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Dial M for MURDER posted:It seems like a lot of times, and I'm not sure how to describe this, on the first couple passes it has trouble moving back and to the left. Like when printing the brim it's ok, but when it's doing the model itself the is too high up, or just doesn't want to stick. If the supplied pre-sliced models print fine but the ones you slice yourself don’t, then it points to something about your slicer settings - possibly a layer height or z offset issue, or maybe temps.. IIRC you said you’re on a Prusa with a bed probe and no way to tram the bed, so there shouldn’t be any bed adjustment to do.. Also with those pics if you meant you’re downloading pre-sliced Gcode off the internet and printing that, I’m pretty sure the best practice is to never run Gcode on your machine that you downloaded from the internet, because it can damage your printer if it’s not appropriately sliced for your machine. But as the others have said that stringing is something that can be tuned out, or removed with a heat gun or quick pass with a lighter or something like that.
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Mar 15, 2023 21:44
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Finally the filament we've all been waiting for: radiation shielding tungsten PETG. https://blog.prusa3d.com/were-launching-a-brand-new-prusament-petg-tungsten-75-for-radiation-shielding-use_75919/
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Mar 16, 2023 02:38
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Just what I wanted, a filament capable of eroding even a hardened steel nozzle
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Mar 16, 2023 02:55
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Joke's on all the haters who said a tungsten carbide nozzle was overkill.
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Mar 16, 2023 04:57
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When your filament measures more easily in kg/cm³ than g/cm³
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Mar 16, 2023 13:21
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I almost mocked the price and density, but given the applications it's for, I'm sure that + shredding a nozzle a day are still a compelling cheaper alternative.
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Mar 16, 2023 13:27
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quote:The Prusament PETG Tungsten 75% is filled with tungsten powder (75 % in mass) Cause tungsten is way more dense than PETG, so if it's 75% by mass, it would be a much smaller amount by volume right? If I'm doing my math right (W:19.3, PETG:1.25 g/cm^3) Tungsten is ~15 times more dense, and should only be ~16% of the filament by volume. Edit: ...and hey that pretty much lines up with their table, where this filament's properties are about ~20% of tungsten's values.
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Mar 16, 2023 13:45
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BadMedic posted:Am I misreading this, or are they being a bit tricky with this number?
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Mar 16, 2023 14:26
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I'm not a radiologist but I'm guessing mass is the more relevant measurement for shielding applications.
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Mar 16, 2023 15:53
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TerminalSaint posted:I'm not a radiologist but I'm guessing mass is the more relevant measurement for shielding applications. I used to work in radiological controls and mass is the relevant measurement for shielding, as you vary the size and shape of the shielding based on the attenuation of the material, which is dictated in part by mass.
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Mar 16, 2023 17:45
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I got a little bit of copper fill PLA in one of those once a month sample boxes a few years ago and it was impressive how heavy it was compared with normal filament. I have never tried to print it (yet) but it's just a small amount.
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Mar 16, 2023 18:13
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Prank your doctor by hiding a tiny tungsten benchy on your person during an x-ray. Then lose said benchy by accident and spend the next several hours insisting that you don't have pica. Effective-Disorder fucked around with this message at 21:43 on Mar 16, 2023 |
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Mar 16, 2023 21:39
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Rexxed posted:I got a little bit of copper fill PLA in one of those once a month sample boxes a few years ago and it was impressive how heavy it was compared with normal filament. I have never tried to print it (yet) but it's just a small amount. You could probably use up all your sample just tuning to print it well. The copper really changes the nozzle heat and printing temps. I have a benchy somewhere that i did in the copper fill and it came out -okay- but tuning is needed. Its impressively heavy though
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Mar 16, 2023 22:55
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Rexxed posted:I got a little bit of copper fill PLA in one of those once a month sample boxes a few years ago and it was impressive how heavy it was compared with normal filament. I have never tried to print it (yet) but it's just a small amount. I have a roll of it and agree it's pretty impressive how heavy it is compared to every other filament I've got. I've tried weathering some prints but didn't know what I was doing and over-weathered... I want to print out some statues to weather but can never decide on one. Need to try some other weathering methods or just leave it outside.  On the right was done with bleach spray left to soak, not the best decision. I was looking to get the green patina which I only got a tiny bit of on the left, need to use some stronger vinegar or something.
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Mar 17, 2023 00:28
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I believe you want Brasso, which is mostly ammonia, it gave a reasonably nice patina to my copperfill prints (well the one the succeeded anyways, that poo poo is a nightmare to print)
Talorat fucked around with this message at 01:55 on Mar 19, 2023 |
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Mar 17, 2023 05:28
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Anyone have experience with the Creality Halot Lite? Looking for a mono printer with a 8.9” screen and it’s considerably cheaper than competitors like the Saturn & Mono X. Is it that bad?
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Mar 17, 2023 16:11
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Bless Slice Engineering for your tiny bottles of, what must be holy water,which they somehow sell as Plastic Repellant Paint. https://www.sliceengineering.com/products/plastic-repellent-paint?currency=USD The nozzles comes out super smooth after every print super clean and the application is dumb easy. I could never do smoothing because it would build the massive snots to end all snots but it just came out of one with nothing . It has brought up another problem. A personal one. Now I just can't absently minded associate anything going wrong with a PETG print to "  Thaaaaaats how PETG works ". This paint has me 
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Mar 17, 2023 21:23
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Neato. I'll have to give it a shot, thanks for the tip -- never heard of the stuff! I really hate plastic sticking to nozzles, it's ugly at the very least 
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Mar 17, 2023 22:16
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How much can I drink to prevent the microplastics menace the internet warned me about?!!?
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Mar 17, 2023 23:46
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I've been messing with carbon fiber filaments and doing some tests. This photo doesn't really do justice to how the eye sees things in person, but it is kind of interesting how much difference there is in the look of these three test pieces: Top: Bambu PETG-CF, 0.6mm (printed on Bambu X1C) Middle: Bambu PLA-CF, 0.6mm (printed on Bambu X1C) Bottom: Prusament PC-CF, 0.4mm (printed on Prusa MK3)  Again, the photo doesn't do it justice because the bottom (PC-CF) is just miles ahead of the other two in appearance. I feel like I could tell them apart even if I were wearing a welding hood and oven mitts while drowning in the dark. As far as feel goes, they're all sturdy as hell with the PETG-CF having a bit more flex than the other two. But the end product's appearance is just light years apart.
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Mar 17, 2023 23:51
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Just had a very strange problem, and I'm not sure why. I was having a lot of trouble printing for the last day or so, I'd either get nothing coming out of the nozzle or a very small amount that got very stuck to the PEI plate. Watching it closely when it started, the extruder started clicking like it was trying to extrude but stuck, and when I looked close I saw the nozzle was right up against the bed. I releveled, reset the z offset multiple times, moved the actual probe up and down, but it kept happening. Finally, I went into Klipperscreen to move Z up before it started printing - and it was already set to -1. Even weirder, I could reset it, but then if I hit the .05 up or down, it was acting like it was still at -1 because it would go to -1.05 or -.95. After it showed 0 and I stopped the print, I tried again, it stayed at 0, and the print worked normally. But I have no idea how the default fine tuning somehow got changed to -1, and why it persisted between multiple reboots & shutdowns. So I really hope it doesn't happen again.
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Mar 18, 2023 01:01
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Talorat posted:I believe you want Brasspo, which is mostly ammonia, it gave a reasonably nice patina to my copperfill prints (well the one the succeeded anyways, that poo poo is a nightmare to print) Ah nice I'll have to try that. Agreed too that it's a pain to print!
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Mar 18, 2023 22:02
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oDKtKg4UfsU yay, look what happens when you build a rook, and do it with thought... (Its not a rook) The 100, seems like a good printer. And it's a complete thought.
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Mar 18, 2023 23:12
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EVIL Gibson posted:Bless Slice Engineering for your tiny bottles of, what must be holy water,which they somehow sell as Plastic Repellant Paint. Their magic paint is ptfe-based, so might wanna keep the nozzle <= 260C
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Mar 18, 2023 23:44
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Nerobro posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oDKtKg4UfsU yay, look what happens when you build a rook, and do it with thought...
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Mar 18, 2023 23:47
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I did the tuning , have my extruder distance and pressure advance set up and everything is printing the best it ever has. On some prints the retractions / pushes are insane so it causes my extruder to click like never before. I have lowered my retractions down to something more sane with a high PA (2mm / 40mm/sec) but I occasionally still get the clicking, notably on lots of small features. Am I insane to lower it across the board for everything or tune it just for this STL ? 1mm seems too small for a bowden tube, but is speed worth it to go lower? Are these values hand in had or is one the better adjustment overall? Stock Ender3 extuder (upgraded to metal) via bowden tube on the stock hotend. I'll buy a whole new printer before i redo this whole thing with new parts, and it prints just fine despite the wonky plate. Roundboy fucked around with this message at 04:01 on Mar 19, 2023 |
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Mar 19, 2023 03:08
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insta posted:Their magic paint is ptfe-based, so might wanna keep the nozzle <= 260C not being interested in either abs or asa, pretty safe in that regard
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Mar 19, 2023 03:45
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Roundboy posted:I did the tuning , have my extruder distance and pressure advance set up and everything is printing the best it ever has. On some prints the retractions / pushes are insane so it causes my extruder to click like never before. I have lowered my retractions down to something more sane with a high PA (2mm / 40mm/sec) but I occasionally still get the clicking, notably on lots of small features. Probably something fucky in the hotend. Is this PLA? Running at .45 PA, .08 smoothing time, 2mm Retraction, and 40-80mm/s should be fine. What are your accelerations? Here has been some of the fun poo poo I've ran into in the last year or two:
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Mar 19, 2023 04:02
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TVs Ian posted:Huh, I like this one, but I think my printer is a bit small to make the parts. I’ll keep an eye on it, maybe the requirement will change or I’ll be able to squeeze a 230x230 print onto the Ender 3 S1’s bed. well, this one is printed in quarters, so it can be printed on a much smaller bed. And it's modular, so it can be stretched, and reconfigured. ... It addresses absoultely everything about the Rook. And does it without asking you to pay for the patreon.
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Mar 19, 2023 04:36
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Bondematt posted:Probably something fucky in the hotend. Is this PLA? Running at .45 PA, .08 smoothing time, 2mm Retraction, and 40-80mm/s should be fine. What are your accelerations? ...and yep, this time it bound up and broke in the bowden tube. Wood PLA this time, other normal PLA were fine with the poor retractions. PA of .9. And i only ever started to get the retraction 'click' when i upped the value (from 0) so it makes sense that i need to adjust retractions. But 1/2 way through my print the fillament snaped and looks like its just a partial clog in the nozzle. First time using the amolen wood pla so i will need to make a lot more adjustments before i can use it again. Switching back to my normal stuff to print other things and clean out my nozzle
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Mar 19, 2023 15:25
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New to the thread, so apologies if this was addressed after the first couple pages or before the last couple pages. My expectations for 3D printing are very low. For something that doesn't need to be precise, I'm happy with the print as long as it's generally the right size and shape and doesn't look too unslightly. I don't obsess over making them perfect. I haven't done a calibration print and I never level the bed with the springs (I just probe the bed with CR Touch prior to each print and call it a day). I'm also well aware that my printer is very much on the low-end and, at this point, very outdated. This is just an original Creality Ender 3 that has received some upgrades in the five years I've had it (metal extruder, better springs, Creality's CR Touch auto-leveler, glass bed, octoprint). I started a print last night using Cura's "standard quality - 0.2mm" preset. However, I forgot to generate supports, and the print has a 90-degree 31.4mm bridge. To my surprise, the print was fine, even without the supports. Here's a picture of the print:  Again... not calibrated, not fussed-over. I know there are some issues with it, but I'm not unsatisfied with the result, as this opening is just to slot in a little battery indicator circuit. I was just expecting a total poo poo-show when I went to retrieve the print. What's the deal with supports? When are they actually needed? I thought that, generally, supports are needed when the angle is greater than 45 degrees or so, but bridges less than 10mm might be possible without support, but this thing is well over the 45 degree / 10mm rule-of-thumb. Do I have it all wrong? Did I just get lucky? Did 3D printers improve significantly in this regard? I installed Creality's newest PCB so I could use the CR Touch, but it introduced a number of other improvements, including a massive reduction in noise and more precise movement (based on my perception).
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Mar 19, 2023 15:44
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Nerobro posted:well, this one is printed in quarters, so it can be printed on a much smaller bed. And it's modular, so it can be stretched, and reconfigured. It says it needs a 230x230 bed. Technically mine is 235x235, but officially it's 220x220 printable. I haven't tried going that close to the edge of the bed, but I may give it a shot. Maybe a version with a slightly bigger bed would print with 3 chunks per side instead of 2 and fit on my current printer.
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Mar 19, 2023 15:55
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TVs Ian posted:It says it needs a 230x230 bed. Technically mine is 235x235, but officially it's 220x220 printable. I haven't tried going that close to the edge of the bed, but I may give it a shot. I've never used an S1, so I can't say that yours would do it with 100% certainty, but all of the other Ender 3 models are fully capable of printing right out to the edges. It's just a matter of defining the bed size in the slicer. I'd give it a shot!
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Mar 19, 2023 16:14
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despite the demise of his lab and living space the madman has done it again https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uVECS4rBAZc
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Mar 19, 2023 17:36
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Ender defaults to 220*220 because if you use a glass top held on with clips that is your new printable area Also the beds tends to warp bad at the edges, so you really aren't always going to use the extreme edje over time anyway
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Mar 19, 2023 18:16
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Macintosh HD posted:What's the deal with supports? When are they actually needed? I thought that, generally, supports are needed when the angle is greater than 45 degrees or so, but bridges less than 10mm might be possible without support, but this thing is well over the 45 degree / 10mm rule-of-thumb. Slicers' algorithms for generating the G-code for bridges have improved over the past couple years, both the geometry of the bridges and the toolhead commands, so you can get some decently lengthy bridges without any additional effort, especially if you're OK with a little bit of aesthetic sagging
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Mar 19, 2023 18:47
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Dr. Fishopolis posted:despite the demise of his lab and living space the madman has done it again GLASS Filled Filament? Oh gently caress, it's reminding me of the times people were using glass particles to make snow in miniature painting. ...and they still do.
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Mar 19, 2023 18:49
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It's fine. You probably have dozens of glass-filled plastic objects in your house already. Most plastic spatulas, for instance. As long as you aren't grinding or sanding the material and snorting the dust, there's no danger. Printing GF filament is harmless.
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Mar 19, 2023 18:52
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What does the glass add? Tensile strength?
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Mar 19, 2023 20:37
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Talorat posted:What does the glass add? Tensile strength? yeah, impact resistance too
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Mar 19, 2023 20:41
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