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Sydney Bottocks posted:I know there's at least one company that is taking the same sort of hardware used in Android TV devices, and making general purpose Linux boxes out of them. I wish I could remember the name of the specific company I saw that makes them, but there's a couple YouTubers that have used those devices as Pi alternatives for Klipper and/or Octoprint (and others that have used them to replace a RPi for other purposes, like media centers and so forth). Was it the Inovata Quadro? I was just looking at those this morning, as I'm sitting here fighting with an Octoprint instance that seems to have self-destructed since yesterday. I see that people are using them for Klipper but I can't find much info on installing just Octoprint on one. e- I ordered the $30 one to try out anyway, I can always pass it along to one of my fellow nerd friends if it doesn't turn out to be useful to me. Acid Reflux fucked around with this message at 17:35 on Dec 26, 2022 |
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Dec 26, 2022 17:25
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Acid Reflux posted:Was it the Inovata Quadro? I was just looking at those this morning, as I'm sitting here fighting with an Octoprint instance that seems to have self-destructed since yesterday. I see that people are using them for Klipper but I can't find much info on installing just Octoprint on one. Yeah, I think that's the one. It's been a couple of years since I last ran or installed Octoprint, but I would think that it should work on any OS that also works on the Pi, such as whatever flavor of Debian.
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Dec 26, 2022 17:35
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That was kind of my thought too, hence the edit above just now. It's absolutely worth a try at that price.
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Dec 26, 2022 17:37
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I've recently got myself a Mars 2 pro. Is there an established best setup for ventilation? During which steps and for how long is ventilation necessary?
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Dec 26, 2022 19:18
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The absolute best would be to have it in a separate warehouse with great ventilation and a lot of space that you use for your youtube filming.  Failing that, the best is to have a separate area with exhaust ventilation, separate from your main living space. (Garage, cellar, dedicated workshop room. All with decent ventilation, some of them with temperature management as needed.) The baseline is that you want as little crossover as possible with your living space, and if you can't set up a space dedicated to it, you should re-evaluate if it's safe or practical for you to have the printer. (Or if it's better to get one at a different point in life.) Resin exposure is one of those vague things that creep up on you, so exactly how stringent your security measures end up being is on you. Suggestions you'll get, especially from us goons will err on the side of very healthy caution. Better safe than sorry, y'know. Don't want to get deep into the hobby and then have to drop it because of resin-itis. As for when you need ventilation? It's worst during curing(and thus printing, though that's atleast enclosed by default) as I understand it, but you should really have ventilation going from you crack open the resin bottle/printer lid, and until everything is done, printed, cleaned, and cursed. If you clean with IPA that'll hang around and be hella potent for quite a while afterwards. If you have to do it indoors, you'd be best off with a small workshop room, or perhaps a bathroom/washing room if you have one to spare. Outside of that, there are a lot of decent, big, cheap closets you can convert into a 3D print closet, with an exhaust that goes straight out a vent through an extractor fan of some kind, but poo poo like the IPA will nuke your entire living area if it's not enclosed to a specific room.
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Dec 26, 2022 22:00
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NomNomNom posted:Looking for a pi to run octoprint (for my cnc). What's the best value pi thing these days? Refurbished thin clients and business desktops can be a good option. I've used: https://www.dellrefurbished.com/item/dell-optiplex-3020-sff-no-os-000029/dell-optiplex-3020-sff-no-os/1.html I've also heard good things about the samller and cheaper del wyse thin clients.
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Dec 26, 2022 22:09
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SubNat posted:and until everything is done, printed, cleaned, and cursed. This loving print looks like dogshit hosed by another pile of bigger and grosser dogshit!!!
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Dec 26, 2022 22:22
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Any idea why Prusaslicer really wants to print the top of a hole at max speed? I noticed it's doing this for all of them. I have detect bridging perimeters on, bridging should be 20mm/s max. Makes it very droopy and I cannot understand why it's doing that.  Edit: If I tell it a speed for certain layers it'll follow that, but otherwise I'm at a loss for how to get it to like...not do this ever. Edit2: If I turn off detect bridging it at least prints at the speed that layer should be at, so for whatever reason it recognizes this as a bridge, but then just goes full speed instead of what I have bridging set to. Bondematt fucked around with this message at 23:05 on Dec 26, 2022 |
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Dec 26, 2022 23:02
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SubNat posted:
My biggest issue is the Anycubic M3 range apparently vents from the bottom, so seemingly there's no easy way to ventilate without cutting a hole in the lid. I do however print in a large, drafty garage, and generally aren't around when it's printing, unless I'm faffing about with the FDM printer. Wear a mask and gloves, always. I have a wash and cure kit which makes things much, much easier from a cleanup perspective. I had been using IPA with a spray bottle. somewhat haphazardly to clean off my FDM printer with paper towels prior though. Ma bit more careful with that now.
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Dec 27, 2022 00:34
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So I get the impression those little in-unit air filters elegoo sells aren't up to the task? Are the anycubic ones any better?
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Dec 27, 2022 00:40
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Vaginaface posted:So I get the impression those little in-unit air filters elegoo sells aren't up to the task? Are the anycubic ones any better? I generally don't consider the in-unit filters adequate for the purposes of safety. I consider them convenience and smell mitigation. You have to get deep in the chemistry of the filter reaction and then the physics of the filter itself to be sure that a filter venting into living space is not just getting rid of what you can smell and leaving behind stuff that you can't, and even at that point it's only for as long as the filter is good and doesn't need replaced. If possible get dryer hose, an in-line fan, and a window adapter then have an enclosure around the printer with air being pulled into the dryer hose and venting out the window. edit: additionally you want the in-line fan as close to the window as possible so that the end from the printer to the fan is the negative pressure side.
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Dec 27, 2022 01:00
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I appreciate all the feedback. I don't think I've ever spent this much time preparing to turn an electronic on
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Dec 27, 2022 02:15
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Is there a method of calibrating bottom layer exposure time, number of layers, transition layers etc for resin? Winter weathers led to a bunch of failures the last couple days and I want to make sure I'm on the right track
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Dec 27, 2022 07:25
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The m5 continues to be pretty great but 1. Man, Anker slicer continues to be the absolute worst There's profiles for Cura + PrusaSlicer which I'll dig into next month since I'm in full production mode and don't have time to dick around right now 2. I really wish it came with a smooth sheet in addition to the textured one. It does way more intense bed leveling than I've seen from other printers (it does a 7x7 probe, but it takes ten minutes) (and you just do it once) But ... y'know, PLA still hates adhering well to textured PEI if theres any small islands to the first layer 3. I think I need to set up a second workbench for this, away from my Prusas. This thing rocks the gently caress out of my entire house when it kicks into full gear 4. Still fast, still loud. Friend came over today while it was running and thought I had left a faucet on somewhere. 5. The webcam is pretty useless for monitoring your prints. It's at maybe a ...5 degree angle to the bed, if that. However, re: the AI FAILURE DETECTION feature, it actually does something really cool that Spaghetti Detective etc should probably nick-- after it finishes the first layer, it raises the Z axis by like 30mm and does a scan to make sure the first layer went down properly. Given that that's 90% of failures IME, this is a pretty smart move. Best as I can tell the way the """AI FAILURE DETECTION""" works is that it just pre-bakes a "THIS IS WHAT THE MODEL WILL LOOK LIKE WHEN PRINTING" series of images in that the printer is cross-referencing. Vs e.g. the Spaghetti Detective is using AI pattern matching to identify loose filament and freak out and pause my print any time I use gyroid infill 6. Really looking for someone to sort out running octoprint on this thing. That'd be swell. e:  This is not useful. Sockser fucked around with this message at 08:28 on Dec 27, 2022 |
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Dec 27, 2022 08:23
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Sockser posted:4. Still fast, still loud. Friend came over today while it was running and thought I had left a faucet on somewhere. Concrete tile, and some foam. Decouple it from the table.
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Dec 27, 2022 08:27
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Nerobro posted:Concrete tile, and some foam. Decouple it from the table. Genuinely, this thing shakes so loving hard I think the Ikea frankenstein it's sitting on wouldn't be able to keep up even with that. She loving moves e: to clarify, the "LOUD" is entirely from the fans. The actual motors and such are as quiet as any other printer I've been around, but the fans clock in at 70db, it's nuts.
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Dec 27, 2022 08:29
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Sockser posted:Genuinely, this thing shakes so loving hard I think the Ikea frankenstein it's sitting on wouldn't be able to keep up even with that. The whole point of foam and the concrete is to decouple the printer. The concrete isn't critical, but putting the whole thing on foam blocks would do too. Pretty flimsy tables work really well if the printer and the table have a dampened coupling. 70db is.. significant.
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Dec 27, 2022 08:32
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w00tmonger posted:Is there a method of calibrating bottom layer exposure time, number of layers, transition layers etc for resin? Cones of Calibration worked for me! https://www.tableflipfoundry.com/
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Dec 27, 2022 09:06
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So now that my voron has been running pretty steadily for a while now and producing great prints, it's time for a new project. Any here built one of the ERCF systems? The wife saw a bunch of pics of the multicolor prints coming out of people's Bambu printers and asked if I could do the same.
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Dec 27, 2022 16:46
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Upgrade to Tap first.
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Dec 27, 2022 18:31
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long time no see, postres. re: ventilation- the primary issue isn’t the resin, as it’s not particularly volatile, but rather the VOCs from the wash alcohol, which are. extraction of the hood fumes to outside is ideal, but there are options if that’s not possible. the stock Mars filters don’t really seem to do poo poo, probably because they’re once-through filtration through lovely filter pads you probably never change. but a recirculating air filter, that draws from then exhausts back into the printer hood or better yet a workspace-sized enclosure (a tight-sealing grow-tent around the machine and your wash setups, for example), is much better at continuously stripping VOCs from the work enclosure. building your own air filter that accepts the standardized sizes of carbon filters for HVAC or air purifiers seems like the way to go, most of the purpose-made air filters have small and lovely filter mediums that are very expensive to replace, which you have to do regularly or it won’t work. you’ll probably get months of service from a big box filter cartridge, though, much more than for the Mars-scale proprietary air filter cartridges.
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Dec 27, 2022 22:14
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Ambrose Burnside posted:re: ventilation- the primary issue isn’t the resin, as it’s not particularly volatile, but rather the VOCs from the wash alcohol, which are. Looks like I need to be a bit better from now on - I havent been wearing the respirator when dealing with the alcohol, only when I've been loading the printer / switching resin / handling uncured prints. I do mostly have it contained in the wash and cure station though.
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Dec 28, 2022 04:15
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Got a new bike and therefore new things to print
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Dec 28, 2022 05:39
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For those of us who don't mind the budget filaments - IIID Max has a 15% off end-of-year sale coupon. At current prices, that brings a 10-pack of PLA+ down to $101.92 shipped in the USA. https://llldmax.com/ Coupon code is HAPPY2023
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Dec 28, 2022 14:11
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Acid Reflux posted:For those of us who don't mind the budget filaments - IIID Max has a 15% off end-of-year sale coupon. At current prices, that brings a 10-pack of PLA+ down to $101.92 shipped in the USA. This is a big deal. I've bought from them before. The filament is ~really not bad at all~. I've had better luck with IIID Max filament than with stuff from microcenter.
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Dec 28, 2022 17:39
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is PLA+ any harder to work with? i have a roll i bought by accident
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Dec 28, 2022 17:56
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Deviant posted:is PLA+ any harder to work with? i have a roll i bought by accident If it's harder to work with than normal PLA then they screwed up. The plus is just supposed to signify additional properties vs normal pla (toughness, temperature resistance etc)
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Dec 28, 2022 18:02
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I don't know if there's a standard formulation for PLA+ but the black Duramic PLA Plus on amazon is some of my favorite stuff. It's $20 a roll but prints really well. It's just not on sale like ever, but they let me add it to subscribe and save at some point so I think I have 6 rolls here buried in my pile of filament. https://smile.amazon.com/DURAMIC-3D-Filament-Printing-Dimensional/dp/B07TWDF866/ The 3D Printy designed latching gift boxes worked out well for xmas for my cousin's kids. I did put chocolates in them so I think that helps. My other cousin wants to get a 3d printer to make some accessories for his jeep. I told him that it can be a lot to learn but I encourged it and told him to get the Ender 3 V.2 so we'll see. He hasn't texted me about it yet.  
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Dec 28, 2022 18:49
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Deviant posted:is PLA+ any harder to work with? i have a roll i bought by accident TL;DR: No. It maybe strings a little more? It doesn't become as brittle as normal PLA does.
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Dec 28, 2022 18:51
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Deviant posted:is PLA+ any harder to work with? i have a roll i bought by accident About the same difficulty. Pla+/tough is good stuff, it's my main filament. The extra temperature tolerance and strength is well worth it
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Dec 28, 2022 19:07
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I just started loving with PLA+ It seems to adhere better to the bed than regular PLA It seems as tough as PETG It sands like a dang dream Might be my new standard material for mechanical parts
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Dec 28, 2022 19:16
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I don't believe there is a hard standard for "PLA+", thus it is difficult to give a blanket statement that will apply to all. But Overture's black PLA+ gave me issues with warping while their black regular PLA was fine. I still have the roll of plus and use it only for small things when I'm out of other black filaments.
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Dec 28, 2022 19:18
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PLA+ usually just means PLA with some elastomers in there to mitigate brittleness. Some brands overdo it but it's usually an improvement.
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Dec 28, 2022 19:23
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FYI for folks using my Sovol profiles in Cura -- they just merged, so the 5.3 release will have these as stock.  Also, zero thanks to Sovol themselves not only for being completely nonresponsive to an invitation to review them, but for reneging on their offer to discount a SV04 to put one in my hands so I could do profiles for that, too!  Nerobro posted:This is a big deal. I've bought from them before. The filament is ~really not bad at all~. I've had better luck with IIID Max filament than with stuff from microcenter. Their stuff is my go-to for mass printing etc., and it's really totally fine stuff. Dr. Fishopolis posted:PLA+ usually just means PLA with some elastomers in there to mitigate brittleness. Some brands overdo it but it's usually an improvement. Yup. If you want to get technical, most of the cheap PLA+ who actually divulge their recipe seems to be is 97% PLA, 3% calcium carbonate. At least one of the more premium filaments (particularly Polymaker PolyMax PLA+, aka Inland Tough PLA, but don't buy this stuff because Polymaker uses chuds as the face of their company) use about 10% acrylic instead. tracecomplete fucked around with this message at 20:13 on Dec 28, 2022 |
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Dec 28, 2022 20:10
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I use Inland PLA+ for everything that doesn't require high heat resistance or flexibility, and it's been perfectly fine to work with.
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Dec 28, 2022 21:05
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tracecomplete posted:Don't buy this stuff because Polymaker uses chuds as the face of their company The what now? I hate this poo poo, I have to hold my tongue routinely about Titans of CNC because Gilroy is an absolute CHUD and dipshit.
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Dec 28, 2022 21:14
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I don't need a Bambu X1C + AMS but there it is, sitting in a cart, waiting for me to hit the buy button. Someone talk me outta it!
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Dec 28, 2022 21:39
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I'll be that guy: Nah, just go ahead and do it. Hell, it's already got your wife's support! (from a certain point of view)
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Dec 28, 2022 21:45
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NewFatMike posted:The what now? I hate this poo poo, I have to hold my tongue routinely about Titans of CNC because Gilroy is an absolute CHUD and dipshit. I assume it's related to this https://twitter.com/3DPrintGeneral/status/1577102230443872257
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Dec 28, 2022 22:26
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I wonder how close polymaker looks at youtubers besides subscriber count. I followed 3d print general at one point for his reviews of printers but he's all about 3d printing guns and going to 3d printed gun events and talking to people about bitcoin and stuff. Pretty terrible in general for a number of reasons. I don't really care if people 3d print gun parts since they're generally not amazing and it's become illegal in a lot of places (even here in the garden state) but turning it into a culture seems to attract a lot of dipshits.
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Dec 28, 2022 23:40
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