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His Divine Shadow posted:Doesn't aluminum get fatigued and fail rather suddenly? You probably don't need to worry about aluminum fatigue in a pressure vessel like an air compressor of any design thought has gone into it at all. Generally yes aluminum does not have a "flattening" of the fatigue curve that could be considered "infinite life" like steel tends to exhibit. Probably not a concern for an air compressor though. Here's a graph to illustrate this: 
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Feb 24, 2023 19:22
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Just going to re-post here. I made the mistake of buying the 18GA stapler 4 days earlier and I did not get the battery included.BeAuMaN posted:For anyone that's on the 18V ONE+ Ryobi train:
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Feb 25, 2023 00:17
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CarForumPoster posted:You probably don't need to worry about aluminum fatigue in a pressure vessel like an air compressor of any design thought has gone into it at all. Generally yes aluminum does not have a "flattening" of the fatigue curve that could be considered "infinite life" like steel tends to exhibit. Probably not a concern for an air compressor though. But what if I want to cycle my compressor five times an hour for the rest of the lifetime of the universe?
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Feb 25, 2023 00:35
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CarForumPoster posted:You probably don't need to worry about aluminum fatigue in a pressure vessel like an air compressor of any design thought has gone into it at all. Generally yes aluminum does not have a "flattening" of the fatigue curve that could be considered "infinite life" like steel tends to exhibit. Probably not a concern for an air compressor though. Good to know, thanks. As for myself I built my own compressor using an old steel refridgerant tank. It was pretty new (2000+) and rated for 26 bar (6-8 bars is what most compressors run at).
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Feb 25, 2023 11:42
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Also my japanese tsumura bar arrived
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Feb 25, 2023 11:48
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His Divine Shadow posted:Also my japanese tsumura bar arrived Watch out for the『KICK BACK』
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Feb 25, 2023 16:33
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I need a compact tool pouch for work. Tools I carry with me: calculator, measuring tape, a couple of markers, pen, work knife, small notepad, DEB4 deburring tool. I was considering this Rack-a-Tier belt or this one from Occidental. Never had a tool belt that inserts into pants back pocket- I kind of like that idea but never once used something like it. Ergonomics and comfort are very important since I spent a lot of time maneuvering in cramped spaces. Any suggestions?
melon cat fucked around with this message at 23:23 on Feb 26, 2023 |
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Feb 26, 2023 23:20
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Jesus, actually scored a Ridgid jointer for $300 on craigslist. I had to drive 5 hours round trip but I'd do that again in a heartbeat. Bed is rusted and the knives have a couple dings, but the motor runs and everything else looks more than workable. Give the bed a little WD40 scotch brite/sanding (or any other recommendations?), a new belt not permanently oblong, and a new set of jointer knives I think I'm gonna be happy. I had pretty much resigned myself to spending entirely too much on a benchtop jointer, pretty giddy I got my primary target at such a low price. Bob Mundon fucked around with this message at 14:59 on Feb 27, 2023 |
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Feb 27, 2023 02:47
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I have a Ridgid TS3650 table saw. I bought it used a couple months ago and hadn't used it much before this weekend. I was ripping down a bunch of pine 1x material that had been in my garage for months or years.The TS3650 does not have a blade guard or a riving knife. The saw came with a zero clearance insert and a Diablo thin kerf blade with lots of teeth (50ish). The blade was clearly meant for crosscuts and plywood, but I don't really want to change it and foul up the zero clearance insert. A couple of times I ripped some boards that seemed to be pretty unhappy with their lot in life and the kerf pinched together and stalled my saw. This in turn popped the breaker in my garage. I do not like this scenario. I don't know that a blade change would necessarily clear up my problem. What options do I have to prevent this in the future? Some kind of current-limiting device that stops the saw at 13A or something? I suspect a riving knife would be a help here, but I don't think I can add one to my saw in a cost-effective way. I see that Microjig makes a universal fit splitter contraption. There appear to be two versions: a plastic unit for about $20 and a steel one for $40. Would either of these solve my problem? If yes, is it worth the extra coin for the metal version?
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Feb 27, 2023 16:40
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Pine is notorious for doing that, and a more powerful saw can kickback those same thin pieces like a spear. A splitter would definitely improve performance. I'm thinking $20 is chump change here, but you do you.
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Feb 27, 2023 18:52
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A riving knife or at least splitter is the most important safety feature on a table saw for most cuts. $40 it's very reasonable. Plastic sounds like a toy in this application and I wouldn't consider it. A proper ripping blade or at least a general purpose blade would help too, but the fine tooth one should work if you go really slow. Is the blade clean? If it's caked in sap and resin it'll perform horribly. Did it only come with the zero clearance insert? I keep a wide mouth one around for the less thin blades. And yeah, like ^ said cheap pine almost always has internal stresses from the kiln dying process and as soon as you cut it it'll bend all over. If the bending pinches the blade you get a stalled blade. There's a woodworking thread with very helpful folks if you want more specific answers.
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Feb 27, 2023 19:14
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PBCrunch posted:The TS3650 does not have a blade guard or a riving knife. This reads like you believe it didn't come with one which I find really surprising because that's not that old a model so I looked it up. It did originally come up with a blade guard/splitter combo, the goober of an original owner must've thrown them out. I'd echo agreement that you should 100% get a splitter on that saw, I personally wouldn't recommend anyone buy a table saw without at least a splitter. 50 teeth on a 10'' blade sounds like a combination blade by the way, not a fine cut plywood blade which would be 60+. Personally I have a newer but similar saw and I swapped it to 220 to avoid the breaker issue. You probably would've said if you had a 220 plug available but figured I would mention it in case you do and aren't aware the saw can be converted to run on it.
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Feb 27, 2023 20:48
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drat, you're right. My saw did have a blade guard and a spreader from the factory and I did not know that. Unfortunately Ridgid doesn't make the replacement parts anymore. I remember asking the seller if the saw had a riving knife or blade guard, and he said no.
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Feb 28, 2023 00:41
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I'd get a 24 tooth ripping blade. Use a push block, and consider taking a pass at half the depth first before going for the full rip (will help relieve some stress and reduce the amount of material removed). But yeah, splitter or bandsaw. Big box store pine sucks.
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Feb 28, 2023 02:03
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What would be your recommendations for this jointer bed and fence? I was able to get most of it off with WD40 and scotch brite / 400 grit wet sandpaper, but definitely a few spots still discolored. The bed is smooth to the touch and other than visually I wouldn't know it still had rust on it. Should I attack it some more to at least get all the active rust off, and if so what would you guys recommend? Or since it's smooth just wax it and call it good? Cleaned up the outfeed table, fence and infeed are how it came. Fortunately got a pretty hefty discount on account of the rust. I think the flash is making the outfeed worse than it looks in person, but definitely can still see brown rust spots.  Bob Mundon fucked around with this message at 18:51 on Mar 3, 2023 |
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Mar 3, 2023 17:42
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I rip plenty of construction lumber with 7 1/4” 40-60t blades and no riving knife and have never had it stall, so I wonder if it’s something else. Maybe double check the fence to make sure it’s square and in alignment to the blade, make sure your technique is proper, and that the saw isn’t running off a skinny extension cord, because the rapidly grown spf stuff shouldn’t really be stalling a table saw
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Mar 3, 2023 18:37
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Bob Mundon posted:What would be your recommendations for this jointer bed and fence? I was able to get most of it off with WD40 and scotch brite / 400 grit wet sandpaper, but definitely a few spots still discolored. The bed is smooth to the touch and other than visually I wouldn't know it still had rust on it. Should I attack it some more to at least get all the active rust off, and if so what would you guys recommend? Or since it's smooth just wax it and call it good? imgur tries to link you to the "album" for the photo you posted, so you have to right click -> Copy Image Address on the image itself. It should look something like this: https://i.imgur.com/6zQC3c8.jpeg If you paste that into the SA post window it'll auto-add img tags.
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Mar 3, 2023 18:41
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melon cat posted:I need a compact tool pouch for work. Tools I carry with me: calculator, measuring tape, a couple of markers, pen, work knife, small notepad, DEB4 deburring tool. I was considering this Rack-a-Tier belt or this one from Occidental. Never had a tool belt that inserts into pants back pocket- I kind of like that idea but never once used something like it. Ergonomics and comfort are very important since I spent a lot of time maneuvering in cramped spaces. Any suggestions? I feel like that pants pocket pouch would bust the pockets out really quickly, and you can’t move it around for mobility in tight spaces. Belted tool bag is kinda nice because you can take it on and off easily, and it’s a bit more modular. I’d do the Klein nylon belt, what ever belted cell phone case for the calculator/notepad, and Occidental 4-in-1 or whatever you think is best. Should be like $80-90 all told E: this is my setup 90% of the time, I’m a remodeler: Occi 4-n-1 w tape, knife, combo square, pencil, Phillips/torx bit. Klein bag holds fasteners or whatever I’m using, plus the carabiner for tape 
lil poopendorfer fucked around with this message at 18:51 on Mar 3, 2023 |
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Mar 3, 2023 18:45
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more falafel please posted:imgur tries to link you to the "album" for the photo you posted, so you have to right click -> Copy Image Address on the image itself. It should look something like this: https://i.imgur.com/6zQC3c8.jpeg Was on my phone, that works on desktop though, thanks. So, any tips on getting that last bit of rust off? Just don't want to remove material if possible.
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Mar 3, 2023 18:49
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Maybe try Bar Keeper's Friend? Edit here's some internet rando using bkf on their jointer, seemed to come out ok: https://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/9401-rust-removal-bar-keepers-friend/ HappyHippo fucked around with this message at 20:33 on Mar 3, 2023 |
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Mar 3, 2023 19:49
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Fine or extrafine steelwool or scotchbright with a bit of 3-in-1 or other light oil.
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Mar 3, 2023 20:01
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Already did like I mentioned, scotch brite and wd40 was my first step and it got the bulk off, but needing something more aggressive if I'm gonna get those spots. Again wondering what any recommendations would be for stepping up the aggressiveness with removing material from the table top. Those spots may be deep enough if have to though, in which case I guess I'll just have to keep it maintained to keep it from spreading.
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Mar 3, 2023 20:15
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lil poopendorfer posted:I rip plenty of construction lumber with 7 1/4” 40-60t blades and no riving knife and have never had it stall, so I wonder if it’s something else. You get hella more torque with a 7 1/4" 40 tooth blade than a 10". Even better ripping with a 24 tooth. Bob Mundon posted:What would be your recommendations for this jointer bed and fence? I was able to get most of it off with WD40 and scotch brite / 400 grit wet sandpaper, but definitely a few spots still discolored. The bed is smooth to the touch and other than visually I wouldn't know it still had rust on it. Should I attack it some more to at least get all the active rust off, and if so what would you guys recommend? Or since it's smooth just wax it and call it good? It's a jointer, dude. Rust on a jointer bed means 'character'. Mount that fence, make sure the outfeed is even with the knives, and square it up, You're good to go.
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Mar 3, 2023 20:27
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I’d be worried anything that’s aggressive enough to get the rust off would ruin the flatness. Maybe a drywall hand sander—the kind without the foam backing— with a 600 grit sandpaper. Keeping it well oiled ought to stop the rust from progressing, no? E: Mr. Mambold posted:You get hella more torque with a 7 1/4" 40 tooth blade than a 10". Even better ripping with a 24 tooth. Ah good point. Here I thought I was just being a cheapskate haha
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Mar 3, 2023 20:31
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Bob Mundon posted:What would be your recommendations for this jointer bed and fence? I was able to get most of it off with WD40 and scotch brite / 400 grit wet sandpaper, but definitely a few spots still discolored. The bed is smooth to the touch and other than visually I wouldn't know it still had rust on it. Should I attack it some more to at least get all the active rust off, and if so what would you guys recommend? Or since it's smooth just wax it and call it good? Evaporust makes a gel that sticks well to cast iron, I've used it on some flash rusted vertical machine tool surfaces with great success. Shake the container before you buy it if you are lucky enough to find it locally. Make sure it does not feel like water with something shaking around in it, as sometimes the gel separates into water like evapo rust and a weird yellow turd looking snake. Wipe or brush some on, then put some cling film / seran wrap over it to keep it moist for a few hours. Come back with a rag and wipe the rust right off. As long as you keep the surface uniformly wetted, it will not remove any material except the rust. If there are any air bubbles / places on the flat surface where there is an air/gel interface it can etch a little line in the surface as it forms a weird little self replenishing corrosion cell there. Follow up with a flat oil stone, the sort used for sharpening knives. Float it on a film of WD-40 and move it around in figure eights. By feel you can tell when you've found a ding or raised spot.
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Mar 3, 2023 21:28
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Commodore_64 posted:Evaporust makes a gel that sticks well to cast iron, I've used it on some flash rusted vertical machine tool surfaces with great success. Shake the container before you buy it if you are lucky enough to find it locally. Make sure it does not feel like water with something shaking around in it, as sometimes the gel separates into water like evapo rust and a weird yellow turd looking snake. Wipe or brush some on, then put some cling film / seran wrap over it to keep it moist for a few hours. Come back with a rag and wipe the rust right off. As long as you keep the surface uniformly wetted, it will not remove any material except the rust. If there are any air bubbles / places on the flat surface where there is an air/gel interface it can etch a little line in the surface as it forms a weird little self replenishing corrosion cell there. Follow up with a flat oil stone, the sort used for sharpening knives. Float it on a film of WD-40 and move it around in figure eights. By feel you can tell when you've found a ding or raised spot. Came to post evaporust.
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Mar 3, 2023 21:32
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Will check that out, thanks. Less concerned with how it looks I just don't want active rust hanging around on the beds. But yeah do not want to impact flatness, this isn't my bandsaw table after all.
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Mar 3, 2023 22:00
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melon cat posted:I need a compact tool pouch for work. Tools I carry with me: calculator, measuring tape, a couple of markers, pen, work knife, small notepad, DEB4 deburring tool. I was considering this Rack-a-Tier belt or this one from Occidental. Never had a tool belt that inserts into pants back pocket- I kind of like that idea but never once used something like it. Ergonomics and comfort are very important since I spent a lot of time maneuvering in cramped spaces. Any suggestions? lil poopendorfer posted:I feel like that pants pocket pouch would bust the pockets out really quickly, and you can’t move it around for mobility in tight spaces. Belted tool bag is kinda nice because you can take it on and off easily, and it’s a bit more modular. This looks like a nice setup. The other thing that comes to mind when you mentioned confined spaces is to look at what people who do tech work on film sets use, particularly the jobs with funny olde timey nautical names (riggers, grips, gaffers). Their jobs also often have cramped quarters due to setting (indoor shoots), other people's equipment ("touch my lights and I will kill you"), and restricted sight lines (as explained by Christian Bale to the director of photography on the set of Terminator Salvation). Their gear storage must be high mobility, easy to access, and must still secure the tools and equipment in more than one orientation. For mobility and ease of access, the best solution is chest rigs.  https://shopmtn.com/products/led-chest-rig Chest rigs are less likely to snag on stuff while you're scurrying around an attic compare to belt mounted stuff, and you can always access the entire contents of the bag with either hand while in cramped spaces. Another plus is that you will look like a huge dork while wearing it. You may not appreciate wearing this if you're working in hot weather. Tool pouches designed for these use cases also typically have some sort of retention. A sealable flap, zipper, etc. It's real discouraging while crawling through an attic to hear the tinkling and thumps of your tools and hardware escaping an inverted open pouch on your tool belt. This little fella is an option for wearing on a regular belt or even attaching a shoulder strap to the d-rings and wearing like a cross body pouch or DSLR rig.  https://shopmtn.com/products/tech-pouch And the comedy option is to wear a kilt with cargo pockets. 
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Mar 3, 2023 23:19
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I need a pressure washer that: 1) Is electric 2) Has a tank I'm using it in an enclosed space with no access to continuous water and only electricity (wall plug) power. Doesn't need a huge tank or a lot of pressure (whatever that means), I'm just doing some heavy cleaning. What am I looking for?
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Mar 5, 2023 06:35
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Ryobi makes an 18v low pressure washer that can draw from a tank (like a syphon)
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Mar 5, 2023 13:33
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Mar 5, 2023 20:53
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NomNomNom posted:Ryobi makes an 18v low pressure washer that can draw from a tank (like a syphon) W/ battery, charger, and accessories: https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-O...1860K/319921209 Tool Only: https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-O...21850/317531019 That said, it depends on what OP is cleaning. If he just needs something to spray water, then good. But if he needs any actual power to blast anything away, 600 PSI might not be enough. I don't own this unit personally but I've read mixed reviews on it; it just depends on what you need it for.
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Mar 5, 2023 20:55
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BeAuMaN posted:There's a few versions of that but you'd probably want the latest one that claims to have up to 600 PSI: I have this sprayer and it's fine for spraying dog poop off of sidewalks or cleaning out air filters but I wouldn't try to clean the siding on my house with it. Gonna try it out as a garden sprayer this summer.
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Mar 5, 2023 20:59
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PRADA SLUT posted:I need a pressure washer that: Can you give us more info on the application and location?
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Mar 5, 2023 21:25
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Dunno why I never thought of this before but i stuck some insulated wire in my drill and kinda shaped it like an beater and it was whipping up hot mud in a mud pan, smooth as pudding.  
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Mar 6, 2023 00:13
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CommonShore posted:I have this sprayer and it's fine for spraying dog poop off of sidewalks or cleaning out air filters but I wouldn't try to clean the siding on my house with it. I know the Ryobi 40V pressure washers will also draw/siphon from a bucket of water, but that also gets spendy ($600+). Generally speaking I've heard with most corded electric pressure washers if you're drawing from a non-pressurized source of water (like a bucket or lake), then you need a transfer pump. However, I guess some units are designed with that in mind, but not most?
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Mar 6, 2023 01:23
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lil poopendorfer posted:Dunno why I never thought of this before but i stuck some insulated wire in my drill and kinda shaped it like an beater and it was whipping up hot mud in a mud pan, smooth as pudding. Oh that's a good idea, gonna steal that when I gotta do a fuckton of mudding when I paint my dining room and kitchen
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Mar 6, 2023 02:31
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slurm posted:Can you give us more info on the application and location? Bathtubs, bicycles, and patio furniture.
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Mar 6, 2023 02:33
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Johnny Truant posted:Oh that's a good idea, gonna steal that when I gotta do a fuckton of mudding when I paint my dining room and kitchen If you gotta do a fuckton, go ahead and spring for a paddle.
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Mar 6, 2023 05:06
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PRADA SLUT posted:Bathtubs, bicycles, and patio furniture.
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Mar 6, 2023 05:34
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