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Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

Snowy posted:

Also make sure it’s fitting right, a little getting in around the sides can add up. Facial hair makes it tough to get a good seal.

That's why you smear your beard with Vaseline

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Snowy
Oct 6, 2010

A man whose blood
Is very snow-broth;
One who never feels
The wanton stings and
Motions of the sense



Blue Footed Booby posted:

That's why you smear your beard with Vaseline

I should try that. I just make the mask so tight it cuts off blood flow to my brain

Midjack
Dec 24, 2007



Blue Footed Booby posted:

That's why you smear your beard with Vaseline

That can work but it makes a god drat mess and can be difficult to make into a good seal. If you're in a situation where you have to use respiratory PPE the best thing is to just be clean shaven or trim back to a horseshoe style or similar that will fit inside the respirator cup.

Ensign Expendable
Nov 11, 2008

Lager beer is proof that god loves us
Pillbug
There's a style of facial hair that works very well with respiratory protection. Unfortunately, it's been somewhat marred a few decades ago.

Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010

Snowy posted:

Facial hair makes it tough to get a good seal.
Nice avatar/post combo.

tidal wave emulator
Aug 7, 2007

If you've got a half face mask that tucks up under your chin (I use a 3M 7500) then you can get away with a tache and goatee, just keep your cheeks and jaw free and ensure no stubble crosses the barrier.

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

Snowy posted:

I should try that. I just make the mask so tight it cuts off blood flow to my brain

I'll have to try this. I find my brain often has too much blood.

Sash!
Mar 16, 2001


Ensign Expendable posted:

There's a style of facial hair that works very well with respiratory protection. Unfortunately, it's been somewhat marred a few decades ago.

Yeah who wants to look like that goofball Chaplin

Midjack
Dec 24, 2007



I am here to tell you, Badger diaphragm air compressors are trash. I got one on sale a few years ago but didn't get around to using it till today and it was dead out of the box. My first one gave up after less than a year. The piston one I got about a decade ago is still going strong at least.

therunningman
Jun 28, 2005
...'e 'ad to spleet.


My vinyl wheels are peeling! What did I do wrong? They are primed with "Painter's Touch" then brush painted with Vallejo and lastly clearcoated with Vallejo airbrushed gloss.

Is it just the nature of the vinyl? How are you supposed to paint these, and by extension tank rubber tracks?





So difficult, but I have realized I enjoy painting figures very much. It can only improve from here.

I fully admit it's an AliExpress recast, but I have seen the light and got some originals on order.

The sculpts have come so far from the "Tamiya 35038 Machine Gun Troops" I last painted in 1996.

Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something
Painting the sort of vinyl in tires and treads is very tough. Easier to just accentuate them with pigments. Dusty or muddy hues on tires, the same on treads along with some rusty tones.

Midjack
Dec 24, 2007



I've heard good things about the Mr. Color Flat Tire Black and Mr. Hobby Aqueous Color Flat Tire Black but haven't personally used either.

mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952




therunningman posted:



So difficult, but I have realized I enjoy painting figures very much. It can only improve from here.

That turned out really well. Keep posting!

Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something

Midjack posted:

I've heard good things about the Mr. Color Flat Tire Black and Mr. Hobby Aqueous Color Flat Tire Black but haven't personally used either.

Those are just paints meant to replicate the color of tires, no meant for application on vinyl tires.

The problem with vinyl is that it's a soft plastic. Vinyl model kits are usually a stiffer vinyl, so somewhat less of an issue. Rubber tires and treads though are very soft, and the amount of plasticizer in them to keep them soft will prevent many types of paints from ever drying. Enamel for sure will never dry completely on vinyl. You can paint it, come back in 5 years and it'll still be tacky. Some lacquers will dry, some won't, it's really hit and miss. Same with acrylics, some work, some don't. Stynylrez primer is good for vinyl, as that's one of it's main selling points. You can get it in black as well, so that right there could be used.

But really that's just adding an extra step. Vinyl tires are already the proper color, they just need some weathering to make them realistic. Pigments can be dusted on to dull the tires, fill the treads with dirt, or mixed up to create muddy splashes and chunks. They won't be permanent adhered like a true paint, but they go on as basically the last step and then typically you're not handling the model once it's done.

Honestly, if you want to take your model to the next level, see if there are aftermarket tires in styrene that have proper tire bulge on the bottoms. More realistic appearance, and you can paint them with anything.

therunningman
Jun 28, 2005
...'e 'ad to spleet.
That's a really good insight, thanks for the write-up! Seems there is no easy solution to dealing with vinyl. On these wheels I will try some pigments and see how it goes. Will probably look for hard plastic wheels in the future though.

quote:

That turned out really well. Keep posting

Thanks! I'm excited to paint more figures.

Old Swerdlow
Jul 24, 2008
Night Shift uses a really simple technique of a light zenithal highlight over the figure and then some thin glaze layers of paint that looks to be really effective.

https://youtu.be/kMRYdTTYyBU

therunningman
Jun 28, 2005
...'e 'ad to spleet.
Looks very interesting, I may give that glazing technique a try on the next figure.

Chuck_D
Aug 25, 2003

Midjack posted:

I am here to tell you, Badger diaphragm air compressors are trash. I got one on sale a few years ago but didn't get around to using it till today and it was dead out of the box. My first one gave up after less than a year. The piston one I got about a decade ago is still going strong at least.

I've been running the same Iwata Smartjet compressor for 9 years and it has been problem and maintenance free. Great investment.

Arquinsiel
Jun 1, 2006

"There is no such thing as society. There are individual men and women, and there are families. And no government can do anything except through people, and people must look to themselves first."

God Bless Margaret Thatcher
God Bless England
RIP My Iron Lady

therunningman posted:



My vinyl wheels are peeling! What did I do wrong? They are primed with "Painter's Touch" then brush painted with Vallejo and lastly clearcoated with Vallejo airbrushed gloss.

Is it just the nature of the vinyl? How are you supposed to paint these, and by extension tank rubber tracks?
Rubber tank tracks will be slightly tougher vinyl but they'll probably still flake a lot too. They'll generally be made in roughly the right colour to weather with the techniques mentioned above, but not always. The way I've tended to handle them is fixing them together, painting them, then putting them into place at the same time as putting the drive sprocket on. It's awkward as gently caress but easier than dealing with all the flaking.

Midjack
Dec 24, 2007



Bloody Hedgehog posted:

Those are just paints meant to replicate the color of tires, no meant for application on vinyl tires.
oh duh why don't I try reading once in a while :doh:

Gewehr 43 posted:

I've been running the same Iwata Smartjet compressor for 9 years and it has been problem and maintenance free. Great investment.

I rage purchased an Iwata Powerjet last night, my dad swears by them too.

therunningman
Jun 28, 2005
...'e 'ad to spleet.


While I wait for some pigments for the tires I took a photo. I'm pretty happy with my re-entry into the hobby. Starting on the next one in the meantime!

Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something

Midjack posted:

I rage purchased an Iwata Powerjet last night, my dad swears by them too.

The Powerjets are great, I've got one too. That thing will last you a lifetime.

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




I picked up a filament 3D printer about a month ago and printed "Thing" from "Wednesday". It is printed in flat white filament and I am looking to give it a very realistic paint job. I remember watching a video for painting the faces of miniature human figures where the artist used undercoats of purple, blue, and red, then followed up with semi-transparent flesh tones. I'd like to watch that video again, but I can't find it. Anybody know what video I'm talking about or have suggestions for other videos to create realistic flesh tones?

Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something

SkunkDuster posted:

I picked up a filament 3D printer about a month ago and printed "Thing" from "Wednesday". It is printed in flat white filament and I am looking to give it a very realistic paint job. I remember watching a video for painting the faces of miniature human figures where the artist used undercoats of purple, blue, and red, then followed up with semi-transparent flesh tones. I'd like to watch that video again, but I can't find it. Anybody know what video I'm talking about or have suggestions for other videos to create realistic flesh tones?

Not sure which exact video you were looking at, but I quite like the work of Rafael Robledo Jr. Just about every video he does where skin is involved, he uses the aforementioned technique of spatters of primary colors covered by transparent shades of skin color. I picked out a Batman repaint he did below, but check his vids on youtube, lots of great examples there.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0FxA0-EgIkU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K6lm9cUL8g0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G8_1F9W9qYE

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




Bloody Hedgehog posted:

Not sure which exact video you were looking at, but I quite like the work of Rafael Robledo Jr. Just about every video he does where skin is involved, he uses the aforementioned technique of spatters of primary colors covered by transparent shades of skin color. I picked out a Batman repaint he did below, but check his vids on youtube, lots of great examples there.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0FxA0-EgIkU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K6lm9cUL8g0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G8_1F9W9qYE

That first Batman video was exactly the one I was thinking of. You are awesome!

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Does anybody modify 1:64 (hot wheels, matchbox scale) diecast cars, or have a lead on someone who does?

If you do it yourself, would you consider a commission project? If not, do you have a list of materials I should take on to pull a project myself?

Vorenus
Jul 14, 2013
After like a year of letting my partially assembled M1A2 gather a very natural dust effect I've been slowly working on it. The engine is pretty simplified, the actual engine is insanely complex, but I found a happy medium in the form of a somewhat simplified 3D mockup which I'm using as a rough guide to add bits of wiring and piping.

mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952




Dr. Lunchables posted:

Does anybody modify 1:64 (hot wheels, matchbox scale) diecast cars, or have a lead on someone who does?

Good news! The game "Gaslands" is played with... modified Hot Wheels. There's a thread. You may not have Mad Max visions of a post-apocalyptic hellscape, but those people do mod Hot Wheels.

Arquinsiel
Jun 1, 2006

"There is no such thing as society. There are individual men and women, and there are families. And no government can do anything except through people, and people must look to themselves first."

God Bless Margaret Thatcher
God Bless England
RIP My Iron Lady
I tried it for Force on Force as a way to get cheap pickup trucks for Afghanistan use, but wasn't super successful. The Gaslands people locally taught me how to take them apart in a way that lets me paint all the bits separately and then re-assemble it nicely, so even the interior detail is paintable and visible. Highly recommend that thread.

stealie72
Jan 10, 2007
Hi model thread.

Getting back into making models after approximately 30 years off because the kids are teenagers that want to hide in their rooms and my wife is going back to grad school, so I need something quiet to keep me busy while she studies.

Spent the last month reading the thread and holy crap are so many of you so good. I've got a lot of techniques to learn. I thought I was fancy when I was 15 because I figured out how to use a sprue and a candle to make whip antennas for tanks.

The big difference between 15 year old me and now is that I can spend more, and there's so much out there, which leads me to my first question of the thread:

Is Mission Models paint not good?

I picked some up to use on a kit I've had kicking around forever, and found it to be overly thin with uneven coverage over Tamiya primer. It was the first paint I ran through my airbrush and thought I forgot how to use one, until I tested out a Tamiya color (thinned with x-20 to the rim when I first opened it, just like I used to do) and it went on beautifully.

I can mess around with settings/technique, but if the consensus is that it's not good paint, I'll just move on to the vallejo rack next to it.

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.
I actually broke into a bottle of MM yellow zinc chromate a day and change ago, and I have to say it sucks. Coverage wasn't terrible, but this is reactivating instantly at the slightest hint of moisture.

mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952




On an airbrush Vallejo Model Air is pretty much the standard.

Charliegrs
Aug 10, 2009

stealie72 posted:

Hi model thread.

Getting back into making models after approximately 30 years off because the kids are teenagers that want to hide in their rooms and my wife is going back to grad school, so I need something quiet to keep me busy while she studies.

Spent the last month reading the thread and holy crap are so many of you so good. I've got a lot of techniques to learn. I thought I was fancy when I was 15 because I figured out how to use a sprue and a candle to make whip antennas for tanks.

The big difference between 15 year old me and now is that I can spend more, and there's so much out there, which leads me to my first question of the thread:

Is Mission Models paint not good?

I picked some up to use on a kit I've had kicking around forever, and found it to be overly thin with uneven coverage over Tamiya primer. It was the first paint I ran through my airbrush and thought I forgot how to use one, until I tested out a Tamiya color (thinned with x-20 to the rim when I first opened it, just like I used to do) and it went on beautifully.

I can mess around with settings/technique, but if the consensus is that it's not good paint, I'll just move on to the vallejo rack next to it.

I never had good luck with Mission Models paint. I don't know what it's made of, but it seems really different than pretty much any other paint I've tried. It feels like, plasticity and I had issues thinning it enough (using MM thinner). It seems like it never dries too.

There's basically only a few kinds of paint I use these days. For acrylics, I use Tamiya. Unless I need a water based acrylic then I use Vallejo. But these days I've gone almost completely lacquer I just find it so much better especially when it comes to airbrushing. Tamiya and Mr Hobby is basically all I use for that. Keep in mind I'm a car modeller only, and lacquers don't seem too popular with military modellers from what ive seen. I don't know why. But if I was military modeler I'd probably just use Tamiya acrylics for everything. They are really lovely paints and airbrush really well once thinned out with Tamiya or Mr Hobby lacquer thinner.

Ensign Expendable
Nov 11, 2008

Lager beer is proof that god loves us
Pillbug
I bought a bottle of Mission Models brass because my local store stopped carrying the brand and was liquidating whatever they had left. I could see why, it was incredibly bad, very poor coverage. I also got a bottle of Olive Drab which seems fine.

Ensign Expendable
Nov 11, 2008

Lager beer is proof that god loves us
Pillbug
1:72 Revell T-34-85. Smaller than my usual scale, but I think I mostly did okay. There are some fuckups on the tracks, link and length in this scale is very difficult.







Charliegrs
Aug 10, 2009
What's a good first military model to try? I've been car modelling for years but I'm kinda burnt out on it. I like more modern-ish vehicles (like cold war up to today). I was thinking a Hummer might be a good idea since it's still basically a car model but I can practice the various weathering techniques that I'm not that familiar with on it. Tank models scare me because it sounds like tracks are a nightmare. Maybe something like a Stryker or LAV-25 would be good.

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.
I promise I read your post and I'm going to make alternative suggestions more in line with what you want, but for your first non-car model, I would seriously recommend the Tamiya 1/35th Panzer II. It's basically foolproof to build, you can get one for around USD 10, and you can paint it however you like because gently caress Nazis. You even get some figures with it, if you want to fool around with those.

That out of the way, I'd stick to Tamiya for your first couple kits, making sure they're not Italeri reboxes. The 1/48th line in particular has some good post-war models to pick from; the newest is the Challenger 2, and you basically can't go wrong with a T-55 no matter when you want to date it to. About the oldest modern-era subject in the line is the cargo Humvee, which is 2009 vintage - it won't have all the latest and greatest tricks, but's still super solid.

The Tamiya 1/48s in the black-box Military Miniature series should all be new enough to be easy to build, while also being a pretty cheap way to get into that side of the hobby. The tanks should all have link-and-length tracks, but I promise they're not as scary as they sound. There are some newer 1/35th models in their line that would probably tickle your fancy, but they are going to be proportionally more expensive.

I'd stay away from a lot of the really nice Chinese kits like RFM, Meng, and the newer Dragon kits for your first go. While they make nice models, they also tend to be substantially more complex than similar Tamiya offerings.

Charliegrs
Aug 10, 2009

grassy gnoll posted:

I promise I read your post and I'm going to make alternative suggestions more in line with what you want, but for your first non-car model, I would seriously recommend the Tamiya 1/35th Panzer II. It's basically foolproof to build, you can get one for around USD 10, and you can paint it however you like because gently caress Nazis. You even get some figures with it, if you want to fool around with those.

That out of the way, I'd stick to Tamiya for your first couple kits, making sure they're not Italeri reboxes. The 1/48th line in particular has some good post-war models to pick from; the newest is the Challenger 2, and you basically can't go wrong with a T-55 no matter when you want to date it to. About the oldest modern-era subject in the line is the cargo Humvee, which is 2009 vintage - it won't have all the latest and greatest tricks, but's still super solid.

The Tamiya 1/48s in the black-box Military Miniature series should all be new enough to be easy to build, while also being a pretty cheap way to get into that side of the hobby. The tanks should all have link-and-length tracks, but I promise they're not as scary as they sound. There are some newer 1/35th models in their line that would probably tickle your fancy, but they are going to be proportionally more expensive.

I'd stay away from a lot of the really nice Chinese kits like RFM, Meng, and the newer Dragon kits for your first go. While they make nice models, they also tend to be substantially more complex than similar Tamiya offerings.

Yeah I am definitely planning on going with Tamiya at first. Their car models are always top notch so I would assume there would be a similar level of quality with their military models. I love T55s and Challengers I might have to check those out.

Ensign Expendable
Nov 11, 2008

Lager beer is proof that god loves us
Pillbug
The Tamiya Walker Bulldog is also a foolproof beginner's kit in the same price bracket if you want to steer clear of Nazis altogether.

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grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.
Hell, if you want an M41 I'll flip you mine for the cost of shipping.

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