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w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Any recommendations on ink/powders etc for adding to resin?

looking to fool around with clear resin and try tinting it green, making it glittery etc. The plan is to have a few dedicated vats with whatever Im fooling around with.

E: sidenote, is there any truth to a ball-screw z-axis reducing layer visibility on a resin printer? If thats the case it would be huge, and much more important than resolution tbh
https://www.anycubic.com/products/photon-m3-prem.ium-3d-printer

w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 16:36 on Nov 25, 2022

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SubNat
Nov 27, 2008

w00tmonger posted:

Any recommendations on ink/powders etc for adding to resin?

1: I can't rec any specific products, but look up any store that carries epoxy / 'glasscast' materials.
They'll generally have pretty reasonable multipacks of alcohol inks intended for use in epoxies and resins, as well as pigments. I imagine any art-oriented store might have more expensive stuff.
(And also metallic powders and etc in 5/20/100g batches.)
I got a 10 pack of 'glasscast' colours pretty reasonably from a store that carried epoxy stuff here in Norway, but I've only used it in casting resin so far. (Though I'm very happy with them.)
A suggestion is also to get a 'white' paint / opaque-ifier. Otherwise it's very difficult to actually control colours beyond just transparent tints that get darker and darker the more colour you put in.

e: https://www.amazon.com/Alcohol-Bott...ps%2C205&sr=8-6
Something like that would work, they're fairly cheap. I don't think it needs to be any more specific than 'alcohol ink / for epoxy/resin'

e2: I'll be trying that out myself in not too long once I get my Mars 3 Pro, ordered a bit of clear resin as well, so I'm curious to experiment with it. (Tinting vs painting, etc. )

SubNat fucked around with this message at 17:33 on Nov 25, 2022

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

Well it was quite the ride but my CanBus setup is finally complete and up and running





I need to go back and redo all my print tuning now but at least everything is working as expected. Need to print some wire hiders for the back wires too.

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

Jesus Tittyfucking Christ, what hath I wrought?!



I don't have an exact weight to share, because my little postal scale just said "gently caress Off" when I tried to put the thing on there.

Two feet tall. Three feet long. Probably 10 or 12 pounds.

The cats are terrified of it.



I kind of am too.

(e) For a bit of reference, I'm 5' 8" tall and averagely-built but a little bit beer-gutty at 195 lbs.



mattfl posted:

Well it was quite the ride but my CanBus setup is finally complete and up and running





I need to go back and redo all my print tuning now but at least everything is working as expected. Need to print some wire hiders for the back wires too.
This is absolutely glorious, my friend.

Acid Reflux fucked around with this message at 00:42 on Nov 26, 2022

Mikey Purp
Sep 30, 2008

I realized it's gotten out of control. I realize I'm out of control.
This might be a dumb question, but as I get closer to finishing up my voron build - is there any reason not to print stuff like tabletop terrain in abs?

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Mikey Purp posted:

This might be a dumb question, but as I get closer to finishing up my voron build - is there any reason not to print stuff like tabletop terrain in abs?

Fumes would be the main drawback I would imagine, otherwise I would think it would be perfectly functional.

Bondematt
Jan 26, 2007

Not too stupid

Mikey Purp posted:

This might be a dumb question, but as I get closer to finishing up my voron build - is there any reason not to print stuff like tabletop terrain in abs?

You absolutely can, as long as you can keep it from warping.

PLA is the go to since it's so drat easy to print.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Mikey Purp posted:

This might be a dumb question, but as I get closer to finishing up my voron build - is there any reason not to print stuff like tabletop terrain in abs?

Don't really need to strength tbh, and more expensive than some premium pla

Pla is really easy to print too which can't be discounted

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

ABS sands much more nicely than PLA though, and it can be vapor smoothed, if either of those are a factor here.

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

Plus ABS 'feels' nicer.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

ImplicitAssembler posted:

Plus ABS 'feels' nicer.

ABS really does. It has that "real feel" that PLA and PETG don't really have. That first time I picked up a bit of ABS I'd printed it just.. felt.. more real? The same way PLA drink cups feel unnaturally heavy.

There's some magic in materials, and how they feel.

Ygolonac
Nov 26, 2007

pre:
*************
CLUTCH  NIXON
*************

The Hero We Need

Acid Reflux posted:

Jesus Tittyfucking Christ, what hath I wrought?!



I don't have an exact weight to share, because my little postal scale just said "gently caress Off" when I tried to put the thing on there.

Two feet tall. Three feet long. Probably 10 or 12 pounds.

The cats are terrified of it.



I kind of am too.

(e) For a bit of reference, I'm 5' 8" tall and averagely-built but a little bit beer-gutty at 195 lbs.

This is absolutely glorious, my friend.

Now someone needs to modal MechaGamera to go with.


So, how long did that beast take? I'm assuming it wasn't just one printer...

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

^^ I would be all over a Mecha Gamera. In lieu, the same artist (Toymakr3D) also has a Mecha King Kong that I just bought the files for last night. Might be a little while before I get to it due to other some projects, but Godzilla is going to need a playmate eventually.

I don't remember exactly when I started printing pieces for it, but it was a few days after mattfl posted his print back at the end of October. So maybe 20-ish days in total? working on and off with three printers. It really went quite a bit faster than I thought it was going to, even with a few days here and there where none of the machines were running because I was just busy with other stuff.

In hindsight, I do not at all recommend scaling this model up. It's just friggin' ridiculous.

tracecomplete
Feb 26, 2017

I was under the impression that ABS doesn't take paint well. Is that untrue?

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Hey I skipped 5100 posts in this thread but someone I know asked me a question which I can't answer anymore


Last I checked into this thread the advice was "Get a Prusa" if you want an FDM printer that Just Works (tm) or if you want something cheaper to tinker on to get the ... at the time Ender 3 v2 I think. What's the current recommendation?

BadMedic
Jul 22, 2007

I've never actually seen him heal anybody.
Pillbug

CommonShore posted:

Last I checked into this thread the advice was "Get a Prusa" if you want an FDM printer that Just Works (tm) or if you want something cheaper to tinker on to get the ... at the time Ender 3 v2 I think. What's the current recommendation?

Current recs for cheap printers are the Neptune 3 (or 3 Pro), and the Sovol SV6.
I've heard that the 3 Pro and SV6 'Just Work' too, with their inductive probe for auto leveling and no bed screws that need to be adjusted.

As an owner of a standard Neptune 3, it works well but it's firmware is basically just stock marlin, and there's a bit of weirdness setting the Z-offset.

The Chairman
Jun 30, 2003

But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun
Entry-level printers like Neptune's and Sovol's have gotten pretty close to the "it just works" level (and Creality isn't too terrible either, they're just not the only game in town at that price point any more). The main draw of Prusa's printers nowadays is primarily the level of technical support and documentation they provide compared to the other brands, which still blows all the entry-level brands away -- it's probably worth the premium if you're looking to make money with 3D printing instead of just tinkering with it as a hobby.

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

tracecomplete posted:

I was under the impression that ABS doesn't take paint well. Is that untrue?

If you use a good primer its not a problem in my experience. This was almost all printed ABS primed and/or painted with krylon fusion (and some stuff getting tamiya acrylics over that).

Paradoxish
Dec 19, 2003

Will you stop going crazy in there?
I'm so goddamn close to pulling the trigger on an SV06 even though I have absolutely no use for it at all. It seems like such an interesting printer for the price point.

tracecomplete
Feb 26, 2017

Paradoxish posted:

I'm so goddamn close to pulling the trigger on an SV06 even though I have absolutely no use for it at all. It seems like such an interesting printer for the price point.

It is. It is also a bit of a throwback in some ways. Like, their new extruder might actually be worse from a user perspective than the Titan-style extruder on the SV01PRO. It's much more finicky to get filament to actually pass through the extruder box and into the hotend and it makes loading an enormous pain in the rear end when you're used to either moderate Bowdens or something like that SV01PRO; filament really wants to hit the bottom of the extruder box, bend, and wrap around the idler. I am told that this style of (problematic) loading makes it rather similar to the Prusas from which it obviously derives, but that's not a feature. I end up unscrewing the BMG-style lever on the side and guiding filament in with a slotted screwdriver, and that's stupid.

I don't hate it. I might gift it at Christmas though. If I had the choice in hindsight, I'd buy a SV01PRO or SV05 instead.

Tremors
Aug 16, 2006

What happened to the legendary Chris Redfield, huh? What happened to you?!
Are there any recommended brands/models for magnetic steel beds that fit the ender 3? Any pros/cons for PEI surface versus powder coat? Hoping to get away from relying on glue with the original creality flexible bed.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

tracecomplete posted:

I was under the impression that ABS doesn't take paint well. Is that untrue?

That is untrue. ABS is the most common engineering plastic on earth, and while it's usually just molded in the desired color, there are absolutely ways to paint it effectively. Just make sure the surface is clean and degreased, and use a high quality primer made for plastic.

Of the usual 3D printing materials, the only one that I'd say is hard to paint is nylon. It has very low surface energy. Polyethylene and polypropylene are also huge pains in the rear end, but nobody prints with those.

The Chairman
Jun 30, 2003

But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun
Made this travel TTRPG kit with a dice tower and counter for an upcoming Secret Santa gift; this is my first attempt using rub-and-buff wax to finish a model


NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

I’ve been fiddling around on my Steam Deck, and I’ve had a super fun afternoon. I hooked it up to my docking station for my work laptop, threw her into desktop mode and did some CAD! Prusa Slicer is available on the built in App Store, so I got to design and slice completely on that thing:




I’m using the 3D Creator role from the SOLIDWORKS Makers Offer, but I’ve also used OnShape to great effect.

I’m so dang pleased with this stuff!

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

Nice! What is it?

withak
Jan 15, 2003


Fun Shoe
If you have to ask then you can’t afford it.

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

It’s an adaptor for my dust collector for my miter saw! It has an existing port. I need to figure out how I’m going to get it by my bench grinder.

I’m actually doing a livestream for SOLIDWORKS on this program next month. I’m pretty amped by how well it runs on the Deck.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

I actually just read that on the file name and was going to go back and edit my post into something else but now I can't.

Well, looks good.

Partycat
Oct 25, 2004

The 1.0.5 beta firmware on my Neptune 3 has stopped the seemingly random Z-offset. Prior to that, on stock 1.0.3, sometimes it worked, sometimes I'd set it and then the head would slam into the print bed and gouge up the plate. I couldn't figure out any rhyme or reason for it to be honest.

The Reddit is complaining that the attention is on the mega/pro printers and that the classic 3 will go neglected. Time will tell I guess, but, with this firmware I haven't had to jack around with level/Z, and I can just hit print and have things come out the printer.

Ragnar Gunvald
May 13, 2015

Cool and good.
So... I'm 1 click away from blowing £2k on my first printer. The Phrozen 8k Mega. But there's a back Friday offer on and I just always wanted a good printer.

I know it's huge, I know it's dumb, for a first printer and something I know nothing about but I just really want one and figure I can probably turn it into some kind of business plus I also working in traditional printing so I maybe able to use it at work etc.

Now, does anyone here have one and could you tell me what kind of ventilation I'd probably need. I assume it has some kind of ventilation requirements but I couldn't find much of anything about it online from a cursory search and assumed someone here would know.

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Ragnar Gunvald posted:

So... I'm 1 click away from blowing £2k on my first printer. The Phrozen 8k Mega. But there's a back Friday offer on and I just always wanted a good printer.

I know it's huge, I know it's dumb, for a first printer and something I know nothing about but I just really want one and figure I can probably turn it into some kind of business plus I also working in traditional printing so I maybe able to use it at work etc.

Now, does anyone here have one and could you tell me what kind of ventilation I'd probably need. I assume it has some kind of ventilation requirements but I couldn't find much of anything about it online from a cursory search and assumed someone here would know.

I don't have one, but it looks like it has a pretty beefy enclosure. Where are you planning on printing? In a garage? If you have decent ventilation in the garage you will probably be fine while it is printing, especially if you use eco resin. Typically the ventilation requirement is for human comfort and safety, not the printing process. You will want to wear a respirator when working with it in terms of filling it, taking stuff off the plate, etc.... but when it is just there running, if the garage has standard ventilation it will probably be ok. It won't be ok in a room you intend to occupy, like a study or home office. Not just because of the machine, but your waste basket, IPA process station, etc...

Not to talk you out of the 8k Mega but I think you would be better off with buying two Saturn 2 8ks. The Saturn 2 8k has a finer actual print resolution, and is still a functionally big enough printer. If you really want to start a business that involves resin 3d printing and have 2k to invest you would be better off getting two Saturn 2 8ks, a pair of Photon Mono 4ks, and a wash and cure station, plus replacement parts and resin for all.

Having a single machine means you are only printing 1 plate at a time and are locked in to what is on that plate. Having more plates lets you do orders more efficiently, especially if you have orders or items that only have 1 tall item, or whatnot. Nothing worse than having a print take 4 hours longer because 1 of the 10 guys has a tall spear.

Dr. Fishopolis
Aug 31, 2004

ROBOT
Any particular reason you're starting with resin over FDM?

Ragnar Gunvald
May 13, 2015

Cool and good.
Thanks for the replies, I am actually wanting to stick it in my living room because we live in central London and property here is ridiculously expensive so we're quite tight on space. I can prob easily hook up something to vent out of a window when it's in use, but we wouldn't be able to avoid using the room while it's in use.

We're paying like, £2k a month on rent for a 1 bedroom apartment... So yeah.

As for why resin over FDM, I just prefer the look of it and the detail. I'd likely want to print minis and cosplay stuff for potential sale and also just general dicking about.

Mando helmets, iron man armour etc. The idea of just doing the bigger bits to high resolution/fine detail in a single pass is what I *want* to do.

I do suppose I could stick it in the bedroom and just not use it during the evening.

EDIT: IPA etc is something I work with regularly and that doesn't bother me quite so much, once things are washed etc I can just dispose of it as I wouldn't need to really keep it around too much and certainly not in open containers.

tracecomplete
Feb 26, 2017

You do not want resin printers running in your living space even when you aren't in it, full stop. Some hobbies don't work when living in small apartments, that's one of them.

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

tracecomplete posted:

You do not want resin printers running in your living space even when you aren't in it, full stop. Some hobbies don't work when living in small apartments, that's one of them.

Seconding this. I currently have my resin printers in a spare bedroom that isn't being used for anything else. If I didn't have that spare room to dedicate to them, I wouldn't be able to do resin printing, period (I don't have a garage, and while I do have a storage shed, it doesn't have either electricity or HVAC connected to it). I definitely wouldn't think of putting them in the front room or kitchen or a bedroom where someone's gonna be sleeping, that's for sure.

E: not resin printing, but now I'm reminded of the video I watched recently, where a guy had an FDM print farm of something like 13 Prusa Minis running in his one-bedroom apartment that he shared with his girlfriend. I kept thinking "but where do they sleep?"

Sydney Bottocks fucked around with this message at 23:43 on Nov 27, 2022

Ragnar Gunvald
May 13, 2015

Cool and good.
That's a shame, I may see if I can go in the cupboard with the washing machine but I dunno if that would work but appreciate the advice. It's always best to ask goons advice.

So, would a FDM printer be more able to work in those locations?

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

Ragnar Gunvald posted:

That's a shame, I may see if I can go in the cupboard with the washing machine but I dunno if that would work but appreciate the advice. It's always best to ask goons advice.

So, would a FDM printer be more able to work in those locations?

They would, provided you're only printing PLA and not some of the more exotic filaments that can give off very nasty fumes. Depending on which model you pick, some of them can actually run fairly quietly, too.

Ragnar Gunvald
May 13, 2015

Cool and good.
Living in London sucks for just as many reasons as it's awesome...


Hmm, could a small resin printer be ok in living areas? Or is that also still a very bad idea.

(USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)

BadMedic
Jul 22, 2007

I've never actually seen him heal anybody.
Pillbug

Ragnar Gunvald posted:

So, would a FDM printer be more able to work in those locations?

Yeah, an FDM printer will be fine as long as you stick to the 'standard' filaments like PLA
The problem with Resin is uncured UV resin hates your lungs and wants to kill you. It's fine if it's located in a well ventilated area you don't hang around in, but your main living space is just Bad News.

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Dr. Fishopolis
Aug 31, 2004

ROBOT

Ragnar Gunvald posted:

Hmm, could a small resin printer be ok in living areas? Or is that also still a very bad idea.

Have you ever worked with epoxy resin before, in any capacity? Go find a makerspace or a community class and figure out what you're actually getting into. I'm sure you have some thrilling notions of what this hobby might be like, but you absolutely need to dispel them before you start asking us how to get UV resin out of your shag carpet. There is no casual resin printing setup, it requires dedicated space.

Honestly, have you even been in the same room as uncured resin? I don't think you'd be asking these questions if you had.

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