Key bits bolded:quote:§ 25-11-33 - EXISTING BUILDINGS. I thought it was bullshit as well but the electrician who did the work said that the city inspectors usually take the positions that: 1. If you pull down a bunch of drywall it is no longer a "minor" addition, alteration, or repair. 2. Removing and replacing large amounts of drywall alters the fire resistance of the structure, potentially negatively. 3. Putting a bunch of new screws into studs carrying old code electrical wire or plumbing carries a not-insignificant risk of piercing those wires and pipes since older codes weren't as restrictive about setbacks for wire/pipe holes through studs and putting shields over those holes. The second and third are pretty ehhhhh to me but I can't really argue with the first. Replacing large sections of drywall is pretty much the dividing line between a "minor" project and something bigger. It cascades from there: now you need to run new wiring for circuits in the affected walls, you probably have to open other walls to run that circuit so you have to replace those circuits too, many of the circuits are outlet circuits and those need an arc-fault breaker on them, you likely need a new panel to fit that breaker, now you are making a significant alteration to the electrical system, etc. It's also quite possible they just drew bad on the inspector and would have been fine with someone else. I didn't pry because the guy was clearly pretty drat salty about a small job becoming a huge one and letting him rant himself out seemed best.
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# ? Feb 23, 2023 21:24 |
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# ? May 30, 2024 02:12 |
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That's not i-codes or UCC so I have no idea. But I absolutely disagree with this: Shifty Pony posted:Replacing large sections of drywall is pretty much the dividing line between a "minor" project and something bigger. It cascades from there: now you need to run new wiring for circuits in the affected walls, you probably have to open other walls to run that circuit so you have to replace those circuits too, many of the circuits are outlet circuits and those need an arc-fault breaker on them, you likely need a new panel to fit that breaker, now you are making a significant alteration to the electrical system, etc. Just because your tore down the sheetrock in one room (which is not all that big of a deal to someone who actually knows what they are doing) doesn't mean you are anywhere within any reasonable distance from a complete re-wire and new panel. Unless the work is happening in a 1 or 2 room shack. That's a completely unreasonable expectation that would get any AHJ trying to push that under the i-codes absolutely destroyed in a UCC review board.
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# ? Feb 23, 2023 21:33 |
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I did not know about this review board. Just checked and we do indeed have one. I had asked the city about what the review process was told there wasn't anything they could do about it. I see I should have asked if there was anything I could do about it. Unfortunately I ran into this without the time or money to litigate/complain, but am more open to that now. Lessons learned.
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# ? Feb 23, 2023 21:37 |
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You don't even have to pull a permit to replace sheetrock where I am, it's such a minor repair, so none of that reasoning makes sense to me at all.
corgski fucked around with this message at 21:50 on Feb 23, 2023 |
# ? Feb 23, 2023 21:44 |
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Motronic posted:That's not i-codes or UCC so I have no idea. I am with you on this, there's more to the story we didn't get. Unreliable narrator.
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# ? Feb 23, 2023 21:46 |
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Johnny Truant posted:Painting effortpost time! Hoping PainterofCrap can weigh in. Are you sure none of this is plaster?
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# ? Feb 23, 2023 22:41 |
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Danhenge posted:Are you sure none of this is plaster? Yup, it's all drywall
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# ? Feb 23, 2023 22:52 |
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Looking again at the pics I want to reinforce whomever mentioned getting anything loose off. Hit it all with a good sharp scraper first. Some of those patches look rough.
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# ? Feb 23, 2023 23:10 |
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I found a mystery Smurf tube, I wonder where it goes
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# ? Feb 23, 2023 23:32 |
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Johnny Truant posted:Excellent, thanks! I know all the problem areas already, lol, so that part shouldn't be tough to identify them. Yeah, if it's solid then you can mud over the join. Remember though that premixed, air dry mud shrinks as it dries because it is literally drying. Water is coming out of it. So if you do a thin coat then even a shallow line like the wallpaper line may be hidden when the mud goes on then show through after it dries and require another coat or two. Nothing wrong with that, just good to be aware of it so you set your expectations accordingly.
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# ? Feb 24, 2023 05:26 |
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Vim Fuego posted:Yeah, if it's solid then you can mud over the join. Remember though that premixed, air dry mud shrinks as it dries because it is literally drying. Water is coming out of it. So if you do a thin coat then even a shallow line like the wallpaper line may be hidden when the mud goes on then show through after it dries and require another coat or two. Nothing wrong with that, just good to be aware of it so you set your expectations accordingly. I really appreciate all the advice. Hopefully I'll have some nice looking photos to share once the project is done! Gotta finish the bathroom project first though, I've gotta practice my back beveling for inner coping saw trim cuts...
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# ? Feb 24, 2023 13:34 |
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So I know how engineered hardwood floors 'work' and are installed etc, but I've never really seen how 'real' hardwood floors do it. Is it the same as engineered flooring but the tongue/groove profile is milled into the wood itself and it's uniformly the same material all the way through?
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# ? Feb 24, 2023 22:48 |
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VelociBacon posted:So I know how engineered hardwood floors 'work' and are installed etc, but I've never really seen how 'real' hardwood floors do it. Is it the same as engineered flooring but the tongue/groove profile is milled into the wood itself and it's uniformly the same material all the way through? I've never tried to install hardwood floors, but at least some of mine are probably 115-ish years old, mix of oak and what I assume is maple. They're just T&G.
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# ? Feb 24, 2023 23:10 |
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VelociBacon posted:So I know how engineered hardwood floors 'work' and are installed etc, but I've never really seen how 'real' hardwood floors do it. Is it the same as engineered flooring but the tongue/groove profile is milled into the wood itself and it's uniformly the same material all the way through? Yes; engineered wood floors parrot hardwood design.
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# ? Feb 25, 2023 02:57 |
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DaveSauce posted:Note to self: don't get a GE Profile Connect. Note to self: Never buy any GE product. I have a side by side fridge freezer and when the water is hooked up for the icemaker, it just overflows and creates stalagmites of ice all over the freezer. Also, the cover plate on the freezer fan rubs on the fan and I have to either push against it or pull it out to make the noise stop. This happens about every other day. I'd like to put some spacers over the fan cover, but there doesn't seem to be any easy way to get it off other than removing everything from the freezer and doing a lot of dismantling. Also, I bought a "new" GE water softener. It took me around 6 months to get around to installing it. When I installed it, I found that the tank had shifted during shipping because there was nothing inside to hold it in place. The top of tank is connected to all of the mechanisms, hardware, and electronics, so they had also shifted, but nothing seemed damaged. I started to hook it up and water came out of one of the pipes when I removed the cap. I contacted GE about the problem since it had a one year warranty and they told me it was the fault of the shipper because the shipper had turned the box on its side. Well, no poo poo. Fed Ex and UPS do not give a poo poo about "this side up" and GE knows that. They said since it was a shipping problem, I needed to take it up with Home Depot and it wasn't their problem. Home Depot was much more amicable, but they have a 30 day return policy and I was beyond that, so they couldn't help. I've spent most of my life in repairs and customer service for manufacturers of products (as opposed to distributors). If there is a problem with the product, I make it right with the customer regardless of whether they bought it directly from us or through a distributor. GE dumped the blame on Home Depot and Fed Ex and refused to jack poo poo about exchanging the unit. For that, they take the gold medal from UPS customer support as the worst customer support I have ever dealt with.
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# ? Feb 25, 2023 04:01 |
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I installed the same GE water softener in my old house. Always struck me as strange that the tank wasn’t secured in the salt receptacle as well. While Home Depot may say that their return policy is 30 days, they will accept returns for store credit wayyyy later than that. I’ve definitely returned unopened items after a year or maybe even more.
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# ? Feb 25, 2023 14:16 |
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We had a few oaks taken down that were a safety hazard to the house (not the other trees I posted earlier which are just getting trimmed). We had the stumps ground down but would ultimately like to plant another tree. Could we plant a tree near or on where the stump was ground, or would that be a bad idea? I’m guessing it wouldn’t work since the stump isn’t completely removed and there’s still a lot of roots in the area. Edit : google to the rescue. It’s not a good idea. nwin fucked around with this message at 14:48 on Feb 25, 2023 |
# ? Feb 25, 2023 14:29 |
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My house was built in mid 1980s, the basement some interior stud walls with drywall and some glued down commercial carpet. It also has a sup pump. My assumption is that it probably doesn’t have a vapor barrier underneath the slab, and that if I want to finish it that probably means I would want to install a proper subfloor.
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# ? Feb 25, 2023 17:29 |
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stupid puma posted:I installed the same GE water softener in my old house. Always struck me as strange that the tank wasn’t secured in the salt receptacle as well. Interesting that you had the same experience with the tank not being secured. Due to the water coming out of the valve assembly when I was installing, I had assumed that it was a return sold as new and whoever returned it did not put what I assume would be foam blocks back to secure the tank. Since I was out of options and didn't see any obvious damage, I went ahead and installed it. I recently used some water hardness test strips and it seems to be working well, so things worked out in the end. I'm just pissed about GE customer support shifting the blame on Home Depot and Fed-Ex and refusing to send me an exchange. We had some back and forth then they closed the ticket as resolved. On a related note, the water hardness test strips say that the water is soft, but I still don't get much lather while bathing or doing dishes. I'm really not seeing any difference at all from before and after installing the water softener other than that the test strips say that my water has gone from very hard to very soft. Is there some other factor that could affect the lather of soap? Edit: SE Minnesota. I've taken showers in hotels in Minneapolis and Rochester and the water is soft and lathery. I'm not far from either city, but not getting the same results. Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 19:18 on Feb 25, 2023 |
# ? Feb 25, 2023 19:15 |
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is there anything like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08BHMPZBH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (2-1/4" extended strike plate That maybe has a right angle lip? or sits more flush against the trim but is still extended? My PO put fancy trim around all the doors and it requires longer strike plates, but this one sticks out and i keep catching my hip on it. It's the right length, as the lip only pokes out the 1/4" past the bend, but i'd like something that has less jutting out, if that makes any sense.
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# ? Feb 25, 2023 19:27 |
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SkunkDuster posted:Interesting that you had the same experience with the tank not being secured. Due to the water coming out of the valve assembly when I was installing, I had assumed that it was a return sold as new and whoever returned it did not put what I assume would be foam blocks back to secure the tank. Since I was out of options and didn't see any obvious damage, I went ahead and installed it. I recently used some water hardness test strips and it seems to be working well, so things worked out in the end. I'm just pissed about GE customer support shifting the blame on Home Depot and Fed-Ex and refusing to send me an exchange. We had some back and forth then they closed the ticket as resolved. I’m in the Minneapolis metro. I don’t know much about this stuff but fwiw I had to crank that water softener pretty far over whatever the recommended setting was for my municipality hardness before I started to see fewer water spots on dishes and the water actually felt soft. I set it on pretty much the highest setting then slowly backed it down over time to dial it in. I want to say I had it set on 24 maybe? It’s been a few years.
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# ? Feb 25, 2023 19:40 |
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I would appreciate recommendations on some appliances, please. I've read through a fair amount of this thread but not all of it - enough to pick up that Samsung should be avoided, for example. I'm looking to buy an electric washer and dryer and an induction stove. The consensus earlier in the thread was Speed Queen for the washer/dryer, but I also saw various people saying they use a lot of water and energy and their capacity is low - is there a more recent best recommendation for these? The first place I always look when shopping for big items is Costco, but of course I'm willing to look anywhere. For the induction stoves, Costco only has two models that aren't Samsung, and those are both GE Cafe, and are advertised as smart stoves. I don't want to be dependent on an app or internet-of-things nonsense just to cook, I saw some complaining about the GE Profile ones just upthread. Otherwise they look like nice stoves, though. I've spent two decades cooking on mediocre stoves in various rental properties and I want a good stove that will last me for a very long time, so I could and get a Wolf or Miele if they're really that much better, but I expect a lot of that cost is just paying for the brand name.
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# ? Feb 25, 2023 19:50 |
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Over last 5 years I have bought the following: LG front load washer and dryer from Costco. The stackable warranty + cash back from Costco + Costco visa made it an easy choice for me at the time. We are happy with them and dog hair hasn’t killed them yet but make sure you get them level. My mother loves her speed queen. Bosch 800 Refrigerator. It supposedly has a better ice system that is less likely to die and doesn’t have a stupid window or water in the door. Bosch 500 Double Wall oven. Trying find a 27” double wall oven in 2022 was a poo poo show. I have been looking at induction cooktops, and it might be the thing I cheap out on because I don’t want pay for new countertops.
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# ? Feb 26, 2023 00:24 |
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My aunt bought a ge cafe gas range a year ago and absolutely loves it. We have the largest capacity Whirlpool washer and dryer for about 18 months and are happy with those.
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# ? Feb 26, 2023 00:54 |
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Kylaer posted:I would appreciate recommendations on some appliances, please. I've read through a fair amount of this thread but not all of it - enough to pick up that Samsung should be avoided, for example. I'm looking to buy an electric washer and dryer and an induction stove. The consensus earlier in the thread was Speed Queen for the washer/dryer, but I also saw various people saying they use a lot of water and energy and their capacity is low - is there a more recent best recommendation for these? The first place I always look when shopping for big items is Costco, but of course I'm willing to look anywhere. I have had a Samsung induction slide in range for 7 years. Love it. No issues at all, no repair calls, it's been great. Really really prefer the physical knobs it has for burner temp, and while it seems gimmicky the led "flame" under the pots is actually helpful. Ymmv of course, but I recommend it completely.
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# ? Feb 26, 2023 02:31 |
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I have a vented crawlspace (SoCal) that I’m looking to do some work in. I’m hoping to seal off some plumbing gaps through the flooring, along with some tidying work (junk left by previous contractors, etc.). It’s a pier-and-beam foundation, vented along the perimeter, with no vapor barrier installed. There are a lot of rocks on the ground when you crawl around - would it be safe to remove them? I assume they’re just random rock that was underground at time of construction (mid-60s), but it makes it annoying to crawl around with so much rock. Just not sure if there’s a downside to cleaning them out, like some sort of soil retention mechanism.
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# ? Feb 26, 2023 16:40 |
I'm also in the market for an induction stove and the consensus seems to be Frigidaire, although I can't say that I'm all that all that stoked about touch controls. Samsung ranges seem to be more of a luck-of-the-draw situation. Most are great, but if you get a lemon it really really sucks and Samsung's warranty techs are pretty universally panned as being useless. Of course theres a large selection bias at work there but still if we get one I'd get one from a dedicated appliance store that offers their own service contract. My main suggestion for washing machines is to NOT buy a front loading Whirlpool or Maytag (both are by the same company). They have made the indefensible decision to put the pump filter on the pump itself and to not provide an access door. You have to pull the entire washer out and disassemble them from the back in order to clean the filter: https://youtu.be/LWiEBkjFq_4 Shifty Pony fucked around with this message at 17:35 on Feb 26, 2023 |
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# ? Feb 26, 2023 17:32 |
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Shifty Pony posted:I'm also in the market for an induction stove and the consensus seems to be Frigidaire, although I can't say that I'm all that all that stoked about touch controls. I picked up an LG induction range, I very much like it. The knob controls are great. The touch buttons are meh, I'm glad I don't have only touch. Mostly they're fine, the timer ones are the worst, since I use them the most and you have to tap tap tap so times like, 8 minutes are the worst, it'll register a few taps as me holding it and jump to 10 then 20 minutes and I have to reverse it.
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# ? Feb 26, 2023 19:50 |
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I just adore trim work.
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# ? Feb 26, 2023 22:17 |
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I want to mount some pegboard in my utility room with 1x2 on a cinder block wall. Do I want to avoid or hit the mortar? And if it will be nothing heavier than mostly cordless hand tools, would Tapcon screws work fine, or do I want sleeve anchors? Also as I remove the motley collection of hooks the POs had installed, do I want to patch the screw holes left behind? And if so, what's appropriate?
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# ? Feb 27, 2023 17:24 |
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umbrage posted:I want to mount some pegboard in my utility room with 1x2 on a cinder block wall. Do I want to avoid or hit the mortar? And if it will be nothing heavier than mostly cordless hand tools, would Tapcon screws work fine, or do I want sleeve anchors? Personally if I could avoid securing anything to block I would. I'd be considering hanging the pegboard from the ceiling. Otherwise perhaps like expansion anchors for the block.
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# ? Feb 27, 2023 17:57 |
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umbrage posted:I want to mount some pegboard in my utility room with 1x2 on a cinder block wall. Do I want to avoid or hit the mortar? And if it will be nothing heavier than mostly cordless hand tools, would Tapcon screws work fine, or do I want sleeve anchors? Tapcons are fine, especially if you get some in the edge/middle of the blocks where they are solid. I've put plywood up on block walls with cut masonry nails and it worked really well, though not easy to remove.
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# ? Feb 27, 2023 18:51 |
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Had my fence damaged by high winds last month, opened an insurance claim, and it took forever to find a fence company that even got back to me. Fencing company didn't even consider repair, and I don't blame them. The whole thing needed replacing before the wind damage, the wind damage just moved up the schedule. 20k for approx. 250 linear feet of 6' cedar privacy fence. Insurance will give me $4060...well, $3060 technically, since there's a $1000 deductible. Again, I was going to have to get it replace soon, I was hopping next summer, not this summer, so technically ANY money is better than no money, still wish I was getting a little more.
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# ? Feb 27, 2023 20:01 |
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How much fence did your insurer write to replace? How many sections were down? They won’t scope to replace it all unless it can be shown that it can’t be repaired (i.e. every post is rotted out)
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# ? Feb 27, 2023 23:21 |
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DrBouvenstein posted:Had my fence damaged by high winds last month, opened an insurance claim, and it took forever to find a fence company that even got back to me.
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# ? Feb 28, 2023 00:45 |
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The light in my shower burned out. When I went to replace it I removed the cover and discovered it looks like this: Anyone know what that is or how to replace it? Some light tugging failed to loosen it and it doesn't seem to want to rotate. It's placed directly above the shower drain so I'm reluctant to take a screwdriver to it and start disassembling it before I have a candidate for replacement. I've never seen a light like that before so I don't even know what term to google for.
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# ? Feb 28, 2023 01:22 |
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That's just an led flat ceiling fixture. When they burn out you have to just replace the fixture, usually.
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# ? Feb 28, 2023 01:24 |
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LLSix posted:The light in my shower burned out. When I went to replace it I removed the cover and discovered it looks like this: Looks like it's this one. The model number on the picture of the circuit board is the same "YAC-06" https://www.amazon.com/Dimmable-Equ...ls%2C106&sr=1-2
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# ? Feb 28, 2023 01:42 |
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SpartanIvy posted:Looks like it's this one. The model number on the picture of the circuit board is the same "YAC-06" That looks like it. Thank you.
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# ? Feb 28, 2023 02:36 |
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# ? May 30, 2024 02:12 |
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That reminded me of how at Christmas my mom said she didn't trust LED bulbs because my dad bought a $1 keychain flashlight from Harbor Freight and it broke, like 5 years later.
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# ? Feb 28, 2023 05:35 |