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Johnny Truant posted:I've had my Bosch 500 for a few weeks now and goddamn this thing is still fuckin sweet. Like, it'll auto pop open to air fry when it's done?? Don't your chicken nuggies get soggy before then?
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Mar 19, 2023 14:49
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Mustache Ride posted:You cover the edges with baseboard, and between rooms with thresholds: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lifeproof-Hickory-Natural-1-4-in-Thick-x-1-3-8-in-Wide-x-94-1-2-in-Length-Vinyl-T-Molding-HLVT3026TM/206400133 The rooms already had baseboards and I wasn't hardcore enough to tear them off in order to install the LVP  But thank you for the threshold piece, I'll get some of those on my next materials pickup.
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Mar 19, 2023 15:09
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Yeah you're going to run into problems if you want to change baseboards out in the future because now they'll be hard to remove. I did a 1x4 removing the crappy thin baseboard and it more than covered any lovely gaps, and after paint and caulking up the nail holes it looks pretty good. Please excuse my dirty rear end floor.
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Mar 19, 2023 15:29
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This weekend was a gently caress. Finally getting some thaw but of course the warming temps results in snow sliding off the roof and it manages to crush part of the kids trampoline.... Then the freezer gives up. Just 9.5 years old to boot. So I look at my local facebook groups and 2nd hand sites and drag home this 1990 (possibly 1980s) chest freezer. It will probably last just as long yet. Now we can look at a replacement freezer and take out time about it. This one will still seee service later, will go into the shed. These old things can be put outdoors and don't mind winter temps. I am curious to see how much power it will use next winter so I will put a power logger on it. Uses 180W currently when active.  
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Mar 19, 2023 15:36
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Is Toto still the gold standard for bidet toilet seats? I've had a K300 for a few years now but I'm going to outfit another bathroom now and wondered if any of the other brands (BioBidet, Brondell, whatever) are worth looking at or if I should just get another Toto.
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Mar 19, 2023 15:46
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His Divine Shadow posted:This weekend was a gently caress. Finally getting some thaw but of course the warming temps results in snow sliding off the roof and it manages to crush part of the kids trampoline.... Johnny Truant posted:I've had my Bosch 500 for a few weeks now and goddamn this thing is still fuckin sweet. Like, it'll auto pop open to air fry when it's done?? Just remember to clean the strainer periodically. I do ours whenever I remember... probably about 1 per month and it's fine.
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Mar 19, 2023 15:48
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Kylaer posted:Is Toto still the gold standard for bidet toilet seats? I've had a K300 for a few years now but I'm going to outfit another bathroom now and wondered if any of the other brands (BioBidet, Brondell, whatever) are worth looking at or if I should just get another Toto. According to a possibly biased Japan-based news program, everyone at a recent bed and bath expo in Europe all agreed that Toto is still the best ever. In Japan, Lixil is second in the market but idk if they export.
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Mar 19, 2023 15:55
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PainterofCrap posted:Yeah, dark green Here's a mockup with a forest green. Not sure how it goes with the black  and here's all black 
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Mar 19, 2023 15:59
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Hashtag Banterzone posted:Here's a mockup with a forest green Emerald green, imho. Also I will once again recommend Sherwin Williams' free color consultation service. I used it when picking colors for my exterior trim and found it extremely helpful. It's a free 30min video chat: https://www.sherwin-williams.com/en-us/virtual-color-consultation
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Mar 19, 2023 16:02
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I have some stairs that back onto a half-height cold cellar type space in my house. I’m worried about where this is heading if I start my insulating under my stairs though 
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Mar 19, 2023 16:17
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Anyone have general advice on selecting solid hardwood floors and having them installed? We're looking at white or red oak for about 1000 sqft of kitchen, living room, and bedrooms plus a staircase. Budget is about $15k. Is oak the right species for these spaces and if we want to stay as classic as possible? What plank size? Litmus tests for flooring guys? We also may want to knock out a few walls and remove some kitchen cabinets, but not for a few years., We really need new floors now though. Is it even possible to remove some walls without redoing the whole floor again? Could we just buy a few extra boxes of flooring and have them installed in any bare spots down the line?
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Mar 19, 2023 17:05
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Oak, Cherry and Maple are the three big wood species, really just need to get what looks the best to you. White oak is my usual suggestion. It's cheap, it's the most commonly found so all the installers know it and I think the grain looks the prettiest. Hardest part of hardwood floor installation is picking the stain. Problem with removing walls is it's really hard to patch floors that have half a cut piece because they were right up next to a wall. Honestly I wouldn't even bother, do the walls first. You'll have to resand and stain everything after a patch too. Mustache Ride fucked around with this message at 17:30 on Mar 19, 2023 |
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Mar 19, 2023 17:27
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Agreed re: do the walls first. Otherwise you'll have obvious lines in the floor where the walls used to be. Floorboards tend to change over time in terms of what stores stock, so buy all you need (including extras for repairs or unforeseen extra needs) in one purchase. If you need more later, you may not be able to get a good match.
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Mar 19, 2023 17:46
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kreeningsons posted:Anyone have general advice on selecting solid hardwood floors and having them installed? We're looking at white or red oak for about 1000 sqft of kitchen, living room, and bedrooms plus a staircase. Budget is about $15k. Is oak the right species for these spaces and if we want to stay as classic as possible? What plank size?
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Mar 19, 2023 17:52
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"Classic" to me means narrow width strips, 2-3".
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Mar 19, 2023 18:03
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Pine is what was used here, usually wide boards with tongue and groove joinery.
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Mar 19, 2023 18:18
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Slugworth posted:Define classic - time period, region, etc. Classic could be unbelievably wide planks or inch wide planks. Similar answer regarding species, although oak is generally gonna be a safe bet on that front. In some areas/periods, maple would have been used in the kitchen because it held up better to heavy pots and pans being dropped on it. That's true...I knew I was probably missing some crucial information. House is a late 1980's constructed cape cod located in Northeastern USA. For our house, I am leaning toward something like this, which we recently saw in essentially the same model house as ours. I thought it looked nice, but I need a sanity check that these aren't trash floors (as close as anyone can tell over the internet, at least).    Classic to me will always be the hardwood floors that were in my late 1800s/early 1900s city apartments. Here's the best picture I have of some of them. Not sure what species/type of stain this is.   Another general question: what about the banister/railing? We want to replace that too, but ideally it will be with a metal railing with a smaller footprint than the current wooden one. Is that something we'd have to do before the flooring, or we can do after?  Ty for the advice so far, all. kreeningsons fucked around with this message at 18:47 on Mar 19, 2023 |
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Mar 19, 2023 18:38
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kreeningsons posted:Classic to me will always be the hardwood floors that were in my early 1900s city apartments. Here's the best picture I have of some of them. This should give you some idea how material prices on different widths/cuts/species might compare. https://www.hursthardwoods.com/store/unfinished-hardwood-1/Domestic-Solid/red-oak-rift-and-quartered/2-14-Red-Oak-Rift-Quartered/
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Mar 19, 2023 18:52
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kreeningsons posted:That's true...I knew I was probably missing some crucial information. House is a late 1980's constructed cape cod located in Northeastern USA. I don't know anything about flooring but that sweater is awesome. Still have it?
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Mar 20, 2023 00:48
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Genderfluent posted:I don't know anything about flooring but that sweater is awesome. Still have it? i sold it back in 2019 to someone for an 80s party 💔 but i'm feeling generous, so here's a secret: you can probably source one online by using a combination of google reverse image search and ebay alerts for "IB Diffusion 1992".
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Mar 20, 2023 02:16
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Hey, I just posted this in the wood working thread but I need advice and thought yall house people might have an idea: some rear end in a top hat posted:I am looking for advice on how best to take down a valuable tree and come out ahead. I have a pretty old American elm in my backyard that needs to come down due to where it's located, but it is healthy. Back of the napkin math tells me there's at least $50k worth of lumber in there, probably more to a furniture maker. I would likely mill it to live edge rounds and live edge slabs. ~150 ea 3-4' rounds and ~150ft of 1-2ft wide slabs. I can store it and air dry it. I know I could make much more by finishing and selling the pieces per order or even just raw to individual buyers. To be honest, I don't want to deal with that trouble. I would love to sell it as a lot to a furniture maker or lumber yard after milling and 1-2 years of storing and drying on my property. Am I way off on the potential value of the wood in the tree? What is a fair price to sell the lot for? Would it be weird to ask for a down payment on the lot that would end up covering the cost of taking down the tree and getting it milled? I don't have a ton of money sitting around, but I could eat the cost for as long as need be.
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Mar 20, 2023 03:24
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slidebite posted:Good score. When I started reading your post about a 40 year old chest freezer I went "gah" because of power, but 180W is better than I expected. drat this thing gets cold too, -26.5C this morning. I wonder if the thermostat is out of order or if old freezers are simply set colder. Some preliminary googling indicates people with old chest freezers they don't like to let go because they keep it so cold. I'm gonna see if I can adjust this termostat up a little, -18-20 would be just fine. Or I fit a sonoff wifi thermostat to it.
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Mar 20, 2023 05:22
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Those are some beautiful hardwood floors! We recently replaced our old floors with LVP (no hardwood  but we have kids and dogs), specifically Provenza MaxCore LVP, and so far it's been doing well. I was thinking about buying a robot vacuum to clean, and was wondering if anybody had experience w/ water safety for the flooring? I've been mopping but life has been getting in the way and a Braava robot vacuum seems pretty neat, but just wanted to check w/r/t vinyl floor water safety. Thanks!
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Mar 20, 2023 05:37
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Any advice for fixing the landlord special lovely paint job? I’m pretty sure this place has lead paint (built in 1902), so scraping and repainting feels a bit risky but I have no idea. Nothing is peeling or flaking, it’s just very thick. The paint is mostly fine except in corners and windowsills, but white paint everywhere sucks. If this is a “don’t do this yourself idiot” type of job please let me know I’m new at this. Side note: this place is full of “negligent massachusetts landlord” fixes its incredible. Backwards insulation, painting over unused phone wire, and wallpaper on shelves which are also painted over. My favorite has got to be the sideways, crooked and also painted over outlet.
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Mar 20, 2023 14:10
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Related to paint, once things warm up in going to be doing some trim changes on wood and brick on my house. Any recs on brands to avoid or get? I know that paying for the best/premium paint is the best, but what about store? I can save a bit more with Lowe's best paint vs. Sherwin Williams, but I know not to cheap out on budget paint. Also, I've only ever painted wood. Anything special that you do differently with brick?
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Mar 20, 2023 14:19
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As long as you're careful and toss 4 delicious lead paint chips in the trash for each 1 you eat, you'll be fine.
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Mar 20, 2023 14:21
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Bread Set Jettison posted:Any advice for fixing the landlord special lovely paint job? I’m pretty sure this place has lead paint (built in 1902), so scraping and repainting feels a bit risky but I have no idea. Nothing is peeling or flaking, it’s just very thick. The paint is mostly fine except in corners and windowsills, but white paint everywhere sucks. If this is a “don’t do this yourself idiot” type of job please let me know I’m new at this. The lead test kits are cheap. Buy one and test your walls in a few places you want to paint. Definitively knowing you do or do not have lead paint is going to inform the steps you'll have to take.
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Mar 20, 2023 14:35
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Bread Set Jettison posted:Any advice for fixing the landlord special lovely paint job? I’m pretty sure this place has lead paint (built in 1902), so scraping and repainting feels a bit risky but I have no idea. Nothing is peeling or flaking, it’s just very thick. The paint is mostly fine except in corners and windowsills, but white paint everywhere sucks. If this is a “don’t do this yourself idiot” type of job please let me know I’m new at this. I once did a reversal and did a lovely tenant paint job to cover a colour they wanted me to white wash. Grabbed a cheap electric sprayer, a gallon of Tremclad, and thinned it with mineral spirits. Threw the gun and everything in the trash bin and tossed the key under the super’s door. Probably smelled for two loving weeks in that hallway but I was gone. 
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Mar 20, 2023 15:02
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Story time: my EV charger burned out last week and I bought a new one to replace it. When I went to submit the paperwork to PSEG to get refunded for the charger and installation costs, I realized that I did not get a permit for the installation, and that I was supposed to have one ahead of time based on the irritated response of the person at the building department when I called. I'm getting that sorted out now, but I am belatedly realizing that there are other various things around the house that I've had done where a permit was probably never obtained. At the time it was because I either didn't think about it or assumed that the contractor would handle it. I am older and wiser now. That being said, I don't actually know for sure what around here never got a permit. There are things where I know it got a permit and I have the paperwork, things where I'm not sure, and things where I'm certain no permit was ever obtained. My understanding of the real-world ramifications of not having permits are:
So, what should I do? Go to the borough with hat in hand and ask for retroactive permits and to not bust my balls too hard because I'm trying to make things right? Let sleeping dogs lie? I'm leaning towards "let sleeping dogs lie" because the last thing I need right now is having to spend thousands of dollars digging up my front yard or basement french drains because I made the mistake of telling the government about something. chutwig fucked around with this message at 15:40 on Mar 20, 2023 |
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Mar 20, 2023 15:38
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Justa Dandelion posted:Hey, I just posted this in the wood working thread but I need advice and thought yall house people might have an idea: I didn't look in that thread so sorry if I'm just saying something you already heard - if you don't already do a lot of this stuff I wouldn't start with Elm. If the goal is to end up with useful material of max value you probably need to quarter-saw it, and again if this is your first time quarter-sawing don't try Elm first. If you don't have open air roofed storage and a bunch of heavy stuff to put on top of your stacks I wouldn't bother (sawmills put entire pallets of other wood on top of drying Elm to keep it flat). Elm's interlocking grain causes a lot of stress to build up in drying, meaning that if you dry and then resaw a thick slab it'll move A LOT in some way. So you need to cut and dry it close to desired finish thickness. Even without drying issues I don't really know how many thick live edge slabs you can sell in an area before you saturate the market, probably not many. Once you have properly dried elm in hand it's not hard to work with - I've made a fair amount of stuff with red elm and it's very pretty. If you can find woodturners to sell some to that's probably best case, they don't give a poo poo about cup and twist and Elm bowls are lovely.
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Mar 20, 2023 15:40
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chutwig posted:So, what should I do? Nothing. And say "it was like this when I bought the place" if anyone asks about any of it.
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Mar 20, 2023 15:45
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Motronic posted:Nothing. Yes. This is what everyone does.
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Mar 20, 2023 15:46
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Motronic posted:Nothing. Except for the pesky date codes that are on most products now. I bet someone that bought and stored Romex in the '90s and early '00s right now could make a killing on it.
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Mar 20, 2023 15:56
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EVERYWHERE 
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meatpimp posted:Except for the pesky date codes that are on most products now. Freak manufacturing error. Happens all the time, which is why all of the other parts also have similar date codes.
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Mar 20, 2023 16:01
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chutwig posted:So, what should I do? Motronic posted:Nothing.  gently caress permits in general. I only get one when I have a dumpster sit in the driveway for weeks and the city permit office is nosy.
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Mar 20, 2023 22:33
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Mustache Ride posted:
I wouldn't go that far. As may of you know I'm former code enforcement. There are times it matters and times it doesn't. It matters the most for your average homeowner who is basically in a position of hiring people they aren't qualified to evaluate to work on the most expensive thing they've ever bought or owned and wouldn't have any idea if the work they are paying for is reasonable or safe. Many people posting here don't need those kinds of bumpers and know that code is a bare minimum and generally do everything to a much higher standard anyway. But in this conversation all of these thing were done well in the past, there's not a lot of good that can be done here. I'm not saying you can't do things in a way where it causes problems 10, 20 years later, especially in electrical (I can think of a half dozen off the top of my head right now) but there's little chance of any good outcome in trying to go back through any of this now. It's a "do better in the future" situation.
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Mar 20, 2023 22:49
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That's fair, I just think it's unreasonable to need a permit to remove a wall or reroute a plug or put in can lights. All of which I can do myself and know that what I'm doing is structurally sound and more than up to any master electricians standards, but because I don't have a license I have to hire someone with one to get it inspected? Also doesn't help that the City of Austin is trying to make me go balls deep with permits for kitchen remodel, gently caress that.
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Mar 20, 2023 23:18
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Mustache Ride posted:That's fair, I just think it's unreasonable to need a permit to remove a wall or reroute a plug or put in can lights. All of which I can do myself and know that what I'm doing is structurally sound and more than up to any master electricians standards, but because I don't have a license I have to hire someone with one to get it inspected? Maybe you can, but I've seen a lot of people who think they can and absolutely can not do so safely. Including people getting paid to do that kind of work. So I get it can be annoying but I assure you code is written in blood.
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Mar 20, 2023 23:21
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The guidance you'll get on what electrical work "requires" a permit is usually functionally useless. At least in my state, it says everything requires a permit. But in practice, even a licensed electrician isn't going to pull a permit and schedule an inspection for something like just swapping a receptacle or switch. But there is work where you really do want a permit and an inspection, like a panel replacement or service upgrade. In my area again, the electric company won't even reconnect a new meter without the inspection sticker on it (that can be a fun dance to schedule to get everything done in a day...).
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Mar 20, 2023 23:30
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Mustache Ride posted:
My example from today -- I'm planning a deck with a 12'x24' covered section and a 18'x18' uncovered section. I checked with my county's Code Compliance department last year about using Pylex helical piers instead of concrete footers, since I'm going over a section of a 14x20' concrete patio, so I'd be able to just cut an 8x8" hole in the concrete in several places instead of a 16x16" hole in the concrete for traditional footers (with the soil load bearing spec that the county uses). Last year, they said "yeah, sure, the code says 'concrete footer or equivalent." And the helical piers are equivalent. But when I emailed them today, they said "yeah, you can use those, but your plans need an engineer or architect stamp."  (traditional concrete footers would need no stamp, which is a non-incidental expense.)So I called an engineer I know, and in talking to him, it's going to be easier to just to more concrete tear out than go through the added expense of the helical piers plus engineer's fees. So, I'm going to end up with standard concrete footers, but I am going to have the engineer stamp it just to try to get everything passed the county with as little drama as possible. gently caress permits, in general, because I'm going to overbuild the gently caress out of this deck, with tributary loads well under and joist/beam spans well under spec. And it's not enough that I have to pay for the bullshit blessing from the county, I also have to get a bullshit blessing from the township, and the HOA... because  and everyone wants money.
meatpimp fucked around with this message at 23:52 on Mar 20, 2023 |
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Mar 20, 2023 23:44
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