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PainterofCrap posted:Six thousand bucks will re-home a lot of cats, and get you a truckload of mouse traps & poisons of every stripe. The nice part of the inspection the company did to give me a quote is they pointed out a couple spots that are clear ingress. If I do go the DIY route I might ask for a more detailed report before I tell them "actually nevermind, I can't afford this right now."
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Dec 5, 2022 05:32
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 I have this broken window lock/latch, guessing at the logo, looks to be a Milgard window. The mechanism is in this up position which equals unlocked, pressing and holding the piece down does not engage the locking mechanism. The latch is also permanently in this up/unlocked position. Any ideas if this is fixable by either me or a pro without putting a whole new window in? I can of course try to contact the company but figured ya'll would be a better starting point. These windows were installed at some point by a PO so I can't contact the install company about this.
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Dec 5, 2022 05:40
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It could just be a magic feather but I find those ultrasonic things do well to keep mice away
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Dec 5, 2022 05:45
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Opopanax posted:It could just be a magic feather but I find those ultrasonic things do well to keep mice away Yeah, those ultrasonics don't usually do anything. There's been a lot of testing and while mice may not love the sound it never really deters them from going for food. If you want a spray foam there's specific kinds for rodent prevention, don't just get great stuff. Also if you have gaps and don't want to use foam, you want to stuff exclusion product in them which is like steel wool but usually copper based so that it won't rust away as easily. Metal is generally stuff that the mice won't chew through because it bothers them to gnaw at it. You can also just use bits of solid metal to cover openings but jamming exclusion products in so they can't pull them out is usually what's done since it's easier to target specific spots and less costly. Indoors you can use some peppermint oil based products to keep mice away from specific areas, they don't like the strong smell. It's very localized, though and needs to be reapplied. I've used actual peppermint essential oil as well as Rodent Sherriff to spray around. It seems to help but has its limitation. As has been said, the best ways to get rid of them is to seal entrances they use as well as you can and trap or poison the ones still inside. Poison is a broad term as there's commonly available stuff now that shouldn't kill everything else that might eat a dead mouse as long as it's large enough. Also the downsides to poison are that they might die in your walls somewhere that you can't get at them and then there'll be a stink for a week or more.
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Dec 5, 2022 10:41
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PainterofCrap posted:spread something all over the place that the mice would eat & then die somewhere else. To be clear don't do this. It poisons the entire food chain. You need to seal, trap, and pray nothing dies in the walls.
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Dec 5, 2022 17:24
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H110Hawk posted:To be clear don't do this. It poisons the entire food chain. You need to seal, trap, and pray nothing dies in the walls. Username checks out.
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Dec 5, 2022 17:50
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tangy yet delightful posted:
Replace the latch assembly: https://completewindowcare.com/product/milgard-smart-touch-handle-set-white/
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Dec 5, 2022 17:56
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H110Hawk posted:To be clear don't do this. It poisons the entire food chain. You need to seal, trap, and pray nothing dies in the walls. Rat-X it’s not a poison; it blocks their digestive tracts
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Dec 5, 2022 17:58
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Personally I'd recommend just getting some of those snap traps, and getting used to handling dead mice bodies. It's way more humane and won't gently caress up your environment.
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Dec 5, 2022 18:26
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PainterofCrap posted:Rat-X it’s not a poison; it blocks their digestive tracts Fair enough. You said poison earlier in the post and didn't clarify rat-x later. At a minimum I wanted to reinforce the sentiment that actual poison shouldn't be used. Also little mousy death zapper death chambers work well if you're squeamish and very reasonably don't want to deal with snap traps. It's what I would use because ew. They zap em dead then you dump the corpse out into the trash. Push a button and it's ready to go again.
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Dec 5, 2022 18:30
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PainterofCrap posted:Replace the latch assembly: https://completewindowcare.com/product/milgard-smart-touch-handle-set-white/ Awesome, thanks!
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Dec 5, 2022 19:02
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it's been ages but I used humane tilt traps baited with peanut butter back when our old apartment had mice. You have to check them daily of course, but we were in a basement unit so they were mostly running around out in the open, getting through one or two walls, so it was easy to see when we'd caught a mouse I released them in golden gate park, figured they'd at least be hawk food or something, and it made me feel better about the whole deal (I am a big softie) anyway it worked, we caught about six mice including some very smol ones and then we didn't have mice any more
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Dec 5, 2022 19:24
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I need to replace the light that's over my kitchen sink, and I'm hoping I can get what I'm looking for but it's not an easy thing to search for. The current light is just a plain, round, glass-cover light attached to a 4" box. BUT, it's slightly off-center. It's above a window and between two cabinets on either-side of the sink, but because of where the ceiling joist/truss is, it's about 2" off center. And I obviously can't move the box 2" to the other side because the joist is in the way. Is there a light I can buy, I guess it would have to be sort of rectangular shaped, where it would come with a mounting bracket to attach to the box, but then allow me to mount the light itself to its own mounting bracket "off-center" so that I can make it ACTUALLY centered in the gap?
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Dec 5, 2022 19:29
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DrBouvenstein posted:I need to replace the light that's over my kitchen sink, and I'm hoping I can get what I'm looking for but it's not an easy thing to search for. You probalby want an LED puck. Some of them are designed for exactly this situation - they are the depth of drywall and have wires coming off the edge.
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Dec 5, 2022 19:35
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DrBouvenstein posted:I need to replace the light that's over my kitchen sink, and I'm hoping I can get what I'm looking for but it's not an easy thing to search for.
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Dec 5, 2022 19:36
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Slugworth posted:Are you opposed to a pendant light? Because you can get a pendant light with extra chain, install it, and then install a hook 2 inches away, and drop it from there. Swag hook should be a good Google term for what I'm describing if I'm not clear. Very opposed. Plus, the "base" would still be off-center and drive me mad. Motronic posted:You probalby want an LED puck. Some of them are designed for exactly this situation - they are the depth of drywall and have wires coming off the edge. If I can find one wide enough that would work. I'd PREFER not to have to also patch a little sliver of drywall on the edge if the puck can't be wide enough. So the LED+trim around it would have to be about 6" around, maybe 7" to be sure? I'll measure the exact amount it's off-center when I get home tonight.
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Dec 5, 2022 19:53
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DrBouvenstein posted:Very opposed. Plus, the "base" would still be off-center and drive me mad. 6" pucks are definitely a thing. And that not counting "trim" width.
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Dec 5, 2022 19:57
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how would i remove this light, either completely, or just remove the bottom part so I can replace the bulb? It might be that the screws going into the wall are behind that bottom diffuser as well.
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Dec 5, 2022 21:48
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actionjackson posted:how would i remove this light, either completely, or just remove the bottom part so I can replace the bulb? It might be that the screws going into the wall are behind that bottom diffuser as well. Usually you take the diffuser off and the electrical guts and mounting bits are behind it.
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Dec 5, 2022 22:42
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Beef Of Ages posted:Usually you take the diffuser off and the electrical guts and mounting bits are behind it. ah i finally figured out how it comes off, thanks!
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Dec 5, 2022 22:53
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H110Hawk posted:Fair enough. You said poison earlier in the post and didn't clarify rat-x later. At a minimum I wanted to reinforce the sentiment that actual poison shouldn't be used. I ended up finding this slightly more gruesome than the snap traps tbh, with one of them I could see that it got a little scorched and stuck to the trap. The plastic snaps that look like teeth work really well. It doesn't look nice but it's not gross, there was never any blood or anything. Leperflesh posted:it's been ages but I used humane tilt traps baited with peanut butter back when our old apartment had mice. You have to check them daily of course, but we were in a basement unit so they were mostly running around out in the open, getting through one or two walls, so it was easy to see when we'd caught a mouse Definitely hawk food, or maybe starvation. Mice don't survive well outside their range. I figured it was more humane to do 'em myself.
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Dec 5, 2022 22:57
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Danhenge posted:I ended up finding this slightly more gruesome than the snap traps tbh, with one of them I could see that it got a little scorched and stuck to the trap. The plastic snaps that look like teeth work really well. It doesn't look nice but it's not gross, there was never any blood or anything. Fair enough, I never wound up with one cooked.
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Dec 5, 2022 22:58
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H110Hawk posted:Fair enough, I never wound up with one cooked. I was also so mad about their poop everywhere that I was mostly grimly relieved.
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Dec 5, 2022 23:00
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I had a real spider problem (and I didn't know, but a mouse problem) in a garage at an old house. I put out some glue spider traps and found one drowned-in-gunk mouse, and one still-alive mouse. I had to put the still-alive mouse in the trash and stove its head in with a stick. I felt really lovely about that but I absolutely wasn't expecting that outcome. When I moved out I found they'd made a nest in one of my boxes, and pissed in my portable AC out tube.
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Dec 6, 2022 18:08
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I have some drinking glasses with chipped rims. Is there some reasonable way to grind them down so they're smooth? I don't mind the divot in the rim, just that it's sharp.
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Dec 7, 2022 03:19
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I have some drinking glasses with chipped rims. Is there some reasonable way to grind them down so they're smooth? I don't mind the divot in the rim, just that it's sharp. Regular aluminum oxide sandpaper will probably work, I know silicon carbide (black/wetordry) paper will sand glass. If you get some really fine grit stuff you may be able to polish it enough that it doesn't look frosted. Flame polishing glass is a thing too, but idk what kind of temps are required or if a normal propane torch can get hot enough. There was a thread a while ago about flame working glass that might have some relevant info. e: glass thread: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3958569
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Dec 7, 2022 03:30
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Thanks! I think I'll take my propane torch to a glass and see how it does; that'd definitely be the easiest option if it works. I know propane torches can melt some glass, because I had to do some rudimentary glasswork for a highschool chemistry class (making stirring rods and very basic pipettes). Failing that, it's not the end of the world if this already-aesthetically-damaged glass gets a little frosty.
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Dec 7, 2022 05:02
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I've had great luck with fine grit wet or dry to take the sharp edge off chipped glass
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Dec 7, 2022 05:16
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Thanks! I think I'll take my propane torch to a glass and see how it does; that'd definitely be the easiest option if it works. I know propane torches can melt some glass, because I had to do some rudimentary glasswork for a highschool chemistry class (making stirring rods and very basic pipettes). Propane can't get hot enough to melt it & it would probably only work with a proper glass torch if it is borosilicate glass. Otherwise, it'll just break. Wet-sanding is your only option
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Dec 7, 2022 17:01
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Is there some way to butt a section of PVC pipe up against another? I'm trying to construct a frame for a tarp, and I already have the side bows situated, so I'd rather avoid having to redo those to use something like T joints.
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Dec 7, 2022 17:36
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hooah posted:Is there some way to butt a section of PVC pipe up against another? I'm trying to construct a frame for a tarp, and I already have the side bows situated, so I'd rather avoid having to redo those to use something like T joints. Use a union? You can always cut some length out to adjust for the length added by the union if your lengths are already right.
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Dec 7, 2022 17:49
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tactlessbastard posted:Use a union? You can always cut some length out to adjust for the length added by the union if your lengths are already right. I think I wasn't terribly clear in my original question. I want one end of the pipe to butt up against the side of the other.
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Dec 7, 2022 19:09
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If this is just for structure and not actual containing liquid, I would try to use carriage bolts. Drilling and then filling a whole to be square seems reasonable.
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Dec 7, 2022 19:52
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I have 2 strings of christmas lights that don't work. I investigated both of them: one (1) had a missing light and the other one (2) didn't. I pushed all the lights in to make sure they connect properly. I have another string (3) that half works. it's the end half that works, not the part near the plug. there's one light (halfway through the first part, with not-lit lights on either side of it) that is missing. 1: I took the string that looked complete, and replaced the fuses in the plug. it still doesn't work. 2: I took the string with the missing light that entirely didn't work, and put a new light in. it also still doesn't work, lol. 3: I'll try replacing the light in this one but I don't have high hopes! Should I just throw them away? I don't know what the gently caress I'm doing. I have more replacement fuses and lights that I saved.
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Dec 7, 2022 19:59
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redreader posted:I have 2 strings of christmas lights that don't work. I investigated both of them: one (1) had a missing light and the other one (2) didn't. I pushed all the lights in to make sure they connect properly. I have another string (3) that half works. it's the end half that works, not the part near the plug. there's one light (halfway through the first part, with not-lit lights on either side of it) that is missing. Unless they are sentimental for... some reason... I'd say yeah just throw away and replace and then spend your energy elsewhere.
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Dec 7, 2022 20:06
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I further investigated the half working string (3) and replaced the missing light and also noticed a crushed light. I replaced that too and the entire string works! I feel like a handyman! edit: I investigated the two replaced-fuses but still not working strings again, they both look A ok, I chucked them in the trash. redreader fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Dec 7, 2022 |
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Dec 7, 2022 20:10
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Calidus posted:If this is just for structure and not actual containing liquid, I would try to use carriage bolts. Drilling and then filling a whole to be square seems reasonable. I may be misunderstanding, but how would I secure either end of the carriage bolt into the pipe that's the long end of the T?
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Dec 7, 2022 20:15
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hooah posted:I may be misunderstanding, but how would I secure either end of the carriage bolt into the pipe that's the long end of the T? Cap the end is what I was originally thinking. Possibly find a nut that has snug fit on the interior depending on the diameter of the pipe.
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Dec 7, 2022 20:28
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Calidus posted:Cap the end is what I was originally thinking. Possibly find a nut that has snug fit on the interior depending on the diameter of the pipe. Hmm. How would the cap stay put? The pipe isn't threaded.
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Dec 7, 2022 20:34
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Why is just cutting the pipe and putting in a T-fitting out of the question? It's literally that simple. You *might* have to shorten one side 1/4" or so.
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Dec 7, 2022 20:51
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