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The problem with that attachment method is the amount of leverage you're putting on the screw. The directions of the forces involved is all wrong. There's specific brackets you're supposed to use for handrails, which do a better job both of supporting weight and of resisting lateral forces. Now, it's entirely possible that some of those brackets are being used, in addition to the toenailed screw, but from what OP said (specifically that it wobbles), I kind of doubt it.
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Dec 20, 2022 23:53
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:The problem with that attachment method is the amount of leverage you're putting on the screw. The directions of the forces involved is all wrong. quote:Now, it's entirely possible that some of those brackets are being used, in addition to the toenailed screw, but from what OP said (specifically that it wobbles), I kind of doubt it. Nope. All that's holding that end of the railing is that one screw you see. What kind of brackets should I be attaching?
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Dec 21, 2022 00:45
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Motronic posted:Depends on the materials I find. It's a feel thing, but to get the feel I'd suggest snugging just a little bit, turn the water back on and then snug until it stops dripping, then go a touch more. Remember that feel for next time. That worked! I had to go back and snug a couple of the 4 I did previously. I also switched one from a copper ferrule to plastic. The biggest mistake I think I was making was not aligning the insert and tubing perfectly parallel to the fitting. Because the tee and all of the tubing were kind of complicated, they were torquing and twisting when I tried to hook everything up. Hand tightening the nut supposedly should pull everything flush and straight but there was enough slop that I think my ferrules were getting cocked and pinched. Holding the tubing straight while torquing definitely helped a lot. Edit: lmao it just fired off randomly 20 minutes later and started spraying water like crazy gently caress me space uncle fucked around with this message at 01:41 on Dec 21, 2022 |
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Dec 21, 2022 01:29
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Arsenic Lupin posted:That's exactly what I worried about. Leaning on the railing means you're putting force in a screw's weakest direction, from side to side. Something like (grabbed at random) this thing. They're meant to be screwed into studs periodically along the length of the rail. I forget the recommended spacing but it's probably something like every 3-4 feet. The end of the rail may be unsupported, and that's fine so long as there's a bracket close enough. For what it's worth, my own stair handrail has 4 brackets for a straight set of 14 steps up to the second floor, and I've never felt like it was wobbly or inadequately-supported.
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Dec 21, 2022 01:43
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space uncle posted:Edit: lmao it just fired off randomly 20 minutes later and started spraying water like crazy gently caress me Are you getting the tubing cut exactly square? Because it doesn't sound like it. It's really important the it's super flat and square, regardless of the material.
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Dec 21, 2022 02:09
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I wasn't clear. This isn't the banister, this is the stair railing in the upstairs hall, the one that keeps you from falling over the edge of the stairs from the hall. The purple square marks where the railing is toenailed into the wall. What you're looking at was originally a wall; the stair followed the wall up to the top. Behind the wall was a bedroom. The previous owner scooted the wall back, created a hall, put a half-bath in the extra space, and put up the railing you see now.
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Dec 21, 2022 03:13
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Ahhhh. I understand now. I'm not 100% clear on the correct connection there, but if I had to guess, mortise and tenon is the correct connection. Or dowels and drilled holes. But you need some substantial vertical member that you can tie the railing into; I'm not convinced that the piece of trim currently being used qualifies. This might require a semi-substantial rebuild 
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Dec 21, 2022 03:42
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It's also toenailed into the newel post! 
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Dec 21, 2022 04:21
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oh god dammit you're right I bet the newel post isn't properly tied into the subfloor either
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Dec 21, 2022 04:24
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I very much fear that. It wobbles, too.
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Dec 21, 2022 04:40
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It’s all decorative. Do not lean on.
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Dec 21, 2022 04:43
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That's suboptimal for something i might trip, fall on, and rely on to keep from falling down the stairs. I am old. I have bad balance.
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Dec 21, 2022 05:00
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Yeah, that's not a safety railing. It's a false sense of security.
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Dec 21, 2022 05:01
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Unsafety railing.
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Dec 21, 2022 05:21
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Well, dammit. I know a local carpenter who does good work; he's installed shelves and required a cabinet for us. Would that be the right kind of either to redo this?
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Dec 21, 2022 05:27
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So yeah, I'm not qualified to tell you how to do this properly, but I can tell you that both ends of the railing (as well as the middle, if it's long enough) are supposed to be secured to the frame of the house via those newel posts (or maybe by attaching to wall studs). The posts should be rock-solid and then the railing itself should have a nice solid connection to them. You have, uh, none of that. What is there will have to be removed, and then very likely some of the floor will need to be removed as well, so that the framing can be accessed and the posts installed properly.
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Dec 21, 2022 05:29
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Thanks, everybody. We really need a previous owner smiley.
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Dec 21, 2022 05:31
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Just install an airbag on the railing so if you do go over with it, you're protected
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Dec 21, 2022 05:35
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I shall wear an airbag and become the Michelin woman.
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Dec 21, 2022 06:02
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Motronic posted:Are you getting the tubing cut exactly square? Because it doesn't sound like it. It's really important the it's super flat and square, regardless of the material. That might be the problem, I’m doing it by hand with an exacto knife and eyeballing it to appear Square. Might need to buy the tool that holds tubing and cuts it square. Still got a few errant drops, will check it in the morning after tightening it up a bit more.
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Dec 21, 2022 06:10
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Arsenic Lupin posted:Well, dammit. I know a local carpenter who does good work; he's installed shelves and required a cabinet for us. Would that be the right kind of either to redo this? A carpenter would be fine and a good call / might know someone. But these days there are stair specialized contractors. If your carp doesn’t work out I would go to a stair parts distributor site like Coffman stair parts or LJ Smith, find a dealer in your area, and ask them for a contact. It’s a tiny job so good luck.
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Dec 21, 2022 13:15
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I need a basic lock for my front door. My current one sucks (and is labeled as such - Kwikset) and the latch is sticking. I've taken it apart and lubed it up with dry graphite which solved it for a few weeks but it's back to sticking. The handle turns and sort of binds up on retracting it enough to get it clear of the jamb. It's hard to tell if it's "sticking" or slop in the manufacturing but I don't know that I care to continue. It has a round handle inside and out, with a deadbolt that has a thumb turn inside. Something like this but without the smartkey dumbness: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Kwikset...0-034/100597328 My hope is to transplant or re-key the cylinder (KW1) into the new lock. Outside of walking into a local locksmith and asking for their finest thing - what brand/make/model's are suggested? I just want to not have to deal with this anymore and am hoping for smooth action and drop in replacement. Yale and Baldwin are the brands I can remember off the top of my head, but they tended to be with Schlage master systems keyed into them. Interesting - I just learned control-enter  's
H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 17:24 on Dec 21, 2022 |
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Dec 21, 2022 17:21
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H110Hawk posted:I need a basic lock for my front door. My current one sucks (and is labeled as such - Kwikset) and the latch is sticking. I've taken it apart and lubed it up with dry graphite which solved it for a few weeks but it's back to sticking. The handle turns and sort of binds up on retracting it enough to get it clear of the jamb. It's hard to tell if it's "sticking" or slop in the manufacturing but I don't know that I care to continue. I'm not sure about re-using the cylinder, maybe someone else knows who sells locks that are compatible with KW1. My recommendation is Emtek - pretty good looking, solid construction, not that expensive in the grand scheme of things. Catalogs here: https://www.emtek.com/for-dealers/price-books/ They use Schlage C as a default, but can substitute Weiser WR5. They have a pretty extensive dealer network, so you can buy from a local locksmith and then they can solve any issues that might exist with the jamb when they install. Ask if you can get a '28 degree latch'. Requires less rotation to move the latch, sub-$10 upgrade. A nice upgrade that works with a standard lever/deadbolt double bore door is to purchase a 'sideplate' style (page 100 of the door hardware book) which includes a decorative plate that connects the lever and deadbolt visually.
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Dec 21, 2022 17:44
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I spent this weekend cleaning up the garage so we could fit two cars in it again, now that my work vehicle is iced over every morning. However, right after pulling that car into my garage, the opener stopped working. I have a screw drive garage door opener and it just buzzes. Is something like this worth fixing? Based on past work on the house, I assume it was installed between 2004 and 2008. If it's not worth fixing, what are the main differences between the newer chain drive and jackshaft openers? There happened to be a garage door guy at a job I visited today and he gave me his company's price to install both. Jackshaft is about $300 more, but it sounds like they're quieter. Does one or the other have a longer expected life?
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Dec 21, 2022 20:28
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Xenix posted:I spent this weekend cleaning up the garage so we could fit two cars in it again, now that my work vehicle is iced over every morning. However, right after pulling that car into my garage, the opener stopped working. I have a screw drive garage door opener and it just buzzes. Could try replacing the solenoid, my old chain drive one was doing the same buzzing when trying to run it, I replaced the one on mine for $8 from Amazon (just run the number off of it) I don't know much about garage door openers but when I installed one of the newer HD belt drive specials, I was pretty surprised at how fast and quiet it was.
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Dec 22, 2022 05:54
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Xenix posted:I spent this weekend cleaning up the garage so we could fit two cars in it again, now that my work vehicle is iced over every morning. However, right after pulling that car into my garage, the opener stopped working. I have a screw drive garage door opener and it just buzzes. I installed this belt drive model with a second pair of hands helping me. It's very quiet IMO, looking at this jackshaft stuff on google it's wall-mounted instead of ceiling-mounted, to me that's probably the biggest difference. One or the other being better would depend on your garage layout and future desires. Maybe if you have a bedroom above the garage you'd want the jackshaft (assuming that it's quieter than a new belt drive)?
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Dec 22, 2022 06:06
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tangy yet delightful posted:I installed this belt drive model with a second pair of hands helping me. It's very quiet IMO, looking at this jackshaft stuff on google it's wall-mounted instead of ceiling-mounted, to me that's probably the biggest difference. One or the other being better would depend on your garage layout and future desires. Maybe if you have a bedroom above the garage you'd want the jackshaft (assuming that it's quieter than a new belt drive)? belt drives are an upgrade to chain drives for sure.
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Dec 22, 2022 13:38
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I have a question about installing an oven cabinet and a cooktop. At the moment, I have a gas range, we're looking at replacing it with an oven cabinet/electric wall oven/ gasscooktop like this: I'm curious about how it works for the utilities and all that to fit. Currently, there's a gas line from the floor, 18 from the wall, and 2 in from the backwall, 6.5" tall to a right angle, with a 15" cabinet on the left and a cabinet on the right. There's no 220 there, but that's not a problem I can put that wherever. I'm also getting a new countertop so I can pull out the cabinets as needed.  The cabinet will fit fine in the space, but I'm not sure how the gas line fits in. The cooktop is gas, and the range we want is electric. Do I have to have the gas line moved to one of the cabinets? I have a line to get a good deal on this Ikea oven, so likely this will be the one I settle on: https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/konsistens-wall-oven-with-self-cleaning-stainless-steel-20462033/  But it looks like that's too deep and it will hit the gas, line right? Looking at the instructions it seems they want you to have the gas line for the cooktop in an adjacent cabinet instead of under or behind the stove, as well as the outlet (which is also currently behind the stove as well. So that means that inside the cabinet on the side you have access to the gas and electrical connection, right?  The other option is I found a smaller oven (my wife would like a 24" really) that has plenty of clearances for drawer under the oven, and I can just shorten the drawer to get to the shut off and there's plenty of space beside it for the flex pipe, and I can secure it to the side so it's not sitting against the oven. Super-NintendoUser fucked around with this message at 20:49 on Dec 22, 2022 |
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Dec 22, 2022 19:26
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Is there a thread for smart home stuff? Here or maybe in another subforum, I've just started to look at some basic stuff about smart lighting and heating controls for a holiday house we're renovating/extending but it's hard to find a guide that isn't trying to sell you on a particular product.
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Dec 23, 2022 01:54
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Home automation thread
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Dec 23, 2022 02:19
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Thanks
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Dec 23, 2022 02:26
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I need help fixing the caulking around my tub. A remodel is long overdue but not in the cards at this point. The existing linoleum is shot and when I moved in 6 months ago there were some visible cracks in the caulk between the tub and the floor. I scraped it all off, wiped with mineral spirits and allowed it to try before putting a new bead on. It works great until about a month ago and now some cracks have appeared again. Not sure if it was a lovely job by me, poor prep, not a wide enough bead, or maybe the cold weather, but I’m looking for a fix to last another year or two before I can Reno the whole bathroom. This is the bathroom my kids use and we give them baths in, so my wife and I are constantly kneeling near the tub so maybe the pressure we’re putting on the floor at that angle isn’t helping either? Here’s the pictures. If you zoom in you can see the cracks I’m talking about :   Any advice? nwin fucked around with this message at 03:44 on Dec 23, 2022 |
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Dec 23, 2022 03:41
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Looks like not great surface prep, potentially not great application. Scarpe every last bit of that off that you can with a razor. TAPE both sides of the joint. Leav e that middle 1/4-1/2" open where the caulk is gonna go. Use good quality silicone caulk meant for bathrooms (although I am happy with some vinyl caulks and I prefer working with that type). Have a bowl filled with an appropriate solvent for the tpe of caulk you are using as well as some rags/sponges in there. For silicone it will be mineral spirits, for vinyl hot water will suffice. Apply the caulk sparingly but not too sparingly. Go back over it with your finger wet in the solvent. Remove excess caulk rom your finger on the rags/sponges as required. You are both smoothing and pushing this caulk into the corner to make sure it adheres during this part. When you are done let it sit until it's skinned over buy not fully cured. This is when you remove the tape. Now let it sit 24 hours before using the shower. Screwed that up? That's totally okay! Get out your razor, remove it and try again. You're not gonna hurt anything. And it's a skill that needs to be learned. You'll figure it out. People who are actually good at this (not me) don't need the tape. They're just that good.
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Dec 23, 2022 03:53
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You have old vinyl sheet goods that are drying out and curling (it is the only thing that makes vinyl curl). The curl means that right there at the tub, it'll remain flexible - it'll move, and thus be impossible to caulk over in any reasonable way. You could unload an entire tube of caulk and it won't hold. You need to replace the vinyl sheet. Eventually. In the interim, I would suggest cutting the vinyl back to a point where it lays flat, buying a flat piece of Azek wide enough that you can abut the tub and also cover the vinyl, overlapping it by at least a half-inch; slam it tight in place, and screw it down into the floor with stainless-steel deck screws (or similar water-resistant fasteners). THEN you can caulk the seams with a nice narrow bead of caulk to seal it. You can also lay a fat bead along the floor at the tub for added waterproofing, before slamming in the Azek. That will be cheap, it'll work, and it'll buy you a couple years. Uglier than a hatful of assholes, but still better than the kind of subfloor rot that requires pulling the tub to address. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 03:56 on Dec 23, 2022 |
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Dec 23, 2022 03:53
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PainterofCrap posted:You have old vinyl sheet goods that are drying out and curling I did NOT zoom in far enough to see this. Hard agree.
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Dec 23, 2022 03:57
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Fix It Fast: Uglier than a hatful of assholes
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Dec 23, 2022 05:36
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Beef Of Ages posted:Fix It Fast: Uglier than a hatful of assholes
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Dec 23, 2022 05:45
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I would like to better insulate my garage. New weather stripping is pretty straightforward but I kind clueless on insulating my wood garage door. The big choice seems to foam board vs rolled vs fiberglass. Rolled products seem like an easiest to install.
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Dec 23, 2022 20:43
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Tezer posted:I'm not sure about re-using the cylinder, maybe someone else knows who sells locks that are compatible with KW1. My recommendation is Emtek - pretty good looking, solid construction, not that expensive in the grand scheme of things. Catalogs here: Thank you for this by the way. I walked into my local locksmith and they smugly told me they only stock the lovely kwikset I have (literally pulling my exact doorknob out from under the counter) for KW1. They have emtek and medeco as well and all but said out loud that I was a dumbo for even entertaining putting a KW1 keyway into an emtek lock. They suggested I go buy a baldwin from homedepot, since Kwikset owns them now (  ) I should be able to get it with their keyway in it. Yale, Schlage, etc are only going to have their keyways available.He also said they use 3-in-1 lube now not dry graphite. Maybe I'll try that as well, not like I have much to lose here. It was overall pretty annoying, my key was embossed with their logo when I walked in the door and to get laughed at - eat me. I won't be back. I know I'm not a commercial place needing a patented keyway master system on 1000 doors, but maybe it's a small community too.
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Dec 23, 2022 21:14
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Beef Of Ages posted:Fix It Fast: Uglier than a hatful of assholes
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Dec 23, 2022 21:27
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