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mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952




Katamari Democracy posted:

These are all molded color. So no paint and glue are necessary.

As far as the nibs I do the best I can to cut them using 3/4" Diagonal cutters. I picked up a file from harbor freight but I think that is absolute overkill and I was fearing it was filing way too hard.

Im not going to punish myself too hard because this is my first build. The breast plates alone took be a good hour to figure out because it kept falling apart when I was ready to move onto the next step. During that hour I learned to cut the nibs from the molding off and everything just 'Snapped' into place like it was nothing. So that is a good lesson learned.

That's a challenging kit for a first build, good work so far! I've done that, the torso is a joy to assemble it's just close enough to a human form to be really weird.

The real secret for dealing with nibs is to make one set of cuts to just get the piece off the runner, and then a second set of cuts where you can get the cutter perfectly flush with the part and leave no nib at all. The gunpla thread will eventually recommend you spend $50 for a set of top-quality nippers. They're worth it, but you can wait on those.

Welcome to another part of the hobby!

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Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

stealie72 posted:

Started my first 1/72nd plane while I wait on some weathering supplies for my Bulldog, and I have no idea how the 1/144 planes people post in here look so good.

Building the Airfix BF-109 and it's fun but. . . frustrating. The kit's not terrible, but it's hard to work with such tiny parts.

Six or more coats of thinned paint... Well that was MY trick. *shakes head*

I'm 3/4 done with a P-47. Hobby Boss makes some really slick molds. I ended up using zero filler. And while it's not "perfect". It's totally good enough.

therunningman posted:

Very cool! Are all the pieces in molded color? How do you deal with all the little sprue nibs?

So... we have a few ways of dealing with that. Most gunpla builders end up snipping "just outside" the part. Then using sandpaper, and in the end a glass file to get the nub completely removed. That said, Bandai uses undergating, or gating where the part will be hidden from other parts, so the nubs don't matter.

Modern Gunpla is ~amazing~. Everyone should try a model or two just to see what ~can be~.

Nerobro fucked around with this message at 04:57 on Feb 13, 2023

mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952




Nerobro posted:

So... we have a few ways of dealing with that. Most gunpla builders end up snipping "just outside" the part. Then using sandpaper, and in the end a glass file to get the nub completely removed. That said, Bandai uses undergating, or gating where the part will be hidden from other parts, so the nubs don't matter.

Modern Gunpla is ~amazing~. Everyone should try a model or two just to see what ~can be~.

On the first point, try what I suggested on your next kit. I get much cleaner cuts, even allowing that I use a God-hand nipper for the second, flush, cut.

And yeah, the model quality is generally ridiculous or better. I ran into a couple of RGs with issues lately, but on the whole even the lower-tier kits are excellent. I even did the $300 Perfect Grade Unleashed kit, and goddamn that's an amazing piece of work. I got my money's worth. It's engineered to be fun to build. The quality and tolerances are amazing. I only wish I'd thought to get water slide decals instead of using the stickers. I might actually do another one just for that little extra bit of perfection (my decals will not be perfect).

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

mllaneza posted:

On the first point, try what I suggested on your next kit. I get much cleaner cuts, even allowing that I use a God-hand nipper for the second, flush, cut.

Here I am being a wildman. I can't justify spending $75 on single edged nippers. So I am using IGAN-330's ($7.50) or Stedi MS-100's ($17), which get me ~real darn close~ then I shave with a NT blade knife. I get shivers when I read about people using wire cutters.

... course I remember being a little kid and twisting parts off of sprues.

then trying to use a hobby knife...

Katamari Democracy
Jan 19, 2010

Guess what! :love:
Guess what this is? :love:
A Post, Just for you! :love:
Wedge Regret
How can you tell the difficulty of the build from what I have done -- or any goons? Is there some sort of grade that I was missing from the box art?

Also I am flattered with the build I am doing compared to the build difficulty. I have not done this hands on since ever. I know when I was younger my dad and I build Zoids but he did all of the work.

mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952




Katamari Democracy posted:

How can you tell the difficulty of the build from what I have done -- or any goons? Is there some sort of grade that I was missing from the box art?

There is! The main series of Bandai kits are going to be High, Real, or Master Grade. HG and RG kits are 1/144 scale, MGs are 1/100. There's an entry level series now, and a few Perfect Grade kits. Generally, newer kits will be better engineered and have better instructions. HG kits come with stickers. In HG and RG kits you use fewer stickers for color and more for markings. Those lines also get dry transfer decals, which you tape down and rub to transfer the image to the model. I don't think Bandai does water slides, but third parties make those for many kits, especially MG and RGs.

Come on over to the gunpla thread, we have such sights to show you!


It helps that the EVA kits are some of the very best RGs.

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




mllaneza posted:

Come on over to the gunpla thread, we have such sights to show you!

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Neddy Seagoon
Oct 12, 2012

"Hi Everybody!"
If you want a cheap introduction to Bandai model kits, get yourself a 30 Minute Mission kit. They're 1/144-scale robots literally designed to be built in half an hour, with simple parts and construction but still creating something comparable to High-Grade Gundam kits.

Also recommend you get at least one or two of the accessory packs and customize the poo poo out of your new robot. :devil:


One of mine.

Neddy Seagoon fucked around with this message at 08:42 on Feb 13, 2023

Arquinsiel
Jun 1, 2006

"There is no such thing as society. There are individual men and women, and there are families. And no government can do anything except through people, and people must look to themselves first."

God Bless Margaret Thatcher
God Bless England
RIP My Iron Lady

Nerobro posted:

Here I am being a wildman. I can't justify spending $75 on single edged nippers. So I am using IGAN-330's ($7.50) or Stedi MS-100's ($17), which get me ~real darn close~ then I shave with a NT blade knife. I get shivers when I read about people using wire cutters.

... course I remember being a little kid and twisting parts off of sprues.

then trying to use a hobby knife...
A hobby knife will get you far if you're practiced enough with it. Of course getting to be that practiced requires ruining a lot of parts so you also get to be real good at filling and rescultping detail! Double win!

Tin Tim
Jun 4, 2012

Live by the pun - Die by the pun

grassy gnoll posted:

I'm hoping someone has a better solution for you, because I'm often in a similar position. That said, water immediately after application, or don't double up on acrylics. I switched to oil washes for anything I think I'll ever need to clean up for that very reason.

tidal wave emulator posted:

The only acrylic wash I use is citadel nuln oil, typically on top of an acrylic gloss, and yeah the answer is p much: clean up v quickly before it's dried, or at a push a q-tip with a small amount of acrylic thinner like vallejo on it to loosen the wash. Too much thinner, or rubbing too hard, will lift the acrylic gloss underneath.
Thanks to both of you. I'll try to paint & clean in one swoop as I go through the parts then

Lizard Combatant
Sep 29, 2010

I have some notes.
Well all of y'alls robots and tanks sure are mighty exciting, but tell me, can they compete with the unbridled thrill of paintin' a wagon?




Finally getting back into my N scale layout, track arrived yesterday, various buildings on their way.

This wagon was a 2nd hand find that the previous owner dipped in blue house paint by the looks of it, so i went with an old bare wood look right over the top.

Turns out i really enjoy weathering rolling stock, which is good news since I've got a whollllle bunch now.

Does anyone have any experience constructing a large* perspex container or lid? How much pain am i in for and is this something worth shelling out to get someone to do for me?

*As in like 3x5 feet, would an open box this size be just fragile as hell?

Lizard Combatant fucked around with this message at 17:54 on Feb 13, 2023

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes
Decided to take a break from miniatures painting and do a Airfix Spitfire.


Made a bit of a mess of the decals, and the weathering is a bit rubbish but overall I'm pretty happy with it.

And while we're on the topic of gundams. I don't know anything about the shows but the kits are spectacular and I really enjoy painting them up to look like real-ish warmachines.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

Bucnasti posted:

And while we're on the topic of gundams. I don't know anything about the shows but the kits are spectacular and I really enjoy painting them up to look like real-ish warmachines.

While I enjoy a few of the series. (I'm an anime dork.) Here's what you need to know. "Everyone is comprimised. The good guys and bad guys both have reasonable points. The bad guys are bad becuase they're willing to warcrime first. Don't cheer for anyone." There, you know enough about gundam to never need to watch it. :-)

The models are AMAZING. They got me back into model making. The P40's, the P61, the P47, the everything i've built, is a result of walking into a hobby shop, seeing a gundam club doing thier thing and realizing "I don't need to paint that?"

... and here I am.

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.
Sure, but what if you did paint it? Then it'd look even better. And add in some decals. And maybe a photoetch fret, and...

mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952




grassy gnoll posted:

Sure, but what if you did paint it? Then it'd look even better.

Can confirm painting Gundams is cool and good. This was my first attempt, I call the style "this thing flies through a lot of explosions".

Ensign Expendable
Nov 11, 2008

Lager beer is proof that god loves us
Pillbug

grassy gnoll posted:

Sure, but what if you did paint it? Then it'd look even better. And add in some decals. And maybe a photoetch fret, and...

Well now you have to put it in a diorama to really show off the effort.

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.
Speaking of terrible purchases to detail things, is there one of the 200ml Vallejo mud tubs that matches the dirt color and consistency of their Weathering Effects European mud, just without the leaves and garbage in it?

Lord Ludikrous
Jun 7, 2008

Enjoy your tea...

My Tiger is looking rather sorry for itself (and rather odd actually) now that I've supported it on a couple of tin cans and removed all the running gear to begin painting.



I'm aiming for a three tone camouflage scheme (dark yellow/dark green/red brown) on the hull and turret, but for ease of painting the wheels/sprockets/idlers will remain solely dark yellow, so I can at least crack on painting the wheels while I work on the turret and hull.



Something that has proven useful is that the turret came with zimmerit sheets already attached, so I was able to cut up and re-use some unneeded segments to apply to other areas. Something else I took advantage of was to make the area where the top deck separates from the hull a bit less obvious.





One thing I will say is that the Tamiya paints absolutely stink compared to their Citadel counterparts. I've been very fortunate the weather has been temperate enough for me to leave them outside for extended periods.

Neddy Seagoon
Oct 12, 2012

"Hi Everybody!"

Bucnasti posted:

And while we're on the topic of gundams. I don't know anything about the shows but the kits are spectacular and I really enjoy painting them up to look like real-ish warmachines.



That looks good enough for Harmony Gold to sue over. :v:

It's a Battletech joke about the Unseen designs taken from a bunch of anime mecha

Scut
Aug 26, 2008

Please remind me to draw more often.
Soiled Meat

veni veni veni posted:




I dunno I just thought it was neat. Wish I had bought more Ma.K back in the day it was a super cool series.

Hey fellow Maschinen Krieger fan! I got back into scale models because of Ma.K. If you can find the 'Gacha-nen' kits pick some up. They are really affordable 1/35 capsule kits.

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes

Neddy Seagoon posted:

That looks good enough for Harmony Gold to sue over. :v:

It's a Battletech joke about the Unseen designs taken from a bunch of anime mecha

Yeah I grew up watching those old Robotech shows and playing Battletech, so my taste is giant robits is more the tanks with legs look than the typical Gundam space knight look. I wish that Bandai made those old robotech designs in reasonably priced kits like the do for Gundams.

mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952




Bucnasti posted:

Yeah I grew up watching those old Robotech shows and playing Battletech, so my taste is giant robits is more the tanks with legs look than the typical Gundam space knight look. I wish that Bandai made those old robotech designs in reasonably priced kits like the do for Gundams.

They're about to launch a new line of Macross kits. They're not as cheap as an HG Gundam kit at $50, but they do transform.

https://www.gundamplanet.com/hg-1-100-yf-19.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uNavUcbitfE

Also, Hasegawa is getting into the game with a snap-fit Regult, they usually due more typical scale model kits for their Macross line.
https://www.gundamplanet.com/1-72-regult-standard-type.html

Ensign Expendable
Nov 11, 2008

Lager beer is proof that god loves us
Pillbug
Another day, another tiny tank. This one's 3D printed and allegedly modelled at 1:72 scale, but the detail is worse than some 1:100 ones I've done.







Arquinsiel
Jun 1, 2006

"There is no such thing as society. There are individual men and women, and there are families. And no government can do anything except through people, and people must look to themselves first."

God Bless Margaret Thatcher
God Bless England
RIP My Iron Lady

mllaneza posted:

They're about to launch a new line of Macross kits. They're not as cheap as an HG Gundam kit at $50, but they do transform.

https://www.gundamplanet.com/hg-1-100-yf-19.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uNavUcbitfE

Also, Hasegawa is getting into the game with a snap-fit Regult, they usually due more typical scale model kits for their Macross line.
https://www.gundamplanet.com/1-72-regult-standard-type.html
Oh dang, I love the YF-19. Might have to get that.

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.

mllaneza posted:

Also, Hasegawa is getting into the game with a snap-fit Regult, they usually due more typical scale model kits for their Macross line.
https://www.gundamplanet.com/1-72-regult-standard-type.html

I've built this one. It's a weird in-between for a regular scale kit and a Gundam, in that Hasegawa's engineering just isn't up to the same level as Bandai's. Goes together alright, and balances surprisingly well for such a tall and gangly thing. Downsides are you'll definitely need to do a lot of seam-filling, between a few fitment problems and stuff that should be continuous getting broken up for ease of manufacturing.

So, y'know, pretty Hasegawa. Not bad, but not great.

I really wanna know how the new Wave VFs are, on a similar subject.

Neddy Seagoon
Oct 12, 2012

"Hi Everybody!"

Arquinsiel posted:

Oh dang, I love the YF-19. Might have to get that.

I have the kit sitting in its box at home on my to-build pile (forgot to get an Action Base for it :doh:) and just looking through the instructions it looks like a pretty drat great kit. They walk you through building the Battroid Mode, then transforming to Gerwalk along with assembling the parts for that, and follow up with building the plane parts and transforming it into its Flight form.

Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010

mllaneza posted:

They're about to launch a new line of Macross kits. They're not as cheap as an HG Gundam kit at $50, but they do transform.

https://www.gundamplanet.com/hg-1-100-yf-19.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uNavUcbitfE

Also, Hasegawa is getting into the game with a snap-fit Regult, they usually due more typical scale model kits for their Macross line.
https://www.gundamplanet.com/1-72-regult-standard-type.html

therunningman
Jun 28, 2005
...'e 'ad to spleet.
Please stop making me want to buy these Japanese mecha kits. I've been back in the hobby for mere months and I already have years worth of kits waiting.

RillAkBea
Oct 11, 2008

therunningman posted:

Please stop making me want to buy these Japanese mecha kits.

No. :colbert:

The new Entry Grade series is a low cost way to experience the delights of Bandai and will only take you a half hour or so to make. No excuses.

sarujin_nz
May 1, 2006

Couple of months ago I posted about anyway to restore old decals. I got suggest Microscale Micro-Liquid Decal Film which I've used and finally had the time to finish my Revell F-15 1/48 scale.

Certainly not perfect, had plenty of issues with tearing decals - but the microscale decal film certainly assisted.

First go at a 1/48 scale plane.

NTRabbit
Aug 15, 2012

i wear this armour to protect myself from the histrionics of hysterical women

bitches




therunningman posted:

Please stop making me want to buy these Japanese mecha kits. I've been back in the hobby for mere months and I already have years worth of kits waiting.

https://i.imgur.com/SHFlicG.mp4

:getin: :negative:

NTRabbit fucked around with this message at 15:01 on Feb 15, 2023

stealie72
Jan 10, 2007
Using the wishlist feature on scalemates is helping me keep my stash out of my house. We'll see how long that lasts.

Lord Ludikrous
Jun 7, 2008

Enjoy your tea...

Work continues on the Tiger, the wheels are done. Although annoyingly I dropped a few by accident and chipped some painted off. Not too bad to be honest as its going to wear off through general use.



I've opted to add some additional weathering on the sprockets and idlers, while paint will wear off through use, it will hopefully be a somewhat realistic mix of corroded and bare metal.



All structural components are now based and coated with Dark Yellow. I'll start masking off to apply camouflage using the other colours.



While this affects any painted model to some degree I've noticed Dark Yellow is particularly dependant on lighting. I was worried at one point it had a bit of a green tint, but looking it at from other angles is the sand colour one would typically expect.

Arquinsiel
Jun 1, 2006

"There is no such thing as society. There are individual men and women, and there are families. And no government can do anything except through people, and people must look to themselves first."

God Bless Margaret Thatcher
God Bless England
RIP My Iron Lady
That seems to be accurate for German camo anyway. Dunkelgelb is a weird as hell colour.

Chuck_D
Aug 25, 2003
If it's Tamiya dark yellow, it does have a bit of a greenish tint. Too much for my eye, in fact, so I usually tone it back with a little flat brown or similar color. That said, you can drive yourself *mad* trying to find a perfect color match for anything as there are so many variables in the way colors are perceived by the eye. So, as long as it's close enough for you, enjoy and go nuts. :)

Edit to add: the tiger is coming along swimmingly.

NTRabbit
Aug 15, 2012

i wear this armour to protect myself from the histrionics of hysterical women

bitches




The first successful time travel expedition will record the correct paint and uniform colours and rivet count for every piece of clothing and equipment from Babylon to Berlin

tidal wave emulator
Aug 7, 2007

Go back far enough and you'll be able to get confirmation of a caveman walking up to another caveman putting the finishing touches a painting of a deer on a cave wall and sneeringly telling him he used the wrong shade of ochre to accurately depict the real animal.

FrozenVent
May 1, 2009

The Boeing 737-200QC is the undisputed workhorse of the skies.
You can identify the time travellers in a war zone because they’re carrying an 18% gray card, a Pantone scale and a photogrammetry ruler.

Phy
Jun 27, 2008



Fun Shoe

tidal wave emulator posted:

Go back far enough and you'll be able to get confirmation of a caveman walking up to another caveman putting the finishing touches a painting of a deer on a cave wall and sneeringly telling him he used the wrong shade of ochre to accurately depict the real animal.

Turns out the first sigh of "ugh, grog" was to a dude named Grog

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Lord Ludikrous
Jun 7, 2008

Enjoy your tea...

Thanks for the feedback, while I’m not too obsessed with historical accuracy I’m glad it’s the right colour. I’ve made further progress and have added the other colours onto the tank.





I haven’t got an airbrush so I’ve had to do this with spray cans and masking, and while not perfect I’m very happy with how it came out.

The only issue at the moment is there’s a few spots where it’s obvious I used blue tack to hold the mask away from the surface. Most are concealable with weathering or won’t be visible, but there’s a couple of very obvious ones on top of the turret. I’ve tried a couple of ways to conceal it but I’m going to have to do a light respray of that area.



A fly also decided to fly through the same area I was spraying and got entombed on the hull, but this won’t be visible with the turret on.

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