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H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
They don't exist because a wet use outlet needs an in-use cover, something you can't provide in the form factor you're looking at, and it's not at all a common configuration. You would basically need to cut a new box for the in-use covered outlet, gfci it if it's not already at the breaker, then plug the camera into that. You would probably expend less effort converting the existing light fixture to the inuse outlet and buying a plugin motion flood light.

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Mustache Ride
Sep 11, 2001



H110Hawk posted:

Dishwashers are fragile, very cube shaped, and otherwise dislike being banged around. Basically the opposite of a snowblower which gets you more length than height.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ytmEfNS3ZA

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

Sirotan posted:

I got a snowblower home with the trunk bungied closed and that box was 45x22x35. I'm only finding dimensions for the actual appliance and not the box but even 4" larger in every dimension seems potentially doable: 38x28x28

Edit: got a 12ft ladder in there one time too :colbert:



No shame. 25 years ago I was dumb and didn't have much of a concept of transporting long and/or heavy goods. With that, I brought home most of my deck addition through the trunk of a Mazda MX6. (yes, I swapped the stock wheels onto the back, because the Probe swirlies would have rubbed themselves to death on the way home)

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


meatpimp posted:

No shame. 25 years ago I was dumb and didn't have much of a concept of transporting long and/or heavy goods. With that, I brought home most of my deck addition through the trunk of a Mazda MX6. (yes, I swapped the stock wheels onto the back, because the Probe swirlies would have rubbed themselves to death on the way home)



The thumbnail had me thinking the lumber was going about 6ft through the front passenger window too.

In my defense I only went about 3 blocks with half a ladder sticking out my trunk. It was still kinda dumb but less effort than carrying it the three blocks home would have been cuz I was (and am) too stubborn to rent a truck (sometimes).

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
That ladder fits I don't know what you're talking about. The wood picture threw me as well, I was half expecting a story about how they stopped short and now also needed a windshield.

Reminds me of a story from like 15+ years ago. Pickup truck in front of me at a light had two skids of wood or something loaded in the bed. The rear one was overhanging the edge with the tailgate down, so over half of it wasn't in the bed proper and the whole thing was riding low. I gave them the appropriate wide berth because it didn't look right even for a sketchy load out and it was too major of a street (6 lane artery) + too far from the hardware store. Intuition was right as they just hit the pedal off the line I assume because it was taking "too long" to get up to speed. Well about 2 truck lengths later they left their first skid perfectly in the middle of the intersection.

I did not stop to help because I am a monster and frankly they should have done 2 trips or gone SLOW.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



I carried 4x8 sheets of plywood in an '86 Escort LX hatchback.

Also brought home over half of my garage in an '04 Windstar. Minivans rock for this kind of thing*


*except sheet goods like plywood

Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!
An ex and I brought home a couch from Ikea in a 99 beetle. We were getting all sorts of attention while getting it loaded up, and I had to hold it in place from the passenger seat all the way home, but it worked.

ptier
Jul 2, 2007

Back off man, I'm a scientist.
Pillbug

PainterofCrap posted:

I carried 4x8 sheets of plywood in an '86 Escort LX hatchback.

Also brought home over half of my garage in an '04 Windstar. Minivans rock for this kind of thing*


*except sheet goods like plywood

1999 Plymouth with all the seats out could take a 4x8 nicely. Like slid right in like someone designed it specifically to handle 4x8 sheet goods. The lumber yard loader said it was the best pickup truck he had seen in years.

falz
Jan 29, 2005

01100110 01100001 01101100 01111010

H110Hawk posted:

They don't exist because a wet use outlet needs an in-use cover, something you can't provide in the form factor you're looking at, and it's not at all a common configuration. You would basically need to cut a new box for the in-use covered outlet, gfci it if it's not already at the breaker, then plug the camera into that. You would probably expend less effort converting the existing light fixture to the inuse outlet and buying a plugin motion flood light.

Thanks for explanation. Idk why but my brain seems to think this is common. Maybe not due to the GFCI thing.

Seems like I could also add a "ring" like my photo then conduit to an outlet jutting off to one side? Will look kinda dumb but probably kosher?

Shifty Pony
Dec 28, 2004

Up ta somethin'


Would they be against running network cable to near the locations? The Nest cameras don't have any native support for anything but USB-C PD because Google's Nest division is committed to the principle of "gently caress you if you don't want to use our stuff like we want you to", but there are third party Nest cam specific POE->USB-C PD units out there.

If you owed them all centrally it also makes it easier to provide proper surge suppression and battery backup.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

falz posted:

Thanks for explanation. Idk why but my brain seems to think this is common. Maybe not due to the GFCI thing.

Seems like I could also add a "ring" like my photo then conduit to an outlet jutting off to one side? Will look kinda dumb but probably kosher?

I can't think of why from a practical sense. Make sure you get a WR GFCI outlet and a surface mount kit for your box that has side entry. For the true answer go ask in the wiring thread right here in DIY. they would know for certain.

Epitope
Nov 27, 2006

Grimey Drawer
Is there a good way to anchor a deck railing without tying into joists? Maybe bolt to a metal plate under the deck boards? We're rebuilding this deck, and there's not enough clearance for deck joists. The previous deck was on furring strips.





Another idea is something like planters or benches. Is there a way to do that that properly? I.e. the entire assembly of [thing that prevents falling off] is above the deck boards (still would need to fasten to the deck boards, I assume). I was hoping not to use the roof joists, but maybe we should consider that too.


Mustache Ride
Sep 11, 2001



I'd suggest blocking between the joists where you want the posts with a 2x8 or 10 or 12 or whatever on top that is flush with the top of the joist in the areas where you want to screw your railing posts to.

Then drill through the deck board and into the flush blocking with big rear end lag bolts to secure them.

Epitope
Nov 27, 2006

Grimey Drawer
So the door sill is only about 3 inches above the roof surface. The roof slope only gives another couple inches by the time you reach the railing location. Even with thin decking, that's only 4 inches to fit a very thin "joist" (or thick "furring strip") to block between. Maybe that's viable? Seems a bit wacky

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Epitope posted:

So the door sill is only about 3 inches above the roof surface. The roof slope only gives another couple inches by the time you reach the railing location. Even with thin decking, that's only 4 inches to fit a very thin "joist" (or thick "furring strip") to block between. Maybe that's viable? Seems a bit wacky

I would attach to the face of the exterior rim joist and joists on the side.



Edit: of you have the ability too I would reinforce with blocking behind it even further so you can use 3" lags through the joist and backing.

Epitope
Nov 27, 2006

Grimey Drawer
Oh ya, I think that would be rad, but I worry that part of the roof is not suitable for a living space load. It's just attached with brackets, not cantilevered.

One idea we had is is flower pots at the beam so no one should go out there, and then a life line at the edge like that.

Don't want it to break during one of these

Epitope fucked around with this message at 21:56 on Mar 29, 2023

falz
Jan 29, 2005

01100110 01100001 01101100 01111010

Shifty Pony posted:

Would they be against running network cable to near the locations? The Nest cameras don't have any native support for anything but USB-C PD because Google's Nest division is committed to the principle of "gently caress you if you don't want to use our stuff like we want you to", but there are third party Nest cam specific POE->USB-C PD units out there.

If you owed them all centrally it also makes it easier to provide proper surge suppression and battery backup.

Huh this is cool but I don't think the cameras she has have USB c, they're strangely battery driven but have an optional ac cable.with a weird mag connector.

https://store.google.com/product/nest_cam_weatherproof_cable?hl=en-US

If there was a poe based option I'd be all about it and would get a poe switch or multi port injector to power it all

Shifty Pony
Dec 28, 2004

Up ta somethin'


falz posted:

Huh this is cool but I don't think the cameras she has have USB c, they're strangely battery driven but have an optional ac cable.with a weird mag connector.

https://store.google.com/product/nest_cam_weatherproof_cable?hl=en-US

If there was a poe based option I'd be all about it and would get a poe switch or multi port injector to power it all

There is one for that model too: Wasserstein PoE Adapter for Google Nest Cam Outdoor or Indoor, Battery - Made for Google Nest https://a.co/d/fckOrSk

Looks like some folks got a bad batch of them recently though, so be sure to check them asap if you order some.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Anyone know the best place to find service/repair manuals for household appliances? My Bosch (clothes) washer I think needs a new level sensor and I have the new one, I just need to get to the front panel and the face part doesn't seem to want to come off easily even after I've removed a few screws. I could force it a bit more but would like to know that's the solution before I do it.

I don't mind paying for a manual pdf but the sites don't look trustworthy.

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



VelociBacon posted:

Anyone know the best place to find service/repair manuals for household appliances? My Bosch (clothes) washer I think needs a new level sensor and I have the new one, I just need to get to the front panel and the face part doesn't seem to want to come off easily even after I've removed a few screws. I could force it a bit more but would like to know that's the solution before I do it.

I don't mind paying for a manual pdf but the sites don't look trustworthy.

There is generally no singular online place in 2023 for manuals, usually manufacturer site is best. For older models it is hit or miss whether the manufacturer will provide old PDFs.

For everything else there is google and random bot generated SEO’d search results you can pay for.

If you provide the model # we can look, but you may have exhausted the search already.

DrBouvenstein
Feb 28, 2007

I think I'm a doctor, but that doesn't make me a doctor. This fancy avatar does.

H110Hawk posted:

Why do you want to take action around the fence now? Is it dilapidated? Falling down/hazardous? Just don't like it? Spite?

It's rotting everywhere, about 4 sections falling over (one basically all the way fallen over into a neighbor's yard, just need to wait till later in spring to remove/clean it up), etc... It's not remotely salvageable. And that neighbor has two small children )I want to say 3 and, like...18 months? Very young) so def. don't want to risk them stepping on a nail or efven just getting splinters.

quote:

Are you sure it's 100% your fence? Like you've had a survey personally done, or at a minimum there are existing survey pins driven into the ground? If it's not 100% inside your lot (check local codes on what this means, there could be some setback/margin of error here, I haven't seen it but local municipalities number in the thousands) but if you unilaterally tear down a lot-line fence you can be on the hook for the entire replacement cost.

Like...85% sure it's all my fence. The "inside" faces me on all three sides, and I haven't had a survey done independently but one was done at time of purchase ~3 years ago and nothing came up about the fence being "outside" the property line.

quote:

On a "legal" side - assuming there is no HOA your city (et al) might have a shared fence ordinance which spells out the minimum legal relationship between you and your neighbors in regards to a shared lot line fence. Often times this says things like neighbors must negotiate in good faith blah blah blah on style, size, material of the fence, plus the costs around labor to install it, and split the costs 50/50. You can agree to anything else really, but the important part is you agree on it, and I suggest you put it in writing. From there sometimes neighbors can compell you through the courts to split the costs on a lot line fence of some standard. Near me it's like a 8' wooden fence installed by a licensed contractor. If you hate your neighbor enough it can wind up as a lien on your title. My city for example has a template form to collaborate with your neighbors on to fill out, you both sign, and that's your agreement on the lot line fence, who is paying what, etc.

Not in any HOA, and I've tried looking for any sort of "Fence regulations" in the town, and the only ones I find are regarding when a permit is/is not needed, and a few height/setback/location requirements, but most of THOSE are only regarding near roads/driveways and maintaining a good sight triangle.

So looks like from a legal standpoint, I am PROBABLY in the ok to tear down, but from a moral/good neighbor standpoint, I should at least consult with them and let them know that its just not possible for me to afford a full replacement now, possibly ever... and I'd be willing to split costs. Otherwise best I can do is small "spot" fixes on the really bad/falling over parts.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

DrBouvenstein posted:

So looks like from a legal standpoint, I am PROBABLY in the ok to tear down, but from a moral/good neighbor standpoint, I should at least consult with them and let them know that its just not possible for me to afford a full replacement now, possibly ever... and I'd be willing to split costs. Otherwise best I can do is small "spot" fixes on the really bad/falling over parts.

You should have this conversation with your municipality's code enforcement first and then your neighbors after that.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

DrBouvenstein posted:

It's rotting everywhere, about 4 sections falling over (one basically all the way fallen over into a neighbor's yard, just need to wait till later in spring to remove/clean it up), etc... It's not remotely salvageable. And that neighbor has two small children )I want to say 3 and, like...18 months? Very young) so def. don't want to risk them stepping on a nail or efven just getting splinters.

This is all you need to do this 100% guilt free. "Hey guys I'm ripping out the fence because it's an obvious hazard. If we want a new one I'm willing to split the costs of a lot-line fence." Hazards jump past a lot of pleasantries, because you can just get sued if the kid steps on a nail in a rotten board from the fence falling down. Your homeowners insurance would defend you, but once you tell the neighbor "I know it's a hazard" they won't.

Then make sure your yard isn't an attractive nuisance.

https://blacklinehhp.com/fence-laws-in-california/ This is an example of some random website I've never heard of discussing the shared fence responsibilities in California. I don't remember where you live, but it's what I was poorly referencing from memory.

Epitope
Nov 27, 2006

Grimey Drawer
Sounds like blocking between sleepers isn't wacky, and "may" support a railing. Cool.

https://www.jlconline.com/how-to/exteriors/decks-over-roofs_o

quote:

When sleepers are more than 4 inches high, we block between them to keep them vertical, leaving a space underneath the blocking to allow for drainage.

When the sleepers are tall and enough blocking has been added, they can be used to anchor railing posts. When the sleepers are not beefy enough, we’ve resorted to custom-welded steel angles. Anchoring posts to sleepers can be tricky structurally, but if our engineer can come up with a solution that meets the IRC’s 200-pound load requirement (500 pounds after applying the required 2.5 safety factor), this approach prevents leaks at posts anchored through the roofing membrane to the house framing.

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


Got a new mole hill in the front yard so it looks like I'll be murdering my second mole in as many weeks. I hate the "having to care about how a yard looks" part of home ownership.

Thufir
May 19, 2004

"The fucking Mayans were right."
Hot tip: you don’t!

(ymmv with codes/HOA)

DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.
I've had success with my HOA ignoring my weed-filled garbage lawn (with moles!) for the last 6 years so far.

Only to have the HOA bitch about a sign put up by a contractor while they were doing active work on a project approved by the HOA when the rules explicitly state that contractor signs are OK during active work :shrug:

Not looking forward to replacing my lawn. Currently lovely bermuda. Going to probably have to re-sod with Zoysia. Want to do a clover lawn but I suspect the HOA won't approve it. Might could do a fescue/clover mix but then I've got fescue which isn't a great choice for zone 7b.

Not a huge fan of zoysia, but I just want a lawn I can mostly ignore goddammit :mad:

Anza Borrego
Feb 11, 2005

Ovis canadensis nelsoni
Have you looked at No Mow or Low Mow turf for your area? Usually it’s a fescue blend but it really varies by geography and rainfall, not just by climate zone.

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




Anza Borrego posted:

Have you looked at No Mow or Low Mow turf for your area? Usually it’s a fescue blend but it really varies by geography and rainfall, not just by climate zone.

I went the easy route and let the clover and creeping charlie take over my lawn. From a distance, it looks like grass and doesn't need to be mowed.

Toebone
Jul 1, 2002

Start remembering what you hear.
Clover lawns are the way to go, grass is for suckers

DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.
Around here it's generally fescue, bermuda, or zoysia.

Of the 3, zoysia seems to be the lowest maintenance and most drought tolerant. I can deal with mowing once a week.

Fescue is tough in our area because it's a cool season grass not too drought tolerant. I have zero interest in watering my lawn ever, let alone once or twice a week.

I'm in central NC so we have moderate winters and hot/humid summers.

I've done some research on it, but not a shitload, but from what I've found so far Zoysia is the best option for "I don't want to deal with it."

But in any case I just can't wait to get rid of the bermuda. It's the worst goddamn thing ever.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.

Toebone posted:

Clover lawns are the way to go, grass is for suckers

Clover is a sign of a healthy lawn IMO, lawns without it look crap.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
I toss a bunch of clover seed throughout my lawn annually to keep it spreading. I'm a big fan, and this year I'm planning on getting rid of more bluegrass for some kind of other ground cover that's native to Colorado.

falz
Jan 29, 2005

01100110 01100001 01101100 01111010
I love me some frequent lawn sits in grass in summer. Actual grass is way more cozy for that. Just sayin

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



His Divine Shadow posted:

Clover is a sign of a healthy lawn IMO, lawns without it look crap.

I have zoysia and it gets really pissed at anything that's not zoysia, except dandelions and onion grass :shrug:

PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 19:17 on Mar 31, 2023

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


I don't actually do anything to encourage grass from growing in my yard but whatever kind is there I'm fine with because my guinea pigs get to graze on it occasionally once the weather is nice enough for them to be outside.

Highly recommend adding violets to your lawn because they don't grow very high and in the spring it'll look like this


DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.
My understanding is that clover works great along side fescue, but it does NOT play well with bermuda or zoysia.

I guess tell that to the patch of clover slowly taking over a 2'x4' patch of bermuda between my street and the sidewalk!

smashmyradio
May 1, 2021
Hello, hope this is a reasonable place to ask this but... mouldy houses???

I'm looking to buy a house and I found a dream house I can afford but it is seriously mouldy. It's a 120 years old, 1270sqft, two stories with a dugout basement. There's an area where the roof leaked and they fixed the roof but not the ceiling. There's all this water staining down the walls, mould in the corners, probably stank but I was wearing a respirator. Even on the main floor, there was some real condensation on the windows and even a little on the walls, so it seems to just be poorly ventilated altogether. Sounds gross for sure, and I figured it was beyond rescue but I actually viewed this house 6 months ago and it's still on the market, and still on my mind. They even reduced the price by 50k.

Is it possible to remediate this in any way? Can i just rip off the second story and build a new one? I'm not interested in living with the mould whatsoever, and there are further issues such as an illegal cesspit instead of a normal septic tank for modern humans, so maybe i'm wasting my time. But I really want to know what my other options are.

All google can offer me is "get professional mould removal" which does not seem adequate. Does anyone have some experience in dank houses? Or a better idea of where I should post this?

slave to my cravings
Mar 1, 2007

Got my mind on doritos and doritos on my mind.
Do not buy the dank house

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Mustache Ride
Sep 11, 2001



You will pay up to $30/sqft to remove the mold, and then more on top to replace everything they took out just to make it liveable. Unless you either plan that in to the purchase cost and have another place to live during the effort it's not worth it.

The other worry is they start the removal and find knob and tube and lead pipes and asbestos and whoops now the house is double or triple the price.

I'd pass on the dank house.

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