|
Any recommendations on ink/powders etc for adding to resin? looking to fool around with clear resin and try tinting it green, making it glittery etc. The plan is to have a few dedicated vats with whatever Im fooling around with. E: sidenote, is there any truth to a ball-screw z-axis reducing layer visibility on a resin printer? If thats the case it would be huge, and much more important than resolution tbh https://www.anycubic.com/products/photon-m3-prem.ium-3d-printer w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 16:36 on Nov 25, 2022 |
# ? Nov 25, 2022 15:54 |
|
|
# ? May 30, 2024 15:39 |
|
w00tmonger posted:Any recommendations on ink/powders etc for adding to resin? 1: I can't rec any specific products, but look up any store that carries epoxy / 'glasscast' materials. They'll generally have pretty reasonable multipacks of alcohol inks intended for use in epoxies and resins, as well as pigments. I imagine any art-oriented store might have more expensive stuff. (And also metallic powders and etc in 5/20/100g batches.) I got a 10 pack of 'glasscast' colours pretty reasonably from a store that carried epoxy stuff here in Norway, but I've only used it in casting resin so far. (Though I'm very happy with them.) A suggestion is also to get a 'white' paint / opaque-ifier. Otherwise it's very difficult to actually control colours beyond just transparent tints that get darker and darker the more colour you put in. e: https://www.amazon.com/Alcohol-Bott...ps%2C205&sr=8-6 Something like that would work, they're fairly cheap. I don't think it needs to be any more specific than 'alcohol ink / for epoxy/resin' e2: I'll be trying that out myself in not too long once I get my Mars 3 Pro, ordered a bit of clear resin as well, so I'm curious to experiment with it. (Tinting vs painting, etc. ) SubNat fucked around with this message at 17:33 on Nov 25, 2022 |
# ? Nov 25, 2022 17:20 |
|
Well it was quite the ride but my CanBus setup is finally complete and up and running I need to go back and redo all my print tuning now but at least everything is working as expected. Need to print some wire hiders for the back wires too.
|
# ? Nov 25, 2022 23:13 |
|
Jesus Tittyfucking Christ, what hath I wrought?! I don't have an exact weight to share, because my little postal scale just said "gently caress Off" when I tried to put the thing on there. Two feet tall. Three feet long. Probably 10 or 12 pounds. The cats are terrified of it. I kind of am too. (e) For a bit of reference, I'm 5' 8" tall and averagely-built but a little bit beer-gutty at 195 lbs. mattfl posted:Well it was quite the ride but my CanBus setup is finally complete and up and running Acid Reflux fucked around with this message at 00:42 on Nov 26, 2022 |
# ? Nov 26, 2022 00:39 |
|
This might be a dumb question, but as I get closer to finishing up my voron build - is there any reason not to print stuff like tabletop terrain in abs?
|
# ? Nov 26, 2022 04:38 |
|
Mikey Purp posted:This might be a dumb question, but as I get closer to finishing up my voron build - is there any reason not to print stuff like tabletop terrain in abs? Fumes would be the main drawback I would imagine, otherwise I would think it would be perfectly functional.
|
# ? Nov 26, 2022 04:45 |
|
Mikey Purp posted:This might be a dumb question, but as I get closer to finishing up my voron build - is there any reason not to print stuff like tabletop terrain in abs? You absolutely can, as long as you can keep it from warping. PLA is the go to since it's so drat easy to print.
|
# ? Nov 26, 2022 05:07 |
|
Mikey Purp posted:This might be a dumb question, but as I get closer to finishing up my voron build - is there any reason not to print stuff like tabletop terrain in abs? Don't really need to strength tbh, and more expensive than some premium pla Pla is really easy to print too which can't be discounted
|
# ? Nov 26, 2022 06:22 |
|
ABS sands much more nicely than PLA though, and it can be vapor smoothed, if either of those are a factor here.
|
# ? Nov 26, 2022 08:12 |
|
Plus ABS 'feels' nicer.
|
# ? Nov 26, 2022 08:33 |
|
ImplicitAssembler posted:Plus ABS 'feels' nicer. ABS really does. It has that "real feel" that PLA and PETG don't really have. That first time I picked up a bit of ABS I'd printed it just.. felt.. more real? The same way PLA drink cups feel unnaturally heavy. There's some magic in materials, and how they feel.
|
# ? Nov 26, 2022 10:47 |
|
Acid Reflux posted:Jesus Tittyfucking Christ, what hath I wrought?! Now someone needs to modal MechaGamera to go with. So, how long did that beast take? I'm assuming it wasn't just one printer...
|
# ? Nov 26, 2022 12:52 |
|
^^ I would be all over a Mecha Gamera. In lieu, the same artist (Toymakr3D) also has a Mecha King Kong that I just bought the files for last night. Might be a little while before I get to it due to other some projects, but Godzilla is going to need a playmate eventually. I don't remember exactly when I started printing pieces for it, but it was a few days after mattfl posted his print back at the end of October. So maybe 20-ish days in total? working on and off with three printers. It really went quite a bit faster than I thought it was going to, even with a few days here and there where none of the machines were running because I was just busy with other stuff. In hindsight, I do not at all recommend scaling this model up. It's just friggin' ridiculous.
|
# ? Nov 26, 2022 13:52 |
|
I was under the impression that ABS doesn't take paint well. Is that untrue?
|
# ? Nov 26, 2022 17:58 |
|
Hey I skipped 5100 posts in this thread but someone I know asked me a question which I can't answer anymore Last I checked into this thread the advice was "Get a Prusa" if you want an FDM printer that Just Works (tm) or if you want something cheaper to tinker on to get the ... at the time Ender 3 v2 I think. What's the current recommendation?
|
# ? Nov 26, 2022 18:15 |
|
CommonShore posted:Last I checked into this thread the advice was "Get a Prusa" if you want an FDM printer that Just Works (tm) or if you want something cheaper to tinker on to get the ... at the time Ender 3 v2 I think. What's the current recommendation? Current recs for cheap printers are the Neptune 3 (or 3 Pro), and the Sovol SV6. I've heard that the 3 Pro and SV6 'Just Work' too, with their inductive probe for auto leveling and no bed screws that need to be adjusted. As an owner of a standard Neptune 3, it works well but it's firmware is basically just stock marlin, and there's a bit of weirdness setting the Z-offset.
|
# ? Nov 26, 2022 18:39 |
|
Entry-level printers like Neptune's and Sovol's have gotten pretty close to the "it just works" level (and Creality isn't too terrible either, they're just not the only game in town at that price point any more). The main draw of Prusa's printers nowadays is primarily the level of technical support and documentation they provide compared to the other brands, which still blows all the entry-level brands away -- it's probably worth the premium if you're looking to make money with 3D printing instead of just tinkering with it as a hobby.
|
# ? Nov 26, 2022 19:07 |
|
tracecomplete posted:I was under the impression that ABS doesn't take paint well. Is that untrue? If you use a good primer its not a problem in my experience. This was almost all printed ABS primed and/or painted with krylon fusion (and some stuff getting tamiya acrylics over that).
|
# ? Nov 26, 2022 19:13 |
|
I'm so goddamn close to pulling the trigger on an SV06 even though I have absolutely no use for it at all. It seems like such an interesting printer for the price point.
|
# ? Nov 26, 2022 19:16 |
|
Paradoxish posted:I'm so goddamn close to pulling the trigger on an SV06 even though I have absolutely no use for it at all. It seems like such an interesting printer for the price point. It is. It is also a bit of a throwback in some ways. Like, their new extruder might actually be worse from a user perspective than the Titan-style extruder on the SV01PRO. It's much more finicky to get filament to actually pass through the extruder box and into the hotend and it makes loading an enormous pain in the rear end when you're used to either moderate Bowdens or something like that SV01PRO; filament really wants to hit the bottom of the extruder box, bend, and wrap around the idler. I am told that this style of (problematic) loading makes it rather similar to the Prusas from which it obviously derives, but that's not a feature. I end up unscrewing the BMG-style lever on the side and guiding filament in with a slotted screwdriver, and that's stupid. I don't hate it. I might gift it at Christmas though. If I had the choice in hindsight, I'd buy a SV01PRO or SV05 instead.
|
# ? Nov 26, 2022 19:24 |
|
Are there any recommended brands/models for magnetic steel beds that fit the ender 3? Any pros/cons for PEI surface versus powder coat? Hoping to get away from relying on glue with the original creality flexible bed.
|
# ? Nov 26, 2022 20:59 |
|
tracecomplete posted:I was under the impression that ABS doesn't take paint well. Is that untrue? That is untrue. ABS is the most common engineering plastic on earth, and while it's usually just molded in the desired color, there are absolutely ways to paint it effectively. Just make sure the surface is clean and degreased, and use a high quality primer made for plastic. Of the usual 3D printing materials, the only one that I'd say is hard to paint is nylon. It has very low surface energy. Polyethylene and polypropylene are also huge pains in the rear end, but nobody prints with those.
|
# ? Nov 26, 2022 21:50 |
|
Made this travel TTRPG kit with a dice tower and counter for an upcoming Secret Santa gift; this is my first attempt using rub-and-buff wax to finish a model
|
# ? Nov 26, 2022 22:55 |
|
I’ve been fiddling around on my Steam Deck, and I’ve had a super fun afternoon. I hooked it up to my docking station for my work laptop, threw her into desktop mode and did some CAD! Prusa Slicer is available on the built in App Store, so I got to design and slice completely on that thing: I’m using the 3D Creator role from the SOLIDWORKS Makers Offer, but I’ve also used OnShape to great effect. I’m so dang pleased with this stuff!
|
# ? Nov 27, 2022 05:00 |
|
Nice! What is it?
|
# ? Nov 27, 2022 05:37 |
|
If you have to ask then you can’t afford it.
|
# ? Nov 27, 2022 05:44 |
|
It’s an adaptor for my dust collector for my miter saw! It has an existing port. I need to figure out how I’m going to get it by my bench grinder. I’m actually doing a livestream for SOLIDWORKS on this program next month. I’m pretty amped by how well it runs on the Deck.
|
# ? Nov 27, 2022 05:47 |
|
I actually just read that on the file name and was going to go back and edit my post into something else but now I can't. Well, looks good.
|
# ? Nov 27, 2022 05:48 |
|
The 1.0.5 beta firmware on my Neptune 3 has stopped the seemingly random Z-offset. Prior to that, on stock 1.0.3, sometimes it worked, sometimes I'd set it and then the head would slam into the print bed and gouge up the plate. I couldn't figure out any rhyme or reason for it to be honest. The Reddit is complaining that the attention is on the mega/pro printers and that the classic 3 will go neglected. Time will tell I guess, but, with this firmware I haven't had to jack around with level/Z, and I can just hit print and have things come out the printer.
|
# ? Nov 27, 2022 22:06 |
|
So... I'm 1 click away from blowing £2k on my first printer. The Phrozen 8k Mega. But there's a back Friday offer on and I just always wanted a good printer. I know it's huge, I know it's dumb, for a first printer and something I know nothing about but I just really want one and figure I can probably turn it into some kind of business plus I also working in traditional printing so I maybe able to use it at work etc. Now, does anyone here have one and could you tell me what kind of ventilation I'd probably need. I assume it has some kind of ventilation requirements but I couldn't find much of anything about it online from a cursory search and assumed someone here would know.
|
# ? Nov 27, 2022 22:09 |
|
Ragnar Gunvald posted:So... I'm 1 click away from blowing £2k on my first printer. The Phrozen 8k Mega. But there's a back Friday offer on and I just always wanted a good printer. I don't have one, but it looks like it has a pretty beefy enclosure. Where are you planning on printing? In a garage? If you have decent ventilation in the garage you will probably be fine while it is printing, especially if you use eco resin. Typically the ventilation requirement is for human comfort and safety, not the printing process. You will want to wear a respirator when working with it in terms of filling it, taking stuff off the plate, etc.... but when it is just there running, if the garage has standard ventilation it will probably be ok. It won't be ok in a room you intend to occupy, like a study or home office. Not just because of the machine, but your waste basket, IPA process station, etc... Not to talk you out of the 8k Mega but I think you would be better off with buying two Saturn 2 8ks. The Saturn 2 8k has a finer actual print resolution, and is still a functionally big enough printer. If you really want to start a business that involves resin 3d printing and have 2k to invest you would be better off getting two Saturn 2 8ks, a pair of Photon Mono 4ks, and a wash and cure station, plus replacement parts and resin for all. Having a single machine means you are only printing 1 plate at a time and are locked in to what is on that plate. Having more plates lets you do orders more efficiently, especially if you have orders or items that only have 1 tall item, or whatnot. Nothing worse than having a print take 4 hours longer because 1 of the 10 guys has a tall spear.
|
# ? Nov 27, 2022 22:51 |
|
Any particular reason you're starting with resin over FDM?
|
# ? Nov 27, 2022 22:57 |
|
Thanks for the replies, I am actually wanting to stick it in my living room because we live in central London and property here is ridiculously expensive so we're quite tight on space. I can prob easily hook up something to vent out of a window when it's in use, but we wouldn't be able to avoid using the room while it's in use. We're paying like, £2k a month on rent for a 1 bedroom apartment... So yeah. As for why resin over FDM, I just prefer the look of it and the detail. I'd likely want to print minis and cosplay stuff for potential sale and also just general dicking about. Mando helmets, iron man armour etc. The idea of just doing the bigger bits to high resolution/fine detail in a single pass is what I *want* to do. I do suppose I could stick it in the bedroom and just not use it during the evening. EDIT: IPA etc is something I work with regularly and that doesn't bother me quite so much, once things are washed etc I can just dispose of it as I wouldn't need to really keep it around too much and certainly not in open containers.
|
# ? Nov 27, 2022 23:17 |
|
You do not want resin printers running in your living space even when you aren't in it, full stop. Some hobbies don't work when living in small apartments, that's one of them.
|
# ? Nov 27, 2022 23:21 |
|
tracecomplete posted:You do not want resin printers running in your living space even when you aren't in it, full stop. Some hobbies don't work when living in small apartments, that's one of them. Seconding this. I currently have my resin printers in a spare bedroom that isn't being used for anything else. If I didn't have that spare room to dedicate to them, I wouldn't be able to do resin printing, period (I don't have a garage, and while I do have a storage shed, it doesn't have either electricity or HVAC connected to it). I definitely wouldn't think of putting them in the front room or kitchen or a bedroom where someone's gonna be sleeping, that's for sure. E: not resin printing, but now I'm reminded of the video I watched recently, where a guy had an FDM print farm of something like 13 Prusa Minis running in his one-bedroom apartment that he shared with his girlfriend. I kept thinking "but where do they sleep?" Sydney Bottocks fucked around with this message at 23:43 on Nov 27, 2022 |
# ? Nov 27, 2022 23:32 |
|
That's a shame, I may see if I can go in the cupboard with the washing machine but I dunno if that would work but appreciate the advice. It's always best to ask goons advice. So, would a FDM printer be more able to work in those locations?
|
# ? Nov 27, 2022 23:40 |
|
Ragnar Gunvald posted:That's a shame, I may see if I can go in the cupboard with the washing machine but I dunno if that would work but appreciate the advice. It's always best to ask goons advice. They would, provided you're only printing PLA and not some of the more exotic filaments that can give off very nasty fumes. Depending on which model you pick, some of them can actually run fairly quietly, too.
|
# ? Nov 27, 2022 23:44 |
|
Living in London sucks for just as many reasons as it's awesome... Hmm, could a small resin printer be ok in living areas? Or is that also still a very bad idea. (USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)
|
# ? Nov 27, 2022 23:46 |
|
Ragnar Gunvald posted:So, would a FDM printer be more able to work in those locations? Yeah, an FDM printer will be fine as long as you stick to the 'standard' filaments like PLA The problem with Resin is uncured UV resin hates your lungs and wants to kill you. It's fine if it's located in a well ventilated area you don't hang around in, but your main living space is just Bad News.
|
# ? Nov 27, 2022 23:47 |
|
|
# ? May 30, 2024 15:39 |
|
Ragnar Gunvald posted:Hmm, could a small resin printer be ok in living areas? Or is that also still a very bad idea. Have you ever worked with epoxy resin before, in any capacity? Go find a makerspace or a community class and figure out what you're actually getting into. I'm sure you have some thrilling notions of what this hobby might be like, but you absolutely need to dispel them before you start asking us how to get UV resin out of your shag carpet. There is no casual resin printing setup, it requires dedicated space. Honestly, have you even been in the same room as uncured resin? I don't think you'd be asking these questions if you had.
|
# ? Nov 28, 2022 00:20 |