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w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

NewFatMike posted:

Formlabs just announced one that looks pretty promising.

God drat dude this thing is sick as . Form lab printers needs specific resin etc though don't they?

I'd love a solution like this, but being locked into extremely expensive printers/resin/software would really kill my margins. Not sure miniatures would handle being dumped into a big bin either


E:form auto, 3.4k for automation portion, form 3 is another 3.7k minimum, and the size of a mars... I'm not sure how that price holds up vs just hiring a guy to watch some cheap printers all day

Everything I've read on automation for resin really starts to fall apart unless your printing stuff that's really short. Even their example is basically printing teeth all day. On an 8+ hour print it's going to take a very long time to justify spending 3.5k per printer (+ an almost 4k printer)

w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 23:42 on Jan 6, 2023

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IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





I would say for 3k you could buy 10 mid size/priced resin printers, put 10 plates of stuff on them, then come back and check in on em in 8 hours or whatever and it would be more or less cost effective. The automation portion seems like it only really gets the model off the build plate and starts the next one, so you would need to be there in person anyway. Heck, if we look at it as 6k for the printer and automation thing, then you could buy 20 printers and then just run one plate of them a day and the output would probably be as much as the formlabs one. The formlabs resin is also wicked expensive, and would prevent you from changing resin to whatever is most cost effective.

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums
You CAN use other resins in Formlabs printers (for example, ApplyLabWork has compatible resins) but in my experience the best results have always come from their house brand stuff (unsurprisingly). Also, losing time/money because of print failures, having to futz with calibrating, or needing reprint/rework is just not something that happens with Formlabs the way it can with other stuff. Their poo poo is solid.

But they are expensive machines, and the resin is super spendy.

Nigh-impossible to justify the cost of Formlabs for hobbyist work, and even for pro work I frankly bust it out only when I need something absolutely only it can do (they have a lot of specialty resins that do exactly what they say on the box.)

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Yeah Formlabs use proprietary resins, but I’ve never had a failure on them. They’re really exceptionally good, and price/unit is very inexpensive for nearly all prints.

There is also the Formlabs 3L which is quite large, but that machine is $10k on its own.

There are also resellers for Formlabs, and you can probably score some promos or discounts and financing if you’re using the machines for professional purposes. The local one in Chicago is fantastic, and being able to drive by to pick up resin is :discourse:

FWIW, the reason they’re printing teeth is because dental is a massive customer section of resin printing.

I don’t know if Preform yet supports NURBS files, but if it does an advantage to SLA is that you can get true arcs instead of interpolated line to line polygons.

Odoyle
Sep 9, 2003
Odoyle Rules!
For whomever was looking for a cheap 350x350 printer, I’ve bought two “broken” printers from TradePort Direct on eBay and it looks like they just got a pallet in. There’s like four Ender 5 Plus models in their newly listed items. I’m looking for a cheap Ender 3 for my parents’ home.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

NewFatMike posted:

Yeah Formlabs use proprietary resins, but I’ve never had a failure on them. They’re really exceptionally good, and price/unit is very inexpensive for nearly all prints.

There is also the Formlabs 3L which is quite large, but that machine is $10k on its own.

There are also resellers for Formlabs, and you can probably score some promos or discounts and financing if you’re using the machines for professional purposes. The local one in Chicago is fantastic, and being able to drive by to pick up resin is :discourse:

FWIW, the reason they’re printing teeth is because dental is a massive customer section of resin printing.

I don’t know if Preform yet supports NURBS files, but if it does an advantage to SLA is that you can get true arcs instead of interpolated line to line polygons.

If I were a dental guy or print farm for large engineering firms I'd 100% go for this, But this isn't really the sort of automated solution that would work for 99% of the resin nerds in this thread.

The math on automation like this only to rally works where you need to touch the plate 10 times in a day. A machine like this cranking out resin bases all day would actually rip, but that's a weird use case that doesn't come up for me.

I'm in a position to start buying nicer printers, but peoply and phrozen are much more in line with a reasonable high end model afaik.

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Sure, Ambrose Burnside asked about a 5-6 figure investment and that’s probably the least expensive entry point for an automated line.

Ethics_Gradient
May 5, 2015

Common misconception that; that fun is relaxing. If it is, you're not doing it right.
Any reason an Ender 3 might have a significantly variable z-offset between prints? I am trying to get a mate's working and have mostly got it, however you seem to have to manually set the z-offset with each print. The first one I did it was .1, the second one I had to up it to 1.0 to get a good first layer. The z-limit switch is secure (and anyways, I would think gravity would drag it down rather than push it up). They're at the same part of the bed, more or less.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
You're saving the value to EEPROM yeah?

SubNat
Nov 27, 2008

I don't suppose there's a place where you can just order swatches of filament material from the manufacturers?
It's always a bit obnoxious intending to print something with a color, you order the filament, and it's not what you'd hoped.
I see cubic has them, but that's about it.

I'll have to get into the habit of making swatches myself I guess whenever I get a new roll of something.
I guess I should really just look more into painting stuff myself so that I don't need to think about colors for the most part.

insta
Jan 28, 2009

Sagebrush posted:

as far as I can tell the ERCF is basically a (theoretically) more reliable version of the Prusa MMU2, which is a terrible way of doing multi-material printing even when it works.

Tool! Changing!

Give me a 4 tool toolchanger with an ERCF! Perimeter nozzle, loading and unloading while the bulk infill nozzle is running, and the support interface nozzle is preheating back up. Fourth tool has a little "happy birthday" chime from a cheap birthday card and plays at the end of every layer.


edit: despite years of therapy and working with the courtroom doll, i refuse to acknowledge TPU as a material for FDM.

insta fucked around with this message at 17:59 on Jan 7, 2023

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

insta posted:

edit: despite years of therapy and working with the courtroom doll, i refuse to acknowledge TPU as a material for FDM.

The doll was made of TPU wasn't it?

ilkhan
Oct 7, 2004

I LOVE Musk and his pro-first-amendment ways. X is the future.

SubNat posted:

I'll have to get into the habit of making swatches myself I guess whenever I get a new roll of something.
I guess I should really just look more into painting stuff myself so that I don't need to think about colors for the most part.
Generally you'd make your own. There are a ton of models to do so and organize them.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

NewFatMike posted:

Sure, Ambrose Burnside asked about a 5-6 figure investment and that’s probably the least expensive entry point for an automated line.

Oh for sure, from an engineering perspective this is on point.

Resin still feels like something that has a very limited scope for most things outside of the insane stuff ambrose does, and miniatures

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums
Neat, Polymaker released a CosPLA for cosplay stuff.

So what makes a PLA better for cosplay props? It's a PLA that is sand-able and more durable. They have two blends: one is better for sanding, the other is better for durability. (Both are superior in sandability/durability compared to regular PLA.)

https://us.polymaker.com/products/polylite-cospla

Ethics_Gradient
May 5, 2015

Common misconception that; that fun is relaxing. If it is, you're not doing it right.

NomNomNom posted:

You're saving the value to EEPROM yeah?

It's running stock firmware, so AFAIK there's not a way to do that, just adjust the z-offset at the start of the print. The first one I did after I relocated the physical z-stop switch gave me .1 as a good height, so I was just going to tell my mate to use that as a value... however the next print it was waay too close, and I had to back it off to 1.0, whereupon I was getting similar results to the first print.

snail
Sep 25, 2008

CHEESE!

tracecomplete posted:

https://twitter.com/3dpNero/status/1611453520443760643

https://twitter.com/3dpNero/status/1611455317727903745

This seems...suboptimal.

edit: apparently it's worse than that; he induced thermal runaway during print heat-up by loosening the thermistor

edit2: the P1P exhibits the same behavior. great!

https://twitter.com/3dpNero/status/1611748207628787719?s=20&t=RGj17Z86yWJYlcz1z3tOtg

https://blog.bambulab.com/thermal-runaway/

TL;DR it does, but the window is probably too large. It'll be changed.

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

Bought a new workbench today in anticipation of my P1P and AMS coming next week.



The Prusa will be gone and the AMS put in its place.

Bondematt
Jan 26, 2007

Not too stupid

Ethics_Gradient posted:

Any reason an Ender 3 might have a significantly variable z-offset between prints? I am trying to get a mate's working and have mostly got it, however you seem to have to manually set the z-offset with each print. The first one I did it was .1, the second one I had to up it to 1.0 to get a good first layer. The z-limit switch is secure (and anyways, I would think gravity would drag it down rather than push it up). They're at the same part of the bed, more or less.

For me this was an X gantry issue. Basically the right side wasn't moving freely, so while the left side of the X gantry was close, the right side would always be too high or low compared to the last print. I just did a full redo of the frame, and fiddled with the x gantry the way the videos show to get all the wheel more or less even on pressure.

1mm seems like a lot for backlash or a switch issue. I'd start with frame and make sure the Z lead screw is well coupled to the motor.

ilkhan
Oct 7, 2004

I LOVE Musk and his pro-first-amendment ways. X is the future.
Is TAP compatible with the Trident or no?

tracecomplete
Feb 26, 2017

snail posted:

TL;DR it does, but the window is probably too large. It'll be changed.

I saw that earlier and I winced. That blog post is really dismissive and doesn't take ownership of the fuckup--no apology, no acknowledgement of the risk of the device being sold. And it is a fuckup and it is risky; the hotend will happily go beyond ignition temperature of PLA before the three minute timer is hit. If there's any buildup on the nozzle or on the heat block, that's a nontrivial risk, and the lackadaisical well-actually-it's-fine attitude is off-putting. It makes me glad I didn't end up buying an X1C.

tracecomplete fucked around with this message at 00:02 on Jan 8, 2023

bird food bathtub
Aug 9, 2003

College Slice

The Eyes Have It posted:

Neat, Polymaker released a CosPLA for cosplay stuff.

So what makes a PLA better for cosplay props? It's a PLA that is sand-able and more durable. They have two blends: one is better for sanding, the other is better for durability. (Both are superior in sandability/durability compared to regular PLA.)

https://us.polymaker.com/products/polylite-cospla

I have always been super hesitant to sand or file resin, even cured resin. I've got no documented basis for this, just always been skeeved out by the idea of resin dust in my lungs. There are mitigation methods, and I may be completely wrong on the potential harms. I freely admit both of those.

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

PROCEED
I always wear a respirator when sanding resin models (both cast and 3D printed resin) as you definitely don't want that poo poo in your lungs. Wet sanding helps keep the dust down.

Mr. Mercury
Aug 13, 2021



Neptune 3 Pro came in, holy poo poo that was a fast/easy setup

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004

bird food bathtub posted:

I have always been super hesitant to sand or file resin, even cured resin. I've got no documented basis for this, just always been skeeved out by the idea of resin dust in my lungs. There are mitigation methods, and I may be completely wrong on the potential harms. I freely admit both of those.

Good news then, as this is PLA, not resin :v:

Agreed that you should always wet sand and/or wear a respirator when sanding resin, though, whether 3D printed or mold poured/cast.

jeff8472
Dec 28, 2000

He died from watch-in-ass disease

ilkhan posted:

Is TAP compatible with the Trident or no?

Yes

https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Tap

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums

bird food bathtub posted:

I have always been super hesitant to sand or file resin, even cured resin. I've got no documented basis for this, just always been skeeved out by the idea of resin dust in my lungs. There are mitigation methods, and I may be completely wrong on the potential harms. I freely admit both of those.

Just be like me and avoid sanding anything ever, problem no problem!

(As pointed out, the Polymaker stuff is filament not liquid resin. Normal PLA doesn't sand well, it kinda gets furry/fuzzy and doesn't sand nicely like ABS does. )

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

The Eyes Have It posted:

Just be like me and avoid sanding anything ever, problem no problem!

(As pointed out, the Polymaker stuff is filament not liquid resin. Normal PLA doesn't sand well, it kinda gets furry/fuzzy and doesn't sand nicely like ABS does. )

Normal PLA sands just fine. You need to work down to finer grit and then finish with a wet sand, it takes forever but normal PLA can be sanded smooth.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

Right, and when I'm sanding printed parts, I'd prefer that it doesn't take forever.

If that special filament prints like PLA but sands like ABS, it sounds like it's well worth the price if you do a lot of post-processing. I'm going to buy a spool and try it out.

Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 02:12 on Jan 8, 2023

Unperson_47
Oct 14, 2007



Mr. Mercury posted:

Neptune 3 Pro came in, holy poo poo that was a fast/easy setup

I was very appreciative of the fact they come with all the Allen wrenches you need for everything as well as a bonus SD card that hopefully has not installed spyware on my computer.

I'm an idiot and forgot to connect the right Z-axis stepper motor on mine. Didn't realize until late last night when I saw the connector just hanging in the breeze. Printer printed fine the entire time with it disconnected though. :shrug:

Mr. Mercury
Aug 13, 2021



Ahh yeah the instructions are... Lacking

But yeah, that belt on the z axis is a good idea just in case a motor dies!

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





I am really enjoying my Neptune 3 and getting good results from it really easily compared to my Anycubic Kobra. I don't know if it is the Kobras fault or mine though.

AlexDeGruven
Jun 29, 2007

Watch me pull my dongle out of this tiny box


insta posted:

edit: despite years of therapy and working with the courtroom doll, i refuse to acknowledge TPU as a material for FDM.

I print TPU on a mostly stock Ender 3v2 with a Bowden. AMA.

Bondematt
Jan 26, 2007

Not too stupid

AlexDeGruven posted:

I print TPU on a mostly stock Ender 3v2 with a Bowden. AMA.

Did you get to keep your sanity or does that go right out the window trying to tune for that?

tracecomplete
Feb 26, 2017

insta posted:

edit: despite years of therapy and working with the courtroom doll, i refuse to acknowledge TPU as a material for FDM.

my sv06 squirts bouncy stuff in defiance

canyoneer
Sep 13, 2005


I only have canyoneyes for you
TPU is an interesting material to print with because of the material's transition point.

It's the point where you transition from thinking that 3D printing is fun and begin to experience the most tedious parts of the hobby.

tracecomplete
Feb 26, 2017

95A seems pretty hard to screw up on any of my printers.

Softer than that, though, and I think I'd go special-order a Neptune 3 Pro for the task.

Dr. Fishopolis
Aug 31, 2004

ROBOT
TPU and bowden is usually crazytown, but direct drive with a half decent extruder is easy peasy. just don't expect supports or overhangs to work!

Mr. Mercury
Aug 13, 2021



I would love to make discs out of TPU, hoping the hype is real about the Neptune

Mr. Mercury fucked around with this message at 07:07 on Jan 8, 2023

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Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

Dr. Fishopolis posted:

TPU and bowden is usually crazytown, but direct drive with a half decent extruder is easy peasy. just don't expect supports or overhangs to work!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3VulaksxOio Works fine. Works fine for me too. Most TPU advice is just.. plain.. wrong.

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