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TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
I want to make some shelves for a friend of mine, basically just a board with some nice brackets to secure to the studs in their apartment. I'm thinking three pieces: the shelf board itself, a triangular piece with a dovetail cut into it, and then a third piece that has a dovetail slot in it, and that's screwed to the wall through the slot. I've used this approach in the past; it's nice because the screws are hidden but are easy to access if you need to.

The challenge is that I won't know where the studs are until it's time to install, so I'm not sure how to attach the brackets to the board. The simple answer is to screw through the top of the board into the triangular piece. I've done this in the past, and it works, but it's a little aesthetically displeasing. Any suggestions for other approaches I could use?

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alnilam
Nov 10, 2009

You could do whatever and then use drywall/plaster anchors

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

You could fasten them with dowels and glue if you don't want it to show. Another alternative would be to counterbore the screws and plug the holes. If you're careful to match the grain, the plugs barely show.

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

I want to make some shelves for a friend of mine, basically just a board with some nice brackets to secure to the studs in their apartment. I'm thinking three pieces: the shelf board itself, a triangular piece with a dovetail cut into it, and then a third piece that has a dovetail slot in it, and that's screwed to the wall through the slot. I've used this approach in the past; it's nice because the screws are hidden but are easy to access if you need to.

The challenge is that I won't know where the studs are until it's time to install, so I'm not sure how to attach the brackets to the board. The simple answer is to screw through the top of the board into the triangular piece. I've done this in the past, and it works, but it's a little aesthetically displeasing. Any suggestions for other approaches I could use?

Studs are almost always going to be 16" on center.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe

alnilam posted:

You could do whatever and then use drywall/plaster anchors

I suppose, but I've never been comfortable relying on anchors for any substantial load. I don't know what they'd plan to store on these shelves, but the goal is to give them more storage options in a small, cramped apartment.


Deteriorata posted:

You could fasten them with dowels and glue if you don't want it to show. Another alternative would be to counterbore the screws and plug the holes. If you're careful to match the grain, the plugs barely show.

Yeah, I suppose this would work. A bit tricky to do in the field (they live 30 miles away), but not impossible. How strong is Titebond in tension, anyway?

Stultus Maximus posted:

Studs are almost always going to be 16" on center.

I'm well aware, but I'm also well aware that any time you rely on this being the case you are nigh-on guaranteed to be wrong.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Stultus Maximus posted:

Studs are almost always going to be 16" on center.

Unless your house is old, and then they're just wherever the gently caress they felt like.

alnilam
Nov 10, 2009

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

I suppose, but I've never been comfortable relying on anchors for any substantial load. I don't know what they'd plan to store on these shelves, but the goal is to give them more storage options in a small, cramped apartment.

Yeah true, highly depends on how big of a shelf and what they're being used for. Going into studs is definitely best when it works.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

PBCrunch posted:

I would like more information about cutting box joints on a long board on a table saw (without wheeling the saw outside so the workpiece doesn't hit the garage ceiling).

It sounds like you're picturing cutting box joints on the short edge of a plank, but I said the long edge. E.g. the plank is held horizontally against the fence of your sled.

You can also do the short edge, if your plank is reasonably sized, e.g.


And that's also not really doable on the miter saw.

This kind of jig works for short or long edges.


It's hard to find many projects where someone did it on the long edge, but here's one:

Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 00:35 on Mar 8, 2023

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Made a wall trellis out of some mahogany scrap for my Syngonium so I can stop having to trim it constantly.


Also needed a dumb little scrap table for it to live on (it's a bit jank but it's mostly hidden by my desk anyway).


Also made this cute boy while I was doing stuffs out of some other scraps.

El Spamo
Aug 21, 2003

Fuss and misery
I have carving tools, but wood burning is fun. Tung oil finish on this guy so it's a food-safe tool and about 2 (wobbly) tablespoons.


That Works
Jul 22, 2006

Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy


Leperflesh posted:

It sounds like you're picturing cutting box joints on the short edge of a plank, but I said the long edge. E.g. the plank is held horizontally against the fence of your sled.

You can also do the short edge, if your plank is reasonably sized, e.g.


And that's also not really doable on the miter saw.

This kind of jig works for short or long edges.


It's hard to find many projects where someone did it on the long edge, but here's one:


I think the question stands though, is there a way to do this for boards so that you're not hitting the ceiling to put them flush on the fence like you have pictured?

CommonShore
Jun 6, 2014

A true renaissance man


That Works posted:

I think the question stands though, is there a way to do this for boards so that you're not hitting the ceiling to put them flush on the fence like you have pictured?

how low is the ceiling and/or how long are the boards and/or why are you doing box joints on pieces that long? Like if you're making a coffin or something just use a rebate

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



That Works posted:

I think the question stands though, is there a way to do this for boards so that you're not hitting the ceiling to put them flush on the fence like you have pictured?

Not with a table saw, unless involving herculean effort also. Best move to either handsaw or a router setup. Maybe a jigsaw too hypothetically, since it has a movable base.

Fellatio del Toro
Mar 21, 2009

shoutout to all of my subscribers, you guys make this channel possible. in todays video im going to show you how to make an integrated workbench for your table saw with a rotating table saw mount,

That Works
Jul 22, 2006

Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy


CommonShore posted:

how low is the ceiling and/or how long are the boards and/or why are you doing box joints on pieces that long? Like if you're making a coffin or something just use a rebate

My own ceiling in my basement shop is probably only about 5-ish feet above the top of the table saw.

I'm not doing box joints on them myself, but was curious if there was a solution for that problem if it ever did came up. Just personal curiosity. I do want to make a tablesaw box joint jig but admittedly probably am not gonna use it for giant pieces myself.

Rufio
Feb 6, 2003

I'm smart! Not like everybody says... like dumb... I'm smart and I want respect!
You do it the same way it has been done for hundreds of years, with a hand saw and chis, and that works just fine.

A Wizard of Goatse
Dec 14, 2014

the ceiling isn't the main reason standing a 5' board on end and passing it through a table saw is a dumb idea. dado blades are great for mass-producing, like, boxes. or drawers. things smaller than a person

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


That Works posted:

My own ceiling in my basement shop is probably only about 5-ish feet above the top of the table saw.

I'm not doing box joints on them myself, but was curious if there was a solution for that problem if it ever did came up. Just personal curiosity. I do want to make a tablesaw box joint jig but admittedly probably am not gonna use it for giant pieces myself.
I built a big stand on top of the workbench for the dovetail jig when I had to dovetail a ton of 8' long stuff for a weird job. You could make a box joint version of a router dovetail jig?


A Wizard of Goatse posted:

the ceiling isn't the main reason standing a 5' board on end and passing it through a table saw is a dumb idea. dado blades are great for mass-producing, like, boxes. or drawers. things smaller than a person
With a tenoning jig we used to cut tenons on 7' bed rails all the time standing them up on end. I wouldn't do it without a pretty beefy jig tho.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

I would do box joint cuts or dovetails with a router if I needed to mass produce it. I'm not super happy about using or mounting a router horizontally in terms of safety but I'd still prefer that over balancing a five foot plank on its short edge and moving it through a dado stack with a sled, lol.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


There is a time to bring the work to the tool and a time to bring the tool to the work, for sure.

Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(

https://i.imgur.com/6fSkorW.mp4



:shrug:

if it's even longer and won't fit between the floor joists, I'll use the slot mortiser to cut box joints instead. Or just use different joinery.

Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 13:03 on Mar 9, 2023

Fellatio del Toro
Mar 21, 2009


:discourse:

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

set the blade angle to 45 degrees and then build a jig that holds the work pieces at 45 degrees and you can get another foot or so of length with only a significantly larger amount of danger

ColdPie
Jun 9, 2006


Should've sent a poet

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Hypnolobster posted:

https://i.imgur.com/6fSkorW.mp4



:shrug:

if it's even longer and won't fit between the floor joists, I'll use the slot mortiser to cut box joints instead. Or just use different joinery.

Lmao, but of course. Does this thread rule or what.


Leperflesh posted:

set the blade angle to 45 degrees and then build a jig that holds the work pieces at 45 degrees and you can get another foot or so of length with only a significantly larger amount of danger

Needs a certified danger amount assessor in here stat!

That Works
Jul 22, 2006

Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy


Hypnolobster posted:

https://i.imgur.com/6fSkorW.mp4



:shrug:

if it's even longer and won't fit between the floor joists, I'll use the slot mortiser to cut box joints instead. Or just use different joinery.

A Wizard of Goatse
Dec 14, 2014

luv 2 go to the log store

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

I'm not a good geoguesser, where is that

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003

Leperflesh posted:

I'm not a good geoguesser, where is that

The log store. It was right there in the post. :D

I used my woodworking skills to plug some headstock holes, route a new bridge pickup hole, and generally not gently caress up this project. It’s in music threads, but it was really only a success due to what I learned and watched here. 4 string bass to really really long guitar.


A Wizard of Goatse
Dec 14, 2014

Leperflesh posted:

I'm not a good geoguesser, where is that

Baltimore? It's the log store

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


A Wizard of Goatse posted:

luv 2 go to the log store


Lots of those logs look like they’re gonna be, uh, spalted

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Sockington posted:

The log store. It was right there in the post. :D

I used my woodworking skills to plug some headstock holes, route a new bridge pickup hole, and generally not gently caress up this project. It’s in music threads, but it was really only a success due to what I learned and watched here. 4 string bass to really really long guitar.




That is.....intriguing. You left the bass pickup in? How does it sound?

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
I made a box with wheels and filled it with smaller boxes

Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010
I built a cherry bedframe. I had built the headboard about five years ago and bolted it to a basic steel frame. I figured it was time to build the rest of the bed. There's a bit of contrast between the headboard and the footboard due to the wood darkening for the past few years, but that should even out with time.





TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
Nice work!

And yes, the color will even out with time. It always struck me as weird that cherry gets darker when exposed to the sun.

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
If wanted to put a piece of t track in MDF, is there specific adhesive I would want use in addition to screws?

more falafel please
Feb 26, 2005

forums poster

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

Nice work!

And yes, the color will even out with time. It always struck me as weird that cherry gets darker when exposed to the sun.

I thought it was more oxidation than sun exposure, that would explain the darkening anyway. I think its the same reason purpleheart will turn brown.

That Works
Jul 22, 2006

Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy


more falafel please posted:

I thought it was more oxidation than sun exposure, that would explain the darkening anyway. I think its the same reason purpleheart will turn brown.

Cherry darkening accelerates in sun exposure for sure. It could also be some oxidation but light is a big factor.

Source: ive seen contrast in pieces partly covered with a cloth blocking the light.

Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010
It's a bit of both, sun definitely makes it quicker and like you said, a coaster or lamp on the table in the sun will leave a spot. However, a cabinet in my windowless bathroom is still darkening, albeit slowly.

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Fellatio del Toro
Mar 21, 2009

so I'm wanting to build some cedar outdoor furniture. looking around online for inspiration and most of the stuff I'm finding is a bit on the "screw some 2x4s together" side of basic. I'd like to practice some proper joinery so I'm trying to design something myself

would it be foolish to expect mortise and tenon, bridle, and cross lap joints to hold up with just some Titebond III on a piece that is going to stay outside year round in an area where temps vary by 100 degrees throughout the year? are there better options for joints that aren't too difficult or glue that I should be considering, or should I just bite the bullet and add some screws?

Fellatio del Toro fucked around with this message at 21:26 on Mar 12, 2023

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