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PainterofCrap posted:Smartest thing you could have done is left the heat on. I don't know what a hose bib is, or at least not that name for it  I can access the line where water comes in from the street, and it looks pretty intact if chilly to the touch. The meter's also holding steady so I'm not sensing a leak hiding somewhere, but I'll keep an eye on it over the next couple of days.everdave posted:If your faucets all work you are good as far as I know. I’m just glad I left my heat at 68 while I’m gone for 20 days I used to punch it down to 55. But we’ve never had -14 before here like now Until last year we had a dog and would have people come through to watch him while we were away, but this is the first time we've gone on vacation during the winter months since he passed so it didn't even occur to me to do stuff like turn down the heat or drip the faucets. Next time!
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Dec 27, 2022 20:49
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C-Euro posted:I don't know what a hose bib is, or at least not that name for it Outside faucets for a hose. See also: sillcocks
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Dec 28, 2022 05:40
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Found the reason the tub was draining slow, it had gotten stuck underneath the drain plug. I just wish I had figured that out before snaking the pipe all the way to the vertical stack. Dammit, kids.
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Dec 30, 2022 02:47
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I remember having a plumber in to do a camera inspection under the slab of this foreclosed house. This was around 2000 and the rig was huge, with a 10" CRT monitor. So we're crowded into this powder room as he runs this cable the size of a vacuum cleaner hose down the toilet line, and shortly the camera is submerged, and we go around a bend - ...and there's a Barbie doll head, smiling right into the camera, covered in mung and hair. We nearly jumped out of our skins.
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Dec 30, 2022 03:58
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We haven't pulled or snaked the toilet yet but there is a marker in there. Somewhere. Waiting. Crayola washable though so it should come out easy. 
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Dec 30, 2022 06:11
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I've got a water well that's in a particularly nasty iron pocket, evidently. I was finally able to get the water quality mostly under control with a softener, but my hot water is still very discolored from buildup inside the units. Is there any way to clean the iron out from the HWH or am I basically in the market for a replacement? Iron Out is the best product Ive found for getting rid of the stains, but it specifically tells me not to use it in a HWH. I am guessing it's because of the off gassing in a sealed unit? Does anyone have any experience dealing with this kinda thing? My wife is very tired of taking baths in gross looking water.
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Dec 30, 2022 14:26
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Rufio posted:I've got a water well that's in a particularly nasty iron pocket, evidently. I was finally able to get the water quality mostly under control with a softener, but my hot water is still very discolored from buildup inside the units. Is there any way to clean the iron out from the HWH or am I basically in the market for a replacement? Is HWH "hot water heater"? If it's tanked have you turned it off, drained it, filled it and drained it again? Sounds like you have a bunch of sludge on the bottom that getting stirred up. Step one is getting that out of there.
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Dec 30, 2022 14:59
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I'm glad you were able to parse my nonsense. I haven't actually tried anything because like a true goon, I ask here first. I'll start by doing a few cycles of draining and filling. Considering the amount of iron that builds up on fixtures, I can imagine that the walls of the tank are pretty well sludged as well. Any way to take care of that?
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Dec 30, 2022 15:40
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Rufio posted:Considering the amount of iron that builds up on fixtures, I can imagine that the walls of the tank are pretty well sludged as well. Any way to take care of that? By rinsing the tank out. That's why I'm suggesting complete fill and drains, not just partial ones to take care of sediment on the bottom. If you get it to run clear when draining chances are high it going to produce clean hot water when you put it back into service. You may need another flush after a full heat cycle, maybe not. But this is the gentlest way to try things with the least chance of damaging anything. If the heater is more than 10 years old and hasn't been serviced there's a better than not chance opening the drain valve will do 2 things: not drain ay water, because it's covered in sludge and never seal/close again. So if the heater is that old I'd buy another valve for it first and be ready to swap them. And be ready to poke a hole through the sludge clogging the drain. Motronic fucked around with this message at 16:00 on Dec 30, 2022 |
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Dec 30, 2022 15:58
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We have a lot of iron (oxide) in our water (probably from the crusty old town water tower, since we're on a fairly deep aquifer, the Potomac-Raritan-Magothy) and there really isn't much I can do about it except live with it. I ran a whole-house filter for nearly 20-years in an effort to correct it and all that did was produce a generation of rusty-looking water filter elements. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 16:16 on Dec 30, 2022 |
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Dec 30, 2022 16:11
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I am interested installing a utility sink, I have done some basic pvc plumbing but it’s mostly been repairs. There are existing hook ups copper pipes and a pvc drain but I would like to install the sink about 2ft to right. Can I just add about 2ft of pipe between the p trap and the wall without moving the existing installation?
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Jan 2, 2023 02:25
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Sure, so long as it is going downhill. This is a good early project for doing plumbing. Repairs set you up for it more than you may realize.
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Jan 2, 2023 03:40
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Calidus posted:I am interested installing a utility sink, I have done some basic pvc plumbing but it’s mostly been repairs. There are existing hook ups copper pipes and a pvc drain but I would like to install the sink about 2ft to right. Can I just add about 2ft of pipe between the p trap and the wall without moving the existing installation? Heck yeah great project. I just did one myself. Probably the main thing that might challenge you is moving the drain that far, since the sinks themselves aren't really that big. You might have exposed pipe to the left of your sink that is suspect for getting hit or being in your way. Take a pic of what you got if you want advice. Edit, since it's so fresh I thought I'd add what I learned. Utility sinks are deep, so the Roughin ends up lower than you'd expect or the tailpipe can be a lot shorter. I bought a cheap plastic one at home depot that came with everything. That is mostly fine except I was rough with it and broke the corner unpacking it. Oh did I mention it is deep? The supply connections are also a lot lower than I expected. I should have bought the sink first and did the plumbing after. What's weird is despite that being an issue they supply lines they shipped with were very short. Like they didn't extend beneath the tub at all, so I had to get longer ones. Behold, my project that could have come out a lot better had I simply bought the sink first. I haven't sheetrocked it yet because transporting the drywall is annoying. So you get an xray view. 
StormDrain fucked around with this message at 03:58 on Jan 2, 2023 |
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Jan 2, 2023 03:50
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My plan was to build a little counter top to hide the pipes. 
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Jan 2, 2023 04:02
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Calidus posted:My plan was to build a little counter top to hide the pipes. Fix your janky rear end dryer vent before your house burns down. You should have straight wall ducting for your dryer so that lint cannot as easily accumulate on it. Your little flex coil thing that disappears into your crawl space is probably filled with lint in every nook and cranny and if any of it ever gets too hot or a spark is introduced, it'll burn up that whole thing and your house is going to go with it. SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 04:15 on Jan 2, 2023 |
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Jan 2, 2023 04:12
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SpartanIvy posted:Fix your janky rear end dryer vent before your house burns down. You should have straight wall ducting for your dryer so that lint cannot as easily accumulate on it. Your little flex coil thing that disappears into your crawl space is probably filled with lint in every nook and cranny and if any of it ever gets too hot or a spark is introduced, it'll burn up that whole thing and your house is going to go with it. Welp I guess I know what I am doing on my day off tomorrow . Straight wall ducting means normal 6” round pipe ?
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Jan 2, 2023 04:35
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Calidus posted:Welp I guess I know what I am doing on my day off tomorrow . Straight wall ducting means normal 6” round pipe ? 4 inch. Use aluminum not steel as it will corrode over time. Aluminum foil tape helps seal the connections.
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Jan 2, 2023 05:13
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Don't use screws or rivets either, I think the modern best practice is to only use heat rated foil tape on the connections. Also make sure you join the male and female ends of the duct in the correct orientation so that the male duct is exhausting into the female duct. If you get it backwards, lint will accumulate between the lip of the male duct and the female duct.
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Jan 2, 2023 05:24
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Lol the unintended consequences! Dryer venting guidelines I used one of these when I moved my dryer and I couldn't be happier, you probably won't have to go to that extent, they have really clear guidelines for venting if you actually have to do anything more than replacing the hose that connects the dryer to the vent piping.
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Jan 2, 2023 05:57
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I had to spend a day in my crawlspace replacing a vent line with new aluminum ducting. It was a pain in the rear end but my dryer works so much better now. The old ducting was supposed to have been replaced as a part of the sale of the house but you know how that goes. It was old galvanized ducting and parts were so rusted it was falling apart and other parts were like 90% clogged. Could have been a fire and cost less than 100 to fix it the right way.
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Jan 2, 2023 15:08
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That’s not a fire hazard or anything 
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Jan 2, 2023 17:36
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Calidus posted:That’s not a fire hazard or anything  I'm glad you are replacing that.
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Jan 2, 2023 17:58
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Calidus posted:That’s not a fire hazard or anything Holy poo poo, so it really was pvc flex all the way out under there? Awful.
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Jan 2, 2023 20:05
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StormDrain posted:Holy poo poo, so it really was pvc flex all the way out under there? Awful. About 12ft to the exterior wall, probably 40 years worth of lint.
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Jan 2, 2023 20:46
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Our dryer vent was packed bad when we moved in, bad enough I just paid someone to deal with it. Got one of the flex rod kits and clean the duct from the outside annually in the fall before the weather turns cold.
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Jan 3, 2023 00:23
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Getting ready to service my dryer.The tension pulley is squeaking. Pull the whole thing out & vacuum it, wipe it down check the burner. That 'dryer ell' thing looks like the thing for me except that the hole through the wall (& the asbestos shingle siding) is down near the bottom of the floor, not far from the dryer vent discharge & it's slammed against the wall. That tub they sell might be just the thing.
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Jan 3, 2023 01:39
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Ideal dryer duct configuration is to have it go up right at the source, with 45 degree bends(not 90), all aluminum with foil tape joints. Then slope the rest down, like a regular plumbing drain, all the way out to the vent. You can run it for about 35' like that, with -5' for every 90 degree bend. Very similar to the ejection pump, minus the vents. You can also put a wye/cleanout in accessible section for easy future cleaning.
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Jan 3, 2023 16:05
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I posted a while ago about my irrigation anti siphon valves and after basically being told they were 1) installed incorrectly/too low), 2) also complete garbage, so I've been looking at what to do in the meantime while I try to find a plumber that isn't doing whole house remodels or new construction here. Just trying to logic my way through this, is backflow risk only when the irrigation valve is open? If so, I could just leave them closed/turned off for now? It looks like they close by the inlet water filling a bonnet chamber above a diaphragm which pushes it down and stops water flow through the valve. Turning on the valve drains the chamber and the water pressure can then lift the diaphragm. I'm wondering if in the closed position, where there's basically supply water keeping the bonnet chamber full, and the only water pressure from the outlet side being water left in the irrigation line draining back to the valve). In a backpressure event, wouldn't the diaphragm stay closed since the bonnet chamber is still full? Also, wouldn't the remaining elevated water in the irrigation lines just drain back down and pour out the Atmospheric Vacuum breaker and make a mess, or does it collect in the vacuum breaker and basically hold it open? Understand it all still sucks if a siphon occurs while in operation since the water in the line wouldn't continue draining out and absolutely don't intend to just live with it, but want to make sure were safe until it gets done right. Also, what's the go-to for outdoor hose bib backflow preventers? I see a bunch are screw-ons, and ours aren't built in, but don't want to get something cheap that is going to break or work like crap. PageMaster fucked around with this message at 22:37 on Jan 4, 2023 |
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Jan 4, 2023 22:34
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is it a frost free anti-siphon.. the anti-siphon is backflow protection if I recall correctly. If as you say you don't have an anti-siphon one other than that just toss on one of those screw on ones with the holes. Any of those outdoor ones are just a little disk in there so they're mostly gooing to be subject to breaking unless you put a backflow preventer on the indoor pipes.
tater_salad fucked around with this message at 15:29 on Jan 5, 2023 |
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Jan 5, 2023 15:27
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tater_salad posted:is it a frost free anti-siphon.. the anti-siphon is backflow protection if I recall correctly. If as you say you don't have an anti-siphon one other than that just toss on one of those screw on ones with the holes. Any of those outdoor ones are just a little disk in there so they're mostly gooing to be subject to breaking unless you put a backflow preventer on the indoor pipes. Thanks! not a frost-free one (we're in SoCal)but irrigation line isn't coming off the hose-bib, but off the main towards the house. I know the anti-siphon valve provides the backflow prevention with the vacuum breaker, but they sit below the drip-emitters, which I believe keeps them from working as backflow prevention.
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Jan 5, 2023 17:22
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PageMaster posted:I posted a while ago about my irrigation anti siphon valves and after basically being told they were 1) installed incorrectly/too low), 2) also complete garbage, so I've been looking at what to do in the meantime while I try to find a plumber that isn't doing whole house remodels or new construction here. Just trying to logic my way through this, is backflow risk only when the irrigation valve is open? If so, I could just leave them closed/turned off for now? It looks like they close by the inlet water filling a bonnet chamber above a diaphragm which pushes it down and stops water flow through the valve. Turning on the valve drains the chamber and the water pressure can then lift the diaphragm. I'm wondering if in the closed position, where there's basically supply water keeping the bonnet chamber full, and the only water pressure from the outlet side being water left in the irrigation line draining back to the valve). In a backpressure event, wouldn't the diaphragm stay closed since the bonnet chamber is still full? Also, wouldn't the remaining elevated water in the irrigation lines just drain back down and pour out the Atmospheric Vacuum breaker and make a mess, or does it collect in the vacuum breaker and basically hold it open? Understand it all still sucks if a siphon occurs while in operation since the water in the line wouldn't continue draining out and absolutely don't intend to just live with it, but want to make sure were safe until it gets done right. OK I was just researching this as I have one to plumb in after I had to temporarily disconnect it. Backflow risk is when the valve TO the preventor (from the house) is open, there's not much pressure when none of your irrigation valves are open, and low risk. The situation when you get backflow is if the pressure drops in your house and the water from the irrigation feeds back into the house as there has been a vacuum created. If your irrigation is on timers, if you experience no pressure at the house for an extended period you have the risk then. It seems like you're expecting there to be high pressure on the exterior, when the real issue is lack of pressure on the inside, and the head pressure from the irrigation you have that is higher than the anti-siphon valve keeps it open and drains back to the house until it's drained lower than the anti siphon valve. So ultimate solution is to raise the anti siphon valve. Here's what I was reading, I found it well written and easy to follow. https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/yard-garden/home-sprinkler-systems-backflow-prevention-devices-4-714/ For anything hose-bibb I always see Woodford specified on my projects and that's what I installed at my house. That could be partly related from them being based in Colorado and I'm based in Colorado. Something like a model 50 or model 34.
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Jan 5, 2023 17:46
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StormDrain posted:OK I was just researching this as I have one to plumb in after I had to temporarily disconnect it. Thanks! Lines up with a lot of what I was thinking (though now I know I'm looking for a "hose connection vacuum breaker" for the outdoor spigots). I get that the anti-siphon valve should be higher than the highest irrigation head, even if I didn't know why just because the manuals I found just required it. Unfortunately I can't raise them 6 feet realistically so I think I need an RPZ (which is where the plumbers who all not looking for small projects come in)? So in the meantime while I wait for the final fix, after trying to put some thought and reason into how to minimize the risk while I wait, so I was hoping I can just keep the zone valves closed. The only pressure past the anti-siphon valve would basically just be the weight of the water remaining in the line, which would wear out and probably break the vacuum breaker, but you answered what I was trying to figure out in that the backpressure risk is only when the valve is open (ie: low pressure or a siphon wouldn't somehow break or pull water through the closed valve). PageMaster fucked around with this message at 03:45 on Jan 6, 2023 |
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Jan 6, 2023 03:42
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If you really want to go down the rabbit hole, USC's research and Foundation for Cross-Connection Control and Hydraulic Research is considered the gold standard when it comes to back flow prevention, and often gets referenced by the likes of AWWA, ASME, etc., plus a lot of regulatory bodies. https://fccchr.usc.edu/introduction.html In residential applications, you also don't need to raise the anti-siphon/backflow assembly 6-ft; typically it's 12-18 inches above grade or the tallest outlet that is downstream of the assembly per code. However, one thing to note is that the anti-vacuum breaker that goes on a hose bibb, is a wear item that usually ends up needing replacement within a few years, otherwise you could see back pressure on it in a siphon event and it would migrate back upstream of the breaker. Also, as you probably saw, there are several types of anti-siphon and back flow assemblies, and the type of irrigation system you have, plus any other uses, downstream of the assembly is going to dictate what type you need. - If the only points downstream of the desired location of the back flow assembly are gravity-draining outlets, i.e. drip emitters, sprinkler heads, etc., then an Anti-Vacuum Breaker (AVB) is suitable. AVBs typically are designed so that there is nothing downstream that could cause any sustained back pressure or sudden back pressure spikes, such as valves, spigots, etc. - if the only points downstream are the above-mentioned gravity draining outlets, and valves in between the assembly and said outlets (i.e. a control valve, check valve, etc.), then you can go with a Pressure Vacuum Breaker (PVB), which are designed with some back pressure in mind; the drop across the assembly means that the downstream pressure is less than the upstream supply, and as the irrigation system shuts off, the pressure further drops downstream, but there is still some pressure. - If you do have anything downstream of the assembly that could cause elevated back pressure or see a transient event back, such as a quick-closing valve, hose bibbs, booster pumps (such as used for ponds, etc.), misters, etc., then you'll want to probably go the RPZ route. RPZs are usually more flexible in how they can be installed, including height above grade; primarily you want to make sure they can't be submerged, similar to the AVB and PVB, because intrusion could occur at the test cocks. - There's other types (double check valve assemblies, etc.) that you could look into, but it'd be massive overkill. Also, from a purely engineering standpoint, an "anti siphon" risk is always present downstream of these assemblies, regardless of whether any downstream control valves, etc., are closed, because the assumption used in their design is that the environment downstream of the back flow assembly could allow migration up to the point of the assembly. While for residential irrigation purposes this is very conservative typically, the main concern they have are situations where hose bibbs come off the line downstream of an assembly, because there were a number of instances in the 1980s and 1990s where people using the hose-attached pesticide/herbicide sprayers caused cross contamination to not only their home but the local residents as well, due to incorrect/poorly-maintained back flow equipment.
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Jan 7, 2023 04:12
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How difficult is it to DIY replacement of 2 50gal water heaters? exterior well pump (2HP) for lawn? I've never done anything bigger than clogged drains, shower heads, sink drains. That said: Are the Hybrid Water Heaters like the Rheem HPWH at HD any good? (my current hot water heater is 6yr old) This is also in the hallway utility closet, How hard to lift 50 gal tank up 3' to clear a AC blower stand and set it down gently? hire a plumber to blow their back out instead?
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Jan 7, 2023 06:38
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Dr. Jackal posted:
I have one, have had for a year or more now. It works well, we have a family of 3 and I've never run out of hot water. It's in a well ventilated basement next to my furnace. It comes with wifi connectivity and an app but both kind of suck and I disabled it so my water heater doesn't get bricked by a bad update. They are pretty heavy and the way the plumbing is located is slightly different than a standard water heater. There is two models, one requires a slightly larger amperage circuit for a larger backup heat if the pump goes down.
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Jan 7, 2023 15:08
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SourKraut posted:If you really want to go down the rabbit hole, USC's research and Foundation for Cross-Connection Control and Hydraulic Research is considered the gold standard when it comes to back flow prevention, and often gets referenced by the likes of AWWA, ASME, etc., plus a lot of regulatory bodies. https://fccchr.usc.edu/introduction.html lots I'm still digging in on in your post and the link, but just wanted to say thanks for this writeup!
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Jan 8, 2023 04:55
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My toilet supply currently looks like this: Is there some kind of half escutcheon plate I could use to make it less ugly? Should I just get a standard one and cut it in half?
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Jan 10, 2023 20:52
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Comedy option, open the wall, redo the stub out 3” or so higher, and replace the shutoff that probably doesn’t shut off, then fix the trim and wall. They sell split escutcheons, you could probably use one and put some spacer behind the top half and no one would notice behind the toilet.
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Jan 10, 2023 21:37
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I'd prefer that to the way ours are done. All ours come up out of the floor  Like so:  Gonna be loads of fun when I'm tiling the bathroom floors next summer. I'd redo it, but 2/3 of the bathrooms have the toilet against an outside wall, which is why they're done this way I'm sure.
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Jan 11, 2023 03:58
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Somehow this is the only one coming out of the wall, the others come out of the floor. Takes up a lot of room in the vanity, but at least it's hidden there.
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Jan 11, 2023 04:11
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