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Fuzz
Jun 2, 2003

Avatar brought to you by the TG Sanity fund
Got my AnkerMake M5 in the mail a couple weeks ago. Still haven't moved so no place to set it up. Excited, though.

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Doctor Zero
Sep 21, 2002

Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

SubNat posted:

Well, for one I don't have that much to spend, and the Prusa XL will cost quite a lot more than a fully specced out Bambu, especially when I'm unsure if I'd even use the 2 toolheads much.

A p1p or c1x just feels like a way more interesting machine to me, and while they are costly, they're at the upper range of what I'm willing to drop on a printer.
They're fast, they seem to print well, and the AMS feels better suited to my interest and actual use.

Yes, the XL will probably be the objective best and etc etc, but I just print stuff for fun and to make stuff for my friends. 2000-2500 usd plus 25% tax on top is more than I care to swallow, I've realised.

I dropped the Prusa XL preorder and got a Bambu Carbon X1 with AMS like 3 months ago for half the prince and have been printing happily ever since. It’s is fast and super easy to use. The slicer is actually really good. The print quality is incredible. It uses LiDAR and visual recognition to tram the bed, examine the first layer, and detect spaghetti. All work perfectly and have saved me a lot of time and aggravation. It will print anything short of metal.

The AMS is the only “weak spot”. It’s still great don’t get me wrong, but it’s not a tool changer of course. Also it’s a little unintuitive but maybe it’s because I haven’t read any of the guides. For example I can’t find a way to make it auto switch filaments when one runs out. Something I would have expected. If I’m. It missing anything it could be added with firmware updates I’m sure.

The Bambu filament is excellent, can be bought on reusable spools, and has RFID so the printer automatically knows what you loaded. You can use other brands of course but you just have to tell it what is loaded.

I do not regret the switch for a second. If I were to do it again the only thing I’d change is buying two of them. Two amazing printers now for the price of one unknown printer that comes out in the future is a good deal IMO even without the tool changer.

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

Doctor Zero posted:



The AMS is the only “weak spot”. It’s still great don’t get me wrong, but it’s not a tool changer of course. Also it’s a little unintuitive but maybe it’s because I haven’t read any of the guides. For example I can’t find a way to make it auto switch filaments when one runs out. Something I would have expected. If I’m. It missing anything it could be added with firmware updates I’m sure.


It's in there, you need to select it.

You need to goto into the AMS settings under the Device tab and turn it on, you also need to have the filaments you want to auto switch to the same brand/color/material and then it should auto switch.

Doctor Zero
Sep 21, 2002

Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

mattfl posted:

It's in there, you need to select it.

You need to goto into the AMS settings under the Device tab and turn it on, you also need to have the filaments you want to auto switch to the same brand/color/material and then it should auto switch.

I found it in the slicer, thanks. Also, color matters?? That's probably what the issue is.

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

Doctor Zero posted:

I found it in the slicer, thanks. Also, color matters?? That's probably what the issue is.

Yeah, gotta be the same color.

Bodanarko
May 29, 2009
Does anyone in here have experience with the Bambu flat PEI sheet and printing PLA mostly? I have no interest in slathering a cool plate with glue but I’ve heard that the PEI sticker on the flat sheet delaminates after a very low number of prints and is just considered a “consumable”.

Bambu redditors wave that off but coming from using a prusa mini and printing constantly on one sheet for 2 years that sounds insane.

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

Bodanarko posted:

Does anyone in here have experience with the Bambu flat PEI sheet and printing PLA mostly? I have no interest in slathering a cool plate with glue but I’ve heard that the PEI sticker on the flat sheet delaminates after a very low number of prints and is just considered a “consumable”.

Bambu redditors wave that off but coming from using a prusa mini and printing constantly on one sheet for 2 years that sounds insane.

I use the bambu texture PEI sheet that came with my P1P and it rocks and all I've been printing is PLA. I think it's different than what you're talking about though as I guess the X1 didn't come with a real textured PEI?

tracecomplete
Feb 26, 2017

queeb posted:

Going to a .6mm nozzle on all my printers has been great, practically 0 loss of detail on prints and it's saving hours for each printer. .6 should really be default for most people

Maybe it's just me, but I get what I perceive to be better quality out of running 0.6mm lines out of 0.4mm nozzles. I've used 0.6 nozzles as well but have tended to get overextruded top layers even after fiddling with it a bunch.

Ethics_Gradient
May 5, 2015

Common misconception that; that fun is relaxing. If it is, you're not doing it right.
Me: "Okay got this tiny little micro SD card, house is a mess right now, whatever you do Ethics Gradient, do NOT get sidetracked on the way to the computer and set it down somewhere.

Also me, sitting down at the computer 10 minutes later: "Now where did I put that... :negative:"

This is the second one I've lost that way. I was getting SD Init errors when I tried a 64GB out of my camera (Google suggests Marlin doesn't like high capacity memory cards), luckily I still have my mate's Ender 3 here that I fixed, so I borrowed his for now.

Had left the printer dormant for a couple months while other projects took over. Ran the filament through a cycle or two on the dryer and it spit out a perfect 6.5 hour ABS print, no muss, no fuss. That was a relief.

Doctor Zero
Sep 21, 2002

Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Bodanarko posted:

Does anyone in here have experience with the Bambu flat PEI sheet and printing PLA mostly? I have no interest in slathering a cool plate with glue but I’ve heard that the PEI sticker on the flat sheet delaminates after a very low number of prints and is just considered a “consumable”.

Bambu redditors wave that off but coming from using a prusa mini and printing constantly on one sheet for 2 years that sounds insane.

The glue stick actually helps the models come off not stay on. I tried without the glue stick once and was afraid I was going to pull the surface off so I started using it again.

It doesn’t need much. Just wash the plate, put a thin coat on and leave it. I’ve been printing heavily for a month without reapplying and it’s been fine so far, if a little unsightly, but it doesn’t affect the print quality.

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

Does taking the plate off and flexing it not work with these printers? I haven't used a glue stick since I got rid of my stupid glass plate.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Ethics_Gradient posted:

Me: "Okay got this tiny little micro SD card, house is a mess right now, whatever you do Ethics Gradient, do NOT get sidetracked on the way to the computer and set it down somewhere.

Also me, sitting down at the computer 10 minutes later: "Now where did I put that... :negative:"

This is the second one I've lost that way. I was getting SD Init errors when I tried a 64GB out of my camera (Google suggests Marlin doesn't like high capacity memory cards), luckily I still have my mate's Ender 3 here that I fixed, so I borrowed his for now.

Had left the printer dormant for a couple months while other projects took over. Ran the filament through a cycle or two on the dryer and it spit out a perfect 6.5 hour ABS print, no muss, no fuss. That was a relief.

Lol holy poo poo this is me..
turns on printer.. no media
gently caress.. I stuck the card in my pocket sometime last week when I was going ot print something and now I have no fuckin clue where it is.. and it's all black.. it's probably stuck in my washer drain now.

you can format a new card but gotta split it down to 32gb for FAT32. Just had to do this with a 128gb card

EVIL Gibson
Mar 23, 2001

Internet of Things is just someone else's computer that people can't help attaching cameras and door locks to!
:vapes:
Switchblade Switcharoo

Sagebrush posted:

In my experience the embrittlement is irreversible. You can try drying them in your oven at about 175F/80C and see what happens, but I understand that moisture absorption causes changes to the polymer structure that are permanent even after the water is driven off.

I find I can recover filaments by running them through the dehyrdrator since the heat is low enough to not melt it completely while it gently releases the moisture. You want a dry heat going through instead of a high heat like an oven which can mess up the filament diameter.



Not the exact model but to show that it should be stackable and circular.

Get extra spare spacers and cut the grid out of one/several of them and put the reels of filament in there. It's better to completely unwind the filament so the air can get the filament close to the center, but found this cause the filament to knot itself and gently caress everything up.

For my question, I am trying to print the clickspring Slideback box which prints in place into a box with a sliding garage door-like feature



The issue is while the door (which prints on the bottom) can move, it will not rotate. I think the printer is having problems with this part. It shouldn't since I did the xyz calibration to almost 20.00~20.0Xmm all around.



I tried to print at a .2 layer height, then a .12 layer height last night. While I got the .2 layer height to bend it took me to break the entire thing out which breaks the whole box.

How it is supposed to print:



Now that I am thinking about it, maybe removing infill and/or printing the external perimiter first might help.

EVIL Gibson fucked around with this message at 20:50 on Jan 26, 2023

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

BadMedic posted:

I still don't see how 0.6 actually speeds things up, unless you have a high flow rate hot end?

Like on my Neptune 3, I've got it maxing out my flow rate on a 0.4 nozzle at only 1/4 of the machine's max rated movement speed. Even if I replaced the hot end with one that doubled the flow rate, I could just double the movement speed, or set it to extrude a fat 0.8mm line and still stick with the 0.4.

Like maybe the neptune has a really low flow rate, but it's ~12mm^3/s, which seems on par with most ender clones?

Huh? What's the Neptune 3 max rated speed? (And can it actually print with any degree of accuracy at the speed).
For reference, I've run 200m/s on my corexy on a 0.4mm nozzle without any extrusion issues.

badjohny
Oct 6, 2005



So is there a definite answer on if printing with PLA is bad for you? I see videos of people saying it will kill you and others saying your findeif your use an enclosed case. I figure its not great to be sniffing the stuff directly, but what practices are best?

I have the Bambu Carbon x1 and now I am worried about using it. I have it in my basement that is about 1500 sq feet. The furnace fans are on non stop circulating air in the house, But I don't have a vent to the outside air. The printer is on my desk next to me. Should I move it?

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


Javid posted:

ymmv if you're in florida or something

i will have you know there are two of us

Ethics_Gradient
May 5, 2015

Common misconception that; that fun is relaxing. If it is, you're not doing it right.

badjohny posted:

So is there a definite answer on if printing with PLA is bad for you? I see videos of people saying it will kill you and others saying your findeif your use an enclosed case. I figure its not great to be sniffing the stuff directly, but what practices are best?

I have the Bambu Carbon x1 and now I am worried about using it. I have it in my basement that is about 1500 sq feet. The furnace fans are on non stop circulating air in the house, But I don't have a vent to the outside air. The printer is on my desk next to me. Should I move it?

My understanding (could be mistaken) is that PLA is pretty benign, ABS and some of the others are the ones that produce the real nasties (resin printing is also one where proper ventillation is important). I'd still probably keep it further away from my desk; mine is downstairs where I generally don't spend much time.

If you're near an IKEA, you might look into printing a LACK enclosure and an air filtration system for a fun project/peace of mind.

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

Deviant posted:

i will have you know there are two of us

Hey, wanna buy my Prusa lol

BadMedic
Jul 22, 2007

I've never actually seen him heal anybody.
Pillbug

ImplicitAssembler posted:

Huh? What's the Neptune 3 max rated speed? (And can it actually print with any degree of accuracy at the speed).
For reference, I've run 200m/s on my corexy on a 0.4mm nozzle without any extrusion issues.

The manual claims a max of 200mm/s, and at 0.4 wide / 0.3 height I top out at around 45mm/s before I run into flow issues. (that's the actual print head move speed, for some reason by default cura takes your print speed and cuts it in half for almost everything???)
I've never tried going super fast with thin 0.1 layers tho, I doubt the quality would be good without installing and tuning klipper or some poo poo.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

badjohny posted:

So is there a definite answer on if printing with PLA is bad for you?

PLA is as harmless as 3D printing gets. There's no foreseeable problem with it unless microplastic vapor turns out to be this generation's asbestos and in that case we're all hosed no matter what.

badjohny
Oct 6, 2005



Thank you for the answers. For the people that own the Bambu carbon, do you leave it on all day? I read it is suppose to go to sleep when not in use, but mine always has the lights on and the fan always seems to be running. I guess I consider going to sleep like a computer, where it "shuts off" but still is on to run updates and such.

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

BadMedic posted:

I top out at around 45mm/s before I run into flow issues.

That doesn't sound right.

Doctor Zero
Sep 21, 2002

Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Tiny Timbs posted:

Does taking ß ≤nthe plate off and flexing it not work with these printers? I haven't used a glue stick since I got rid of my stupid glass plate.

It does, but the stuff sticks so much than ''''''''''''''''''\,∂´



(sorry that was the cat)

I was saying that it does work, but stuff still sticks like a mother to it. Big parts? Not so bad. Little parts? Ugh.

bbcisdabomb
Jan 15, 2008

SHEESH
I'm going to be upgrading my Ender to a flex plate this weekend and I should probably also fix the x-gantry at the same time. If the right side of the gantry is 1mm above the left can I just remove the z-screw, loosen the eccentric wheel, and pull it down (assuming I re-tighten everything, of course)? Or do I have to do the whole song and dance with pulling the top extrusion off and realigning everything again?

I think I know the answer, I'm just lazy. Maybe I'll even get the CR-Touch set up this weekend too :sigh:

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


mattfl posted:

Hey, wanna buy my Prusa lol

stop trying to sell me 3d printers!

and maybe.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

As I understand it, PLA is almost, but not quite edible/food grade, mostly for legal/liability reasons. You still shouldn't print forks and spoons out of it, but also, it's highly unlikely you're gonna get cancer from it

ABS is nasty smelling stuff, you might have mixed those up

PET-G is the stuff they make soda bottles out of (mostly) and is also almost-but-not-quite food grade nontoxic too

Those are all FDM printing materials.

Resin printing materials are all 100% mega toxic and will give you skin irritation if not properly cured

BadMedic
Jul 22, 2007

I've never actually seen him heal anybody.
Pillbug

ImplicitAssembler posted:

That doesn't sound right.

you are right, I just did the math and there's some weirdness going on here
I guess it's back to tuning and testing for me

Edit: No actually my math was right, I just remembered the wrong figures. A base ender 3 hotend at 200*C is about 6mm^3/s, which is the limit I'm hitting.
It looks like I could bump that up significantly if I shot the temps up to 240*C, but I'm worried about burning the plastic if there's a jam at that temp. Basic ender 3 clone hotends are just... really limited.

BadMedic fucked around with this message at 14:34 on Jan 27, 2023

Doctor Zero
Sep 21, 2002

Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

BadMedic posted:

you are right, I just did the math and there's some weirdness going on here
I guess it's back to tuning and testing for me

Edit: No actually my math was right, I just remembered the wrong figures. A base ender 3 hotend at 200*C is about 6mm^3/s, which is the limit I'm hitting.
It looks like I could bump that up significantly if I shot the temps up to 240*C, but I'm worried about burning the plastic if there's a jam at that temp. Basic ender 3 clone hotends are just... really limited.

Wait. Are you using volumetric extrusion? Don’t do that. Enders really do not like that.

EVIL Gibson
Mar 23, 2001

Internet of Things is just someone else's computer that people can't help attaching cameras and door locks to!
:vapes:
Switchblade Switcharoo
PrusaSlicer alpha is gonna have the one thing I've wanted; Cutting a model and leaving behind aligning pins/holes to fit them back together

https://www.tomshardware.com/news/new-features-added-to-prusaslicer-26-alpha-release

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.


I should probably finally give up simplify3d…I just haven’t felt compelled yet because it works and I know how to use it, but it seems pretty far behind at this point. Anyone got an ideal guide setting prusa up for a Rostock?

BadMedic
Jul 22, 2007

I've never actually seen him heal anybody.
Pillbug

Doctor Zero posted:

Wait. Are you using volumetric extrusion? Don’t do that. Enders really do not like that.

No, I'm doing the math and finding my current settings (0.4 width, 0.3 height, 45mm/s, 210*C) is hitting the expected flow rate limits of my printer. The calculations and observed results line up. I might be able to push a tiny bit further, but I *definitely* get underextrusion if I go past 50mm/s.

withak
Jan 15, 2003


Fun Shoe

EVIL Gibson posted:

PrusaSlicer alpha is gonna have the one thing I've wanted; Cutting a model and leaving behind aligning pins/holes to fit them back together

https://www.tomshardware.com/news/new-features-added-to-prusaslicer-26-alpha-release



Holy poo poo.

Snapshot
Oct 22, 2004

damnit Matt get in the boat

EVIL Gibson posted:

PrusaSlicer alpha is gonna have the one thing I've wanted; Cutting a model and leaving behind aligning pins/holes to fit them back together

https://www.tomshardware.com/news/new-features-added-to-prusaslicer-26-alpha-release



The generally oriented plane is nice, although you could get that by tweaking model orientation. It’ll save a few seconds. I’m really happy about automatic addition of locating features. Making holes for locating cut parts with filament dowels inside of prusa slicer was clunky at best.

BadMedic
Jul 22, 2007

I've never actually seen him heal anybody.
Pillbug

Hadlock posted:

As I understand it, PLA is almost, but not quite edible/food grade, mostly for legal/liability reasons. You still shouldn't print forks and spoons out of it, but also, it's highly unlikely you're gonna get cancer from it

IIRC the problem isn't with the materials themselves, it's with the printing process. FDM leaves a very porous surface, which microbes love and is basically impossible to clean properly. You can't really sterilize it either, cause boiling temps will melt/deform basically all of the common materials.

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




EVIL Gibson posted:

PrusaSlicer alpha is gonna have the one thing I've wanted; Cutting a model and leaving behind aligning pins/holes to fit them back together

https://www.tomshardware.com/news/new-features-added-to-prusaslicer-26-alpha-release



And just like that, I never needed to touch meshmixer ever again

Tears of joy streaming down my face

SubNat
Nov 27, 2008

EVIL Gibson posted:

PrusaSlicer alpha is gonna have the one thing I've wanted; Cutting a model and leaving behind aligning pins/holes to fit them back together.

Yeah, that'll be nice, also organic/tree supports, and a nice little 'text to mesh' feature to make it easier to add text to models.
Seems like a very nice QoL update in a couple big ways.

Bobulus
Jan 28, 2007

So I guess I'm being dumb with that 'organic' support. I see examples like this:

https://twitter.com/TheZuza/status/1600782712776065024

and I'm confused, because that's a symmetrical cylinder/cone that's being printed, but the supports generated do not look symmetrical. I imagine these are developed by an iterative process? If you let it run more iterations, would it end up looking 'better'? It doesn't really matter, but it bothers me for reasons.

edit: I guess I should look at it as a weaving 'branch' and not a globby thing.

Bobulus fucked around with this message at 17:08 on Jan 27, 2023

withak
Jan 15, 2003


Fun Shoe
You think you know better than The Algorithm?

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

EVIL Gibson posted:

PrusaSlicer alpha is gonna have the one thing I've wanted;


:pray: this is really going to change how I use my printer

Also, this is looking pretty cool. Some people are calling it "krakken" supports, for obvious reasons



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Ygolonac
Nov 26, 2007

pre:
*************
CLUTCH  NIXON
*************

The Hero We Need

withak posted:

You think you know better than The Algorithm?

Algorithm, Emperor of the Moongorithm

Saw a really neat idea I might have to try - printed 3D relief map (not lithophane) of the Moon, using glow-in-the-dark filamant, and a printed LED-strip light inside. LEDs apparently charge it up so when you turn out the light, the Moon will glow creepily all night for you.

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