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oXDemosthenesXo posted:I have a very similar setup in my shop that I've had for years now. It’s more so I can wheel it out of the way when I need to get a car back into the shop. I’ll have room to push it to the back of the shop and still fit in a car for work if I need to. I’m working in a 20x24 shop with one permanent Miata resident. I don’t plan on moving it unless I have to do something terrible in winter. Edit: I measured and I’ll have 9’ of room behind me with a 10’ table before anything hits the mitre saw spot. I’m stuck tripping over a kayak if I don’t do this is kind of the alternative though. Sockington fucked around with this message at 21:38 on Nov 27, 2022 |
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Nov 27, 2022 21:23
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Sockington posted:It’s more so I can wheel it out of the way when I need to get a car back into the shop. I’ll have room to push it to the back of the shop and still fit in a car for work if I need to. I’m working in a 20x24 shop with one permanent Miata resident. How heavy is this heavy kayak (with motor) can you rig up something to keep it overhead?
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Nov 27, 2022 22:37
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wesleywillis posted:How heavy is this heavy kayak (with motor) can you rig up something to keep it overhead? The garage door takes up the convenient space upfront so I’d have to get it past the car and everything else. I figured this way, open the garage door and jam it under the outfeed table and have zero mucking about with hanging it overhead. Add some ballast to the table. With the motor attached, probably 150lbs or more. It’s more like a small boat.
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Nov 27, 2022 23:18
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Leperflesh posted:I wanna highlight this because IMO it's really really important. A flat table top attached to four legs is extremely wobbly in all directions without something to prevent racking. There are several approaches. Aprons/skirts are among the most common and highly effective, the wider the apron the stiffer the leg attached to it will be. If you're making a free-standing table, I think you should start with a design that has aprons and only remove them if you've replaced them with something else that will resist racking forces. From a few pages back, does this apply to the metal hairpin legs you can buy and fasten to whatever table top? I'm not much of a woodworker but was hoping to get a decent kitchen table out of laminated 2x material and a set of hairpin legs. I know pine is poor choice for this but I dont wanna break the bank for my first endeavor of this size.
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Nov 28, 2022 21:12
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BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:From a few pages back, does this apply to the metal hairpin legs you can buy and fasten to whatever table top? I'm not much of a woodworker but was hoping to get a decent kitchen table out of laminated 2x material and a set of hairpin legs. I know pine is poor choice for this but I dont wanna break the bank for my first endeavor of this size. I'm not super familiar with hairpin legs, but from looking at images, they're no more immune to racking than wooden ones would be. You'd need to weld them to the table to get a solid join that wouldn't wobble or work its way loose over time. I'd say that hairpin legs are OK for occasional-use tables (e.g. a hall table) but I wouldn't recommend them for a dining table.
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Nov 28, 2022 21:49
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Sockington posted:I cleared a big metal shop table out of my garage that just wasn’t working for what I need. Put the Subaru outside since it’s just a beater car. Last A better saw.
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Nov 28, 2022 22:35
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Will drawer slides bind up if your cabinet is not perfectly square, or do they have some margin for error built in?
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Nov 29, 2022 05:58
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revtoiletduck posted:Will drawer slides bind up if your cabinet is not perfectly square, or do they have some margin for error built in? They've got some slop built in. You don't have to be perfect, but at least pretty close.
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Nov 29, 2022 06:03
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revtoiletduck posted:Will drawer slides bind up if your cabinet is not perfectly square, or do they have some margin for error built in? You need to allow and/or adjust for it. The slides should be square within the hole if the drawer is presumably squared, otherwise you'll have a corner or one side of the drawer sticking out. Which is maddening.
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Nov 29, 2022 14:34
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The first (and I guess only) thing I've built with drawers wasn't perfectly square and I could feel the slides binding. Ended up putting shims where needed to align stuff.
Uthor fucked around with this message at 17:52 on Nov 29, 2022 |
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Nov 29, 2022 15:11
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revtoiletduck posted:Will drawer slides bind up if your cabinet is not perfectly square, or do they have some margin for error built in? Nice undermount slides are much, much more forgiving in this regard than side mounts.
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Nov 29, 2022 17:35
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I don't think I can do undermount since the drawer is going at the bottom. It's basically a bookcase with drawers under the bottom shelf. I'm planning to add a 2x4 (so I can add leveling feet) and the drawer slide would screw into that. Maybe the easiest thing to do would be planing that 2x4 to yield a square face to attach the slides.
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Nov 29, 2022 17:40
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revtoiletduck posted:I don't think I can do undermount since the drawer is going at the bottom. It's basically a bookcase with drawers under the bottom shelf.
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Nov 29, 2022 17:42
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Undermounts are mounted to the side of the cabinet but the bottom of the drawer. They do eat some depth of the drawer. They may not be the best option for you and they are pricier than side mounts, but oh my god they are so much easier to work with and adjust. Oh, that's interesting. I'll look into it. It's a project for my wife, so if she wants to pay for the more expensive slides, that's fine by me!
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Nov 29, 2022 17:53
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Sockington posted:I cleared a big metal shop table out of my garage that just wasn’t working for what I need. Put the Subaru outside since it’s just a beater car. Last Keep in mind that if your outfeed table is flush with your table saw, the router slots in your table saw will have "stops" now where the outfeed table starts, which will limit how far you can push a miter gauge through. To fix this you can cut miter slots into the outfeed table. If you intend to do that it's best to plan to do it ahead of time: you can't cut a very good miter slot into melamine, for example, it'll tend to chip out badly, but you can cut a wider slot into melamine and embed metal miter slot channel into it. Having a miter slot also means you need to keep your saw and your outfeed table perfectly aligned whenever you're using the slot. Even if you don't use a miter gauge much, you probably will want to use a sled, and your sled is going to sit in that slot and definitely needs to be able to have the leading edge go past the back edge of the table saw's table. Also pay attention to the join between the table and the saw. If it's pretty tight, sawdust and chips will hang up in it. I think a small gap is a good idea, although if there's a small gap, material you're sliding off the saw onto the table may occasionally catch or hang on it. IMO a gap of maybe an eighth to a quarter inch is good enough to let dust and stuff fall through without stuff catching. Lastly I'll just say that if you find yourself doing a lot of big material you're going to want a cabinet type table saw sooner rather than later. Your little portable/contractor saw is servicable and may be all you need, depending on your projects... but if that's true, you probably don't need a giant permanent outfeed table. If you're gonna have a big table regardless, just for project space, and you want to make it work with your current table saw, that's understandable, but in that case I'd have the saw on a separate stand from the table so you can easily replace it in four years with a different saw that has a different height/dimensions/etc. and just butt the outfeed table up to the saw's stand. These are all basically compromises that you have to make decisions on now, before you really know what is going to wind up being annoying, so don't worry too much about it. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 18:10 on Nov 29, 2022 |
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Nov 29, 2022 18:08
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Mr. Mambold posted:A better saw.
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Nov 29, 2022 19:27
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Speaking of mediocre tools! I finally got around to dragging this ancient jointer home. It was my dad's and spent the last 35ish years taking up room in my parents garage. (Fence removed in this picture)  I tore it apart, cleaned, lubricated, and reassembled most of it already. Everything seems to move as intended but I haven't taken the time to sharpen the blades yet. They were dull enough that I haven't bothered with a test cut. I found some suggested jigs to get decently sharp and consistent edges so we'll see how that goes. It's only 4" wide and ~24" long at most so it's not going to be an amazing tool in any case but it's been a fun little project.
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Nov 29, 2022 19:41
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BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:From a few pages back, does this apply to the metal hairpin legs you can buy and fasten to whatever table top? I'm not much of a woodworker but was hoping to get a decent kitchen table out of laminated 2x material and a set of hairpin legs. I know pine is poor choice for this but I dont wanna break the bank for my first endeavor of this size. you can build a leg out of steel that's a lot more svelte than its wood equivalent, but that won't help you at the point it meets the tabletop and a big unsupported steel bar stuck to a 2x4 is basically just a handy lever to pull screws out with. On the plus side you can reuse the legs once they fall off A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 22:17 on Nov 29, 2022 |
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Nov 29, 2022 21:50
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Leperflesh posted:Really helpful and insightful bits Thanks a ton. These are the kind of things I need to think about over winter break while I clean up the rest of the shop. Hell, I haven’t even finished the project that generated the thread title but planing boards was such a mess with my previous setup. The better table saw comment is totally inline with the plan. The $60 Craftsman special can get some stuff cut okay-ish once I added the feather board to it. I’ve definitely been looking for something to get after Christmas and I mainly see three options; - Bosch, DeWalt and other brand general 10” construction table saws. Some belt driven, avoiding direct drive again. - older cast iron top floor models that lack some of the nice fence solutions. Some cabinet models don’t do a 45* bevel cut and that might be limiting. Others are generic newer King models from Busy Bee - absolute poo poo piles like my saw  Things are still a nightmare mess from taking out the steel table. I just threw everything on the floor and dragged it out. The table saw is sitting roughly where I’d keep it - gives me 9ft behind it until the mitre saw stand. It would leave me with about a 9’ x 8’ open floor space for whatever the hell.  Built a non-fancy little stand for the sheet metal brake. Been meaning to make one for a couple years and have lugged that thing around the shop too many times.  Once I get the floor cleaned up I can setup the planer again and finish off my leg vise build. Sockington fucked around with this message at 23:58 on Nov 29, 2022 |
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Nov 29, 2022 22:52
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Finally done with my first commission! Eleven of these cubbies delivered. My price was $400 each, of which I estimate $150 was materials (plywood, finish, sandpaper, etc). I was shooting for a shop rate of $50/hr and I beat that, I was closer to 4 hours per cubby. So happy to have these out of my house. There was a moment of panic when I was carrying the first one out, it barely turned the corner of the basement stairs. Behind the scenes: 
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Nov 30, 2022 00:49
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the cubbies have me wondering: what's everyone's favourite method of joining a utility box, and why do you prefer that method?
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Nov 30, 2022 00:51
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What do you mean by utility box? Ugly shop furniture? I'd use dowels and screws. Nicer box? Box joints. Really nice box? Miters and splines or dovetails.
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Nov 30, 2022 00:53
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CommonShore posted:the cubbies have me wondering: what's everyone's favourite method of joining a utility box, and why do you prefer that method?
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Nov 30, 2022 00:54
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NomNomNom posted:What do you mean by utility box? Ugly shop furniture? I'd use dowels and screws. Nicer box? Box joints. Really nice box? Miters and splines or dovetails. I guess I mean anything where the visual appeal of the joint isn't part of the design, so yeah, shop furniture, cubbies, basic shelves, the hidden joints on drawers, etc.
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Nov 30, 2022 00:55
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I'm all over the place, but if I just need *a box* it'll probably be glued butt joints and brad nails, with the bottom glued on and narrow crown stapled. Maybe really shallow rabbets to help assemble if I'm feeling saucy, but that's pretty rare. After that point I'll almost always just jump straight to box joints if I can fit it in my jig.
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Nov 30, 2022 01:03
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CommonShore posted:the cubbies have me wondering: what's everyone's favourite method of joining a utility box, and why do you prefer that method? Glue and screw butt joints.
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Nov 30, 2022 01:07
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CommonShore posted:the cubbies have me wondering: what's everyone's favourite method of joining a utility box, and why do you prefer that method? Chunky ugly dovetails cause I need to cut more dovetails
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Nov 30, 2022 01:14
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:screw butt joints. 
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Nov 30, 2022 01:14
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CommonShore posted:the cubbies have me wondering: what's everyone's favourite method of joining a utility box, and why do you prefer that method? Half blind dovetails with some sort of marquetry or parquetry on all sides 
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Nov 30, 2022 01:20
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CommonShore posted:I guess I mean anything where the visual appeal of the joint isn't part of the design, so yeah, shop furniture, cubbies, basic shelves, the hidden joints on drawers, etc. For drawer boxes I just use pocket screws & glue because I am lazy and they work, and that's mostly what I do for shop furniture stuff that needs structural integrity. I should probably just get a cordless nailer, I hear they're pretty good now.
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Nov 30, 2022 01:31
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Love my ryobi Brad nailer. I splurged for the brushless model but I'm not sure that was necessary. Looking for a counterbore bit that I can follow with dowel plugs, anyone have a favorite?
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Nov 30, 2022 02:23
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I know you meant this is a joke and the following is directed more broadly at the thread as a whole and not you personally, but please no tool shaming itt. We all started somewhere and I hate the idea that someone might read this thread and thinks tools are a limiting factor on anyone's ability to do good work. Bad tools can certainly be frustrating but they can usually get the job done and its very possible to do good work with bad tools (with some work on the bad tools). There are definitely better tools, and safer tools, and more precise tools, but one doesn't need any of them to start woodworking. I wasn't joking, and I wasn't picking on that saw. Based on what he's planning to spend timewise and cashwise on hardening up that bench, I honestly think he should have a saw that complements it and vice-versa. Otoh, Your advice re: miter gauge channels was okay for that specific saw set in that pocket, but overall impractical, which you noted, imo. Whereas with a bigger free-standing saw, he can move it an easy foot away (with bridging runners maybe or maybe not), not worry about channels in the bench at all, and have the 2 extra feet that jobsite saw vacates. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Narrow crown staples and glue. It’s not pretty but it’s fast and plenty strong and staples hold about 4x better than nails/brads according to my unscientific and anecdotal evidence. Same, but sans glue, since it's butt joints. And use the drawer bottom to square the box up. Mr. Mambold fucked around with this message at 02:27 on Nov 30, 2022 |
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Nov 30, 2022 02:25
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CommonShore posted:the cubbies have me wondering: what's everyone's favourite method of joining a utility box, and why do you prefer that method? I like doing rabbets, just to make sure I don't try to lazily freehand it with a brad nailer and end up with noneuclidean boxes.
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Nov 30, 2022 02:40
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Speaking of box joints, anyone have a good method for it on a bandsaw? I imagine freehanding that would get tricky to match up, but then again I haven't tried yet.
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Nov 30, 2022 02:51
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”Advert” posted:Victor Shaver built this bench about 100 years ago as a cabinetry student. It incorporates hand cut dovetails, mortise and tendon joints, pegs, tongue and,groove and lathe turned vice handles. I bought it from him nearly 50 years ago. Both ( steel screw) vices work well. Just a cool piece of history on marketplace for well above anything I’d spend on a work table ($3.5k)   
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Nov 30, 2022 12:41
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I love me some good tusked tenons but 3500$ is upscale man-cave statement piece money, not workbench that actually get used as such money.
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Nov 30, 2022 13:19
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drat i should trade in my old sears kit bench for everything in the rockler catalogue
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Nov 30, 2022 13:57
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Bob Mundon posted:Speaking of box joints, anyone have a good method for it on a bandsaw? I imagine freehanding that would get tricky to match up, but then again I haven't tried yet. Pretty much any tool other than a bandsaw, although it's doable. Table saw with dado insert is quick, dirty & accurate. Same with a good router table setup. <-- These both need accurate fences.
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Nov 30, 2022 17:38
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Bob Mundon posted:Speaking of box joints, anyone have a good method for it on a bandsaw? I imagine freehanding that would get tricky to match up, but then again I haven't tried yet. Yeah I'm a bandsaw's biggest fan, but they aren't going to be great for a box joint. Maybe with a bunch of even thickness spacers or something? Usually a box joint jig works by indexing off the kerf of a router bit or dado stack or w/e which is the same width as the male part, and bandsaws have tiny kerfs.
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Nov 30, 2022 18:44
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Mr. Mambold posted:I wasn't joking, and I wasn't picking on that saw. Based on what he's planning to spend timewise and cashwise on hardening up that bench, I honestly think he should have a saw that complements it and vice-versa. To be fair to Kaiser Schnitzel, who is a much more knowledgable woodworker than me, that was me talking about miter gauge channels. I haven't tried positioning an outfeed table a foot away, I feel like a lot of time my work piece would sag down into the gap or just fall into it if I did that. Maybe it'd be fine for boards, but for example thin plywood I don't think that'd work well? Or you're suggesting bridging runners, I guess I'm not quite picturing that.
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Nov 30, 2022 19:38
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