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Talorat posted:What does the glass add? Tensile strength? In the industrial and combat robotics scenes, glass filled, carbon filled, and Kevlar filled materials (usually nylon) are super common. Stiffness, rigidity, impact resistance are all very common improvements over the original polymer. In fact a lot of power tool casings among other things are made from injection molded glass filled nylon.
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Mar 19, 2023 20:44
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EVIL Gibson posted:GLASS Filled Filament? i will bet you any amount of money that whoever you are, wherever you are, something in the room you're in is made of glass fill nylon.
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Mar 19, 2023 20:45
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Dr. Fishopolis posted:i will bet you any amount of money that whoever you are, wherever you are, something in the room you're in is made of glass fill nylon. Don't care. Don't care for something that (hopefully) has an official production plan and health and safety control before sold*. Have kids lick 'em all day. For filament which they are going through the most uncontrollable and varied printers, an incomplete glass temperature could make the glass powder not be fully included into the print and just flake off. Then kids get a lil' lung ache because they just breathed in a lil' sharpened grit. It might be a wild take, but that filament can gently caress right off. Seen enough people that used glass snow with permanent gum damage because it's hard to break that brush point sharpening via mouth habit . *not counting import items which has the quality control of "at least it's not exploding" during shipping. EVIL Gibson fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Mar 19, 2023 |
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Mar 19, 2023 21:06
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Yeah, some filaments have different safety precautions. This is not new. Not every filament is suitable for every household environment, especially those containing children or people who eat paint.
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Mar 19, 2023 21:29
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Macintosh HD posted:What's the deal with supports? When are they actually needed? I thought that, generally, supports are needed when the angle is greater than 45 degrees or so, but bridges less than 10mm might be possible without support, but this thing is well over the 45 degree / 10mm rule-of-thumb. There's a video on youtube of a guy tuning his printer just right to get 10 centimeter bridges, so you can go pretty crazy with the distance as long as the geometry is suitable.
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Mar 19, 2023 21:36
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EVIL Gibson posted:It might be a wild take, but that filament can gently caress right off. Seen enough people that used glass snow with permanent gum damage because it's hard to break that brush point sharpening via mouth habit You do you, but it's pretty ridiculous to compare the "danger" of the fully encapsulated glass fibers in an inert plastic composite to people you know who got gum damage from licking paint brushes dipped in powdered glass. Inhalation is a risk for the workers in the factory dumping bags of glass fibers into vats of nylon pellets. Once the two are bound up together they can't be separated again, and the composite product is harmless. Again, a majority of plastic kitchen utensils are made of glass filled nylon. You're heating and scraping that material in a pan full of food that you are going to eat. Harmless.
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Mar 19, 2023 22:28
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Macintosh HD posted:What's the deal with supports? When are they actually needed? I thought that, generally, supports are needed when the angle is greater than 45 degrees or so, but bridges less than 10mm might be possible without support, but this thing is well over the 45 degree / 10mm rule-of-thumb. Please be enjoy this photo  You can see I did a perfect bridge of PLA the width of both an AAA and AA battery width with no issues. This is using ancient 2021 slicer tech. Note that the bridge is straight with no bends   Also printed this with organic supports. Previously according to this thread, this model was "laughably unprintable" but latest versions of prusaslicer have some very important new features. Go look though my recent posts I talk a lot about this The slicer will know when supports are needed. I strongly recommend switching to 100% organic supports
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Mar 20, 2023 03:57
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EVIL Gibson posted:For filament which they are going through the most uncontrollable and varied printers, an incomplete glass temperature could make the glass powder not be fully included into the print and just flake off. i don't understand how this could be possible, can you explain the mechanics behind what you're talking about? like, it makes as much sense as being worried that if you cook pancake batter wrong it'll turn back into flour Dr. Fishopolis fucked around with this message at 06:56 on Mar 20, 2023 |
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Mar 20, 2023 06:48
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It's weird how quickly PEI degrades sometimes. I cleaned it Sun at like 10am for a print, which was about 15 hours, then today I needed to scrub it to get a good first layer again.
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Mar 21, 2023 01:06
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That's never happened to me. What filament are you printing on it?
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Mar 21, 2023 03:47
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Sagebrush posted:That's never happened to me. What filament are you printing on it? Overture black PETG on textured PEI
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Mar 21, 2023 06:31
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Are you using something for a release agent? PETG bonds like crazy to PEI and glass.
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Mar 21, 2023 11:51
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PSA to check your extruder gears. Had everything apart to clean, recheck square, etc and I noticed the 'free spinning gear' in the arm wasn't doing so. Turns out that even though I paid over double for the quality microswiss dual extruder gears setup the metal on metal contact had it almost bond itself in a year later. I just ordered a new one for 1/4th the price that offered washers to prevent exactly that. Certainly explains why my e step values needed a big adjustment
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Mar 21, 2023 13:28
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I'm going to pull the trigger on a Prusa MK3S+ this week. A couple of questions: 1. It comes with a "sample" of Prusament PLA. I assume this is probably a tiny spool of it, so I'm thinking I'll buy an extra spool of some basic black PLA to ruin while I figure out printing with throwaway trinkets. Do I have to use Prusa's materials? Is there a good/cheaper alternative, especially for starting out? 2. I'm tempted to get the enclosure because I live in a humid climate, and the printer will live in a relatively dusty area (not crazy woodshop dust, but a room that doesn't get much traffic and is rarely dusted). Any pros/cons of the official enclosure kit? There are few reviews online. Is there anything else I should know? I've read the OP for this thread and several reviews of various FDM printers, so I'm pretty set on the MK3S+ given the things I want to do with it, but this is a whole new world for me.
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Mar 21, 2023 15:48
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Prusament is imo some of the cleanest printing and objectively most consistent and well wound filament. It comes at price premium though. $30 plus shipping is a lot when you can get decent filament for near 10 and very good filament for 20. The big killer is shipping, which fully priced me out of buying any these days. If you are ordering a printer then treat yourself though. MK3s kits come with a 1kg spool of non prusament PLA that is pretty good, or at least they used to.
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Mar 21, 2023 16:11
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Bondematt posted:Overture black PETG on textured PEI Oh I usually just use some glue stick for petg
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Mar 21, 2023 16:21
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If you are already paying international shipping on the printer then you might as well throw in a spool or two of their filament also. They have settings for it already dialed in in the slicer so it may eliminate a variable in any initial debugging. After you get good results from a known good filament then you can start experimenting with random spools of nonsense from amazon.
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Mar 21, 2023 16:22
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Yeah, Prusas (at least used to) come with a 1 kg spool of gray PLA. No, you don't have to use Prusa's materials. It will print anything except the extremely exotic materials with no problems. Prusament is a very nice filament though. Luxury edition. You don't need the enclosure unless you're planning to print a lot of ABS, and it won't help with humidity.
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Mar 21, 2023 16:22
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Prusa machines don't have any kind of DRM on the filament so you can use whatever you want in it as long as it's 1.75 mm diameter and your printer can get hot enough to melt it, though obviously caveat emptor
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Mar 21, 2023 16:24
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The price is still the price, but you can buy Prusament at Printed Solid if that helps with shipping: https://www.printedsolid.com/collections/prusament I pretty exclusively go for Prusament because my time in dialing in new filament is generally worth more than the cost difference between cheap-but-serviceable and the name brand stuff, YMMV etc.
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Mar 21, 2023 16:26
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I read people online complaining recently that they only include a small filament sample instead of a spool now. Prusament is very good in my experience. I have also had good luck with jessie from printed solid. I have the prusa enclosure. It is very nice. The only complaints I have are related to the addons. The instructions don't take them in to account very well so you need to read the installation instructions for each addon before starting to assemble. If you don't, you could end up building things only to have to disassemble later. It really should call out when the addons should be done in the main instructions in my opinion. Another gripe is that if you get the lighting and/or filter addons it doesn't come with the printed part to attach the power supply. It works fine with the power supply sitting next to it until you can print the part, but it is annoying to have to for such an expensive kit. Overall though, I love it. It is expensive but works great and is obviously very high quality.
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Mar 21, 2023 16:27
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Roll Fizzlebeef posted:I read people online complaining recently that they only include a small filament sample instead of a spool now. Now it just lists: Free sample of Prusament PLA ~ 2x25 g Sounds like I should just go ahead and buy a pack since I'm paying shipping anyway. Sagebrush posted:You don't need the enclosure unless you're planning to print a lot of ABS, and it won't help with humidity. My (very basic, possibly flawed) understanding is generally to use ABS for prototyping and PLA for things you want to use/handle? I'm mostly hoping the enclosure will help delay dust from getting into the mechanical bits. It also looks really nice in the photos. WhiteHowler fucked around with this message at 16:38 on Mar 21, 2023 |
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Mar 21, 2023 16:35
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WhiteHowler posted:Now it just lists: Free sample of Prusament PLA ~ 2x25 g PLA filament is the friendliest and easiest to print. It is pretty stiff and stable, doesn't warp, doesn't require special handling, and emits no unpleasant smells. Use PLA for everything until you have the process figured out. The main disadvantages of PLA are that it isn't very heat-resistant (will deform in a dishwasher or sometimes on a hot car dashboard) and it is relatively brittle. It's ideal for most around-the-house projects and little trinkets. ABS is tougher and more heat-resistant than PLA. It also sands and finishes better, if that is important to you. It can be a pain to print because it contracts on cooling and warps much more than PLA. It also smells like burning rubber when printing. A heated enclosure helps with both of these issues. It's a good choice where you need the best mechanical properties. PETG is also much tougher and more heat-resistant than PLA. It's comparable to ABS in toughness, but it is also more flexible than ABS or PLA. This may require a part redesign in some cases. It is relatively easy to print -- not quite as easy as PLA but much easier than ABS. It also hardly warps at all and it doesn't have any smell. A good alternative structural filament. There is no harm in handling any FDM 3D printed part. All of the plastics are inert when they're cooled and solid. Obviously if you want the enclosure, go for it. It's not strictly necessary to get started but it will keep the printer cleaner and make certain jobs easier. Prusament Vanilla White is the only "white" filament that I would ever recommend. Usually white filaments print kind of lovely because they have so much titanium dioxide powder mixed in to get that bright white color. Vanilla White is more of a pale off-white color that looks nice and prints beautifully. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 16:50 on Mar 21, 2023 |
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Mar 21, 2023 16:46
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i was looking at the bambulabs p1p as my next printer but is it really worth over just getting another like, 2-3 ender 3 neos? I'm basically looking at throughput and space, and im not sure the p1p is faster than 2 or 3 neos.
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Mar 21, 2023 16:47
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Roll Fizzlebeef posted:I read people online complaining recently that they only include a small filament sample instead of a spool now. Yeah.. I think they might not be using Misumi bearings/rods anymore either which has a lot of people upset. WhiteHowler posted:I'm mostly hoping the enclosure will help delay dust from getting into the mechanical bits. It also looks really nice in the photos. I haven't gotten an enclosure yet but the grow tent style creality enclosure from amazon has been what I'm looking at. The official prusa one seems very expensive.
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Mar 21, 2023 16:49
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Sagebrush posted:PLA filament is the friendliest and easiest to print. (etc.) Thank you for the rundown on materials! I'll stick with PLA for now. It looks like PETG is more expensive, so I'll hold off on trying that until I have a use case that requires it. I went ahead and ordered the MK3S+ with the enclosure kit and their "best sellers" pack of PLA (two blacks, a silver, a white, and a blue). Heck, if I'm going to set off a nuclear device in my bank account, might as well make it a big one. And thanks to everyone else for the hundreds of informative posts in this thread. I'll post a photo my sure-to-be-amusing first print here in a week or two.
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Mar 21, 2023 16:53
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queeb posted:i was looking at the bambulabs p1p as my next printer but is it really worth over just getting another like, 2-3 ender 3 neos? I'm basically looking at throughput and space, and im not sure the p1p is faster than 2 or 3 neos. Depends on the specifics of your space and the nature of the prints. If it’s many small/short prints then yeah more printers will effectively print as fast or faster with added flexibility. Larger prints will tilt it more towards the P1P and obviously 1 machine takes up less space than 2 or 3. P1P is also louder if that factors in. That said, if you already have a neo or more I would probably tend towards just getting more as having a standardized set of printers that share common firmware/settings/parts, especially given that Bambu parts are proprietary and there aren’t a ton of 3rd party options available yet.
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Mar 21, 2023 16:57
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gently caress though, on a big print the bambulab does it in 7.5h on a .4mm nozzle compared to 1 day on my neo, holy. i grabbed the slicer just to test a few things.
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Mar 21, 2023 17:14
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WhiteHowler posted:I'll post a photo my sure-to-be-amusing first print here in a week or two. honestly because you got a prusa it won't be that amusing because you will probably put it together, press start on one of the built-in demo models, and the print will come out perfectly the first time
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Mar 21, 2023 17:18
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queeb posted:i was looking at the bambulabs p1p as my next printer but is it really worth over just getting another like, 2-3 ender 3 neos? I'm basically looking at throughput and space, and im not sure the p1p is faster than 2 or 3 neos. It is, it's incredibly fast. Reading how fast it is does not compare to seeing how fast it actually prints. I've had jobs that take 24+ hours on my Voron that take less than 12 on my P1P. It's just stupid how fast this thing is and still pumps out incredible looking prints. Get the AMS too for the easiest multi color printing you can find. Even if you don't want it for multi color printing being able to put 4 spools of the same filament in it and have it auto switch to the next roll when it runs out of a roll is worth it.
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Mar 21, 2023 17:32
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Is there a free option out there these days for extremely basic modeling? I have an .svg I need to extrude so I can print it to use as a spray paint template.
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Mar 21, 2023 17:32
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Use Inkscape to convert that SVG to a DXF, import it into OnShape or Fusion 360, and extrude. OnShape gets my vote for best free parametric CAD software, Autodesk keep loving with Fusion.
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Mar 21, 2023 17:37
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mattfl posted:It is, it's incredibly fast. Reading how fast it is does not compare to seeing how fast it actually prints. I've had jobs that take 24+ hours on my Voron that take less than 12 on my P1P. It's just stupid how fast this thing is and still pumps out incredible looking prints. ok i bought one, gently caress yeah. very excited.
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Mar 21, 2023 17:39
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armorer posted:Is there a free option out there these days for extremely basic modeling? I have an .svg I need to extrude so I can print it to use as a spray paint template.
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Mar 21, 2023 17:41
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NewFatMike posted:Use Inkscape to convert that SVG to a DXF, import it into OnShape or Fusion 360, and extrude. Thanks, I'll grab OnShape and give this a go later today. I had free Fusion 360 set up a while back but seem to have lost it, and I remember them loving with the free licensing option as well. Edit: If I bounce off OnShape I'll try Blender. I'm confident I can figure out the steps, it's mostly just a question of what's free and supports this simple use case.
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Mar 21, 2023 17:41
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Fusion360 is what you want I think. It has SVG import built right in.
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Mar 21, 2023 17:42
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Tinkercad is browser based and can import SVGs
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Mar 21, 2023 17:46
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queeb posted:ok i bought one, gently caress yeah. very excited. You're gonna love it
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Mar 21, 2023 17:53
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im getting crushed in etsy stuff, ive averaged $400-600 a day the last week in sales, so im just piling on the printers. going to convert my garage into a workshop in a month or two, so if this works nice ill fill it with p1p's haha.
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Mar 21, 2023 17:55
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queeb posted:im getting crushed in etsy stuff, ive averaged $400-600 a day the last week in sales, so im just piling on the printers. going to convert my garage into a workshop in a month or two, so if this works nice ill fill it with p1p's haha. Need a partner lol Also, wtf are you selling lol
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Mar 21, 2023 17:57
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