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HGs usually have some extra on the v-fin tips to prevent injuries.
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Nov 27, 2022 05:22
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Midjack posted:V-fin nubs are always annoying. You can take them down with some careful side cutter and blade work, or just sand them down. Yeah, like I said I'll wait for my Raser to come in and sand it down later, I can do it with what I have but it took a while, and because these are smaller and seemingly more brittle I don't mind waiting.
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Nov 27, 2022 07:30
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Me looking at all the hand options on my kit: Haha gently caress yeah!!! Yes!! Me building all the hand options on my kit: Well this loving sucks. What the gently caress.
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Nov 27, 2022 12:02
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Am I the only one who prefers panel liner over Gundam market? Watching the capillary action in motion is hobby magic.
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Nov 27, 2022 15:23
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War and Pieces posted:Am I the only one who prefers panel liner over Gundam market? Watching the capillary action in motion is hobby magic. I really do, but i had a bad experience on my MG Dynames where it weakened the plastic and turned brittle. Don't know what I did wrong and am paranoid to use it again on anything I really like.
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Nov 27, 2022 15:57
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You need to have a coat of paint over the plastic to use enamel. Here's a paint chart More info here!
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Nov 27, 2022 16:26
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War and Pieces posted:Am I the only one who prefers panel liner over Gundam market? Watching the capillary action in motion is hobby magic. I saw the capillary action with a marker, so I'm a little bit confused
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Nov 27, 2022 16:56
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War and Pieces posted:Am I the only one who prefers panel liner over Gundam market? Watching the capillary action in motion is hobby magic. It's great but I did a number on my Moon Gundam because I didn't realize that you probably had to top coat it first
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Nov 27, 2022 17:26
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Are the G Witch Gunpla kits out yet? I checked with my local hobby shop and they're not getting in any G Witch high grades until February so they're on pre-order. I'm just wondering if there's a way I can get anything sooner.
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Nov 27, 2022 17:29
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The first batch of HGs came out in October, but a lot of overseas stores are just getting those first pre-orders out, so they're probably waiting to restock. There's also another batch coming out in Jan/Feb which might be what you're looking at.
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Nov 27, 2022 17:30
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Arc Hammer posted:Are the G Witch Gunpla kits out yet? I checked with my local hobby shop and they're not getting in any G Witch high grades until February so they're on pre-order. I'm just wondering if there's a way I can get anything sooner. I was going to order some yesterday from Newtype and they are all listed there as not releasing until December. So I just bought a RG Hi-Nu instead 
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Nov 27, 2022 17:32
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Waffleman_ posted:The first batch of HGs came out in October, but a lot of overseas stores are just getting those first pre-orders out, so they're probably waiting to restock. There's also another batch coming out in Jan/Feb which might be what you're looking at. I'm looking at the Zowort and the Llfrith Ur kits right now for my new year purchase.
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Nov 27, 2022 17:33
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Yeah, those two are part of the second batch.
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Nov 27, 2022 17:34
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My store got a few G-Witch kits, but only the Begir-Bu.
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Nov 27, 2022 17:37
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Carteret posted:I really do, but i had a bad experience on my MG Dynames where it weakened the plastic and turned brittle. Don't know what I did wrong and am paranoid to use it again on anything I really like. You could try the pour type Gundam Markers, I believe they aren't as harsh as the tamiya stuff people normally use. Edit: I use the Tamiya stuff still on bare plastic and have yet to have anything bad happen, but I also panel line while the pieces aren't assembled. It always seems like the biggest issue is using it on assembled pieces and the liner seeping into cracks. If I have a bigger model, like an MG, I like to panel line while they are still on the sprue/runner personally. (I do hear though that no matter what you definitely don't want it on bare ABS type plastic, but the instructions will tell you what each sprue/runner has on it) boz fucked around with this message at 18:54 on Nov 27, 2022 |
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Nov 27, 2022 18:50
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Marx Headroom posted:You need to have a coat of paint over the plastic to use enamel. Here's a paint chart Layman's guide is great for this stuff. Also note that like it says on the link, it's not a hard and fast rule. You can build up hotter paints on top of colder paints if you take time and use very light coats and allow sufficient drying time. (Airbrushing of course. Your probably going to ruin anything if your brush painting due to the friction it requires)
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Nov 27, 2022 19:45
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I do want to get the Zowort because it looks a lot like the Promethean Knight from Halo 4 which is about the only enemy design I actually like from that game.
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Nov 27, 2022 20:22
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boz posted:(I do hear though that no matter what you definitely don't want it on bare ABS type plastic, but the instructions will tell you what each sprue/runner has on it) Where does it say that?
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Nov 27, 2022 21:32
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For Bandai stuff, it's in parentheses beside the sprue letter. (PS), (ABS), etc.
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Nov 27, 2022 22:10
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FWIW, I've built 100+ kits with Tamiya panel wash with zippo lighter fluid for clean-up & never had anything become brittle. I don't paint it on, just let it run into the panel lines, then clean up 10 minutes later. Not discounting anybody that had it happen; maybe I'm just lucky & my next kit will crumble like it has gold plastic syndrome 
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Nov 27, 2022 23:14
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speaking of panel lining does anyone have any experience doing it with these nib pens? been using a very small brush but this seems more accurate https://www.amazon.com/Hobby-Gundam-Military-Permeate-Seepage/dp/B09MM23V41
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Nov 27, 2022 23:18
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anyone else have trouble with the HG hyaku shiki and the gold pieces not seperating cleanly? maybe my nippers gone dull but it only seemed like it was an issue with those specific sheets.
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Nov 28, 2022 00:46
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Okay I'm not the biggest strike freedom fan but the mgex looks god drat incredible from the reviews I've seen.
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Nov 28, 2022 01:01
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Kuvo posted:speaking of panel lining does anyone have any experience doing it with these nib pens? been using a very small brush but this seems more accurate I've seen people talk about using fountain pens for it before, and the conclusion they came to was "not great". It's a bit difficult to control the release rate or something? Complaints about an initial blob, and then it being no different to any other type of marking tool. The video of it in action on Amazon, where they're clearly using it just to 'inject' the ink rather than draw with it, makes it look pretty good so it might work. Your brush-based panel lining is very good judging from what you've posted earlier in the thread, so I guess you're looking at it from the perspective of saving effort? It's unlikely to be any worse than pour type markers, and ought to be a bit better than the brush that comes in the tamiya pots directly, at least. --- For the benefit of new starters, as a starter myself (who has watched WAY too many videos on youtube lately): If you're panel lining actual sunken lines in the plastic, then a "sakura pigma micron" type pen (a fineliner with ink that doesn't run, size say 003/0.15mm should get in most moulded parts) or pour-type panel liner (either gundam marker, or tamiya accent color panel liner applied by brush) will work best. If the line's not coming out clean with this method - for example when you go to clean up the application points you always take off too much - then take out a scribing tool (which may be a hobby knife blade, or even a needle - you can buy dedicated ones, and you don't need the crazy expensive madworks chisels for this) and SLIGHTLY, BARELY, deepen the lines a bit so the ink stays in them. Like three light scores tops, and make sure you're using something suitably thin enough rather than forcing in an entire blade. You'll need to use a damp cotton swab to clean up the odd spot, but it'll be hardly noticeable. You can also use other brands of dedicated panel line wash if you have them around or your local stores carry them, though they tend to require a bit more coercing with the brush/applicator because they don't flow quite as well as the aforementioned two brands. You can use thinner/flow improver to help with that if you have the stuff lying around. There are also model washes like GW's Nuln Oil. These are SLIGHTLY different to dedicated panel line washes, but not by very much - mostly it's a question of how much pigment it leaves behind whilst flowing and how thick it goes on at the first application. With these model washes you end up with a bit more pigment staining everywhere and you may need to do a bit more clean-up with the cotton swab. This is actually a sneaky way of doing shading as well as panel lining if you apply a couple of coats and clean up differently after each one so the lines are darkest, the edge dark, and the mid-panels pretty clean, though I've not seen enough people do it to know how good the result actually looks in the end. If you're trying to line along changes in profile where there's no dedicated channel in the plastic, then you might use a pen like a micron or acrylic paint felt tip or apply paint with a small brush. You could also try gently scribing a small channel into the edge so it attracts panel line products, or build up a bunch of shadow in the region with applciation of real touch marker (or, again, model washes). Real touch markers rub off really easy though, and need to be sealed by a layer of varnish, so aren't something to rush out and buy. You'll want to seal in acrylic/micron too, ideally, but it's less urgent than with the real touch stuff. For straight-up edge 'highlighting', say around the edge of a square forearm, where you're trying for a more outlined or cell-shaded look, then a paint brush loaded for edge "highlighting" or the felt-tip type acrylic paint markers (you don't really need to get the specific gundam marker brand for this, and can probably find some in your local supermarket) are the cheap and easy way to go. You just brush the side of the pen tip / brush along the edge gently, and it'll pick up the paint as you go. When cleaning up application points and so forth, water'll do just fine most of the time, even with enamels so long as you get to it within a couple of minutes. 70%+ isopropyl alcohol or similar if you've got a bad puddle and water isn't helping. The swab should be just damp, use a paper towel to take off excess water - you're wicking up paint excess with it, not depositing water/alcohol (can be a pain with 99% alcohol because it tends to dry off so fast).
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Nov 28, 2022 01:20
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wdarkk posted:My store got a few G-Witch kits, but only the Begir-Bu. My store just got Guel's custom. It seems Japanese demand outstripped supply a good deal, meaning that smaller places can only pick up the less popular kits. (Even the Ensemble Aerial is going for absurd amounts of money some places. Glad I grabbed the set when it was up for preorder. Might be a pain to get a little Graze otherwise.)
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Nov 28, 2022 01:24
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Not gunpla, but gently caress it, it's cute: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rC-PttkDvpI
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Nov 28, 2022 01:37
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Nullkigan posted:I've seen people talk about using fountain pens for it before, and the conclusion they came to was "not great". It's a bit difficult to control the release rate or something? Complaints about an initial blob, and then it being no different to any other type of marking tool. The video of it in action on Amazon, where they're clearly using it just to 'inject' the ink rather than draw with it, makes it look pretty good so it might work. With a fountain pen that's probably what is expect -they have a rounded ball at the end to make a constant line (and feel smooth on the page). If people are interested, I can do some experiments with dip pens that have a sharp nib (which I think this "panel liner" is)
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Nov 28, 2022 02:23
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My local hobby shop has a bunch of Warrior At the Borderlands kits that are sitting around. What's good in that line? I heard some praise for its kits.
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Nov 28, 2022 03:29
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wdarkk posted:My local hobby shop has a bunch of Warrior At the Borderlands kits that are sitting around. What's good in that line? I heard some praise for its kits. The Bunyip Boomerang is a fantastic kit and I love its leg gimmicks. The only partsforming is for the transparent chocks to keep the feet upright and the melee subarms too, it's a real good toy to fiddle with.
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Nov 28, 2022 03:39
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Remember to paint your Bunyip Boomerangs green and gold 
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Nov 28, 2022 04:32
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wdarkk posted:My local hobby shop has a bunch of Warrior At the Borderlands kits that are sitting around. What's good in that line? I heard some praise for its kits. The only I've bought is Ghost (because that's the only really good design in that show imo) and it was really fun, nice size on it too.
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Nov 28, 2022 04:52
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wdarkk posted:My local hobby shop has a bunch of Warrior At the Borderlands kits that are sitting around. What's good in that line? I heard some praise for its kits. They're pretty much all well engineered kits. The issue is that the show is dire, and they're on the expensive side if not on sale. If you don't mind the one and can work around the other, you probably won't go wrong with any design you like.
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Nov 28, 2022 05:08
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GreenBuckanneer posted:I saw the capillary action with a marker, so I'm a little bit confused There's a few types of the panel liner Gundam markers and the 'flow' type does flow with capillary action, but most people use the fineliner type because its easier to control and has easier cleanup. Stairmaster posted:anyone else have trouble with the HG hyaku shiki and the gold pieces not seperating cleanly? maybe my nippers gone dull but it only seemed like it was an issue with those specific sheets.
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Nov 28, 2022 05:48
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qcjAUN5Ssj8
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Nov 28, 2022 05:52
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So, turns out Krylon primer will melt polystyrene if I spray it wrong, “craft foam safety” be damned. I should have tested it on a runner, but at least I only tested it on an HG Z’gok instead.
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Nov 28, 2022 06:09
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CommunityEdition posted:So, turns out Krylon primer will melt polystyrene if I spray it wrong, “craft foam safety” be damned. I should have tested it on a runner, but at least I only tested it on an HG Z’gok instead. which of their primers did you use? I have not heard of it doing that on games workshop PS for example
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Nov 28, 2022 06:16
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I've never had that happen on GW models, or resin, the former should be polystyrene afaik looks like the only info is that it's PS, with a few people claiming there's some ABS mixed in, but no one is able to back it up exactly. edit: as I'm leaving reviews I see this monstronsity:  GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 07:23 on Nov 28, 2022 |
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Nov 28, 2022 06:58
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Kuvo posted:speaking of panel lining does anyone have any experience doing it with these nib pens? been using a very small brush but this seems more accurate I tried this with one of those, and my take away was it's fun to play around with, but ultimately the result didn't seem to be any better.
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Nov 28, 2022 07:27
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If this is painted as weathered bronze-cast or stone monument, it'll still work.
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Nov 28, 2022 07:49
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Marx Headroom posted:You need to have a coat of paint over the plastic to use enamel. Here's a paint chart I've heard on scale model chats that what you really need is a gloss coat. That protects the paint from the enamel wash, helps the panel liner's capillary action, and eases cleanup. It's truly amazing to see the panel liner just flow to where it's needed, it's like modelling magic. You just touch the brush with liner on it to a section of panel lines and it just flows. Again, like magic. This isn't perfect, but...  I ended up stripping and re-doing the wings. Goddamn this kit is a fussy build.
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Nov 28, 2022 08:22
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