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Deviant posted:this close to canceling my preorder of a prusa XL for a voron 300/350 I have an ender 3 S1 and am getting it all enclosed to start doing ABS... For some sort of voron. Having a hard time picking which. Trident 300 maybe?
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Jan 3, 2023 22:58
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ilkhan posted:Do it. If you have any question at all. Build a trident. That is almost always, the right answer. Never more than 350. 300 might be pushing it even.
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Jan 3, 2023 23:14
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If I didn't care about the toolchanging, I'd wait on the XL for sure.
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Jan 3, 2023 23:24
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Mr. Mercury posted:any idea if that's the initial batch or a new batch? ordered one late last year with the ship date listed as dec 30th and no tracking number or anything; really hope it just isn't delayed indefinitely I don't know if this will make you feel better but when I ordered my Neptune 3 Pro, the estimated ship date was December 25th but it didn't ship until the 30th and is supposed to arrive tomorrow. Hopefully you'll get a tracking number in a few days here if it's anything like my order was.
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Jan 3, 2023 23:40
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The Eyes Have It posted:If I didn't care about the toolchanging, I'd wait on the XL for sure. Wait, what? I think you have that backwards.
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Jan 4, 2023 00:23
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Sagebrush posted:A toolchanger is objectively the correct way to do multi-filament extrusion, and I do yet not trust a new company over Prusa for a lab where reliability is a primary concern. I agree that an ATC is better, but between “thing I can buy now” and “Thing I can’t buy now” The option is pretty simple. A good friend of mine picked up a second one instead of another Markforged, it’s a quality machine with sound being the only real complaint.
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Jan 4, 2023 01:14
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Sagebrush posted:A toolchanger is objectively the correct way to do multi-filament extrusion, and I do yet not trust a new company over Prusa for a lab where reliability is a primary concern. Or measuring the power/intensity of the returned bounce rather than any raw timing.
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Jan 4, 2023 01:18
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sharkytm posted:Wait, what? I think you have that backwards. I mean that if I didn't care about toolchanging, I'd pass on the XL in favor of spending the money on eg Bambu. Toolchanging is the big thing the XL boasts over other options, and what's worth waiting another month or two or whatever.
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Jan 4, 2023 01:45
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Unperson_47 posted:I don't know if this will make you feel better but when I ordered my Neptune 3 Pro, the estimated ship date was December 25th but it didn't ship until the 30th and is supposed to arrive tomorrow. Hopefully you'll get a tracking number in a few days here if it's anything like my order was. Ahh yeah Canada is a big ol bucket of ¯\(°_o)/¯ I know we allegedly have a warehouse here but who knows
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Jan 4, 2023 03:20
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Anyone in southern Ontario want an Ender S1 laser engraving attachment? Gonna post it discounted because I don't want to blind my kids.
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Jan 4, 2023 05:38
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My Neptune Pro 3 arrived today and I love it. Works great out of the box. I had a lot of trouble with my anycubic Kobra. Probably user error and my attempts to get it working better probably just broke it, but it wouldn't feed new filament and the first layer was way out of level at the edges and it would click constantly no matter what I did. Doing the medium sized print now on the Neptune, will do a big one tomorrow.
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Jan 4, 2023 07:40
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NewFatMike posted:Kinda hard to think of getting a Prusa XL when the Bambulab X1 Carbon is right there. Lol they really named it X1 Carbon, I wonder what Lenovo thinks about that.
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Jan 4, 2023 11:12
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Anyone wanna share their table setups they have their printers on? I had my printers out on my big sturdy as gently caress workbench in the garage but decided to move them back into my man cave room and the Lack tables aren't cutting it anymore since the Voron moves like a mother and the P1P that's on its way will be similar, so I need something pretty sturdy, preferably with some shelves and won't look too out of place in a room in my house. Something like this, I’ve asked the person who posted this but they haven’t responded yet. https://imgur.com/xRP3r1v
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Jan 4, 2023 16:22
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I'm having a bit of trouble with my printer. I just installed the Spider hot end with a .4 nozzle on my Ender 3 and now I'm getting textured prints that have an almost bead like appearance when putting down the first layer; shown on the bottom of this N64 N. Brand new roll of Inland PLA at 220° on a 65° bed I was already using a .4 nozzle and I didn't change any settings besides readjusting the Esteps and z offset, but it's like it's either not putting out enough filament or it's trying to push too much through and it blobs out? I'm not 100% sure what's happening, so I'm not sure what I'm supposed to tweak to make this stop happening
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Jan 4, 2023 16:30
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I'm printing a file at 200% with a lot of pieces including simple hinges. The tolerances are ending up especially loose, as I think the original file had them pretty generous even at 100%. Is there any fix for this that isn't "modify each file individually in CAD"?
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Jan 4, 2023 17:36
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Last printer I set up I used an IKEA BROR shelf, which has an option for plywood shelf units. Plywood shelf, generous spacing to make a print area. Layer of closed cell foam on the plywood, printer sits on some tiles. White LED light strip inside the print area. Close the sides up with whatever you want: cardboard etc. Worked pretty good, and succeeded at the most important part: reduce wasted space above & below the printer itself.
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Jan 4, 2023 18:27
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parabolic posted:I'm printing a file at 200% with a lot of pieces including simple hinges. The tolerances are ending up especially loose, as I think the original file had them pretty generous even at 100%. Is there any fix for this that isn't "modify each file individually in CAD"? This may not work at all for your print and I'm not sure which Slicers have this function, but in SuperSlicer (expert settings enabled) there is "Print Settings -> Slicing -> Vertical Hole shrinking compensation".
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Jan 4, 2023 18:54
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mattfl posted:Anyone wanna share their table setups they have their printers on? I had my printers out on my big sturdy as gently caress workbench in the garage but decided to move them back into my man cave room and the Lack tables aren't cutting it anymore since the Voron moves like a mother and the P1P that's on its way will be similar, so I need something pretty sturdy, preferably with some shelves and won't look too out of place in a room in my house. Something like this, I’ve asked the person who posted this but they haven’t responded yet. No pix, but I originally got one of the Harbor Fright workbenches so I could park the printer there and still do other stuff... turns out the printer sucked up more space than I wanted, so I hit the local habitat For Humanity salvage store, got a really solid cabinet that I barely got into the van/back out of the van/down the stairs, but it's now a dedicated printer home, with enough space in the enclosed part that I could probably stuff 30 boxed filament spools or maybe more. Used and a bit ugly, but that matches the current owwner.  Big workbench was something a bit over a hundred, IIRC, and the cabinet was about $30-35, I think.
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Jan 4, 2023 19:03
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So I have mostly been printing with Anycubic Eco resin, and have probably printed 35 bottles or so worth of stuff. I assumed most resins were pretty similar but I just tried some Sunlu ABS like resin after getting a little frustrated with some fragile bits for 32mm scale miniatures (I mostly print bigger things) and was surprised how different the end product feels. The Sunlu ABS doesn't seem to have a strong odor either, but it is hard to tell since I am always using a respirator.
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Jan 4, 2023 19:19
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Rexxed posted:Josef is printing busts of himself on each one before shipping. I'm sure there's been supply chain issues and development issues but it does seem very long for a product they wanted to launch in 2020 or 2021, IIRC. There is a camera on the XL that verifies that the bust is displayed in the room the XL is present in before it will print. I'm waiting too  Sweet sweet multi toolhead will be mine...maybe...someday...I'm using my time to be indecisive about 2 or 5 toolheads... I can definitely see the need for 3 pretty easily but it's so hard to justify the 4th and 5th.
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Jan 4, 2023 19:45
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Finally looking into delayed G-Codes on Klipper. They keep executing when the printer is PAUSE'd, which is neat. So I can create a sequence of delayed G-Codes and co-opt PAUSE/RESUME as semaphore within the G-Code file to print, and make my huge macro'd START_PRINT sequence abortable without doing an emergency stop. Yay! 
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Jan 4, 2023 19:48
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Prefect Six posted:I just picked up an Elegoo Mars 2 Pro and had some issues with Chitubox slicing software. I couldn't get the free version to hollow and infill, but the pro version would (on a 7-day trial). Is the Pro version worth it? $170/yr isn't the end of the world, but the free version would so far otherwise be just fine if it actually worked. Does Lychee work ok with Elegoo printers? IMO no. If you're going to subscribe to a slicer, I'd subscribe to Lychee. E: Reason being it's a LOT cheaper, and better supported - not that Chituslicer is bad. The Chitubox dev team is responsive with issues, but they are slower in terms of updates and new features. The lychee team is incredibly prolific. E: E: Which reminds me, I have to cancel the Chituslicer auto renewal before I forget and get charged.  E: E: E: hey, they don't auto-renew, so a point to Chitu I suppose Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 19:58 on Jan 4, 2023 |
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Jan 4, 2023 19:51
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Here's a dumb question: Where could I find out what material, on either SLA or FDM, is the least affected by acetone? I'm working with a similar chemical compound in a lab setting (acetonitrile), and it's dissolving some of the plastic connectors I'm trying to use. I want to 3D print a replacement part, and I've got a design ready.
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Jan 4, 2023 20:46
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You could ask a polymer chemist to be sure, but for acetone resistance the best option of the reasonably common FDM filaments is probably nylon. Polypropylene or polyethylene should be even better, but they're very difficult to print. I've seen the filament for sale but I don't know of anyone who uses it seriously. Super engineering plastics like PEEK should also work very well but they're very hard to print and super expensive to boot. SLA resins are likely not a good choice. Acetone is a decent solvent for acrylates, which are a major component of most SLA resins. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Jan 4, 2023 |
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Jan 4, 2023 21:15
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Yeah, I think I'm just going to have to order a 100x pack of this part that I need 1x of, to get it in the right material. Thanks.
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Jan 4, 2023 22:39
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I mean if you have access to a printer that can do nylon I'd at least try it that way first. Depending on how expensive these fittings are, it might even be cheaper to order a one-off from Shapeways.
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Jan 4, 2023 23:02
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The SDS for it indicates to avoid plastics as a packaging container, so I would imagine that would eliminate almost all FDM printing, as they are all different types of plastics, correct? Or material impregnated in a type of plastic? Depending on the complexity of the part, could you cast a mold of the part with a 3d print and then make one out of metal or glass? https://www.labchem.com/tools/msds/msds/LC10460.pdf
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Jan 4, 2023 23:14
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Prefect Six posted:I just picked up an Elegoo Mars 2 Pro and had some issues with Chitubox slicing software. I couldn't get the free version to hollow and infill, but the pro version would (on a 7-day trial). Is the Pro version worth it? $170/yr isn't the end of the world, but the free version would so far otherwise be just fine if it actually worked. Does Lychee work ok with Elegoo printers? The free version of Chitubox should do both of those things without any fuss. Did it give you some kind of error message, or did it just not work? 
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Jan 4, 2023 23:19
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Bobulus posted:Yeah, I think I'm just going to have to order a 100x pack of this part that I need 1x of, to get it in the right material. Actually wait, are you saying you can buy these fittings already made from a plastic that is specially rated for acetonitrile? What are they made from? Maybe you can print it.
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Jan 4, 2023 23:26
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It might come down to cost/benefit and risk tolerance decisions, making the price premium worth the assurances. It might be a bit more expensive to buy the 100 pack of this particular part, but from that SDS it sounds like some funky stuff with the risk of highly flammable and corrosive material being places it shouldn't be. Sometimes it's best to pay a little bit more to stick with the official channels and be assured by someone else that Thing X will do Y and not let Z happen.
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Jan 4, 2023 23:36
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You may also have luck looking at Photography suppliers because I believe that chemical is used in photo developer.
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Jan 4, 2023 23:42
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Sagebrush posted:Actually wait, are you saying you can buy these fittings already made from a plastic that is specially rated for acetonitrile? What are they made from? Maybe you can print it. I found a chemical compatibility guide for labs (https://tools.thermofisher.com/content/sfs/brochures/D20480.pdf) that says that polyethylene or polypropylene hold up well to acetonitrile. I can order the bits I want in polypropylene, and it's a hundred pack for 30 bucks. That's the range where buying a spool of nylon filament would probably cost just as much.
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Jan 4, 2023 23:47
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When I worked in radiological controls we used polyethylene bags for our radioactive waste. Big bright yellow bags. We would also store some mixed wastes (Hazardous AND radioactive waste) in those bags, so I imagine the material is pretty good!
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Jan 4, 2023 23:54
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Numinous posted:I'm using my time to be indecisive about 2 or 5 toolheads... I can definitely see the need for 3 pretty easily but it's so hard to justify the 4th and 5th. 5. I suggest that unless you know you have a very specific desire to only print 1 filament and a support material, you'll want more. If the Palette on my Voron wasn't so wasteful, I'd have added another even for its warts, and I was literally just messaging a friend to say I really want another AMS for my X1C. It's possible to reduce the waste on a X1C with some clever use of variable infill in place of the purge tower.
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Jan 5, 2023 02:00
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Two colors of model material, clear model material, support material, flexible material. I can think of a zillion prints that could use all five of those.
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Jan 5, 2023 02:16
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Nerobro posted:If you have any question at all. Build a trident. That is almost always, the right answer. Never more than 350. 300 might be pushing it even. Why not a 2.4? and i suppose 350 probably is overkill, maybe i'll do a 2.4 300mm
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Jan 5, 2023 02:25
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Deviant posted:Why not a 2.4? and i suppose 350 probably is overkill, maybe i'll do a 2.4 300mm I'm still warring with myself on that same question. 300mm Trident and then a 350mm 2.4? v0.2 and then a 2.4? Just build a Trident and keep the S1P as a backup? 300mm is *just* enough for the biggest thing I currently want to print. ilkhan fucked around with this message at 03:48 on Jan 5, 2023 |
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Jan 5, 2023 03:44
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Got my Neptune 3 Pro yesterday and just now was able to find time to set it up. People on reddit say they are loud but mine is super quiet. Maybe I was just used to my loud grindy Davinci but this thing is silent to me. All I hear is the fan
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Jan 5, 2023 06:43
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Deviant posted:Why not a 2.4? and i suppose 350 probably is overkill, maybe i'll do a 2.4 300mm There's a lot of answers. First, lets talk about size. The bigger the printer, the more power it takes, and it.. becomes.. significant because of square cube law. Also, size becomes an issue, as once you get past 350mm you stop fitting thorugh normal doors, and that means disassmbly to move the thing. A 350mm bed will take a 650watt heater... And then you're heating a chamber that has a lot more area to leak heat from. A 300w takes a 450watt. OK, why a trident? The gantry is more rigid. It's the same gantry as a 2.X but instead of floating on belts, it's attached to the frame. It also means the gantry is supported, and doesn't move with heat like can happen on a V2. The Trident also prints "at the top of the chamber" which means your printing, the print drops out of the heat, so the active printing is done in the same temperature throughout the print. The 2.x prints at the bottom so it's at the cool end of the chamber during most of the print. Oh, and the Trident is cheaper. The Trident uses one less stepper, which leaves you another driver for soemthing like an ERCF, or just a spare in case something goes awry. "why go 2.4?" Well.. if you're printing something heavy, sure? Like several kilograms. It makes sense. If you're running TAP, it's gonna be easier. If wanna watch the gantry dance? Sure. If, for some reason you can't get leadscrews?
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Jan 5, 2023 16:37
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Currently building Tridents right now. I've built 2.4s in the past. Never building another 2.4 again if I can avoid it. Trident forever. Trident is life.
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Jan 5, 2023 17:22
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