|
Also if you're marking lots of boxes the same may I suggest getting someone to make a branding iron for you rather than faffin' around with the laser cutter?
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2023 16:24
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 4, 2024 12:03 |
|
|
And over in the 3D printer thread, they were yelling about people who leave laser machines unattended and burn down their house. So you should plan on sitting next to this thing for the full 24 hours or however long it's gonna run.
|
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2023 18:53
|
|
|
ryanrs posted:And over in the 3D printer thread, they were yelling about people who leave laser machines unattended and burn down their house. So you should plan on sitting next to this thing for the full 24 hours or however long it's gonna run. A coworker of mine burned out a room that way. Caught it before it took out the whole house luckily. He's exactly the type of old timer 'tinkerer' that would burn his house down.
|
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2023 19:13
|
|
|
oXDemosthenesXo posted:He's exactly the type of old timer 'tinkerer' that would burn his house down. But now with lasers! Seriously, if you told me that future-me would burn down my garage because of my dumb geezer fusion experiments, I'd be ok with that.
|
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2023 19:22
|
|
|
Also lots of the "affordable" laser cutters are just inherently dangerous. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-9hIXT8DMUU
|
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2023 19:24
|
|
|
CommonShore posted:Also lots of the "affordable" laser cutters are just inherently dangerous. I thought this was going to be a StyroPyro video where he strips one down to make a laser gun. Here's a cheap medical laser from ebay. It's terrifying. If cheap laser cutters are like this, run.
|
|
#
?
Feb 23, 2023 21:07
|
|
|
Does one need a cyclone setup when using a dust extractor in a wood shop? I'm looking at the Makita VC4210L. I have a Dust Deputy bucket cyclone I use with my current Shop Vac. Is it still helpful with a dust extractor, or does the automatic filter better function eliminate the need for a discrete cyclone?
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2023 02:13
|
|
|
Cyclone setup is to separate the heavier material from the dust collection which makes you dust bags and filters last much longer. It's never required, but is often helpful.
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2023 03:49
|
|
|
My first filter lasted 3-4 years maybe, replaced it a couple months ago. Homemade cyclone too, thien baffle actually. Actually the whole vacuum is sorta homemade at this point. Replaced the motor once too.
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2023 05:41
|
|
|
A few years ago my old neighbour was throwing out furniture and I got one of these cabinets for free: https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1161236899/vintage-jentique-midcentury-teak Mine has a number of scuffs and damaged bits of the finish and I was looking for advice on where to start on fixing it without changing the look. It appears to be mostly teak veneer over plywood, but I think I only have damage to the finish, not the veneer itself. I can try to upload photos later of some of the scratches if that would help. It doesn't have the legs anymore, including the planks running between the legs. I've thought about finding new (slightly shorter) legs for it, but I imagine the planks would've helped spread the weight of the cabinet around a bit more evenly?
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2023 15:49
|
|
|
Elsa Maria posted:It doesn't have the legs anymore, including the planks running between the legs. I've thought about finding new (slightly shorter) legs for it, but I imagine the planks would've helped spread the weight of the cabinet around a bit more evenly? Those planks are called skirts and are a standard and traditional way to build a base like that, they prevent racking and ripping the legs out when the case gets shoved sideways and front to back. E: in traditional construction the skirts are mortised into the legs for strength.
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2023 16:43
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:What you might try instead is to make your stencil in real life and apply it by hand. You have two main options. The first of course is paint -- just spray it through the stencil, it'll take like 5-10 seconds per box (plus setup time, but you can set up a shield that will prevent overspray without needing to tape stuff for each box). The second is to "paint" the wood with ammonium chloride, remove the stencil, then use a heat gun on the painted area. This will burn specifically the part of the wood that's been dosed with the ammonium chloride. CommonShore posted:Also if you're marking lots of boxes the same may I suggest getting someone to make a branding iron for you rather than faffin' around with the laser cutter? Thank you guys, these are great ideas and 100% the right way to go about it. As for outsourcing it, I live in a 3rd world country and a small beach city at that so I'm sure it will be a PITA to find any shops with engravers near me.
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2023 18:56
|
|
|
Janitor Prime posted:Thank you guys, these are great ideas and 100% the right way to go about it. As for outsourcing it, I live in a 3rd world country and a small beach city at that so I'm sure it will be a PITA to find any shops with engravers near me. no problem! And there's nothing wrong with the laser cutter if you want to have a laser cutter for doing other things, but a CAD-driven tool like a CNC or 3d printer or laser cutter is useful primarily for its versatility. I have a 3d printer that supports all kinds of my shopnanigans. If you don't need a thing that can spit out anything, it's easier and less frustrating to go old school.
|
|
#
?
Feb 24, 2023 20:20
|
|
|
Olothreutes posted:I thought this was going to be a StyroPyro video where he strips one down to make a laser gun. Here's a cheap medical laser from ebay. It's terrifying. If cheap laser cutters are like this, run. My buddy's got one of these shitboxes with no enclosure or anything covering the spicy parts and i get deeply uncomfortable every time he switches the awful thing on. Didn't believe anyone would just sell one like that on Amazon like that's a reasonable product but welp guess there's nothing stopping anyone Last time I saw that guy he was also installing a mig welder in his trash-choked basement so I'm pretty sure I'm going to roll over there and find he and his house are just gone some day Also yes laser cutters are phenomenal for one-offs and very small batches, way too slow and expensive for cranking out dozens of the same thing over and over. At a rough estimate my 100w could do a roughly 1/8" deep scan of a 13x8 space on softish wood in about 15 minutes, but that's just laser-on, not counting setup time. and yes it does light itself on fire with some regularity, and that's exactly the process most likely to do it when it hits the same little pitch vein or whatever over and over in rapid succession. Also sometimes a random transformer or something just loving explodes out of nowhere, maybe that's less of a problem on fancy stuff like Glowforges idk but it's definitely not a problem I've encountered with spraypaint or a hot stick A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 08:18 on Feb 25, 2023 |
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2023 08:13
|
|
|
I haven’t had much time for shop table shenanigans this week, but made some progress on the router table end that will close off the nose end of the kayak. I’m making an interlocking piece that uses a few chunks of cherry like alignment dominos and some notched plywood. I’m going to build the enclosed lower base up to it and use a pair of threaded 5/16 feet from Home Depot to just ensure no sagging. The weight is carried by the interlock and then the glue and screws eventually as well. Shove it into place and it will carry most of the weight. The lower box is going to house the router and lift as well as provide for a bit of soundproofing and eventual dust collection.  Then just build an enclosed box below it for the kayak, put them together, and adjust feet so there’s no sag with the cast iron top and router lift in there. Just some dude making a basic shop table. 
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2023 14:23
|
|
|
Don't worry, this thread is a safe space for people suffering from the urge to massively overbuild things. I think it just dang neat.
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2023 17:04
|
|
|
Sockington posted:Just some dude making a basic shop table. Of ask the things in the shop to overbuild, your main work table is the best choice. I definitely wish I'd spent more time making sure mine were flat and level.
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2023 20:11
|
|
|
I bought a drawing tablet a few weeks ago, and immediately discovered that my office workspace is in no way ergonomically correct for drawing. So I set about building a stand for the tablet, which is now completed.    It's made entirely from scraps from previous projects; the only thing I had to buy was more epoxy, since my old bottles have somehow disappeared. The materials are sapele, cherry, purpleheart, and 1/4" steel rod. They're held together by epoxy (for the rods), screws, and a bit of Titebond for the base. The finish is General Finishes' Salad Bowl Finish, mostly on the basis that it was handy when I sat down to apply finish.
|
|
#
?
Feb 25, 2023 21:10
|
|
|
Just Winging It posted:Don't worry, this thread is a safe space for people suffering from the urge to massively overbuild things. I think it just dang neat. Thanks. I don’t share this many places so it’s nice to hear some feedback. Pretty much here and a few friends. I have been out in the shop all day. The router end has a pair of spalted maple legs because why not.  Closed in a few more bits and jammed the kayak under it for now with the rear end hanging out. Drill press for the old router spot  Router got new router spot   I have some finesse work to do, but things are headed in a direction that’s making me pretty happy. I’ve got a section of T-rail that’ll put on the inbound side of the router across the oak.
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2023 01:16
|
|
|
Edit: Dead Deal  BeAuMaN posted:30-pk of Ravinte 5-inch Black Stainless Steel Kitchen Drawer Pull Cabinet Handles for $8.10 after clipping 70% off coupon on product page: BeAuMaN fucked around with this message at 07:30 on Feb 26, 2023 |
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2023 01:22
|
|
|
Was back in my old town and used the opportunity to mill the wood for my workbench Used 10x2s and 8x2s and it may just be a little bigger than what I had in mind, but it's rock solid.    Need to re-print the mount for my other work light and then it should be good to go. Later down the line, I'll add one of these: https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/workshop/workbenches/vises/69583-pipe-vise?item=15G0103
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2023 02:40
|
|
|
Hey guys long time. I made a serving board (well “making”). I cut my glue up into a circle… I sanded, raised the grain with just a little water. I key it dry and noticed a split between my glue ups in a spot. It’s big for a split but maybe just x-acto blade width? Assuming it doesn’t get worse, is there a good way to “fill” it in a food-safe way? 
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2023 22:06
|
|
|
Epoxy. But, and I hate to say this, that is likely to get worse as the board is exposed to moisture. When I have a split along the grain in a cutting board or similar the way I fix it is to slice the thing in half right at the split, joint both edges to perfect flatness, and then glue it back together.
|
|
#
?
Feb 26, 2023 23:53
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:Epoxy. You’re probably not wrong but I don’t really have the tools /resources to do that. Best I can hope for is maybe a fill. So what epoxy do you recommend? Keep in mind it’s gonna be used with food.
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2023 01:01
|
|
|
Feenix posted:You’re probably not wrong but I don’t really have the tools /resources to do that. Best I can hope for is maybe a fill. I can't specifically recommend one as I haven't needed one (I use Marine West epoxies but they aren't food safe) but https://www.amazon.com/food-safe-epoxy/s?k=food+safe+epoxy There's lots, apparently.
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2023 01:07
|
|
|
Crossposted from the tool thread. I have a Ridgid TS3650 table saw. I bought it used a couple months ago and hadn't used it much before this weekend. I was ripping down a bunch of pine 1x material that had been in my garage for months or years.The TS3650 does not have a blade guard or a riving knife. The saw came with a zero clearance insert and a Diablo thin kerf blade with lots of teeth (50ish). The blade was clearly meant for crosscuts and plywood, but I don't really want to change it and foul up the zero clearance insert. A couple of times I ripped some boards that seemed to be pretty unhappy with their lot in life and the kerf pinched together and stalled my saw. This in turn popped the breaker in my garage. I do not like this scenario. I don't know that a blade change would necessarily clear up my problem. What options do I have to prevent this in the future? Some kind of current-limiting device that stops the saw at 13A or something? I suspect a riving knife would be a help here, but I don't think I can add one to my saw in a cost-effective way. I see that Microjig makes a universal fit splitter contraption. There appear to be two versions: a plastic unit for about $20 and a steel one for $40. Would either of these solve my problem? If yes, is it worth the extra coin for the metal version? What I'm really looking for is any first-hand accounts of either of the Microjig splitters. The cost is not an issue, but the reviews on Amazon make it sound like setup is kind of a pain in the rear end.
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2023 19:35
|
|
|
Wallet posted:Haven't had a reason to scroll saw much lately but I pulled it out to make some cases for my girlfriend's jaw harp collection over the weekend. I (mostly) didn't gently caress up anything noticeable and I think they turned out alright.
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2023 19:52
|
|
|
PBCrunch posted:Crossposted from the tool thread. I have a microjig MJ Splitter. It worked great, for a while, until I discovered my blade was very slightly misaligned, and once I re-aligned it the splitter was instantly useless. This was my fault, though, it just means by gawd align your blade properly before you use the jig to install the splitter into your brand new zero-clearance insert. Aside from that: popping the breaker here is not the problem. The problem is that any time your cut piece grips the blade you are in extreme danger, as this leads directly to violent kickback. You must prevent wood from binding on the blade. Whether that's via a riving knife or some variety of splitter or whatever, that's up to you and what you can fit on your saw and make work: but you must not allow this situation to occur and do not rely on stalling the motor as a safety device.
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2023 21:32
|
|
|
You could also have your kid stand at the outfeed side and jam shims in as in comes through.* *source: being that kid. Growing up in the 80s was fun.
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2023 21:39
|
|
|
Yeah I've had a friend tap in shims while resawing on the bandsaw, but it's far less dangerous to put your hands behind the blade of a bandsaw than putting your hands anywhere near the blade on the table saw. The bandsaw doesn't suck you in and it doesn't kick the workpiece back. if you're cutting a piece on the table saw that you know is likely to bind you might have one of these bad ideas: cut a slot, turn off the saw, shim, and now you have the problem of starting the saw either with the blade already in the kerf (NO) or raising the spinning blade into the kerf of a piece on the table (ehhhh, doesn't seem good to me, you can't see what's happening and you could invite kickback) or lowering a piece onto the blade while it's spinning (NO) and so yeah I don't think any of these ideas is a good plan.
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2023 21:45
|
|
|
PBCrunch posted:Crossposted from the tool thread. A decent rip blade (Diablo from HD are great for the price) will help with the breaker tripping because the wood is too hard or thick or dense and it might slightly help with the pinching because it’s a bit wider and more aggressive kerf, but really you need a splitter. That being said I’d still get a rip blade-it’s night and day ripping with a real rip blade vs a fine crosscut blade.
|
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2023 21:51
|
|
|
does that thing really not even have a slot for a riving knife lmao that's some steam era poo poo. was the seller getting rid of it because it was too much work to clean all the workhouse orphan out of the insides? I have no constructive advice other than that my lovely dewalt contractor saw was $25 on Craigslist and came with no rip fence, no elevation knob, but it had a riving knife and the rest could be improvised. A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 22:36 on Feb 27, 2023 |
|
#
?
Feb 27, 2023 22:12
|
|
|
Someone in the other thread helpfully pointed out that this saw DID come from the factory with a spreader device. The previous owner didn't include it in the sale. I remember asking the seller if it had a blade guard or riving knife and he told me no. Unfortunately Ridgid no longer makes parts for the saw. So I can look at ebay for used units I guess. I don't rip down lumber very often and it was my first time doing so with this saw. How terrible of an idea is it to law a track saw down on a couple of boards (one board acting as a track support) and rip it that way until I can cobble together something for my current tables saw. I really like the saw otherwise. The previous owner had it pretty dialed in. It cuts nicely other than the incidents over the weekend. I think this may have been the first time I've cut pine with it. I've had two old Craftsman saws and I've worked in a couple of car stereo shops that had ancient Delta Unisaws. That's pretty much all of my experience with table saws. I think my current saw is the first one I've ever used made after 1970, and this means I've never actually used a saw with a spreader, riving knife, or blade guard.
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2023 00:37
|
|
|
quote:a track saw down on a couple of boards (one board acting as a track support) and rip it that way until perfectly cromulent imo. That's how I plan to edge joint when I have the room to cut my 2x12s for a benchtop
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2023 04:22
|
|
|
anyone have a 36" Sawstop PCS? I'm looking at upgrading from my jobsite saw but I have some awkward space constraints in my garage. basically, the back 6 six feet of the garage is raised about 6 inches from the rest which complicates storing any large machines. I could fit it at the back between the cars pretty easily with the table extending over the raised shelf, but I'd have to take off the legs due to the difference in height what I'm trying to figure out is if the legs are just for balance/leveling or if storing it without the legs for an extended period of time could lead to sagging and possibly warping the rails
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2023 08:35
|
|
|
The parts of the table that are cast iron are just the main saw body and the 2 16" or thereabouts cast iron wings that go to either side of it, which are through-bolted and not particularly supported by the rails. The rest of the right side (unless you spring for their integrated router table, which is also a cast iron part) is a torsion box wrapped in melamine and the legs are mainly there for balance.
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2023 08:50
|
|
|
I've got a 52, yeah those little legs are barely even attached and don't really support much weight, and the rails are fuckin huge. it'd be nice to have something under that extension but they're not really necessary and honestly the way Sawstop set them up they seem decorative more than anythingPBCrunch posted:Unfortunately Ridgid no longer makes parts for the saw. So I can look at ebay for used units I guess. I don't rip down lumber very often and it was my first time doing so with this saw. How terrible of an idea is it to law a track saw down on a couple of boards (one board acting as a track support) and rip it that way until I can cobble together something for my current tables saw. I really like the saw otherwise. Should be just fine, tracksaw can do the job it's just a little more awkward A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 16:46 on Feb 28, 2023 |
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2023 16:40
|
|
|
stabbington posted:The parts of the table that are cast iron are just the main saw body and the 2 16" or thereabouts cast iron wings that go to either side of it, which are through-bolted and not particularly supported by the rails. The rest of the right side (unless you spring for their integrated router table, which is also a cast iron part) is a torsion box wrapped in melamine and the legs are mainly there for balance. A Wizard of Goatse posted:I've got a 52, yeah those little legs are barely even attached and don't really support much weight, and the rails are fuckin huge. it'd be nice to have something under that extension but they're not really necessary and honestly the way Sawstop set them up they seem decorative more than anything awesome, thanks yeah I'd roll it out and put the legs back on when it's in use. maybe I'll get some perforated square steel tube and turn them into adjustable legs
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2023 16:49
|
|
|
Give me some thoughts on a design decision here. I'm making my second Burr oak table. It will be timber frame construction and like a buffet/counter dimension. Here's the flattened slab with my contrasting maple bow ties laid out on it. I might shrink the larger bow tie a bit idk. What I intend as the front of the table is to the right here.  (Forgive the chaos I'm in the process of cleaning up after the flattening rn) The question is how to handle this crotch void:  Pencil for scale. It's going to get epoxy, obviously, but I'm entertaining inlaying some more pieces of contrasting wood, probably Manitoba maple, in the section with the pencil and pouring clear epoxy in. Thoughts? I can't decide if it will look good or look messy.
|
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2023 22:13
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 4, 2024 12:03 |
|
|
on an aesthetic level, there's a lot of bar counters and tacky turquoise fills where they just dump stuff loosely in a hole and pour epoxy around it like that and they look trashy as poo poo IMO. It's the cheapest and easiest way to fill a void but that's a big project worth spending some time on (unless you're specifically going for the cheap bar counter look), and it's not like you're trying to crank out eight more this week. I'd be more inclined to carve out the hole into a more regular shape and fill it completely with a bigger inlay piece, something a little more intentional. give it a lil tuxedo shirt for the bowtie or run a big curved spline down the whole length stitched together with a bunch more butterfly joints IDK
A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 23:15 on Feb 28, 2023 |
|
#
?
Feb 28, 2023 22:58
|
|