, how often are you swapping yours out? I'm about through 2KG of PLA and I feel like I'm overdue.

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





I am a maniac and impulse purchased a glowforge. Going to try and sell naughty Christmas tree ornaments in my low class rural Oregon town.

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




m.hache posted:

Speaking of nozzles, how often are you swapping yours out? I'm about through 2KG of PLA and I feel like I'm overdue.

?????? buy better nozzles, my dude
I run through like, 50+ kilos before noticing any actual nozzle-related issues

e:
poo poo, actually, I've probably blasted through 10kg in the past month alone

AlexDeGruven
Jun 29, 2007

Watch me pull my dongle out of this tiny box


I only change nozzles when I see a problem that could be caused by a bad nozzle. I ran the shipped nozzle on my Ender3V2 for a solid year and a half and didn't swap nozzles until I got a new all-metal hotend last month.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

I put a nozzleX on all my machines and I don't think I've ever replaced one, despite using a lot of carbon filament. They just don't wear out.

If you're only doing unfilled PLA though the brass nozzles also should not wear out. Our lab machines have thousands of hours of printing and are still doing fine on their original kit nozzles.

Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 07:45 on Nov 23, 2022

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

There'll probably be deals during the weekend but woot has the sainsmart distributed version of the creality Ender 3 V2 for $229 today which is pretty good:
https://computers.woot.com/plus/sainsmart-3d-printers-engravers-and-more

I believe sainsmart is an official reseller and provide support. Woot is owned by amazon so if you have prime the shipping is free. They also have a desktop cnc router and two laser engravers of the blind you or your pets variety.

Paradoxish
Dec 19, 2003

Will you stop going crazy in there?

Sagebrush posted:

If you're only doing unfilled PLA though the brass nozzles also should not wear out. Our lab machines have thousands of hours of printing and are still doing fine on their original kit nozzles.

Yeah, I just replaced a nozzle on one of my printers because I had to take the hot end apart for unrelated reasons, and according to my records, the last time I replaced the nozzle was... last year? And that's on a machine that's running pretty much every day. I don't even know why I replaced it last year. The nozzle I just tossed was probably fine, too, just seemed silly not to toss another one on.

I think the last time I legitimately needed to replace a nozzle was after running around 6kg of "marble" PLA through it.

m.hache
Dec 1, 2004


Fun Shoe
Good to know. I'm just so used to clogs from the old ender 3 I was swapping those out regularly.

I'll have to run some config prints then to find out what's happening. I think the auto level is causing shenanigans on my base layer.

Serenade
Nov 5, 2011

"I should really learn to fucking read"
I went for hardened steel nozzles on my ender 3. I've only had to replace it once because the old one is currently encased in plastic. The nozzle is technically fine, just not terribly accessible.

My next printer will start with "plated copper" but it's actually not that hard to upgrade nozzle material once everything else is in place

insta
Jan 28, 2009

m.hache posted:

Good to know. I'm just so used to clogs from the old ender 3 I was swapping those out regularly.

I'll have to run some config prints then to find out what's happening. I think the auto level is causing shenanigans on my base layer.

Most "it worked and then it didn't" perpetual clogs on an Ender3 are from "upgraded" hotend fans like Noctuas, or from "upgrading" the bowden and not seating it fully, or similar issues.

m.hache
Dec 1, 2004


Fun Shoe

insta posted:

Most "it worked and then it didn't" perpetual clogs on an Ender3 are from "upgraded" hotend fans like Noctuas, or from "upgrading" the bowden and not seating it fully, or similar issues.

Yeah. This new one is a direct drive so my likely issue is leveling

The Chairman
Jun 30, 2003

But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

m.hache posted:

Yeah. This new one is a direct drive so my likely issue is leveling

If it's an S1, the owner's group on FB has discovered that some leveling weirdness is frequently caused by the Y axis rail being bolted down at the factory too tightly to the plastic part of the chassis, which has a tendency to warp it in one direction or the other (and which is exacerbated by the way the CR-Touch probe is offset from the nozzle). A lot of people reported success with untightening the bolts, then retightening them to hand-tight.

This might apply to other forms of the Ender-3 but I'm not familiar with the way their rails are mounted.

The Chairman fucked around with this message at 19:44 on Nov 23, 2022

m.hache
Dec 1, 2004


Fun Shoe

The Chairman posted:

If it's an S1, the owner's group on FB has discovered that some leveling weirdness is frequently caused by the Y axis rail being bolted down at the factory too tightly to the plastic part of the chassis, which has a tendency to warp it in one direction or the other (and which is exacerbated by the way the CR-Touch probe is offset from the nozzle). A lot of people reported success with untightening the bolts, then retightening them to hand-tight.

This might apply to other forms of the Ender-3 but I'm not familiar with the way their rails are mounted.

Interesting. I did find earlier on the cable from the filament sensor was actually rubbing against the wheel causing minor issues and elephant foots on one spot on my bed.

It's an S1 plus so good chance same problem

Dia de Pikachutos
Nov 8, 2012

If you're in AU, Sovol have SV06s in stock with free shipping.

They're advertising a discount code (BF3F) that gave me $30 off, so I just grabbed one for US$229 (AUD$340), which seems like an OK deal to me.

e: looks like the sale ends Nov 24 @ 1pm EST, which I assume is US EST, so early morning Nov 25th in AU

Dia de Pikachutos fucked around with this message at 22:35 on Nov 23, 2022

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

Holy poo poo, thanks for that coupon code. I was just talking with a friend today about wanting to buy another SV06, and that pretty much seals the deal. Happy Thanksgivmas to me!

queeb
Jun 10, 2004

m



not 3d print related but since i was putting my laser progress things in here, here's a follow up of what i have so far







I think i can make some sales on a nice quick little set of toss down tiles for people who dont want the entire 3d print terrain setup

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums
If it's a hit that's a very efficient product setup, nice.

Chainclaw
Feb 14, 2009

We decided to stop renting a workshop to save money, so the glowforge had to come home. I managed to barely fit it in our laundry room, I keep forgetting that you need to add like 6" to the depth it needs because of the hose.



I wish that Glowforge air filter didn't suck, we'd put this in another room in the house that wasn't so cramped and get that.

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Chainclaw posted:

We decided to stop renting a workshop to save money, so the glowforge had to come home. I managed to barely fit it in our laundry room, I keep forgetting that you need to add like 6" to the depth it needs because of the hose.



I wish that Glowforge air filter didn't suck, we'd put this in another room in the house that wasn't so cramped and get that.

I take it the big filter box they sell is the one you are referring to, and it does not work very well? Like expensive, proprietary filters, doesn't work, or all the above?

Chainclaw
Feb 14, 2009

IncredibleIgloo posted:

I take it the big filter box they sell is the one you are referring to, and it does not work very well? Like expensive, proprietary filters, doesn't work, or all the above?

I don't know the specifics, my partner has asked in various maker communities and no one seemed happy with theirs so she said we weren't allowed to get it.

Fanged Lawn Wormy
Jan 4, 2008

SQUEAK! SQUEAK! SQUEAK!
I’ve always had oozing issues for like a year with my chimera dual nozzle head. It all started further back with a nozzle change and then never quite being able to get the slicer config right again. Then they added prusaslicer configs and everything got better, but I still had more ooze when i did dual color prints than I thought reasonable no matter how much retraction i used.

I think i figured it out! It looks like the filament setting was using a 1 on extrusion multiplier. Took it back to .9 and its done wonders.

Doctor Zero
Sep 21, 2002

Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

queeb posted:

when i put mine in the sun it becomes milky white and nothing ever settles, which is weird, like an entire mason jar of ipa that is milk white and just.. hasnt done anything

also, man my neptune 3 is really solid, thing has probably the cleanest prints of the 4 printers i have going right now.

Have you tried breaking through the white crap? I thought the same thing too, but when I was going to dispose of it, i found out that the solid white crap is actually a cocoon of plastic and the IPA was clear and all in the middle. (although it stinks WAY more than clean IPA for some reason.)

If it is all solid, then the resin was too saturated to recover. You’d have to clean it a little more often.

A Real Happy Camper
Dec 11, 2007

These children have taught me how to believe.
What are some good options for printing in a cold garage?

I just got a neptune 3, and it's too cold in my garage to print, and there are too many curious critters that would knock things over/get hurt if I set it up inside during the winter. I assume some kind of enclosure that i can blow some hot air into would be good to at least start the printing process, then the heat from the printer itself could keep it warm enough to avoid warping/weirdness?

I will probably put things on hold until spring, but I'd like to at least get a couple prints done before I have to close up my shop for the winter.

Paradoxish
Dec 19, 2003

Will you stop going crazy in there?
How serious do you want to get?

To be honest, I wouldn't bother trying to do a stopgap solution with an enclosure and external heating. Just get a decent (fireproof) enclosure and toss either a car heater + temp controller or a tabletop egg incubator heater (something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078SH8DT2?tag=all3dp0c-20) in there. The whole thing should cost just a tad over $100, and you should be able to print reasonably reliably year-round. Heating a small 3d printer enclosure isn't that tough, so you might as well just go for it if your garage is going to be the permanent home for the printer.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


I was able to recover about 7.5-8L of 8.5L of IPA using a siphon pump, so that's good. got the last bits of liquid and solid resin outside to evaporate off in a disposable pan

SubNat
Nov 27, 2008

A Real Happy Camper posted:

What are some good options for printing in a cold garage?

One of those grow-op like tent enclosures, and a plant/seedling grow pad could probably do it pretty well.
A couple of them have thermostats, so you should be good as long as the heat loss isn't higher than the max heating the pads can do.

https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Seed...9310300&sr=8-15
It depends on how cold/drafty the garage would get though, since the pads are only 20-30W or so for the bigger ones.

Listerine
Jan 5, 2005

Exquisite Corpse

Paradoxish posted:

Just get a decent (fireproof) enclosure

What are some good fireproof enclosures, anyone have recs?

Snackmar
Feb 23, 2005

I'M PROGRAMMED TO LOVE THIS CHOCOLATY CAKE... MY CIRCUITS LIGHT UP FOR THAT FUDGY ICING.

Listerine posted:

What are some good fireproof enclosures, anyone have recs?

I've had a lot of problems with sourcing one for a reasonable price.. Tried Wayfair a couple of years ago and my order went from "in stock" to "oops actually we'll ship it in 5 months" so I cancelled it. :/

A Real Happy Camper
Dec 11, 2007

These children have taught me how to believe.

Paradoxish posted:

How serious do you want to get?

To be honest, I wouldn't bother trying to do a stopgap solution with an enclosure and external heating. Just get a decent (fireproof) enclosure and toss either a car heater + temp controller or a tabletop egg incubator heater (something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078SH8DT2?tag=all3dp0c-20) in there. The whole thing should cost just a tad over $100, and you should be able to print reasonably reliably year-round. Heating a small 3d printer enclosure isn't that tough, so you might as well just go for it if your garage is going to be the permanent home for the printer.

SubNat posted:

One of those grow-op like tent enclosures, and a plant/seedling grow pad could probably do it pretty well.
A couple of them have thermostats, so you should be good as long as the heat loss isn't higher than the max heating the pads can do.

https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Seed...9310300&sr=8-15
It depends on how cold/drafty the garage would get though, since the pads are only 20-30W or so for the bigger ones.

An enclosure is probably a must, since it will help with sawdust anyway, and seedling heaters are cheaper than I thought. The garage is pretty well sealed, but there's basically no airflow. Actually insulating it is high on my list of things to do next summer.

Marsupial Ape
Dec 15, 2020
the mod team violated the sancity of my avatar

A Real Happy Camper posted:

An enclosure is probably a must, since it will help with sawdust anyway, and seedling heaters are cheaper than I thought. The garage is pretty well sealed, but there's basically no airflow. Actually insulating it is high on my list of things to do next summer.

That’s idea…construct an enclosure out of 2” styrofoam board insulation. It may take 2 or 3 boards, but you can cut them to size easily with a utility knife. How you join them is your problem.

At the sewer plant, I had a fairly expensive “all weather” Hach sample pump station that loved to freeze in the winter, despite being heated. I had some sheet insulation left over from a previous project and basically duct-taped a cut-to-fit box to put over the untit until spring. Did the trick.

Marsupial Ape fucked around with this message at 03:22 on Nov 25, 2022

bird food bathtub
Aug 9, 2003

College Slice
Well poo poo, forgot to screw down the build plate on my last resin print and it slid all over the place screwing everything up. Didn't fall off and pierce the vat so that's cool at least. Anyone making adapter kits to turn those screws into spring locking mechanisms instead of screw locks? Not the first time I've done this.

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Doctor Zero
Sep 21, 2002

Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Marsupial Ape posted:

That’s idea…construct an enclosure out of 2” styrofoam board insulation. It may take 2 or 3 boards, but you can cut them to size easily with a utility knife. How you join them is your problem.

At the sewer plant, I had a fairly expensive “all weather” Hach sample pump station that loved to freeze in the winter, despite being heated. I had some sheet insulation left over from a previous project and basically duct-taped a cut-to-fit box to put over the untit until spring. Did the trick.

Gaffers tape would do the trick nicely. Or duct tape I suppose

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