parabolic posted:

Just as a sanity check, would using one of these shelving units for 3 printers be stable enough to run all at once? Seems like a common print farm setup, not that I'm doing anything as high spec. Planning a simple concrete paver and eva foam interface to the shelf if that makes a difference, though I'm a little worried about how the foam will hold up long term to the wire shelves.



And potentially stupid question but would storing other stuff on the bottom/top shelves introduce any complications or just be more mass to dampen any vibrations?

Nerobro posted:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wJ-hksaqNJI

Voron V0.2 release video.

SubNat posted:

To you goons with a Bambu with AMS, is it able to just move on to the next filament if one runs out? (Provided you allow it to, of course.)
I feel like that would be a nice little value-added thing for me if I were to look at one, making it easier to use up the last bits of a spool before going over to the next one, or just using up multiple printing multiple items / things I'll be painting

w00tmonger posted:

Any idea how easy it would be to move over to the new toolhead. Filament path is 1 really annoying thing with the 0.1

SubNat posted:

To you goons with a Bambu with AMS, is it able to just move on to the next filament if one runs out? (Provided you allow it to, of course.)
I feel like that would be a nice little value-added thing for me if I were to look at one, making it easier to use up the last bits of a spool before going over to the next one, or just using up multiple printing multiple items / things I'll be painting anyhow.

But that brings me to the next question, can most spools actually run out without a catastrophic failure? I'm pretty sure some filaments are attached to the spool in a way that wouldn't let a printer pull it off the spool without trying to pull the entire spool.

e: Goddamnit, someone posted some factorio belts I really want to print (https://www.printables.com/model/357203-factorio-transport-belts)

But I still have a week+ of printing to do on my needler.

w00tmonger posted:

Any idea how easy it would be to move over to the new toolhead. Filament path is 1 really annoying thing with the 0.1

SubNat posted:

SubNat posted:

To you goons with a Bambu with AMS, is it able to just move on to the next filament if one runs out? (Provided you allow it to, of course.)

But that brings me to the next question, can most spools actually run out without a catastrophic failure?

Deviant posted:

what in the robo rally

and fine i'll build a big trident. printed solid has the 300 kit.

NomNomNom posted:

What does the printed solid kit get you that a kit from say Formbot does not? It's a massive cost difference. I'm asking because I'm voron curious.

In other news I just finished tricking out my ender 3 with a biqu h2 extruder. Almost shot myself in the foot because the mount I had printed before starting the upgrade didn't quite fit. Was able to get it on the gantry with one m3 and a zip tie and slowly print the correct mount.


PETG has been a royal bitch to dial in


Very sensitive to minute changes in retraction, pressure advance, z hop, temperature. Anyone have a bulletproof cura profile for a direct drive 0.6 nozzle?

bird food bathtub posted:

So my pile of shame has gotten to the point where I need to force myself to print less and paint more. Any advice for mothballing a resin printer? I've drained the vat as much as I can but it still has some resin in there. I don't want to start swabbing it out with a paper towel or something but I'm at a loss of how to really clean the vat for storage.

NomNomNom posted:

What does the printed solid kit get you that a kit from say Formbot does not? It's a massive cost difference. I'm asking because I'm voron curious.

In other news I just finished tricking out my ender 3 with a biqu h2 extruder. Almost shot myself in the foot because the mount I had printed before starting the upgrade didn't quite fit. Was able to get it on the gantry with one m3 and a zip tie and slowly print the correct mount.


PETG has been a royal bitch to dial in


Very sensitive to minute changes in retraction, pressure advance, z hop, temperature. Anyone have a bulletproof cura profile for a direct drive 0.6 nozzle?

cyclekart North America Facebook group posted:

I teased the 3D printed Cyclekart body here before but now i'm getting really excited about it again as parts are finally rolling off the printer!! Most karts (including my first) got built frame first, but I realized BODY first was going to be the way to go with this project!

I custom built this behemoth to print cyclekart and car body pieces. It took about a year of improvements and troubleshooting before I could declare it "finished". It started as a Tronxy-X5SA-600 but all that is left of that is pretty much the frame.

The body file took quite a bit of processing. I bought a simple 3d model of an Auto Union Type D and went to work. First it was scaled correctly, then the body was stretched, sectioned, stretched, and reassembled to fit cyclekart proportions. Finally a bunch of interior details were removed and the STL cleaned up. It was broken in sections that fit the print bed (600mmX600mmX600mm) and alignment dowel cavities were added between all mating pieces. A metal frame was designed that would fit juuuust inside the lowest part of the body and 40 some mounting bosses were cut into the body file.

It's printing with a .6mm nozzle at .35mm resolution at 120mm/s. Each piece is about 40 hours.

Each of the dovetail halves you see here is a little over 2 rolls of filament, 8 or 9 pounds for the back assembly.

My plan is to get these plastic welded and epoxied together, get them primered and painted, and then epoxy coat the entire thing for strength and durability.

snail posted:

Yes and quality brands, yes. It does work very well. I've used it with ABS across multiple plate prints and it's just easy.

Sydney Bottocks posted:

I don't generally use straight IPA as it can fog up the FEP

Bondematt posted:

Did you get to keep your sanity or does that go right out the window trying to tune for that?

bird food bathtub posted:

Any chance I could bother you for more details on this? I was going to go home and dump IPA in my tank like suggested above.

parabolic posted:

Just as a sanity check, would using one of these shelving units for 3 printers be stable enough to run all at once? Seems like a common print farm setup, not that I'm doing anything as high spec. Planning a simple concrete paver and eva foam interface to the shelf if that makes a difference, though I'm a little worried about how the foam will hold up long term to the wire shelves.



And potentially stupid question but would storing other stuff on the bottom/top shelves introduce any complications or just be more mass to dampen any vibrations?

parabolic posted:

Before I lug this thing home from the store, would storing things on the top shelf be a bad idea in terms of fire safety? I like the idea of more storage space but not if putting filament up there moves it a couple feet closer in the event of an electrical issue. Should I just go with a big workbench/table or am I being paranoid? The room has a smoke detector and I'm around but I don't have like a passive fire suppression setup or anything (and frankly hope I don't need one).

SkunkDuster posted:

4. The Buddha test prints came out fantastic. Does anybody know what slicer/profile/settings Elegoo used to slice that model before including it on the USB stick with the printer?

parabolic posted:

Just as a sanity check, would using one of these shelving units for 3 printers be stable enough to run all at once? Seems like a common print farm setup, not that I'm doing anything as high spec. Planning a simple concrete paver and eva foam interface to the shelf if that makes a difference, though I'm a little worried about how the foam will hold up long term to the wire shelves.



And potentially stupid question but would storing other stuff on the bottom/top shelves introduce any complications or just be more mass to dampen any vibrations?

Sagebrush posted:

1. You gotta change your start g-code in the slicer. The PrusaSlicer default start code should have a short purge line right at the beginning. It's this:

code:

G1 Z0.2 F720
G1 Y-3 F1000 ; go outside print area
G92 E0
G1 X60 E9 F1000 ; intro line
G1 X100 E12.5 F1000 ; intro line

If you don't see that in your start code, add it in. If it's there but you aren't seeing a purge line, it's possible that your hotend is more drippy and the line just isn't long enough. In that case you can multiply the values for a longer line:

code:

G1 Z0.2 F720
G1 Y-3 F1000 ; go outside print area
G92 E0
G1 X120 E18 F1000 ; intro line
G1 X200 E25 F1000 ; intro line

That will double the length of the purge line to nearly the whole bottom of the bed.

2. Your end g-code should have these four lines in it:

code:

M104 S0 ; turn off temperature
M140 S0 ; turn off heatbed
M107 ; turn off fan
M84 ; disable motors

3. The fan adjustments don't usually respond immediately; sometimes it just inserts a fan speed command into the buffer so you have to wait for 63 command lines to be executed before the fan updates (etc). Or maybe your code is being generated with lots of fan speed commands that are overriding your last command. Hard to say without seeing the exact behavior.

4. Not me!

queeb posted:

if my supports in a resin print arent actually attaching to the model, is that too low of an exposure? like they stop 1-2mm before making contact, resulting in some warping and stuff. im doing some calibration cones now but yeah

The Chairman posted:

You could also line the shelves above the 3D printers with something fire-resistant, like a piece of cement board or some sheet metal.

queeb posted:

Man I know auto supports are bad, but I ran a model through prusas auto orient and auto Sport and it honestly came out way better than lychees attempts. So needs sanity checks but man as a starting point I'm very impressed