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Just as a sanity check, would using one of these shelving units for 3 printers be stable enough to run all at once? Seems like a common print farm setup, not that I'm doing anything as high spec. Planning a simple concrete paver and eva foam interface to the shelf if that makes a difference, though I'm a little worried about how the foam will hold up long term to the wire shelves. And potentially stupid question but would storing other stuff on the bottom/top shelves introduce any complications or just be more mass to dampen any vibrations?
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# ? Jan 8, 2023 08:42 |
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# ? May 29, 2024 15:37 |
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wJ-hksaqNJI Voron V0.2 release video. TL;DR: Nearly an entirely new printer. Highlights: Mini Stealthburner -uses a better fan -better filament path, has lights -room for ERCF sensor -lighter than the Mini AB -Bowden head returns. -Cartriage mount for hot ends -20mm pancake versus 17mm stepper. Tophat latch, and hinge. Bottom cover. Display as part of defualt design. Sensorless X and Y. Z switch homes at bottom eliminating most of the configuration needed for the printer. Sensorless X and Y garuntees maximum head travel. ADXL mount New skirts parabolic posted:Just as a sanity check, would using one of these shelving units for 3 printers be stable enough to run all at once? Seems like a common print farm setup, not that I'm doing anything as high spec. Planning a simple concrete paver and eva foam interface to the shelf if that makes a difference, though I'm a little worried about how the foam will hold up long term to the wire shelves. Nope, it would be just fine.
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# ? Jan 8, 2023 08:52 |
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I’m about to get off my rear end and finally build an insulated enclosure for my Ender 5 Plus. Putting it inside a heated chamber is gonna make the BLTouch probe ineffective due to temperature affecting its Hall Effect sensor, so I started investigating ABL alternatives… Anybody here got experience with Klicky, specifically Unklicky? Seems real interesting. I bought a $9 kit that’s on the way. I plan to print ABS in it, but I’ve heard interesting things about ASA and have a spool from Polymaker out for delivery right now. How’s that stuff stick to Garolite?
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# ? Jan 8, 2023 18:00 |
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Nerobro posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wJ-hksaqNJI Any idea how easy it would be to move over to the new toolhead. Filament path is 1 really annoying thing with the 0.1
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# ? Jan 8, 2023 21:50 |
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To you goons with a Bambu with AMS, is it able to just move on to the next filament if one runs out? (Provided you allow it to, of course.) I feel like that would be a nice little value-added thing for me if I were to look at one, making it easier to use up the last bits of a spool before going over to the next one, or just using up multiple printing multiple items / things I'll be painting anyhow. But that brings me to the next question, can most spools actually run out without a catastrophic failure? I'm pretty sure some filaments are attached to the spool in a way that wouldn't let a printer pull it off the spool without trying to pull the entire spool. e: Goddamnit, someone posted some factorio belts I really want to print (https://www.printables.com/model/357203-factorio-transport-belts) But I still have a week+ of printing to do on my needler.
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# ? Jan 8, 2023 22:03 |
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SubNat posted:To you goons with a Bambu with AMS, is it able to just move on to the next filament if one runs out? (Provided you allow it to, of course.) I don’t have mine yet but I do know this is an option.
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# ? Jan 8, 2023 22:47 |
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w00tmonger posted:Any idea how easy it would be to move over to the new toolhead. Filament path is 1 really annoying thing with the 0.1 You're going to need to re-do the gantry, as the new toolhead is a bit bigger. It's not a huge deal, as long as your board does sensorless homing. Also, while you're at it, go to a bottom Z switch. It's two hours work? Maybe? I'd do it. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 03:42 on Jan 9, 2023 |
# ? Jan 9, 2023 03:32 |
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SubNat posted:To you goons with a Bambu with AMS, is it able to just move on to the next filament if one runs out? (Provided you allow it to, of course.) Holy poo poo I must print this
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# ? Jan 9, 2023 03:33 |
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w00tmonger posted:Any idea how easy it would be to move over to the new toolhead. Filament path is 1 really annoying thing with the 0.1 Look at the Mini-AS + Sharkfin. Should use all your stock hardware (maybe different screws) but it's an actual easy-to-service setup with some incredible pushing power. I can hit 22mm^3 on my V0 with a Dragonfly.
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# ? Jan 9, 2023 05:09 |
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what in the robo rally and fine i'll build a big trident. printed solid has the 300 kit.
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# ? Jan 9, 2023 05:19 |
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SubNat posted:To you goons with a Bambu with AMS, is it able to just move on to the next filament if one runs out? (Provided you allow it to, of course.) Yes and quality brands, yes. It does work very well. I've used it with ABS across multiple plate prints and it's just easy.
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# ? Jan 9, 2023 09:58 |
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Only complaint I have about the Neptune 3 Pro is that the overhead LED strip can't be controlled via GCODE. Would've been nice to be able to turn them on at the start of a print and turn them off when it's complete. Can't really see myself using it if that's not possible. I could probably turn them off and on via GPIO with the Raspberry Pi but that's more trouble than I want to bother with right now. Also this is a really dumb one but you can turn the backlight brightness of the display all the way down until the screen is completely off with the slider in the settings and you have to fumble around trying to find the slider again. Unperson_47 fucked around with this message at 11:06 on Jan 9, 2023 |
# ? Jan 9, 2023 10:29 |
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Deviant posted:what in the robo rally What does the printed solid kit get you that a kit from say Formbot does not? It's a massive cost difference. I'm asking because I'm voron curious. In other news I just finished tricking out my ender 3 with a biqu h2 extruder. Almost shot myself in the foot because the mount I had printed before starting the upgrade didn't quite fit. Was able to get it on the gantry with one m3 and a zip tie and slowly print the correct mount. PETG has been a royal bitch to dial in Very sensitive to minute changes in retraction, pressure advance, z hop, temperature. Anyone have a bulletproof cura profile for a direct drive 0.6 nozzle?
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# ? Jan 9, 2023 12:49 |
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NomNomNom posted:What does the printed solid kit get you that a kit from say Formbot does not? It's a massive cost difference. I'm asking because I'm voron curious.
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# ? Jan 9, 2023 13:00 |
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So my pile of shame has gotten to the point where I need to force myself to print less and paint more. Any advice for mothballing a resin printer? I've drained the vat as much as I can but it still has some resin in there. I don't want to start swabbing it out with a paper towel or something but I'm at a loss of how to really clean the vat for storage.
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# ? Jan 9, 2023 15:30 |
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Pour about a quarter inch of alcohol in the vat and swish it around for a while to dissolve all the leftover resin. Dump that out, rinse it again with clean alcohol, then let it air dry. That's good enough. Ideally don't use paper towels (they scratch things) but if you have a clean soft microfiber cloth, like the ones that come with eyeglasses, you can use that to wipe it down after the alcohol if you like.
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# ? Jan 9, 2023 15:40 |
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bird food bathtub posted:So my pile of shame has gotten to the point where I need to force myself to print less and paint more. Any advice for mothballing a resin printer? I've drained the vat as much as I can but it still has some resin in there. I don't want to start swabbing it out with a paper towel or something but I'm at a loss of how to really clean the vat for storage. My routine for cleaning a vat out (whether it's going into storage or not) is something like this: 1. Drain resin completely, either back into the bottle it came out of or a spare bottle I kept for that purpose, using a little silicone "squeegee" to help get all of it out without scratching the FEP, and using a funnel and filter to catch any "chunks" of resin, just in case there were some from a failed print that might've been missed. 2. Use Sprayaway glass cleaner and blue "shop towels" (such as can be found in auto stores for cleaning cars; they won't potentially scratch the FEP like paper towels can) to clean the bulk of the leftover resin residue. I don't generally use straight IPA as it can fog up the FEP, except when checking for a potential leak. IPA has a lower surface tension than water which is helpful for quickly detecting leaks; if I suspect the FEP has a tear or puncture, I put a bunch of paper towels down on one of those silicone pet food mats that I use for post-processing prints, pour some IPA into the vat, and then see if the paper towels have any wet spots on 'em. 3. Once the vat is cleaned out completely, I'll flip it over and use a fresh shop towel and some non-ammonia Windex to clean the top of the LCD screen (which is covered with a screen protector) on the printer, the bottom of FEP on the vat, and then the FEP inside the vat, in that order (so as not to potentially contaminate the LCD or bottom of the FEP with resin residue I might have missed). I do this until the FEP is as clear as I can get it. 4. If I'm going to print some more, I'll replace the vat and then re-level the print bed (after making sure it's been thoroughly cleaned also) using the Flint Read method. Otherwise it's all set for storing away. 5. Dispose of the used shop towels or paper towels properly once you're all done.
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# ? Jan 9, 2023 15:53 |
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NomNomNom posted:What does the printed solid kit get you that a kit from say Formbot does not? It's a massive cost difference. I'm asking because I'm voron curious. i dont know, i've just dealt with PS before and they ship from the US and the whole thing seems very low bullshit. The LDO kit seems to have wiring set out of the box, and I'm reading this https://www.reddit.com/r/VORONDesign/comments/xzo15n/trident_formbot_vs_ldo_kit/ i'm listening though. Edit: The LDO kit is 300x300x300, the Formbot is only 250mm tall, this is a value add for me on cosplay parts. Deviant fucked around with this message at 15:59 on Jan 9, 2023 |
# ? Jan 9, 2023 15:57 |
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So I've been working on a go kart project, a kind of builders class called a cyclekart which is modeled after 1920s open wheel grand prix racers, scaled down and using a ~6.5hp harbor freight go kart engine Anyways this guy did what I'd been dreaming of: printing the body, which is the hardest and most time consuming part Kind of looks like he's traded time working with tools in the garage for time working in the office working with cad cyclekart North America Facebook group posted:I teased the 3D printed Cyclekart body here before but now i'm getting really excited about it again as parts are finally rolling off the printer!! Most karts (including my first) got built frame first, but I realized BODY first was going to be the way to go with this project! Mostly interesting because this is the first "real scale" car body printing stuff I've seen any kind of real detail
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# ? Jan 9, 2023 16:16 |
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snail posted:Yes and quality brands, yes. It does work very well. I've used it with ABS across multiple plate prints and it's just easy. Sweet. That honestly makes a Bambu with the AMS so much more tempting to me, oddly enough. Lossy multimaterial printing is one thing, but being able to smoothly pop from one near-empty spool to the next sounds lovely.
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# ? Jan 9, 2023 16:20 |
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Sydney Bottocks posted:I don't generally use straight IPA as it can fog up the FEP Any chance I could bother you for more details on this? I was going to go home and dump IPA in my tank like suggested above.
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# ? Jan 9, 2023 16:53 |
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Bondematt posted:Did you get to keep your sanity or does that go right out the window trying to tune for that? You have to have it to lose it. Maybe that helped?
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# ? Jan 9, 2023 16:56 |
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bird food bathtub posted:Any chance I could bother you for more details on this? I was going to go home and dump IPA in my tank like suggested above. I don't know the exact chemical reasons why it does, but I've both read about and experienced regular IPA fogging up the FEP film. I don't think it ruins the FEP or anything but it might make it so you have to up your exposure times a bit. I should add that this is during the cleaning process, so maybe it's something with how it reacts with the resin when cleaning. I've done the leak test I mentioned before on a FEP that I'd cleaned using the process I described in my previous post, and it didn't seem to fog up then. I use the Sprayaway glass cleaner to clean the resin out of the tank. IIRC, it does have alcohol in it but it's nowhere near as strong as straight IPA; so while it fogs up the FEP a little, it's not nearly as bad, and the non-ammonia version of Windex seems to do the job in getting it nice and transparent again afterwards.
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# ? Jan 9, 2023 18:06 |
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parabolic posted:Just as a sanity check, would using one of these shelving units for 3 printers be stable enough to run all at once? Seems like a common print farm setup, not that I'm doing anything as high spec. Planning a simple concrete paver and eva foam interface to the shelf if that makes a difference, though I'm a little worried about how the foam will hold up long term to the wire shelves. Before I lug this thing home from the store, would storing things on the top shelf be a bad idea in terms of fire safety? I like the idea of more storage space but not if putting filament up there moves it a couple feet closer in the event of an electrical issue. Should I just go with a big workbench/table or am I being paranoid? The room has a smoke detector and I'm around but I don't have like a passive fire suppression setup or anything (and frankly hope I don't need one).
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# ? Jan 9, 2023 23:01 |
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It's fine. 3D printers don't actually emit that much heat. As long as the things you're storing on top aren't, like, balls of cotton wadding that could fall down and land on the hotend, there is no real concern.
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# ? Jan 9, 2023 23:06 |
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parabolic posted:Before I lug this thing home from the store, would storing things on the top shelf be a bad idea in terms of fire safety? I like the idea of more storage space but not if putting filament up there moves it a couple feet closer in the event of an electrical issue. Should I just go with a big workbench/table or am I being paranoid? The room has a smoke detector and I'm around but I don't have like a passive fire suppression setup or anything (and frankly hope I don't need one). Might be worth looking into as another level of fail safe
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# ? Jan 9, 2023 23:08 |
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You could also line the shelves above the 3D printers with something fire-resistant, like a piece of cement board or some sheet metal.
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# ? Jan 10, 2023 01:16 |
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I built my new Neptune 2S on Friday evening, then played around with it a bit over the weekend which leads to a few questions: 1. On the Buddha test print, it will extrude a line of filament along the length of the left side of the build plate before extruding another perimeter line around the model. With the models I've sliced in Prusa, it only prints the perimeter line, which sometimes isn't enough to get the filament flowing on smaller prints. Is there a way to have Prusa tell the printer to print two long lines the length of the bed before going to the model, or should I just change the settings so it prints 2 or 3 lines around the perimeter before starting the model? 2. I started a print yesterday that finished up around 11pm. I checked on it at 7am and it finished fine, but I noticed the bed was still being heated. Is there a way to turn off the bed heater once the print is finished? 3. During a print, I can go into the options and adjust things like temps and cooling fan speed. The temp adjustments seem to work fine, but the cooling fan adjustments don't seem to do anything. It is just on at 100% (255) all the time. Am I doing something wrong? 4. The Buddha test prints came out fantastic. Does anybody know what slicer/profile/settings Elegoo used to slice that model before including it on the USB stick with the printer?
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# ? Jan 10, 2023 01:48 |
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SkunkDuster posted:
The USB stick that came with my Neptune 3 Pro had a build of Cura on it and some profiles. Maybe yours came with something similar? edit: Looks like I was misunderstanding. Elegoo has their own profiles locked up in that included Cura build so that's of no use. I've never used it so I didn't know that. I've just used profiles from here for Cura and PrusaSlicer has them built-in. edit2: I haven't used Cura in a while so I just tried it out and the exported GCode file doesn't have a preview of the print as the icon like PrusaSlicer exports. Is there a setting for this because it's pretty handy. Unperson_47 fucked around with this message at 03:16 on Jan 10, 2023 |
# ? Jan 10, 2023 02:02 |
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1. You gotta change your start g-code in the slicer. The PrusaSlicer default start code should have a short purge line right at the beginning. It's this:code:
code:
2. Your end g-code should have these four lines in it: code:
4. Not me!
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# ? Jan 10, 2023 02:08 |
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parabolic posted:Just as a sanity check, would using one of these shelving units for 3 printers be stable enough to run all at once? Seems like a common print farm setup, not that I'm doing anything as high spec. Planning a simple concrete paver and eva foam interface to the shelf if that makes a difference, though I'm a little worried about how the foam will hold up long term to the wire shelves. I would not store things on top of a 3d printer with wire shelving. There's a chance something will slip through the wire and jam and cause (a highly unlikely) a cascade effect of problems. If you put a permanent solid piece of wood on top, then sure
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# ? Jan 10, 2023 02:18 |
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Sagebrush posted:1. You gotta change your start g-code in the slicer. The PrusaSlicer default start code should have a short purge line right at the beginning. It's this: 1. I'm not seeing that in the code. Aside from changing the bed size, temps, and infill type, and setting the profile to Neptune 2, I haven't messed with anything else in the default prusa settings that I can think of. 2. I'm missing the heatbed line. 3. The fan is on 100% at all times no matter how long I wait. My current print has been running for over 2 hours with the fan set to 0 and it is still running full blast. I checked the slicer settings and I do have the auto cooling option checked, so that may be overriding things. Here is a link to the gcode of the currrent print if that will give any insights. I hand coded websites in HTML 3.0 in the mid 90s, wrote code for Arduino, and scripts for Autoit. I'm not completely ignorant when it comes to coding, but I am by no means fluent in any coding language. Gcode is new to me and I have a lot to learn. The annotations help quite a bit. https://www.skunkduster.com/Grocery_Handle.txt
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# ? Jan 10, 2023 03:28 |
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if my supports in a resin print arent actually attaching to the model, is that too low of an exposure? like they stop 1-2mm before making contact, resulting in some warping and stuff. im doing some calibration cones now but yeah
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# ? Jan 10, 2023 15:16 |
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I keep getting instances where one limb or the other of a human shaped model will just not print. Everything after the limb will print, but the leg itself will just mysteriously be absent. I can't tell if that's a support issue or if I should just not be trying to island it on top of supports in the first place and just stick the feet to the build plate on my M3.
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# ? Jan 10, 2023 17:23 |
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queeb posted:if my supports in a resin print arent actually attaching to the model, is that too low of an exposure? like they stop 1-2mm before making contact, resulting in some warping and stuff. im doing some calibration cones now but yeah I'd say the defining feature of this would be if it is every single support across the entire model, or only some specific supports. If supports are printing and connecting elsewhere on the model then the exposure time is working at least somewhere, so not likely to be off. Failed supports like that on a few specific points while still working elsewhere have in my experience been a result of model geometry bending/warping just enough during the very first layer where contact would have been made to sever the single point of contact available, with the resulting gap being the outcome of other portions of the model eventually providing enough support for the geometry to print but not perfectly.
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# ? Jan 10, 2023 18:01 |
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I got a new brand of resin (Sunlu ABS-like), had a couple flawless prints, then failure after failure. Some objects will print correctly, some will fall off their supports partway, and some the supports break after a couple mm. These are all OPR pre-supported minis, with extra supports for islands from Lychee if needed. Cones of calibration comes out flawless. Resin temperature is ~75 F, FEP is fairly new, built plate has been leveled and re-leveled. Any other ideas?
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# ? Jan 10, 2023 18:15 |
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The Chairman posted:You could also line the shelves above the 3D printers with something fire-resistant, like a piece of cement board or some sheet metal. Even drywall. It's all rated for something like 35 minutes of direct fire. Also adding mass is good.
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# ? Jan 10, 2023 21:38 |
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Man I know auto supports are bad, but I ran a model through prusas auto orient and auto Sport and it honestly came out way better than lychees attempts. So needs sanity checks but man as a starting point I'm very impressed
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# ? Jan 10, 2023 23:46 |
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queeb posted:Man I know auto supports are bad, but I ran a model through prusas auto orient and auto Sport and it honestly came out way better than lychees attempts. So needs sanity checks but man as a starting point I'm very impressed Who says auto supports are bad? You probably don't want to rely on them 100% of the time for complex objects, but just as you've done there, there's absolutely nothing wrong with letting the machine do some (or a lot) of the work for you and then augmenting with manual placement. Acid Reflux fucked around with this message at 00:09 on Jan 11, 2023 |
# ? Jan 11, 2023 00:03 |
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# ? May 29, 2024 15:37 |
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Nobody says that lol Auto supports + tweaking is the way
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# ? Jan 11, 2023 00:04 |