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I've got a wall that I want to clean up, fill in a few gouges in the drywall, screw holes etc and paint it. There s a coaxial cable coming out of the wall just above the baseboard. I want to put a co-ax face plate over it. I've got a one gang low voltage mounting bracket for it that I was going to stick in the wall and put the face plate on top of that, one of these things. Aside from: make sure I cut the hole straight/level, and don't cut in to the wall right on top of a stud, anyone got some tips or other advice to install this thing? There's a receptacle not too far away on the same wall, I figured I'd mount it at the same height so it doesn't look weird. Is there any reason that I would need to keep the low voltage wire/bracket a certain distance away from the higher voltage box? Or some reason I should keep them close together for that matter? Also behind this wall is someone else's unit so I don't have access from the back, and would try to minimize disturbance to any sound deadening or insulation between the two units.
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Jan 22, 2023 21:15
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| # ? May 29, 2024 00:33 |
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It’s just about feeezing here, so it’s natural to to get icy. It’s an older Daikin ducted system, don’t know the details on it except apparently there are complaints about the aggressive defrost cycle with these so I suspect it’s a little bit of suboptimal physical design patched over in firmware going on here. He’s on top of the regular maintenance and cleaning, so I was just doing some outside of the box thinking about improving performance before suggesting replacing the unit.
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Jan 22, 2023 21:34
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wesleywillis posted:I've got a wall that I want to clean up, fill in a few gouges in the drywall, screw holes etc and paint it. Just put furniture in front of it
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Jan 22, 2023 21:46
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yippee cahier posted:It’s just about feeezing here, so it’s natural to to get icy. It’s an older Daikin ducted system, don’t know the details on it except apparently there are complaints about the aggressive defrost cycle with these so I suspect it’s a little bit of suboptimal physical design patched over in firmware going on here. It is not "natural to get icy". It indicates broken or incorrectly configured defrost. If it had an "aggressive" defrost cycle this wouldn't be an issue. Or is the unit simply not rated to be running at 30F? Plenty are. That one might not be. Would be far form the first time someone ended up with a completely inappropriate HVAC system installed in their home.
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Jan 22, 2023 22:27
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I was curious what my unit was rated to because I never really cared, hitting 0C was pretty much good enough. Seems my Fujitsu AOU12RLFW1 is 5°F~75°F for outdoor ambient heating. Upper limit of 115°F for cooling, which I should label on the side of my indoor unit as we occasionally get days in excess of that. Found a Gree unit that claims -31°F ambient at 1.30 COP. Still better than a space heater. Mind blowing. I don't know what the 80°F DB / 67°F FWB means on page 4.) https://www.greecomfort.com/our-products/multi-plus-ultra/ https://www.greecomfort.com/assets/our-products/multi-plus-ultra/documents/multi-plus-ultra-submittal-42mbh-d.pdf
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Jan 22, 2023 22:50
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wesleywillis posted:I've got a wall that I want to clean up, fill in a few gouges in the drywall, screw holes etc and paint it. Those are basically what I used when I was a cable guy, they're pretty idiot proof. Distance shouldn't matter unless its really old wiring in there which could possibly cause some interference, but I wouldn't be too worried about it
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Jan 22, 2023 22:51
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wesleywillis posted:I've got a wall that I want to clean up, fill in a few gouges in the drywall, screw holes etc and paint it. Take the face plate off that electric outlet. Match the height of the new low voltage ring to the old box by the old box's bottom screw. Measure down to the baseboard or use a level. Put a piece of painter's tape on the wall. You can draw all you need to on that for height, width, spacing, etc. You can cut through it too, then it just peels off the wall once you're done, no erasing necessary. Also, pray you don't hit a water pipe. Sometimes I will bend some solid wire into an L, drill a tiny hole, then insert the L into that hole past its 90 degree point and spin it around to see if the wire touches anything where I'm about to cut. I don't like surprises. Note: this doesn't work with walls full of insulation, like between units. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 01:24 on Jan 23, 2023 |
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Jan 23, 2023 01:11
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H110Hawk posted:It sounds like you need to address the source of the dust more than filtration and vacuuming. What is causing such a build up, and are you actually capturing it when vacuuming or filtering? Are your windows open all the time? Attic dust coming through fixtures? Vacuum actually doesn't filter for poo poo? Air ducts in dire need of cleaning or are unsealed somewhere in the attic? Family of long haired cats and a dog with eczema? I came to ask a related question, actually. When I was a child and taught to dust, it was spraying a cloth with furniture polish and wiping flat surfaces. We have a lot of dust-accumulating surfaces that aren't wood -- dust piles up on the toilet paper holder, to give you some idea -- is there a known tool to handle this? Plain old dusters just circulate the dust back into the air, which isn't what I want.
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Jan 23, 2023 03:31
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Arsenic Lupin posted:There is no central heating/air conditioning, and no ducts. I suspect that's part of the problem; air circulation happens only through natural convection. Yes, we do keep the windows open, because we sleep with the windows open. We're next to a state park and the ocean, so there's a lot of pollen. You're right that I need to check with a doctor. I have no idea how to check whether a vacuum is filtering properly. Ours is some model of Shark. We have two cats, but I don't think they're what is producing the quite visible layer. Is the filter clean? Does it need changing? Are you emptying it regularly (ideally every time if it's bagless) Definitely look up and make sure it actually has a HEPA filter. If you're keeping your windows open 24/7, that's definitely going to introduce a bunch of dust, regardless of how many filters you have. quote:I came to ask a related question, actually. When I was a child and taught to dust, it was spraying a cloth with furniture polish and wiping flat surfaces. We have a lot of dust-accumulating surfaces that aren't wood -- dust piles up on the toilet paper holder, to give you some idea -- is there a known tool to handle this? Plain old dusters just circulate the dust back into the air, which isn't what I want. A vacuum w/ hose would be what you want here. Alternatively, damp microfiber for whatever it's safe on (pretty much anything)
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Jan 23, 2023 03:45
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Your windows and cats are it then. Do you have reliable air quality monitoring in your area? In socal I have SCAQMD which tells me "hosed" or "turbo hosed" or "actually so hosed that it is unbreathable." We use a shark as well, allegedly it's hepa but I don't know if I trust it. When you empty it sometime take it outside, put on a mask, empty the canister, then closely look at the contents and residue. Is there a lot of ultra fine pillowy soft dust in there or is it mostly larger grittier stuff? Rub the finest stuff you can find (walls of the canister) between your fingers. It should feel almost lubricious. Either way - if you are serious about being dust free you're going to need to close the windows, increase your filtration dramatically, or both. Unfortunately you're currently filtering the world and that isn't tenable as you see. I know I am a broken record here but those Austin air units are tanks. What is your air filter solution?
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Jan 23, 2023 05:53
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What kind of clean-out lid is this on the sewer line and can I open it once or twice a year to put root cleaner stuff in it? This is the basement floor.
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Jan 23, 2023 18:24
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I don't know what they're called, but just loosen the wing nut. That style has a rubber seal under that top plate and another plate on the back. Tightening it moves the plates close together/squeezes the seal so it expands in circumference. They eventually will dry out and crack, especially when you try to move them. So it might be a good idea to have an extra on hand. I'm sure that's just 4" PVC. So something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Oatey-33403-Plastic-Galvanized-4-Inch/dp/B000H5T1PI/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=4+inch+pvc+plug&qid=1674495298&sr=8-2
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Jan 23, 2023 18:35
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devicenull posted:Is the filter clean? Does it need changing? Are you emptying it regularly (ideally every time if it's bagless) Definitely look up and make sure it actually has a HEPA filter. H110Hawk posted:Your windows and cats are it then. Do you have reliable air quality monitoring in your area? In socal I have SCAQMD which tells me "hosed" or "turbo hosed" or "actually so hosed that it is unbreathable." Dust free is a wildly unlikely goal; I'd just like to be lower-dust. I have made a note of Austin air units, and they may be our best solution. I hear you about not being able to filter the world. Having a window open in the bedroom and running a filter is, now that you mention it, optimistic at best. However, we cannot keep all the windows closed, because we do want some fresh air coming in. e: Here's what the manufacturer (Shark DLX Navigator) says. "ANTI-ALLERGEN COMPLETE SEAL TECHNOLOGY: Works with a HEPA filter to trap dust and allergens inside the vacuum cleaner. " This is ... not super specific and I'm suspicious. What phrases would I look for to find a vacuum cleaner that is actually HEPA compliant? Arsenic Lupin fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Jan 23, 2023 |
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Jan 23, 2023 19:54
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We use a shark nv352. It works. I wouldn't worry about it too much given the open windows. If you are serious about dust control+fresh air adding ducted hvac with fresh air intake would, at considerable cost, solve your problems. You are at a basic point of inflection - which is more important to you, dust (which includes a decent amount of road pollution from PCH) or open windows? You can strike a balance but it's going to involve a lot less time with the windows open. It all is unfortunately going to come at a high absolute cost of dollars.
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Jan 23, 2023 20:15
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Arsenic Lupin posted:Oh, whoops! Did not know about changing a bagless filter every time. Will both check the model and have husband clean the filter. Ah sorry I meant the vacuum itself, not the filter. My parents let their bagless fill up to the point it's not able to work anymore. I've just gotten into the habit of emptying it every time. quote:e: Here's what the manufacturer (Shark DLX Navigator) says. "ANTI-ALLERGEN COMPLETE SEAL TECHNOLOGY: Works with a HEPA filter to trap dust and allergens inside the vacuum cleaner. " This is ... not super specific and I'm suspicious. What phrases would I look for to find a vacuum cleaner that is actually HEPA compliant? It's probably fine - but if you've never replaced the filter now might be a good time. Try to find the one direct from the manufacturer... the amazon ones can be suspect
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Jan 24, 2023 00:39
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I've got a house with a lot of asbestos in the paper lining on the drywall (under a bunch of layers of paint). How concerned should I be about drilling holes in it for things like mounting shelving/etc? Is this a 'yeah few holes aren't so bad, don't huff the dust' situation, or a 'literally any time you disturb it you need to be considering abatement' situation? We're planning on adding some wall mounted shelving to that room before doing a larger remodel we're already expecting to have to do full abatement for.
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Jan 24, 2023 03:21
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Won't kill you, but I still wouldn't do nothing. I would have a DustBuster running or at least a wet paper towel to catch it all. I would also wear an N95 if you have one around anyway
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Jan 24, 2023 03:33
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i like nice words
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Yeah wear a mask and run a hepa filtering vacuum (see those ones above?) right under your drill bit including when you pull the drill out of the hole. Suck out the hole, tap drill bit into vac hose to grab loose dust. Donzo. Emtpy can outside. All of that is just what I do because I loathe cleaning up drilling dust but it also mitigates airborne hazards from it.
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Jan 24, 2023 03:40
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H110Hawk posted:We use a shark nv352. It works. I wouldn't worry about it too much given the open windows. If you are serious about dust control+fresh air adding ducted hvac with fresh air intake would, at considerable cost, solve your problems. You are at a basic point of inflection - which is more important to you, dust (which includes a decent amount of road pollution from PCH) or open windows? You can strike a balance but it's going to involve a lot less time with the windows open. It all is unfortunately going to come at a high absolute cost of dollars. I feel like I'm sounding precious here. There are parts of the house I'm happy to rework. I just put in modern LED lights in the kitchen with a merry song in my heart. But a lot of the interior's character comes from the original 1931 millwork, and I'm not willing to compromise that. This same problem prevents me from modernizing the wiring. The panels are new, but the wiring in the wall is original. It is not run through straight-run clear spaces between the studs. It's knob-and-tube, and you couldn't pull new wire along the paths of the old wire because of the knobs. Basically, it's an old house, and it has quirks, and I knew that going in. I will adapt it to myself and myself to it, and I'll do what can be done cost-effectively to add comfort.
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Jan 24, 2023 05:01
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Arsenic Lupin posted:This same problem prevents me from modernizing the wiring. The panels are new, but the wiring in the wall is original. It is not run through straight-run clear spaces between the studs. It's knob-and-tube, and you couldn't pull new wire along the paths of the old wire because of the knobs. as someone else living in a house with lots of active knob and tube wiring, i'm curious how you got an electrician to upgrade the panel without insisting on rewiring the house to modern code, and also if you've had any issues with insurance providers complaining about the old wiring?
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Jan 24, 2023 05:20
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No I get it. I'm trying to sort of illustrate solutions or scale of the issue. High velocity hvac systems minimize that at minimum eyesore levels, ductless minisplits do it at a jump up in eyesoreness. The high velocity system is what my friend with a 1900ish original house in his city is installing. It's all old growth true dimension red wood that they cut to build the city. He also knows where to get you authentic wavy glass. And note, the Austin Air system isn't going to clean your household air of allergens if you are leaving the windows open 12hrs a day. They aren't some magic bullet either. Their highest setting is LOUD and not something you're going to sleep next to - I can hear it clear across my house when I crank it during the day in fire season. Keeps the house feeling not smokey though which is quite nice, but we have to turn it back down to low when we are in the bedroom even just to change clothes really fast. Also ditch the cats obviously. 
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Jan 24, 2023 05:28
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DELETE CASCADE posted:as someone else living in a house with lots of active knob and tube wiring, i'm curious how you got an electrician to upgrade the panel without insisting on rewiring the house to modern code, and also if you've had any issues with insurance providers complaining about the old wiring? And it was the electrician who explained to me that it would be practically impossible to replace the in-wall wiring. Not a peep from either insurance provider. My understanding is that in practice knob and tube is fine as long as you never, ever, modify it. Running inside a wall, undisturbed, it's not an active threat. Add another outlet? All Hell breaks loose. E: a house without two cats is not a house cf: Crosby Stills Nash and Young. Arsenic Lupin fucked around with this message at 05:37 on Jan 24, 2023 |
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Jan 24, 2023 05:33
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DELETE CASCADE posted:as someone else living in a house with lots of active knob and tube wiring, i'm curious how you got an electrician to upgrade the panel without insisting on rewiring the house to modern code, and also if you've had any issues with insurance providers complaining about the old wiring? NEMA requires re-wiring if & only if the knob & tube has to be disturbed (cut) to mske repairs to the home. If all of the runs to the box are romex, etc. with no k&t then no problem.
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Jan 24, 2023 06:16
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Arsenic Lupin posted:True. Adding ducted hvac is impossible, without spending hundreds of thousands of dollars. The entire interior of this house is finished in layers of vintage beadboard. To run ducts through the walls, one would have to (gently) rip down the beadboard, then attempt to replace it, and probably hire a custom mill to make matching beadboard for the bits that broke. I don't know if this is even officially called beadboard: it's 3-4" wide strips of wood with a bead engraved on one end, tongue-and-grooved into one another. There are several different kinds of beadboard throughout the house, dating to the periods that various rooms were added or expanded. Replacing it with modern imitation beadboard would be a travesty. That's a tough one. You don't have attic or basement space for an air handler and ducting? That's how we have A/C in our c1925 house, no walls harmed in the installation process.
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Jan 24, 2023 14:45
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Anyone familiar with these guys?  It's a diamond grinder. Won't start, all the wiring looks ok, I've got it more less narrowed down to this contactor  But I can't tell what state it's supposed to be in. Hitting the starter does nothing, but if I push in on that row of white knobs there it'll run, but dies as soon as I let go. I figure either that's a breaker that's busted and needs replaced, or its natural state is out like that and the starter is supposed to click it in and failing. Not sure what I should be replacing first.
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Jan 24, 2023 19:41
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Check if it's getting voltage on the signaling side of the contactor. If it's getting appropriate voltage and not pulling in the contactor is bad. If it's not getting voltage you need to go back further to whatever is supposed to turn it on.
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Jan 24, 2023 19:55
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Make and model? But yeah there is likely a magnetic hold in that relay which is supposed to be activated somewhere in the wiring / brains. Are you familiar with how to work a multimeter? Are you familiar with how capacitors can still kill you when you have things unplugged? Make safe your unit (no power input - wall, battery, etc). I would put it in continuity mode and start sounding out paths starting with the starter. You will need a wiring diagram. I assume the start button is momentary normally open, so try that - no beep, press the button, beep? Go from there tracing the circuit.
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Jan 24, 2023 19:58
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Yeah I've traced continuity down to that point, switches are all at least opening and closing normally. Can't find a good wiring diagram, the one in the manual seems to be slightly different of course
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Jan 24, 2023 20:08
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I assume your time has value - I would parts cannon that contactor after checking the input voltages like Motronic suggested.
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Jan 24, 2023 20:11
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Can't find what the voltages are supposed to be but it's at least passing some. Just put my test light on it as well and it's all doing what I'd expect so I'm definitely leaning towards it just being blown.
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Jan 24, 2023 21:44
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is there other way to cut this transition besides a miter saw? https://www.llflooring.com/p/aquaseal-golden-gate-oak-laminate-waterproof-1-75-in-wide-x-7-5-ft-length-low-profile-t-molding-10046891.html
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Jan 24, 2023 21:52
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A hand saw?
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Jan 24, 2023 22:46
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I would hack saw that. I suppose you could also use a oscillating multi tool and a straight edge.
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Jan 24, 2023 23:38
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It's just plastic so any fine toothed saw will work. Or a box cutter if you're persistent.
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Jan 24, 2023 23:41
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ok thanks! I was only concerned about the teeth underneath being an issue. also it has to be pretty exact. I have a mini hacksaw i can try
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Jan 24, 2023 23:51
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I'm geoblocked from what's behind that there link, but hand miter saws are a thing and also guide blocks with 90 and 45 degree angles for use with other hand saws.
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Jan 25, 2023 00:04
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oh i didn't mention it needs to be cut at an angle if that's relevant. a goon in the woodworking thread who i know irl said the teeth might be an issue for hand saws. he did offer his bandsaw tho
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Jan 25, 2023 00:08
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If you need precision, then mark the cut and then don't cut exactly on the line. Leave yourself a bit too much material, and then sand or shave off a bit at a time until you get a good fit.
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Jan 25, 2023 01:05
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Just go to town with a hacksaw. It'll take less time than you spent debating how to cut it. If you're worried about the two teeth things on the bottom, flip it over and cut through them first. That's what I did when I cut some of that stuff. And if you're concerned about damaging the good side, put something under it like a scrap of foam.
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Jan 25, 2023 01:07
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:If you need precision, then mark the cut and then don't cut exactly on the line. Leave yourself a bit too much material, and then sand or shave off a bit at a time until you get a good fit. Also this, which I can confirm as the world champion of "measure thrice, cut once, still cut the drat thing too short how the hell did that happen."
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Jan 25, 2023 01:09
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