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Can someone point me in the direction of a good primer on the basics of painting (preferably using Tamiya acrylic paints as they’re the ones I have the best access to) scale models? I recently got into the hobby and purchased a Tamiya M4A3 Sherman kit and am getting a bit overwhelmed with how to go about learning to paint it.
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Dec 26, 2022 12:24
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Tamiya primer is pretty good  But the basic sequence is like this: 1) Primer. This is an important layer to give the paint something to adhere to, but also this is a pretty opaque paint that will cover up any difference in colour on the kit body. It's best to buy it in a spray can. Apply in small bursts, sweeping across the model to avoid pooling up paint anywhere. 2) Base coat. You can also apply this with a spray can, especially since your Sherman is going to be olive drab, but you can always do it with a brush too. The key is to apply several thin coats to hide the brush strokes. Get Tamiya thinner for Tamiya paints, you can thin them with alcohol but not very well. 3) Details. This is stuff like the pioneer tools, the machine guns, etc. If you put on the tracks already, also paint them now, although with Tamiya rubber tracks I prefer to leave the drive sprocket unglued and slip them on at the last step. 4) Gloss varnish. This is mandatory if you apply decals, since otherwise small bubbles trapped against the surface will make the transparent parts cloudy. You can technically also polish the parts of the tank you're applying decals to, but a rattle can of varnish is much easier. Same as before, apply in bursts, sweeping across the model. 5) Apply decals if desired. 6) Matte varnish. Same as the gloss, get a can of it and sweep across the model in short bursts. This one is the most important to do it in bursts, since getting too much varnish on in one place can make the model look glossy again. And that's the gist of it. Once you get these steps down, you can do cool stuff like washes, colour modulation, weathering, etc to really make your models pop. If you have access to a good catalogue of Tamiya models, their early stuff is great to learn on. The T-34, Panzer II, Walker Bulldog, Sd.Kfz.251 are very simple kits and come with a few figures as well.
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Dec 26, 2022 13:32
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neurotech posted:Can someone point me in the direction of a good primer on the basics of painting (preferably using Tamiya acrylic paints as they’re the ones I have the best access to) scale models? I recently got into the hobby and purchased a Tamiya M4A3 Sherman kit and am getting a bit overwhelmed with how to go about learning to paint it. I pretty much echo what Ensign Expendable said. Also, welcome to the hobby. 
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Dec 26, 2022 17:15
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I recently watched a documentary on the fighter planes of WW2. When they were covering the Spitfire, they showed some footage of a crewmember on the wing next to the cockpit and his reflection was clearly visible in the fuselage indicating that it was painted with high gloss. This was a camo scheme. Were the planes in WW2 much glossier than my experiences in scale modeling would have me believe?
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Dec 27, 2022 00:47
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SkunkDuster posted:I recently watched a documentary on the fighter planes of WW2. When they were covering the Spitfire, they showed some footage of a crewmember on the wing next to the cockpit and his reflection was clearly visible in the fuselage indicating that it was painted with high gloss. This was a camo scheme. Were the planes in WW2 much glossier than my experiences in scale modeling would have me believe? Generally yeah crews would polish their aircraft as it improved aerodynamic efficiency (and cos they were proud of their machines). However, the amount they could be maintained depended on how heavily they were being used and how much they were getting banged up - several sorties a day didn't leave as much time for polishing or touching up paintwork if their priorities lay elsewhere. Aircraft from different theatres of war would end up looking different too - late-war japanese aircraft tended to look tatty as hell as by that point they were painting straight onto bare metal without primer so the paint was often faded and chipped. From a modelling perspective - and this is purely my own observations - glossy finishes are very difficult to make look 'realistic' at the smaller scales, they tend to look more toy-like when glossy. A 1/32 or 1/24 aircraft could look more convincing with a gloss coat IMO but it's still tricky. I would usually use a final satin or semi-gloss coat to represent a high-gloss finish in 1/72. The further away you stand from a real aircraft the less reflective it'll look, so from the 'scale distance' you'd view a model aircraft from, a matte coat can often look more realistic. This is one of those things where verisimilitude would mean having to take into account more than just the way the real thing looked irl.
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Dec 27, 2022 01:40
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tidal wave emulator posted:From a modelling perspective - and this is purely my own observations - glossy finishes are very difficult to make look 'realistic' at the smaller scales, they tend to look more toy-like when glossy. A 1/32 or 1/24 aircraft could look more convincing with a gloss coat IMO but it's still tricky. Thanks for the reply. It was more for curiosity sake than going for historical accuracy. As you implied, putting a gloss coat on a smaller scale would look like garbage, and I agree. There are tons of modelers out there going for total historical accuracy, so I don't really want to do the same thing and have the same results as hundreds of other people. With my models, "looks good" or "looks interesting" trumps "historical accuracy". I have the 1/32 Tamiya Mustang and am kicking around the idea of using one of these Super Hornet camo schemes as sort of a "what if" idea.
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Dec 27, 2022 01:55
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Ensign Expendable posted:Effortpost Ensign Expendable posted:2) Base coat. You can also apply this with a spray can, especially since your Sherman is going to be olive drab, but you can always do it with a brush too. The key is to apply several thin coats to hide the brush strokes. Get Tamiya thinner for Tamiya paints, you can thin them with alcohol but not very well. Ensign Expendable posted:1) Primer. This is an important layer to give the paint something to adhere to, but also this is a pretty opaque paint that will cover up any difference in colour on the kit body. It's best to buy it in a spray can. Apply in small bursts, sweeping across the model to avoid pooling up paint anywhere. Ensign Expendable posted:3) Details. This is stuff like the pioneer tools, the machine guns, etc. If you put on the tracks already, also paint them now, although with Tamiya rubber tracks I prefer to leave the drive sprocket unglued and slip them on at the last step.
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Dec 27, 2022 02:15
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neurotech posted:Thank you for all of this! I have a few followup questions: Someone else can take this one as I had a bad habit of using Tamiya paints straight out of the pot. quote:I assume the lighter the primer, the brighter the final result after painting? For something like the Sherman, could I get away with a gray primer? Yes, but this is only really noticeable if the paint above it is translucent. If you're brush painting you're probably not going to be able to tell the difference. Gray primer is perfectly fine. quote:Should I be painting these separately before cementing them to the tank? (The tools, guns etc, not the tracks) Glue only works well on bare plastic, plus it will melt paint it comes in contact with and make a mess. You can paint small parts separately and then glue them on, but be very careful when gluing them on to the model.
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Dec 27, 2022 07:36
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my rule is to thin until the paint bubbles like skim milk when you blow air into it via pipette
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Dec 27, 2022 07:59
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Hey folks  After decades of absence I've picked up plastic modeling again and I'll also get back into painting (hand brush) real soon but I do have a somewhat specific question. What do you guys use as painting handles if you use such things? I can paint a certain amount of my parts on the skewer+clip thingies I'm going to use for priming but some parts are too small or don't have a good spot to clamp on. So I figured I probably could use little pieces of wood and put some mildly sticky putty (the white stuff pattex or pritt makes) on them to hold the piece and then paint one side and just flip it after it is done. Might even use that to prime parts that don't have a good spot for a clip. Yay? Nay? Something better??
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Dec 27, 2022 15:00
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I drill a small hole and stick a toothpick into it.
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Dec 27, 2022 15:10
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I just use PVA to stick bits to flat ended bamboo skewers.
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Dec 27, 2022 16:09
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Depending on the model or part I like to pin it some how if needed and then stick the piece on top of a pill bottle with some blue tack.
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Dec 27, 2022 16:39
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Another option is to paint them on the sprue, then cut them off and touch up the paint as needed. I often do that for the really little or delicate parts. For larger parts that are still too small to handle and paint, I stick a piece of cheap masking tape with the adhesive side up to a piece of paper and stick the parts to that.
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Dec 27, 2022 20:05
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Been trying to paint the Cougar the last week. I had a couple of Vallejo "Model Air" paints delivered to try. Nato green and black. I chose these because they are supposedly airbrush ready. The green paint seemed thick and I added a little bit of thinner to it and it seemed to work well. Put two somewhat even coats on it with issues. The black however immediately clogged the airbrush even after thinning it and was a huge hassle to clean the airbrush. Doing some reading it appears my problem may be the paint is drying too quick on the needle. -Maybe I didn't thin enough? -Do I need airbrush-specific thinner? -If I use acrylic paints from Vallejo, AK, and MIG do I really need three different branded thinners? -Should I be also looking at "flow improver" and "retarder" and make cocktail every time I want to airbrush? My hobby supplier are either a week and $20 shipping fee or 4 hrs away but I happen to be going by it tomorrow and hopefully get what I'm lacking. Appreciate any insight!
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Dec 28, 2022 06:43
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-Maybe I didn't thin enough? Most likely. -Do I need airbrush-specific thinner? Yes. -If I use acrylic paints from Vallejo, AK, and MIG do I really need three different branded thinners? Not sure for those specific brands, but some paints, like Tamiya, definitely like their own type of thinner. -Should I be also looking at "flow improver" and "retarder" and make cocktail every time I want to airbrush? Yes.
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Dec 28, 2022 11:27
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therunningman posted:
Cocktail recipe varies by climate, but can be mixed in advance: https://fasteasylearn.com/2022/11/14/basic-guide-to-miniature-airbrushes/#Thinning-%22Sauce%22
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Dec 28, 2022 14:10
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Any acrylic will be more susceptible to dry tip. Keep a brush or cotton swab handy to clear the dry tip frequently. Flow aids and retarders will help, but will never eliminate the issue altogether. Vallejo makes an "airbrush thinner" that I generally use when spraying any acrylic from the manufacturers you listed. I pre-mix it with liquitex flow-aid at a ratio of about 10:1 (thinner:flow-aid) in another bottle and it works okay. That said though, I've more or less totally moved away from spraying true acrylics if I can. If you have the ventilation and respirator, lacquers are the only reliable avenue I've found for consistently smooth spraying.
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Dec 28, 2022 14:13
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I agree with Gewehr 43, the advantages of water-based acrylics in terms of lack of noxious fumes are balanced out by the difficulty of finding the perfect thinning ratio and coping with tip dry/clogging (although you should still ventilate and wear a mask regardless). For this reason if you're starting out I'd suggest using your paint brand's own proprietary thinners rather than trying to find a universal solution/make a homebrew - leave that until you've got a better grip with how your choice of paints handles. Lacquers and enamels (and to a degree Tamiya acrylics, which are not water-based like Vallejo) are far more forgiving in that you can thin them with pretty much any kind of cellulose/lacquer thinner. Mr Color Levelling thinner is some of the best on the market as it includes a retardant to slow drying to make a smoother finish (for unknown reasons this actually works better with Tamiya acrylics than Tamiya's own X20A acrylic thinner).
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Dec 28, 2022 16:00
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Thank you for the replies! Going with the acrylics is a deliberate choice due to odors and my kids wanting to be involved. I think in the long run it will be worth the extra hassle. I will be picking up some more ingredients at the shop today and see if I can improve the process.
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Dec 28, 2022 18:12
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I've had good luck with cleaning up visible roughness with little bits of high grain sandpaper. I paint tanks though, so a smooth glossy finish is usually not required. Sometimes I do have to polish after acrylics and it takes a while. 
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Dec 28, 2022 18:47
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Thanks for the input on painting handles, everyone Another question that has popped up for me does concern glueing painted parts together. Let's say the parts have a coat of spray primer, a coat of acrylic paint, and maybe even a coat of wash. Would a glue like tamiya cement still work through the paint layers and fuse the plastic like normal?
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Dec 28, 2022 19:59
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Tin Tim posted:Thanks for the input on painting handles, everyone In my experience, Tamiya will just melt through the paint, but I'd still sand the mating surfaces a bit to ensure you're just bonding plastic to plastic with nothing else in the way.
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Dec 28, 2022 20:26
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Tin Tim posted:Thanks for the input on painting handles, everyone It will melt through the paint to the plastic, but it might do that in places you don't want it to and leave a visible mark.
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Dec 28, 2022 20:47
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Tin Tim posted:Thanks for the input on painting handles, everyone I'm a paint first / glue second kind of guy for most of the detailed parts, so I run into this all the time. Model cement will make an absolute mess of painted parts. I used to scrape and drill to get the mating surfaces clean, but I switched to using a little bit of gel type CA glue right on the painted surface and that works just fine. If, for some reason, I was going to paint larger parts - such as the wings of a plane before gluing them to the body, I would mask off the mating surfaces before painting. Sometimes even with smaller parts, I will use a little bit of blue-tack poster putty to mask off areas that will be glued. Just depends on the individual circumstance.
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Dec 29, 2022 01:06
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Hello, first time poster I tried to get into this hobby a few years ago - I put together a squad of Soviet troops (that was mostly fine, but didn't paint them), and one model from a Warhammer starter set (too small, and once I started painting I ran into some hangups), and then a tank. I think the tank burned me out because it didn't quite fit together properly and looked so slapdash that I got discouraged due to a series of life events, I decided to take another stab at it, this time with a plane so that it wouldn't have so many fiddly parts, and then with a larger scale so that the parts wouldn't be so small and fiddly to try and put together that's a 1:48 Tamiya Zero that I put together over about 4-5 hours on Wednesday afternoon. There are a few mistakes that I'm aware of, mostly related to not reading the instructions all the way through and also not exactly being able to read the instructions that are in Japanese. Anyway, I had some questions: - I read the OP, and it seems to be repping a particular kind of applicator for the liquid cement. Is there a more generic name for that tool so I can try to look for one locally? - as a corollary, if I'm using the brush that comes on the cap of the bottle of the liquid cement, what's the proper procedure for applying that? What I've been doing so far is doing a dry fit to test, then applying the cement to one of the two parts to be mated, then putting them together. Is that right? Should I put the cement on both? Should I put them together, THEN apply the cement to the edges of the fit? - are the wheels on this thing supposed to/expected to hold it up? On my model, the right one is already sagging - I know that that's partly due to a bad fit/mating and I'm going to go back and reapply it, but I'd like to know if letting it stand on the wheels is something I can look forward to it doing long-term provided I assemble it correctly, or if mounting should be done in a different way. Else, what's a good way to mount models such that they stand upright? I'm not expecting to put them in display cases or anything - I use sandpaper to file off bits of sprue to let them fit into various points better, but is there a kind of tool that would let you... drill? into a model, so that you can, say, create your own or expand an existing crevice for a part to fit into? I'm thinking about trying to paint this somehow, and I have some questions about that as well, but I'm going to stop here for now.
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Dec 29, 2022 04:21
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Thanks again for the knowledge, everyone! If my painted project turns out to not be hideous, I'll share it itt  gradenko_2000 posted:- as a corollary, if I'm using the brush that comes on the cap of the bottle of the liquid cement, what's the proper procedure for applying that? What I've been doing so far is doing a dry fit to test, then applying the cement to one of the two parts to be mated, then putting them together. Is that right? Should I put the cement on both? Should I put them together, THEN apply the cement to the edges of the fit? gradenko_2000 posted:- I use sandpaper to file off bits of sprue to let them fit into various points better, but is there a kind of tool that would let you... drill? into a model, so that you can, say, create your own or expand an existing crevice for a part to fit into?
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Dec 29, 2022 09:38
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Tin Tim posted:
If you're using squidgy/thick cement I'd strongly suggest trying out Tamiya extra thin instead, you don't need to apply it to the parts first - just hold them together then run the brush along the seam and capillary action will suck the cement in and make the cleanest weld you've ever seen. Occasionally with very soft plastic like airfix if you hold the parts together too firmly melted plastic will splooge out and need cleanup, but for the most part it's never necessary.
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Dec 29, 2022 11:22
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gradenko_2000 posted:Anyway, I had some questions: The brush is fine, but you can use a small brush if you need precision application. Someone who has an applicator can chime in, but I do it with the built in brush until the level gets too low to reach it. quote:- are the wheels on this thing supposed to/expected to hold it up? On my model, the right one is already sagging - I know that that's partly due to a bad fit/mating and I'm going to go back and reapply it, but I'd like to know if letting it stand on the wheels is something I can look forward to it doing long-term provided I assemble it correctly, or if mounting should be done in a different way. Else, what's a good way to mount models such that they stand upright? I'm not expecting to put them in display cases or anything From the few plane kits I've built yes, the landing gear should be enough to hold it up straight. Some models might be unbalanced and need you to put a small weight in the fuselage before assembly though. quote:- I use sandpaper to file off bits of sprue to let them fit into various points better, but is there a kind of tool that would let you... drill? into a model, so that you can, say, create your own or expand an existing crevice for a part to fit into? Yes, you can get a pin vise and small drill bits to drill into your model. You can also buy a small hobby saw that fits into your hobby knife handle. quote:I'm thinking about trying to paint this somehow, and I have some questions about that as well, but I'm going to stop here for now. Painting is the best part, don't hesitate to ask.
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Dec 29, 2022 12:15
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Thank you for the responses! As far as painting, what I used to do was to take some primer that came in spraypaint form, and then spray that on the model as a first step. I guess for this plane I should tape-off the faux-glass cockpit so the primer doesn't render it opaque? And then, I've watched some youtube videos about this model specifically, and I'm definitely not in the mindset to do the aging/wearing stuff. Or at least not yet So like, once I have the primer on, I could, say, take a wide (like 2 cm?) brush and apply a base coat/color, and then from there add whatever details I might want to engage with? Is it okay to paint on top of paint?
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Dec 29, 2022 12:28
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See my recent post on a painting primer. You will definitely want to mask the canopy with masking tape. If you want to spend money, you can get precut masks for canopies. You can paint on top of other paint regardless of type once it has dried/cured completely.
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Dec 29, 2022 12:40
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gradenko_2000 posted:- as a corollary, if I'm using the brush that comes on the cap of the bottle of the liquid cement, what's the proper procedure for applying that? What I've been doing so far is doing a dry fit to test, then applying the cement to one of the two parts to be mated, then putting them together. Is that right? Should I put the cement on both? Should I put them together, THEN apply the cement to the edges of the fit? Hey, the grog thread is leaking! Welcome, Gradenko. 1. If you're using liquid cement, it's meant to be applied via capillary action. Hold the two pieces together then touch the join with the tip of the glue brush. The liquid cement will flow between the two mating surfaces and weld them in fairly quick order. 2. Yes, generally most model kits are designed such that their landing gear should hold their weight. Some kits are notoriously fiddly and have weak gear, but most kits are solid in that regard. As EE said, for tricycle gear aircraft, you typically need to add a little weight to the nose (fishing sinkers or other lead weight) to keep the kit from squatting on it's tail. 3. If expanding a hole for two parts, I typically just ream it a little bit with the tip of a hobby knife. As others have said, you can get pin vises (and you should if you stick with the hobby), but I think what you may be after here is a good set of sprue cutters. They're basically flush-faced cutters that allow you to make a very clean cut of the part from the sprue. Tamiya makes a set that hits a sweet spot of functionality and price. Cut the piece off the sprue, leaving a little lug of plastic from the sprue on the part, then use a hobby knife or sanding stick to clean up the little lug. Edit: Also, sanding sticks are great. They look like nail files, come in different grits, and are more rigid than sandpaper which allows for a more accurate sanding action. gradenko_2000 posted:Thank you for the responses! 1. Yes, definitely. It's tedious to mask the clear bits, but it makes all the difference in the world to the finished product. There are some good tutorials out there on youtube that help with tips and tricks to make it suck somewhat less. Mask it, spray prime it, then (assuming you're brush painting) I'd recommend sealing it with a clear gloss spray before brush painting. That'll help keep any paint from running under the masks. If it does, you can always scrape it away lightly with a toothpick. 2. Don't sweat weathering until you want to. I built quite a few of my first models without weathering as early on I was just tickled pink to have a somewhat presentable finished product. Whenever that gets old to you, start looking at paint chipping techniques, exhaust staining, and light dirt/mud to give your models a little more pizzazz. 3. Yes, exactly. Prime it, then brush paint it with several thin coats. It's much better to apply 2-3 thin coats of paint than one heavy one. The latter will always leave you with brush marks. Generally, it is okay to paint on top of paint. Some people say that putting x type of paint over y type of paint (e.g enamels over lacquers or whatever) will cause problems, but I can't say as I've ever experienced that. If you're brush painting, you're probably doing so with acrylics, and acrylics over acrylics is a-okay. Do as many layers as you want, just make sure the under layer is dry. Also, it's easier to put a dark paint over a light paint than vice versa. Again, welcome. Good luck, and enjoy the journey. This hobby is less about the destination and more about the process, so try to enjoy it. It's always okay to throw away a lovely kit if it's frustrating you. Use https://scalemates.com to check out build reviews of interesting kits before buying them (or just google something like "tamiya 1/48 zero build review") to get a feel for how a kit builds up.
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Dec 29, 2022 13:35
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tidal wave emulator posted:If you're using squidgy/thick cement I'd strongly suggest trying out Tamiya extra thin instead, you don't need to apply it to the parts first - just hold them together then run the brush along the seam and capillary action will suck the cement in and make the cleanest weld you've ever seen. Occasionally with very soft plastic like airfix if you hold the parts together too firmly melted plastic will splooge out and need cleanup, but for the most part it's never necessary. Here's something to illustrate my situation  This is a weapon from an old equipment set I'm currently doing on the side. The molds are from the 80s so aside from a whole slew of other problems the final pieces also have seam lines for days. As you can hopefully see there isn't actually much excess material coming up from the seam with the basic tamiya cement. It still needs a decent sanding job though and not having to do it would indeed be nice.  Here is an almost finished weapon from the same set. You can still see some of the seam on the front part but it's just discoloration. The backside came out very smooth and uniform but yeah it did take a certain amount of sanding work. Oh and here is a tip from me to the thread. If you're thinking about buying some form of stand for holding your priming sticks then don't!  All it takes is some old cardboard with the right structure and some packing tape. Be sure to tape up the underside though so that your sticks don't slip down to the freshly primed part they're holding
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Dec 29, 2022 15:21
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Doesn't matter which glue you use, it will always require sanding/filling if you want to make the seams invisible. You can certainly get clean seams with a good glue and practice, but it will still be visible in the end without sanding.
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Dec 29, 2022 15:33
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^^^What he said. I recall when I first started modeling as an adult that I was shocked at how little time was spent actually assembling parts and how much time was spent prepping parts for assembly. Sanding is a fact of life here. With practice, a good kit, good glue, and good tools, you can minimize the amount of time spent sanding, but you'll never eliminate it.
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Dec 29, 2022 17:56
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Tin Tim posted:All it takes is some old cardboard with the right structure and some packing tape. Be sure to tape up the underside though so that your sticks don't slip down to the freshly primed part they're holding Packing material styrofoam is also excellent for holding the dozens of long-tailed alligator clips you will absolutely need. I was gifted a pair of glass files this year, and they're amazing, you absolutely want some. I also gave myself a pair of God Hand nippers and... parts just fall off the sprue, there's no resistance to the cuts. I'm using my old pair to cut pieces free from the sprue and the God Hands to do the clean-up cut. That's good technique with any nippers and saves the expensive ones for what they're best at. Happy New Year and may your backlog never outgrow your storage space. Much.
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Dec 29, 2022 19:21
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Sometimes you get lucky with kits that are very cleverly designed (Tamiya) so any big obvious fuselage part joins mate along panel lines. It's been so long since I've done a big aircraft build that I've nearly forgotten the amount of sanding and cleanup necessary - one nice thing about ships is that other than the big lower to upper hull waterline join most of the gluing you need to do is just plopping parts down onto surfaces.
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Dec 29, 2022 19:26
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Glass files? What is this witchcraft and what makes them so much better than regular sanding sticks?
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Dec 29, 2022 19:40
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Gewehr 43 posted:Glass files? What is this witchcraft and what makes them so much better than regular sanding sticks? They're easy to clean, don't wear down, and are so much stronger than the plastic that they sand quicker and cleaner. They're just really, really nice files.
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Dec 29, 2022 20:00
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I primed my model today, so the next step is to start painting a base coat. Just a double-check from the OP: I should thin my paints (ALWAYS!!!), and acrylics can be thinned just by combining the paint with some water, and it's better to err on the side of more thin than less, because you can always just apply another coat. I know this will vary from paint to paint, but any ideas on what sort of proportions on paint-to-water to start with as a baseline?
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Dec 30, 2022 15:35
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