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Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




Getting my Bosch 500 installed this coming Monday :getin:

Any tips for what to do regarding my current dishwasher? I've got the HD list of poo poo to do but if there's anything that makes the whole process easier/smoother I'm all ears :toot:

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Tezer
Jul 9, 2001

Motronic posted:

Just hire the attorney you were always going to need now. Having demand letters on a lawyers letter head is basically magic and doesn't cost much for them to produce.

You know how shitheads say things like "I'm gonna SUE!!!!" and everyone knows they're full of poo poo? Well, having your lawyer write letter for you is like that, but you actually can and do intend to sue and don't even need to say it: everyone who gets those letters already knows it's a very likely possibility.

In addition to this, your jurisdiction might have 'right to cure' laws that lay out a process that needs to be followed regarding alleged construction defects. A lawyer will be able to advise you on this. You want to avoid creating more issues for yourself by failing to notify properly or something.

For example, here is the process in Wisconsin:
https://dsps.wi.gov/Documents/Programs/UDC/RightToCureLaw.pdf

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



I think my real estate attorney would charge like $300 or $400 for a demand letter for the “research” he has to do. But repair disagreements often reach that dollar mark easily. Sucks that your most promising recourse could cost $400 that you’ll never get back, and folks not able to afford that amount would be SOL on being made whole.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


I ended up calling a pro for the microwave ircuit issue. It was just less bullshit that way.

Now I can play MMOs and make pizza rolls at the same time, the goon dream.

theflyingexecutive
Apr 22, 2007

Tremors posted:

Hey thread. Are there any steps or cya moves I should take before considering firing my general contractor before my insurance rebuild is complete? They continue to fail to meet expectations and aren't putting the right pressure on their roofing subcontractor (roof was put on the garage in October and it still leaks after countless return visits). We've already asked for a statement of which parts of our quote are still unfinished so we have a starting point to shop the work around.

Inner Light posted:

I think my real estate attorney would charge like $300 or $400 for a demand letter for the “research” he has to do. But repair disagreements often reach that dollar mark easily. Sucks that your most promising recourse could cost $400 that you’ll never get back, and folks not able to afford that amount would be SOL on being made whole.

I believe demand letters are one of the covered services in MetLife's Legal Plan. See if you can get it through work, but buying it straight up costs something like $99/year. My wife and I used it for a real estate lawyer for our closing and it was pretty cool saving $3k.

Toebone
Jul 1, 2002

Start remembering what you hear.
I'm replacing my kitchen faucet, probably buying a Delta or Moen. Is there actually a big difference in quality between buying from a plumbing supply store and Home Depot / Lowes?

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


VelociBacon posted:

I'm surprised you couldn't SELL the wood to someone who would come and take it away for their fireplace or whatever.
Cottonwood/poplar is lousy firewood. It burns fast.

fknlo
Jul 6, 2009


Fun Shoe

PainterofCrap posted:

Yes, and when you go back, use the kind of grout that chimney builders use. It handles heat & thermal expansion better than standard mortar.

No matter how you reset the stone, I would suggest putting capstone of some type around the perimeter lip that overhangs the outer base by a couple inches to protect the exposed top edge from water infiltration & erosion. You can install it right over what's there.

Awesome. What's going to be the best way to remove the old mortar? There seem to be a ton of different options from power to hand stuff.



Something like that?

fknlo fucked around with this message at 21:20 on Feb 10, 2023

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?

Arsenic Lupin posted:

Cottonwood/poplar is lousy firewood. It burns fast.

This.

The only thing they're good for is being a wind block in rural areas. They grow really fast.

Other than that the wood burns quickly and it's very brittle and weak. Mine is right on a creek so it's growing at a nuclear rate.

We might have them severely trimmed but they grow so fast it might end up costing more in the long run.

We'll see how work bonuses (lol in 2023) pan out. I mostly want the one over the house gone asap. The other is whatever but it would be nice for that to be gone as well.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
Man, that's a lot of expense. My sympathies.

I had a row of a half-dozen crappy fast-growing trees along my back fence, probably north of 40' tall...we had a big windstorm and two of them tilted over so they were leaning on the fence. I got them all taken out for like $1000. Just the tree guy and one of his helpers, chopped the trees up into bits, carried them to their truck, and hauled them away in the space of a few hours.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

Johnny Truant posted:

Getting my Bosch 500 installed this coming Monday :getin:

Any tips for what to do regarding my current dishwasher? I've got the HD list of poo poo to do but if there's anything that makes the whole process easier/smoother I'm all ears :toot:

Does it work? Sell it for a pittance or give it away.

If it doesn't, take it to the dump.

Also, good choice. Some people don't like Bosch DW but I love them. Easily my favorite and I won't buy a different brand.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

theflyingexecutive posted:

I believe demand letters are one of the covered services in MetLife's Legal Plan. See if you can get it through work, but buying it straight up costs something like $99/year. My wife and I used it for a real estate lawyer for our closing and it was pretty cool saving $3k.

If you need a bitchy letter sent, sure these types of things are good. Or for routine things like closing on a house.

We attempted to use a similar plan to deal with some flooding issues, and the results were not great. Even given the hourly rate we were paying, we got poo poo service... the lawyer basically just ghosted us in the end.

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



theflyingexecutive posted:

I believe demand letters are one of the covered services in MetLife's Legal Plan. See if you can get it through work, but buying it straight up costs something like $99/year. My wife and I used it for a real estate lawyer for our closing and it was pretty cool saving $3k.

Your closing would have been $3k for a real estate attorney? Mine's standard fee was $600. MetLife or similar would likely have been a significant savings though true :)

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

slidebite posted:

Does it work? Sell it for a pittance or give it away.

If it doesn't, take it to the dump.

Also, good choice. Some people don't like Bosch DW but I love them. Easily my favorite and I won't buy a different brand.

I have a bosch washer/dryer and a Miele DW, if the Miele dies I'll probably buy a Bosch too. Good to know!

PerniciousKnid
Sep 13, 2006

Verman posted:

Fun stuff in the world of home ownership.

I was leaving for an 8 day work trip last week. The furnace decided to stop running two days before I left.

Last year I replaced a faulty ignitor so I figured it wasn't the ignitor. The filter was clean. I cleaned out the inducer port and hose that goes to the pressure switch. I tested the switch and it wouldn't close so I assumed it was the switch. I ordered a new one, $140 later, but it wouldn't come in until after I left.

I showed my wife how to change it. It's easy, two screws, plug a hose into it, two electrical leads. Then turn the furnace on.

She replaces it and nothing. She can't get the furnace to fire. And of course Seattle weather takes a cold turn, gets into the 30s overnight. She's got space heaters running but shuts them off at night. During the day, not so bad, but at night she said it was really cold.

I tell her to call a pro. They end up not being able to come until the day I get home. The guy showed up, looked at the furnace, ran a few diagnostics, furnace fired right up. He switched the electrical leads on the switch but had to disconnect it because he didn't supply the part and couldn't install it. So I reinstalled it and he just gave me a thumbs up. He left 20 minutes after showing up, $400 more in his pocket.
The iron law of diy repair, no matter how many things you try before you give up, the repairman will fix it by doing the next thing you probably would've tried.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

nwin posted:

Question on a big oak tree in my front yard.

I took some pictures but I’m concerned how it’s leaning. I’d guess it’s got a 10-15 degree lean on it. I’m not worried about it hitting the house, but if it falls in the direction of the way it’s leaning, my leech field and septic system is probably going to be underneath it.

I’m not sure if that could cause damage or not, hence the question. We had a tree company out to cut some trees down and he said this one wasn’t a concern, but did say if it were to fall, the septic could be an issue.

He looked at it in the summer but now that the leaves are gone, it looks way worse to my untrained eye. At the minimum it needs trimmed, but if it’s a hazard I’d rather just pay the whole thing now and be done with it.



So we had an arborist come out today. The tree is fine and healthy, just old and in need of a trim.

Two options he gave us:

1) trim the deadwood for $750.
2) take the tree down to the stump and remove all the wood for $2400.

He said if we trim it, well have to do it again in a few years as the tree will find new branches to shed. If we wanted to cut it down, we’d obviously lose the shade it provides and it’s a huge oak, but it’s at the bottom of our driveway and it only shades the grass and not the house.

Even with the existing lean, he didn’t seem concerned or notice any telltales about it falling over any time soon.

Part of me is leaning towards just cutting it to the stump and being done with it, maybe planting a new tree near it after I can get the stump removed. It sheds a ton of branches that are a pain in the rear end and while trimming it would alleviate that, this oak has a million leaves that need picked up in the fall. Seems like a recurring cost of $750 every 5 years or just pay $2500 and be done with it for a while and not worry about the tree ever falling.

What do you think?

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


Personally I would never cut down a perfectly healthy tree. They do take money and time to maintain but they provide shade, animal habitats, are good for your yard and the environment, etc. I love all the trees in my yard, even the stupidly big silver maple that drops crap in my yard and is pushing up my driveway. $750 is about what I paid to trim a maple in my backyard 3 years ago and I don't foresee it will need another trim anytime soon. Money well spent imho.

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

I am sad for every lost tree and if all I had to do to keep one was trim it every few years I’d do it

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
Same. If it's a tree that doesn't post a danger to your house or cause too much hassle I'd say keep it but every home owners situation and feelings are different. It only takes a few seconds to remove a mature tree but it takes a lifetime or two to replace it.

I'm generally opposed to removing trees but our house had/has too many neglected trees that were never addressed and became unruly.

The 25' corkscrew willow that was growing against my roof and shedding debris straight into my gutters. It rested against my roof and rubbed my flashing when the wind blew. Had the arborists from the city take it down for $200 cash when they cleared near the power lines.

The young poplar in my side yard was maybe 25' tall and only 10' from my house, small enough to remove before it got too big and choked out my Japanese maple which I'd much rather have. Plus I just don't want any more poplars in my yard. Ever. I'm going to ask if my neighbor will let me remove the one she has growing in the wooded lot on the other side of our fence. They're such lovely trees.

We have a massive deodar cedar that was poorly topped due to power lines nearby and it's growing out vs up but I like it. The trunk is about 6-7' thick. It has two plum trees growing awkwardly beneath its largest branch and it's really weird because they're trying to push up through the cedar but they're by the road and the city has very strict guidelines around removing trees on a street. It's like someone planted these trees and had no idea what they would be like when they matured, and then nobody cared for them. I'd love to see the original photos of this 1955 house.

BIG-DICK-BUTT-FUCK
Jan 26, 2016

by Fluffdaddy

fknlo posted:

Awesome. What's going to be the best way to remove the old mortar? There seem to be a ton of different options from power to hand stuff.



Something like that?

That’s fine but probably overkill, cold chisels like that are typically for cutting/splitting bricks. Mortar comes off real easy, ye olde Hammer & prybar from harbor freight would be plenty, don’t spend much money. Wear safety glasses :mrgw:

E: this for $3 would be what I’d grab for the task
https://www.harborfreight.com/15-1-...0BoC3RUQAvD_BwE
Nice and thin to slid into cracks and get under the old mortar.

E2: grab a wire brush too and scrub thoroughly for any smaller fragments

BIG-DICK-BUTT-FUCK fucked around with this message at 12:06 on Feb 11, 2023

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

I will be mercilessly cutting down the 20-30 year old Bradford pear in my front yard as soon as I can, but I wish this wasn’t necessary to protect my property as well as the local ecosystem.

Tremors
Aug 16, 2006

What happened to the legendary Chris Redfield, huh? What happened to you?!

kreeningsons posted:

I will be mercilessly cutting down the 20-30 year old Bradford pear in my front yard as soon as I can, but I wish this wasn’t necessary to protect my property as well as the local ecosystem.

Bradford pears suck. Replace it with a better native alternative on your property.

Epitope
Nov 27, 2006

Grimey Drawer
We cut down a group of choke cherry, one quite large. Was a bummer to kill mature trees, but trying to help beat back the beast. The city is poisoning them in the green belts.

I would certainly keep that oak

Phil Moscowitz
Feb 19, 2007

If blood be the price of admiralty,
Lord God, we ha' paid in full!
I also would never cut down an oak, and I fully sympathize with the pain in the rear end it’s leaves can be.

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost
Also trees provide sound dampening which is really helpful if you live near a busy main road. I used to live on a new subdivision that had very few trees and believe me when I say this passing traffic was so loud that it echoed.

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

melon cat posted:

Also trees provide sound dampening which is really helpful if you live near a busy main road. I used to live on a new subdivision that had very few trees and believe me when I say this passing traffic was so loud that it echoed.

one thing i learned while doing some home-buying research is that there are certain negative health effects of living near a major road, but also living near trees/forests is thought to provide protection against the impact of noise, pollution, or whatever causes those negative health effects

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf
Just tore off some door trim to see what I have to work with to widen a doorway and discovered there are 0 nails holding in the top and latching side of the door frame to the door opening.

Basically I had load bearing door trim.

On the bright side it'll make widening it a lot easier :v:

Mustache Ride
Sep 11, 2001



Progress

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
That looks great! I'm going in the opposite direction.



There's an Easter egg in this pic for you Mustache Ride especially.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



fknlo posted:

Awesome. What's going to be the best way to remove the old mortar? There seem to be a ton of different options from power to hand stuff.



Something like that?

Ja, or a hammer drill/power chisel.

Beating on it with a rock hammer is excellent Zen therapy, if you have the time.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



nwin posted:

So we had an arborist come out today. The tree is fine and healthy, just old and in need of a trim.

Two options he gave us:

1) trim the deadwood for $750.
2) take the tree down to the stump and remove all the wood for $2400.

He said if we trim it, well have to do it again in a few years as the tree will find new branches to shed. If we wanted to cut it down, we’d obviously lose the shade it provides and it’s a huge oak, but it’s at the bottom of our driveway and it only shades the grass and not the house.

Even with the existing lean, he didn’t seem concerned or notice any telltales about it falling over any time soon.

Part of me is leaning towards just cutting it to the stump and being done with it, maybe planting a new tree near it after I can get the stump removed. It sheds a ton of branches that are a pain in the rear end and while trimming it would alleviate that, this oak has a million leaves that need picked up in the fall. Seems like a recurring cost of $750 every 5 years or just pay $2500 and be done with it for a while and not worry about the tree ever falling.

What do you think?

Trim it.

It'll be at least a decade before it will need it again.

Having mature trees on your property is a blessing. Plant more, even though you may not live long enough to witness them mature.

I hated cutting my diseased 100-YO ash trees down. In addition to other replacement trees, I planted a DED-resistant American Elm 25-years ago, it's doing great and about 40' tall. May do a horse chestnut next; they're dirty as all hell, but they need to be brought back & I love 'em.

Mustache Ride
Sep 11, 2001



StormDrain posted:

There's an Easter egg in this pic for you Mustache Ride especially.

Stickers!

May your future be free of sheetrock dust on your counters my friend.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Mustache Ride posted:

Stickers!

May your future be free of sheetrock dust on your counters my friend.

I just patched and taped it, minimal dust. A cabinet goes there so that's all the love it's going to get, just the rough fire taping. I'll be tearing it out in a couple years when I remodel the kitchen, and if not, I'll never see it again.

I now have proper circuiting to my bathrooms! 20amp, double duplexes at the master and hall bath. A second circuit for outlets behind each toilet for powered bidets. I opted for water resistant outlets for the toilet hookups for obvious reasons, I don't believe it would have been required. The WR GFCI wasn't cheap but not much more than a standard GFCI.

Also nice that the vanity outlet GFCI is inside. It was previously on a GFCI breaker, outside. Not ideal to reset in the snow. I would have preferred to put the actual gfci outlet in the hall bath from a social design perspective but this was more economical from a wiring perspective. I had maybe 5 feet or less left over out of the 100 foot reel I bought. I was sweating on the last run.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
Also behold. The worst corner cabinet. The door could have been inches larger to let me use more space and it doesn't even go to the corner.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

StormDrain posted:

Also behold. The worst corner cabinet. The door could have been inches larger to let me use more space and it doesn't even go to the corner.



Can't you just mount the hinges on the other side and have a normal cabinet door? If you can find a matching door I guess.

nbakyfan
Dec 19, 2005
Has anyone had to go full out war against ants in their yard? I have placed 4-6 terro stakes and the ants seemed to eat all the source without consequences. Just laid Amdro ant pellets this morning and those suckers were taking them down to their hill fast. One did crawl up my leg and bite me while I was watching in joy. Jerks.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Alright, you’ve all convinced me after speaking more with the arborist-the big white oak stays. I’m getting both the big trees out front trimmed and he’s going to clean up a few others.

El Mero Mero
Oct 13, 2001

nwin posted:

Alright, you’ve all convinced me after speaking more with the arborist-the big white oak stays. I’m getting both the big trees out front trimmed and he’s going to clean up a few others.

great decision.

fknlo posted:

Awesome. What's going to be the best way to remove the old mortar? There seem to be a ton of different options from power to hand stuff.



Something like that?

cold chisels and a masonry hammer will make short work of it. You want one that's thinner than your grout line. No need to use a lot of force to clear it.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

nbakyfan posted:

Has anyone had to go full out war against ants in their yard? I have placed 4-6 terro stakes and the ants seemed to eat all the source without consequences. Just laid Amdro ant pellets this morning and those suckers were taking them down to their hill fast. One did crawl up my leg and bite me while I was watching in joy. Jerks.

How long were the tero baits out? They take a lot longer than neurotoxins, but also work better because they stay alive long enough to bring the active agent back into their hives.

Sometimes you've just got a problem big enough that you need immediate correction with something like talstar, and that's all fine. But you'll probably still have ants around after the initial die-off and that's where keeping some tero baits out and around will take care of the rest of the problem in a few more weeks.

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TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
Are you trying to kill the ants in your yard? Because those are gonna be endemic. You might kill off a few nests, but there'll always be more ants migrating in from adjacent land.

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