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My 10 year old is excited about 3D printing, but is mostly excited about printing mini figures for D&D. How bad an idea is it to have a resin printer as my first printer? I think I have a space in the garage I can clear out with a window nearby, so fumes won't be as big a problem. I'm probably looking at entry level (<$300'ish) if that makes a difference on ease of use.
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Mar 7, 2023 09:33
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Geburan posted:My 10 year old is excited about 3D printing, but is mostly excited about printing mini figures for D&D. How bad an idea is it to have a resin printer as my first printer? I think I have a space in the garage I can clear out with a window nearby, so fumes won't be as big a problem. I'm probably looking at entry level (<$300'ish) if that makes a difference on ease of use. if your 10 year old can be trusted with every chemical under the kitchen sink and in the garage, then sure. if not, start with FDM.
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Mar 7, 2023 13:01
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We just implemented an adult supervision rule at our house. The kid can use my resin printer, I just have to be there, they wear the same PPE and no messing around. They do their own thing entirely with model files and slicing, though I do point out "That's going to fail this way right here"
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Mar 7, 2023 13:39
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queeb posted:I inhereted a old ender 3 pro from a buddy that isnt working, it basically hits like 5mm or so height and then layer shifts like 2 inches over, on almost every print. Where shoudl I start diagnosing that? Seems like some kind of short, it always happens at the same z height. Tried different SD cards, different files, different slicers. happens on about 90% of prints. Drivers could be overheating, although I think that issue only affected a limited batch of 3v2s and not the pros. Regardless, an issue with the drivers/mainboard could conceivably cause layer shifting like you're describing if you can't find a mechanical cause.
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Mar 7, 2023 17:01
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EVIL Gibson posted:if your 10 year old can be trusted with every chemical under the kitchen sink and in the garage, then sure. I would be handling the printer. They would be on the computer making/editing models. At least until they were a bit older and has observed me a number of times. My understanding is that the prints are safe once fully cured, right?
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Mar 7, 2023 18:13
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Geburan posted:I would be handling the printer. They would be on the computer making/editing models. At least until they were a bit older and has observed me a number of times. My understanding is that the prints are safe once fully cured, right? Yeah, if you’re handling the curing process then there’s no risk to your kid, curing the resin makes it inert
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Mar 7, 2023 18:24
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I was asked to help out at a trade show last week due to my experience building our 3D printer at work. The O&P industry is still in the early stages of adoption, but there are quite a few companies trying to get into it. Pretty cool to see some printers with typhoon hotends and that kind of thing. At some point a rep from Mosaic came by the booth and shot the poo poo for a while. He asked some questions about our printer (it is used to make check sockets for lower extremity prosthetics) and talked a bit about the Array robot they created and how they are focusing on printing orthotics. I knew that Mosaic sounded familiar and by the time I checked out their booth I recalled hearing about the Palette filament changer. Their orthotics were impressive, too. Some neat FDM materials that seemed to be foam-like, etc. I started looking into them a bit more once I got home. Their products are pretty cool, just way out of the range I'd be comfortable spending on a hobby like this. It didn't take me long to discover that the "rep" I was talking to was actually the CEO of Mosaic. 
Ohvee fucked around with this message at 20:30 on Mar 7, 2023 |
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Mar 7, 2023 19:01
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I bought a used Ender 3 Pro. My first "useful" print was a bracket to hang up a Makita battery pack charger that doesn't have keyholes for wall mounting. To use the printed object, one removes the little rubber feet from four holes on the bottom of the charger and then puts these four little printed pegs into those holes. The pegs I printed don't fit into those holes. They are close enough that I think the model from Thingiverse is correct. Is there anything special I need to know about sanding the pegs so that they fit? I want them to be snug, but a little room for some hot glue probably wouldn't hurt (or would it)? What do I do so that future prints match the intended dimensions more closely?
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Mar 7, 2023 20:17
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PBCrunch posted:I bought a used Ender 3 Pro. My first "useful" print was a bracket to hang up a Makita battery pack charger that doesn't have keyholes for wall mounting. To use the printed object, one removes the little rubber feet from four holes on the bottom of the charger and then puts these four little printed pegs into those holes. Build slop in to whatever you print or get used to post-processing. At some point it's just not possible for an angry hot glue gun working with hundreds of layers using spiffy glue in it to be precise below a certain tolerance. Be aware of the properties of what you're post-processing. For example I primarily do mostly resin printing for models. If I ever do *ANY* sanding/filing, I do it either underwater or with a spray bottle to keep the area saturated. Airborne resin is what would be considered A Bad Thing even once it has been cured to inert status.
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Mar 7, 2023 20:28
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PBCrunch posted:I bought a used Ender 3 Pro. My first "useful" print was a bracket to hang up a Makita battery pack charger that doesn't have keyholes for wall mounting. To use the printed object, one removes the little rubber feet from four holes on the bottom of the charger and then puts these four little printed pegs into those holes. If you grab a model like that in the future, print one peg, or slice the model so you're only printing test pieces where there are interfaces If it's too snug of a fit, cool, scale the model to 99% and try again, repeat as necessary *may not work for all models depending on how they fit together
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Mar 7, 2023 20:54
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There are general patterns/rules I have seen that make interference fits for things common, like a screw thread or a print in place fit. Which helps take out any guess work around sizing If you are simply making a peg of x diameter and a hole of x + some bit larger diameter and it won't fit, when you need to measure the desired size vs actual and adjust, because I guarantee that is all over your prints. It would be anything from wrong steps to over extrusion Or it could be you have too tight a tolerance on it. 10mm peg and 10.001 mm hole might be ambitious
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Mar 7, 2023 21:31
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Ohvee posted:I was asked to help out at a trade show last week due to my experience building our 3D printer at work. The O&P industry is still in the early stages of adoption, but there are quite a few companies trying to get into it. Pretty cool to see some printers with typhoon hotends and that kind of thing. Nice, Mosaic has some really neat looking developments. I actually had no idea they had gone in some of the directions they have. Robotic build plate handling / swapping is so hot right now (been flagged as a big pain point for a while, but there's actual off-the-shelf type solutions now and I didn't realize Mosaic had an FDM one, poo poo's wild.) 3D printing in the O&P industry sounds fulfilling 
The Eyes Have It fucked around with this message at 21:49 on Mar 7, 2023 |
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Mar 7, 2023 21:47
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PBCrunch posted:I bought a used Ender 3 Pro. My first "useful" print was a bracket to hang up a Makita battery pack charger that doesn't have keyholes for wall mounting. To use the printed object, one removes the little rubber feet from four holes on the bottom of the charger and then puts these four little printed pegs into those holes. Clough42 talked about a few different things that can cause real world dimensions to differ from a digital model after it's printed. The vids are a few years old but I think the information is still valid. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0dFThbwAx2Y https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zxA3hJBpKr8
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Mar 8, 2023 00:37
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Geburan posted:I would be handling the printer. They would be on the computer making/editing models. At least until they were a bit older and has observed me a number of times. My understanding is that the prints are safe once fully cured, right? Yep, they are very safe. Resin can do very fucky things to the body. Skin exposure, getting it the eyes, lungs, throat; basically anywhere in the body. And then we are not even talking about the UV light exposure. There's a big reason why if you go to the suntan booth you are limited in time of how long you are allowed to be in there and why you have to wear small googles with very dark glass or just pitch black . Recently finished a project and it was simple but very complex in the process. My niece is very into Zelda games so I got her NFC cards that show as Amiibos to the game. What I didn't know was that the cards are super small. I took a picture of all the cards and used curve editing and then converted the image to black and white to get pure black and white versions of the image. To lithograph the pictures I found 3d Builder for Microsoft to be the best. It can take any images and render it into 4 different styles. It can also invert the image color so that black can either be the highest point or the lowest point in the outputted 3d model. I found a minimal badge holder and attached it to a bunch of boxes and then merged. I found that if I connected the side of the badge holder directly to the boxes, it would not let any cards in. I had to make the badge only be supported on the top and one point on the upper right hand side. Then after printing them, I took a gold acrylic paint pen and colored them in    
EVIL Gibson fucked around with this message at 22:02 on Mar 8, 2023 |
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Mar 8, 2023 21:56
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Ok can your printer's Z-offset just...change over time? I redid the bed leveling on my N3, and now I get a perfectly level first layer that is *way* too loving close to the bed. This is despite the Z-offset being the same its been for months Fakeedit: I just started a first layer test to calibrate it, and the nozzle was literally dragging across the bed what the gently caress Could the bed probe be broken??? BadMedic fucked around with this message at 12:53 on Mar 9, 2023 |
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Mar 9, 2023 12:47
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e: wrong tab  tl;dr: my fluiddpi install got really weird and lovely after a year, is running nominally again w/ a fresh install booting from USB instead of SD and this will hopefully not break in a few months
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Mar 9, 2023 14:45
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BadMedic posted:Ok can your printer's Z-offset just...change over time? Yes. You just changed it. You releveled the bed which changed the current relationship between the nozzle and the bed itself. Natural expansion and contraction of the printer elements also contributes as well as possible lost steps in your z axis Back to back prints are no issue, but if you make a change to anything axis or bed, you should assure your nozzle is sound. If you have some auto bed detection you should 100% use it If not, then your first test should not be printer movement, it should be setting your z height, and with a piece of paper on the bed, move the bed and head all around to assure it's not going to crash.
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Mar 9, 2023 15:04
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Had a print completely delaminate halfway through. Was a Warhammer 40k round 40mm base, so basically a very short, flat cylinder with some legs and a lower torso on top. Tilted it back at about a 45 degree angle, supports on the bottom, like I've done dozens of times before. Then halfway through one layer just randomly did not connect to the previous layer and everything else after that went totally to poo poo. There was other stuff on the plate that was still building past that height which finished perfectly fine above that height. Gonna try it again tonight at a slightly different point on the FEP with a few more supports. If it happens again I'll do some comparisons and see if there's a specific point of failure but it seems to have been completely random. Any other possibilities I should look in to?
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Mar 9, 2023 15:09
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Roundboy posted:Back to back prints are no issue, but if you make a change to anything axis or bed, you should assure your nozzle is sound. If you have some auto bed detection you should 100% use it Yeah that's my point. I updated the bed mesh cause I noticed a corner of the bed was off. The printer uses an inductive probe to zero itself before every print. For the first layer test I set the Z-offset even higher than it was before... So how did the layer test start off by grinding the nozzle across the bed? like by definition, if the printer zeros itself before every print, then applies a positive offset to that, the nozzle should never touch the bed right? Edit: like I agree, the nozzle probably isn't the problem (tho I should probably replace it anyways if it's been grinding against the PEI bed) but I don't know what the problem is BadMedic fucked around with this message at 16:01 on Mar 9, 2023 |
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Mar 9, 2023 15:52
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BadMedic posted:Ok can your printer's Z-offset just...change over time? 1) What happens when you set it to home? 2) What happens when you take the Z down as far as possible manually from the console? Does it grind into the board? 3) Did you change plates? Is it still metal? Different plates made with different alloys can give different readings. 4) Most important question: How is the inductive sensor positioned in relation to the nozzle? For Prusa, you level the sensor bottom to the exact same level as the nozzle. While going through screenshots to see what the Anet N3 looks like and the sensor in the N3 looks significantly higher than the nozzle.  I tried looking for PDF assembly instructions for the N3 but I couldn't find any place to download. Wanted to see what the assembly instructions say of how to attach and position the sensor exactly.
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Mar 9, 2023 19:23
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EVIL Gibson posted:1) What happens when you set it to home? 1) it first homes the X/Y axis. It then lowers Z until it hits the optical endstop, then slowly lowers it until the nozzle comes in contact with the bed. The nozzle is raised a small amount, then slowly brings the nozzle down to the bed a second time. 2) Yes, it still grinds into the board. The stepper will not go lower once the nozzle is in contact with the board however. It will grind if X/Y movements are given. 3) Plate has been untouched for ~2 months now, it's standard PEI coated steel 4) No idea, the entire Z/X assembly and hotend came preassembled. The printer comes with tools and parts for repairs, but no instructions for any sort of repair. I took the shroud off, I actually have no idea where the sensor would be, or even look like: 
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Mar 9, 2023 20:30
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BadMedic posted:1) it first homes the X/Y axis. It then lowers Z until it hits the optical endstop, then slowly lowers it until the nozzle comes in contact with the bed. The nozzle is raised a small amount, then slowly brings the nozzle down to the bed a second time. What printer again? It could be a strain gauge sensor if its the Neptune, looks like it may be? You should watch some youtube videos on leveling your bed and setting z-offset, maybe specifically search for your printer too.
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Mar 9, 2023 20:58
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BadMedic posted:1) it first homes the X/Y axis. It then lowers Z until it hits the optical endstop, then slowly lowers it until the nozzle comes in contact with the bed. The nozzle is raised a small amount, then slowly brings the nozzle down to the bed a second time. So if I am reading this right, after homing it will grind itself into the bed. That removes the slicer from the problem which removes a lot of things to test. Try to find a Z-offset in the menu on the printer and set it to something like -5mm or something very noticeable. Then home. If you can't find it and you have a way to access the direct console command line like through Octopi then manually increase the height to a known height , like measure a spare piece of flat print with a caliper, then enter the gcode "G92 Z##" to the height of the piece. That will tell your firmware the current nozzle position is exactly at the height of the print. BadMedic posted:
There's a way to measure without a probe and that's through the stepper motor so it knows it hit the bottom through a capacitive (I think) test.
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Mar 9, 2023 21:06
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EVIL Gibson posted:There's a way to measure without a probe and that's through the stepper motor so it knows it hit the bottom through a capacitive (I think) test. Agreed with the other advice but I don't think any printers use sensorless homing for z. It's always done by probe, strain or pressure gauge in the hotend assembly or bed, orrr limit switch. At least I never see any new printers with sensorless z homing. I'm confused did his printer work for months and now it's not? edit: Sorry I went back and read a few of Bad Medic's posts. The pei bed could have warped slightly from being pulled off and on the bed or potentially something is the slightest bit loose? Or the strain gauge is wearing out potentially. I'd also check how square your gantry is with the rest of the frame I think. Opinionated fucked around with this message at 22:55 on Mar 9, 2023 |
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Mar 9, 2023 22:47
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EVIL Gibson posted:Try to find a Z-offset in the menu on the printer and set it to something like -5mm or something very noticeable. Then home. I swear I got hit by printer gremlins I did another bed leveling to be safe, set the Z offset so a business card can fit under it (which is too high but that's the point here) Then I did a series of first layer tests where I gradually set the Z offset to... the exact same value it had before it started grinding the bed, which was still the optimum offset So IDK what happened, I'm going to chalk it up to firmware being dumb, or ghosts
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Mar 9, 2023 22:51
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I was looking at some 3d printer deals and asked my brother if his 11 year old son would be interested in a printer for his upcoming birthday, and apparently he was excited about the idea. I can’t get the Microcenter $99 Ender 3 Pro deal since they already have my info on file, but they do have the Kobra Go for $149. That looks like it might be decent as a starter printer - it needs a lot of assembly but I’m sure my brother can handle that. Is there any particular reason not to go with this one, or is there a better option at roughly the same price?
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Mar 11, 2023 05:09
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TVs Ian posted:I was looking at some 3d printer deals and asked my brother if his 11 year old son would be interested in a printer for his upcoming birthday, and apparently he was excited about the idea. if you don't mind the assembly that seems like a good deal, it's basically an e3p with $50 worth of all the first upgrades you wanna do anyway.
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Mar 11, 2023 05:31
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bird food bathtub posted:Had a print completely delaminate halfway through. Was a Warhammer 40k round 40mm base, so basically a very short, flat cylinder with some legs and a lower torso on top. Tilted it back at about a 45 degree angle, supports on the bottom, like I've done dozens of times before. Then halfway through one layer just randomly did not connect to the previous layer and everything else after that went totally to poo poo. There was other stuff on the plate that was still building past that height which finished perfectly fine above that height. Is it possible that the legs, torso, and base all aligned at the same time to form a ring shape that could cause suction?
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Mar 11, 2023 07:22
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IncredibleIgloo posted:Is it possible that the legs, torso, and base all aligned at the same time to form a ring shape that could cause suction?  I don't think there was any ring shape in it. Best I can come up with is that at the point of failure it transitioned to doing the ankle/lower leg at the same time and caused something to go all fucky wucky. I added more supports on the underside of the base, moved it around a bit on the slicer build plate, tilted it back like 5 more degrees and the second print worked fine.
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Mar 11, 2023 12:36
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I put a body kit on my Prusa. Does nothing but looks neat. Also printed a tray that bolts on under the printer, might help collect those bits of plastic that come off the bed sometimes. https://imgur.com/a/7Qak9We
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Mar 12, 2023 03:59
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I'm trying to get my Prusa mini dialed in for my son after having it sit in the garage for 2 years, and I am pulling my hair out trying to get this thing working. No matter what I try it seems like it can get random clumps or strings. I'll post our latest prusa logo, but anything more complicated does not turn out correct. I didn't use it much back in the day, so maybe I'm just complete garbage at getting the first layer right, I don't know. Things I have tried are: recalibrating resetting first layer with 100mmx100mm squares cleaning base plate with dish soap clean between prints with rubbing alcohol raising best temp to 65 slowing print speed to 75 for the first couple rows several cold pulls Removed that tube above the nozzle and checked that there was no old filament stuck in there and then did a cold pull as well.  
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Mar 12, 2023 04:13
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The Eyes Have It posted:I've found this super handy: add this to the OP please
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Mar 12, 2023 04:19
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Dial M for MURDER posted:I'm trying to get my Prusa mini dialed in for my son after having it sit in the garage for 2 years, and I am pulling my hair out trying to get this thing working. Is the filament also over two years old? From the model it just looks like it could've absorbed a lot of moisture while in storage and that's where you're getting the popping and stringing from
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Mar 12, 2023 04:23
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I finally found the clog in my ender, wiped the pi, installed mainsail and everything via kaurh and started fresh on the newest nightly of superslicer, and despite slow speeds, this is the nicest benchy out of the box I have. I'm not sure what is different, but dispute a wonky mesh (that is the point of a mesh, right?) My z adjust is spot on and I'm printing like a champ Time to play with upping speeds and start some 12 hour prints while I rewire the voron and go to town.
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Mar 12, 2023 04:30
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Dial M for MURDER posted:I'm trying to get my Prusa mini dialed in Did you reseat the PTFE tube/raise the heartbreak? Common issue with the mini even without sitting in a garage
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Mar 12, 2023 04:33
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Lower the Z offset, like, a lot
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Mar 12, 2023 04:34
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The machine has set with the prusa filament in through Seattle summers and winters. God could it be as easy as that? Also I went back and did another live Z adjustment and dropped it again. I'll try one of the sample packs that are still sealed and see where that leaves me. Also not sure if it matters but the printer is inside now, so temperature is pretty steady now.
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Mar 12, 2023 04:56
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Filament can absorb moisture through the vacuum bags. Just dry it yourself.
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Mar 12, 2023 14:51
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Like open it up and blow dry into the bag for a bit? Edit: I just read that I can pop the spool in the oven at 108f for 4 hours. I'll give that a go Dial M for MURDER fucked around with this message at 18:12 on Mar 12, 2023 |
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Mar 12, 2023 17:34
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Use a food dehydrator or (if you have one with precise enough control) your oven. Google for temps/times.
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Mar 12, 2023 18:14
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