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trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

Arsenic Lupin posted:

I don't know where you live; this is unlikely, but just in case. If any of your aunt's plants are citruses, don't bring them to (or from) Florida or California; there are a couple of bad citrus-tree epidemics that both states are trying to stomp out.

yes, bring them to my house instead

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Hirayuki
Mar 28, 2010


The plants are in SW Oregon while I'm in SE Michigan. Thankfully I won't have any problems with hardiness, since these are houseplants. I'm not sure if I can get a good handle on the inventory before I head out there; the most recent info I have on them is a friend who had gone over to take care of "all her pretty plants." In my memory there was a bay window dripping with the things. None were particularly exotic or "specimens," which is why I think I might end up just taking my one favorite as a memento. I guess I'll have to see, and keep a minivan or U-Haul in mind. Thanks for the advice.

Lakitu7
Jul 10, 2001

Watch for spinys
The back of a uhaul trailer/truck isn't heated, though. Some of those plants probably can't get colder than 50F before they'll suffer damage, and that's not a short amount of time. A van would take care of that problem better than a trailer.

Hirayuki
Mar 28, 2010


Very true! Thanks for pointing that out.

Soul Dentist
Mar 17, 2009
Help! My Christmas tree (decorated, in the house for two weeks) has a cinara aphid infestation. Is there something I can do that won't ruin the ornaments or (secondarily) the tree? I have neem oil, soap, sprayers, etc...

Soul Dentist
Mar 17, 2009
Well I shook out like two hundred or so, vacuumed up and sprayed as much as I could with just Dawn and water. Update in the morning!

P.S. these fuckers look like halfway between a bedbug and a tick at first glance and there were so many:

Neeksy
Mar 29, 2007

Hej min vän, hur står det till?

Ghost Cactus posted:

I’ll take any recommendations to shop bulbs for zone 5b. Places I’ve checked online are just shipping in spring.

You're going to find that there is a cutoff for when you're able to order certain types of bulbs online, due to the whole seasonal aspect of bulbs' existences. Your spring-flowering stuff is prettymuch all done by now. The next season isn't going to really open until january or so, with spring shipping for summer or fall-flowering bulbs.

Since you're in a colder area, your spring shipping will happen later than those in warmer zones, whereas you will receive fall-planted stuff far earlier instead.

Soul Dentist
Mar 17, 2009
Christmas tree update: removed ornaments and left to sit in the cold:




E:

Some festive yucca elephantipes instead

Soul Dentist fucked around with this message at 15:17 on Dec 23, 2022

w4ddl3d33
Sep 30, 2022

BIKE HARDER, YOUNG BLOOD

Soul Dentist posted:

Christmas tree update: removed ornaments and left to sit in the cold:




E:
Some festive yucca elephantipes instead

every time the holidays come around i campaign desperately for turkey figs to become the festive tree

Ghost Cactus
Dec 25, 2006

Neeksy posted:

You're going to find that there is a cutoff for when you're able to order certain types of bulbs online, due to the whole seasonal aspect of bulbs' existences. Your spring-flowering stuff is prettymuch all done by now. The next season isn't going to really open until january or so, with spring shipping for summer or fall-flowering bulbs.

Since you're in a colder area, your spring shipping will happen later than those in warmer zones, whereas you will receive fall-planted stuff far earlier instead.

Thank you! That makes sense. I hadn’t thought about the shipping time differences.

bagmonkey
May 13, 2003




Grimey Drawer


I'm obsessed with ZZ plants but I think Zenzi is my favorite. This little dude has been sprouting those new stems for like 6 months!!

edit - just realized he's probably overdue for a bath too. I'll put that on this week's list!

Rick
Feb 23, 2004
When I was 17, my father was so stupid, I didn't want to be seen with him in public. When I was 24, I was amazed at how much the old man had learned in just 7 years.
I purchased a Dwarf Alberta Fir from Etsy of all places. It's going pretty well. They sent a nice care instruction document with it that has been helpful. It says in it that it likes cold air, and even reading online I don't see anything that specifically says to protect it from freezing. So is it okay to leave out? I mean it's Arizona and we haven't hit freezing yet in either first winter or second winter anyway but I've been pulling it in at night just in case it hits freezing. But maybe I don't have to worry about it?

Neeksy
Mar 29, 2007

Hej min vän, hur står det till?

Rick posted:

I purchased a Dwarf Alberta Fir from Etsy of all places. It's going pretty well. They sent a nice care instruction document with it that has been helpful. It says in it that it likes cold air, and even reading online I don't see anything that specifically says to protect it from freezing. So is it okay to leave out? I mean it's Arizona and we haven't hit freezing yet in either first winter or second winter anyway but I've been pulling it in at night just in case it hits freezing. But maybe I don't have to worry about it?

You familiar with USDA zones? Those are a lot of help in determining these kinds of things.

Jhet
Jun 3, 2013

Rick posted:

I purchased a Dwarf Alberta Fir from Etsy of all places. It's going pretty well. They sent a nice care instruction document with it that has been helpful. It says in it that it likes cold air, and even reading online I don't see anything that specifically says to protect it from freezing. So is it okay to leave out? I mean it's Arizona and we haven't hit freezing yet in either first winter or second winter anyway but I've been pulling it in at night just in case it hits freezing. But maybe I don't have to worry about it?

Perfectly fine to leave out all winter. You're going to probably run into problems in the summer. It won't like the heat and not having water and you'll have to probably protect it from the Arizona heat. I'm guessing it's the Alberta Spruce with the tight habit that gets used for landscaping?

Hirayuki
Mar 28, 2010


Yep, they're a popular landscape plant here in cold zone-6 Michigan. Ours were here when we moved in 21 years ago and are still happy as a clam.

Rick
Feb 23, 2004
When I was 17, my father was so stupid, I didn't want to be seen with him in public. When I was 24, I was amazed at how much the old man had learned in just 7 years.

Neeksy posted:

You familiar with USDA zones? Those are a lot of help in determining these kinds of things.

I'm not totally but it does say 3 to 6.

Jhet posted:

Perfectly fine to leave out all winter. You're going to probably run into problems in the summer. It won't like the heat and not having water and you'll have to probably protect it from the Arizona heat. I'm guessing it's the Alberta Spruce with the tight habit that gets used for landscaping?

That is correct. I do worry about the summer but it seems to suggest as long as I get it enough light it's okay to be an indoor, air conditioned tree. I just figure I might as well get it some weather it likes while I can.

Hirayuki
Mar 28, 2010


I was gently tugging at some brown leaves on my very old peace lily (from my grandfather's funeral in 1998) and thinking it might be time to start dividing the plant or otherwise looking for a way to revitalize it; one cluster in particular seems a little unhappier than the others. Then a cluster just popped right out into my hand. No roots, just the brown bit from which the leaves grow, plus a handful of beautiful green leaves.

Can I throw this brown part into a new pot of soil, or suspend it over water and rocks to hopefully tease out new roots? I have rooting compound gel, if that will work at all in this case. I had hoped to do research before this happened and properly chunk off a piece with roots, but...

eta:

Hirayuki fucked around with this message at 15:35 on Feb 8, 2023

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

my plant i mentioned last year did well over the winter (basically nothing on it died), and even grew a middle finger

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Lakitu7
Jul 10, 2001

Watch for spinys

Hirayuki posted:

Can I throw this brown part into a new pot of soil, or suspend it over water and rocks to hopefully tease out new roots? I have rooting compound gel, if that will work at all in this case. I had hoped to do research before this happened and properly chunk off a piece with roots, but...

It looks like a sucker + a small chunk of rhizome. The question will be if you got enough rhizome. I'm not sure why you'd suspend it over water/rocks; I'd just put it in dirt. Rooting powder/gel probably won't hurt even if it doesn't help.


actionjackson posted:

my plant i mentioned last year did well over the winter (basically nothing on it died), and even grew a middle finger

Congrats on surviving most of your first winter. That new "finger" is going to fan out into a new leaf. You'll get more of those as it gets toward a nice ~6ft tall all over. Just keep watching for any signs of spider mites (any little webs or spotty damage on green leaves). Mine tend to come back every few months and I hit it with pyrethrin or spinosad sprays and it's good again for a while. If it gets happy enough it might develop a little flower structure near the bottom and give you seeds.

you ate my cat
Jul 1, 2007

I just got rid of a few plants while dealing with a thrip infestation. Are there any concerns about reusing the pots if I hose them down pretty well? I assume not, considering their lifecycle, but what I'm finding online seems a little wishy washy.

Lakitu7
Jul 10, 2001

Watch for spinys
There are a lot of loud people on Reddit and such who act like if you see a single thrip or spider mite you should throw away everything in a 6 foot radius, but it's not that big of a deal. After you washed out the pots and let them dry, it's probably just fine. If you want to be extra careful, I'd spray them down with Captain Jack's Dead Bug Brew (Spinosad), before you re-plant. They sell big bottles of concentrate for you to dilute, and then it lasts many many years. Then you'll have it around next time thrips or mites pop up.

While we're on pest control, my war on fungus gnats has ended at near-full eradication thanks to Microbe Lift Mosquito Control liquid. It's the same stuff as Mosquito Bits/Dunks but much more concentrated and in liquid form (with a little brown sludge too), so you don't have to don't have to waste time "steeping" the bits and composting them, and it's much stronger stuff. It's $20 for a tiny bottle but you're using ~5 drops/gallon.

Lakitu7 fucked around with this message at 16:57 on Feb 11, 2023

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Plantfriends we need a new thread title any suggestions?!

Tremors
Aug 16, 2006

What happened to the legendary Chris Redfield, huh? What happened to you?!
Let's give the thread a mantra. Horticulture: Save the plants you can, toss the rest.

Solkanar512
Dec 28, 2006

by the sex ghost

I. M. Gei posted:

Question about Japanese maples. I know that there's a variety called Bloodgood that takes full sun instead of partial shade, but are there others besides that one that also take full sun? And do they all need partial shade during their first year after planting like the Bloodgood does?

I know this is a bit of a late response but maples should be coming into the nurseries in the next month or so, so you should have plenty of time to shop.

I collect japanese maples and have around a dozen or so planted in my yard. I focused on sun tolerant cultivars that reach heights of 15-25' or more to start with. Understand that I'm growing in the PNW in Zone 8b, but slightly inland, so my extreme temps are around 5 degrees more extreme than the surrounding area with tons of rainfall.

So there are tons of varieties that handle full sun, and you can goose this a little by making sure you mulch like crazy, deep water regularly in the first year (and when it gets loving hot) and fertilizing in the early spring and early summer with a slow release, granular fertilizer.

Specific varieties I personally have and do fine -

Sango Kaku (Coral Bark)
Seiryu
Fireglow
Maiku Jaku (Dancing Peacock)
Shishigashira (Lion's Head)
Tobiosho
Iijima Sunago
Pacific Fire
Sunny Sister
Radiant (Says to plant in shade, has done well in the sun)
Katsura (Becomes a pretty pretty princess in the heat)

Thinking about putting a Bihou in the sun as well, but I need to do more research first. The Pacific Fire and Sunny Sister aren't traditional japanese maples as they are cultivars of A. circinatum, but the definition of japanese maple is ever expanding.

What size are you looking for in a final tree?

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


Hi everyone

I'm doing a journal/post/discussion/yell at goon thread about my home-scale maple syrup project this year here's a link
https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=4023893

Fitzy Fitz
May 14, 2005




I have it on good authority that blight-resistant American chestnuts may be approved for sale in the US very soon. Let's loving go

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

Fitzy Fitz posted:

I have it on good authority that blight-resistant American chestnuts may be approved for sale in the US very soon. Let's loving go

Oh poo poo. Will I be able to procure one and plant it in my yard? I will have a spot opening up soon after I cut down a much lesser tree (Bradford pear).

Beardcrumb
Sep 24, 2018

An absolute gronk with a face like a chewed mango.

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Plantfriends we need a new thread title any suggestions?!

Horticulture: When the thrips try to get at you, pot it like it's hot

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Plantfriends we need a new thread title any suggestions?!

Horticulture: Getting dirty down on your knees.

Soul Dentist
Mar 17, 2009
Horticulture: Soiling Yourself Inside and Out

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

kreeningsons posted:

Oh poo poo. Will I be able to procure one and plant it in my yard? I will have a spot opening up soon after I cut down a much lesser tree (Bradford pear).

Answered my own question, assuming the American chestnut foundation is the only source

https://support.acf.org/membership/new-seed-level posted:

New Seed Level Membership
Orders must be in by January 31, 2024 for March 2024 delivery.



A limited quantity of seeds from select parent trees with elevated blight resistance are available as part of our Seed Level Membership. Harvested in the fall by staff and volunteers at Meadowview Research Farms, these intermediate blight-resistant seeds, considered our very best, represent nearly 40 years of research and development. Quantities are indicated below:



Root Seed Level is (4 Seeds) - $300.00
Branch Seed Level (6 Seeds) - $500.00
Canopy Seed Level (12 Seeds) - $1,000.00



We are grateful to all our members for being part of this important and hopeful mission, ensuring future generations will one day experience forests filled with healthy American chestnut trees. Thank you for joining us on this journey!

Fitzy Fitz
May 14, 2005




kreeningsons posted:

Answered my own question, assuming the American chestnut foundation is the only source

Those are pricey!

I actually don't know how many sources there will be or how much they'll cost. What I had heard is that the researchers have finally reached a point where they're seeking USDA approval for sales. Meadowview is the main research site I was aware of though.

Nosre
Apr 16, 2002


Fitzy Fitz posted:

I have it on good authority that blight-resistant American chestnuts may be approved for sale in the US very soon. Let's loving go

Very interested about this as well, I've been loving the idea of trying to introduce them (back, I assume) on my parent's farm in New Hampshire.

I know there's an active community in the area that puts out some interesting stuff, I'd look to get involved but I don't live nearby at the moment:
https://acf.org/vt-nh-news/august-2022-message-from-the-president/

treat
Jul 24, 2008

by the sex ghost
What's the skinny on reusing liquid fertilizer for no/low soil plants like orchids, tillandsia, etc.? I should know this, I'm a professional plant toucher with a minor in chemistry but I'm also extremely dumb and also very lazy. I like to keep my fertilizer solutes in a mason jar in a cool/dark place after soaking or cycling through my plants in order to make feeding quick and easy the next couple times, but I imagine there could be some degradation or salt precipitate would form at some point at the bottom of the jar, though I've never actually seen this and I shake the hell out of it anyway. Anything to be concerned about there?

Second question, I've always gotten mixed signals on when it's appropriate to use DI water. I exclusively water my moss/lichen/biocrust jars with DI but ime I find I need to fertilize house plants a lot more often due to nutrient leaching (probably?). As far as I'm concerned, DI water can't hurt as long as you're attentive to nutrient availability but I've also read some poo poo like "DI water actually pulls water out of the roots/tissue"* though I'm not sure if comments like that were in relation to higher solute concentration in soil vs roots or if they were just based on a misunderstanding of osmotic potential? I already said I'm dumb, just humor me. Am I missing something here?

*I've seen this a lot wrt tillandsia specifically, which makes no sense as far as soil solutes goes. Maybe they just absorb too much water when using DI , increasing rot risk?

treat fucked around with this message at 00:00 on Feb 13, 2023

DeadlyMuffin
Jul 3, 2007

People treat DI like it's poison, it's the weirdest thing.

treat posted:

I've also read some poo poo like "DI water actually pulls water out of the roots/tissue"* though I'm not sure if comments like that were in relation to higher solute concentration in soil vs roots or if they were just based on a misunderstanding of osmotic potential? I already said I'm dumb, just humor me. Am I missing something here?

*I've seen this a lot wrt tillandsia specifically, which makes no sense as far as soil solutes goes. Maybe they just absorb too much water when using DI , increasing rot risk?

Where did you read this?

treat
Jul 24, 2008

by the sex ghost

DeadlyMuffin posted:

People treat DI like it's poison, it's the weirdest thing.

Where did you read this?

trash blogs, forums, people I know who range from super competent to "all my plants are dead, again". I could maybe chalk up the tillandsia thing to people having bad experiences with them, under/over watering mesic/xeric plants and not knowing exactly why they're doing poorly and attributing it to something they saw online.

Also I'm an idiot and didn't even think about the fact that I was at a plant science/rangeland restoration conference all week, so I asked a few plant physiologists and they were all confident in having zero concern with using DI/distilled/reverse osmosis water on houseplants--especially regarding tillandsia.

There may be potential for inadequate watering in soil with very high ionic components but concentrations that high are going to kill the plant on it's own. DI isn't going to pull moisture from roots necessarily, though it could lead to less water uptake than expected over long time periods, and repeated use of pure water can lead to soil nutrient deficiency, but the volume and regularity would still need to be close to the scale of intensive flushing with regular rear end tap water which has similarly detrimental impact on soil nutrients.

So basically no, there's no issue whatsoever with pure water, but also "who gives a poo poo just use tap water. These are house plants not lab conditions, you silly nerd."

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

What's the thinking around using coffee grounds in planters etc? I make espresso at home a few times a day and just throw out my pucks...

Lakitu7
Jul 10, 2001

Watch for spinys

VelociBacon posted:

What's the thinking around using coffee grounds in planters etc? I make espresso at home a few times a day and just throw out my pucks...

They're fine in small quantities but if you do it too much your soil will be very acidic, which is great if you have hydrangeas and want them to turn blue, but most plants would prefer something more neutral. I put them in compost, so they're making it to the soil eventually, but after they've had time to mix in and mellow out a bit.

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


I've had compost that was little more than coffee grounds and wood chips go full hot.

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DeadlyMuffin
Jul 3, 2007

CommonShore posted:

I've had compost that was little more than coffee grounds and wood chips go full hot.

Full hot?

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