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armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

armorer posted:

Drying further overnight maybe made a little bit more improvement in the brittleness, but it's hard to tell for sure. I'm printing off a new roll now but I'll try this newly dried one soon to see how it prints. It was unusable before this because of how brittle it was, so if I can use it now I'll call that a win. The filament has gone from snapping if you bent it even a tiny bit to now requiring that you bend it back and forth in the same place repeatedly several times, and even then you need to twist it a little once it's weakened to really get it to come apart. So all in all it's a pretty dramatic improvement.

I never reported back after printing with this roll - It prints fine now!

I used the Sunlu Filadryer S2 if people are curious, and it brought back a roll of PLA that was totally unusable. I have some other old filament I'll probably run through it too before I try printing with them. So probably a good purchase for the money if you have some old filament that's not printing well, as it'll pay for itself if it revives a few rolls. Definitely worth it in my case.

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Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008

mewse posted:

I installed a hardened steel nozzle from triangle lab with sort sort of nano coating on it, and it seems magical at not having PETG accumulate on the nozzle.

However, thermal conductivity seemed bad and PLA layer adhesion was terrible (it was a new build so I'm not sure the nozzle was entirely to blame).

Is nickel plated copper the way to go if I don't 100% require wear resistance? Thermal conductivity + no globbing PETG?

Did you pid tune again after changing the bit of heat conducting metal on the end of your heater block ? :)

And yes it's possible you need to change your print temps because the nozzle is different. Just like you do with different brands of pla. As someone told me: set your temp as hot as possible for the material (barring any cooling issue you have) to hand wave away any problems with speed or pressure

The Chairman
Jun 30, 2003

But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun
I have to run my hardened steel nozzles about 10 degrees C hotter than my brass ones for the same results.

mewse
May 2, 2006

The Chairman posted:

I have to run my hardened steel nozzles about 10 degrees C hotter than my brass ones for the same results.

Yeah this is basically what I was seeing and was running petg at 250c.

I'm gonna leave that printer with the hardened steel nozzle alone, I've just been frustrated with petg blobs on my main printer with a normal brass nozzle. I'll try plated copper when it shows up, in the mean time I'll install the ripoff CHT with ptfe coating.

SubNat
Nov 27, 2008

Also to all y'all with P1Ps: Apparently Bambu Labs are upgrading the P1P to include light + camera, and are retroactively upgrading them with the LED + Cameras for existing customers, if you didn't get them through an early-bird order.
https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/12alae3/were_excited_to_announce_that_bambu_lab_p1p_is/

https://eu.store.bambulab.com/en-no/pages/bambu-lab-p1p-update

quote:

But that's not all - we're committed to making sure that all of our customers have the best possible experience with P1P.
For those who purchased P1P without the early bird gift, we'd like to offer a one-time compensation to send the camera and LED light for free.
Keep an eye out for an email from us this week with a gift voucher to redeem the camera and LED light at our official web store.

I wonder how much of that is them wanting to make it more competitive against the Prusa Mk4 now that it exists.
I have no idea how it'll work in practice if you bought it from a different retailer than Bambu directly, though.

e: I guess this means all Bambu printers going forwards will ship with the LED light... but the X1 will be the only one without a camera. Classic ignored middle child.

SubNat fucked around with this message at 18:40 on Apr 6, 2023

Dr. Fishopolis
Aug 31, 2004

ROBOT

SubNat posted:

Slice engineering has a no-stick coating/paint you can buy that might be similar to the one that was on that nozzle, it might broaden your options a bit.

https://www.sliceengineering.com/products/plastic-repellent-paint

That's PTFE paint btw, so it doesn't really solve the problem for high temp filaments that you would want an all-metal hotend for.

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums
I'm replacing my Bambu mainboard fan this afternoon and I would like to complain again what a huge pain in the rear end replacing this part is.

Also the fan came shipped in an envelope along with two rolls of filament and obviously has been under some squashing forces, I hope that little bit of packing paper wrapping the fan protected it enough. I'm going to be even grumpier if I have to go through this again :mad:


e: There's a stripped screw on my machine (yay) and once you get in there, watch the gently caress out -- do not drop any of the little screws because that's a hazard, you're working directly above the perforated shield of the power supply.

Ultimately my Bambu works and looks good but once I got inside mine, I see "get this loving done and shipped out the door asap" energy to how the insides look.

The Eyes Have It fucked around with this message at 22:56 on Apr 6, 2023

Listerine
Jan 5, 2005

Exquisite Corpse
Is the MK4 specifically supposed to be an answer to the Bambu from Prusa? I'm gearing up in a few months to put in for a new printer at work and was heavily leaning towards a Bambu, but I know Prusa takes purchase orders from my institution so if it's a comparable product I might lean that way.

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

Listerine posted:

Is the MK4 specifically supposed to be an answer to the Bambu from Prusa? I'm gearing up in a few months to put in for a new printer at work and was heavily leaning towards a Bambu, but I know Prusa takes purchase orders from my institution so if it's a comparable product I might lean that way.

Prusa is still a bed slinger. I don’t see it being any type of answer to Bambu’s 2 printers.

The Chairman
Jun 30, 2003

But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun
yeah, the MK4 is just Prusa iterating on what it does well and not really a response to anyone else, if anything the Bambu was a preemptive attempt at filling the same niche as the XL

Here4DaGangBang
Dec 3, 2004

I beat my dick like it owes me money!

Listerine posted:

Is the MK4 specifically supposed to be an answer to the Bambu from Prusa? I'm gearing up in a few months to put in for a new printer at work and was heavily leaning towards a Bambu, but I know Prusa takes purchase orders from my institution so if it's a comparable product I might lean that way.

Aside from features, it seems to be accepted based on various things people have picked up on that the Mk4 has been in solid development for over a year at this point.

Ambrose Burnside
Aug 30, 2007

pensive
very cool dispatch from dental printing: rodin sculpture, a nanoceramic resin that's +50% ceramic filler by volume and which works much like conventional bulk ceramic materials, including being very strong (160-185 MPa flexural strength, 6500MPa flexural modulus) and which can be stained and glazed so dentures and permanent installations look more natural. normally the barrier to entry for working with this stuff is a $25000k+ milling machine and a whole suite of ceramists' tools and components, but now you can run robust ceramic-adjacent parts on a $400 printer.






$600 USD per litre, but small-time dental labs will make that back very quickly if this opens the door to an entire new area of work

tracecomplete
Feb 26, 2017

I now want to start a dental lab. gently caress

BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

PROCEED
I just want any miscast pieces.

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums
That's loving awesome.

mewse
May 2, 2006

mewse posted:

I'll try plated copper when it shows up, in the mean time I'll install the ripoff CHT with ptfe coating.

Follow up: I've installed one of these fake CHT nozzles and I got PTFE coated on a whim, it is shedding PETG build-up like it's allergic

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums
I've been printing parts for a work thing, and every big print I've done in the Bambu is curled to a degree easily noticeable to the eye (and definitely noticeable when you try to put parts together) It's not lifting of the print bed, but it's definitely curled. 0.4, 0.6, 50% speed, normal speed, cool plate for PLA and hot plate for PETG-CF... poo poo just curls on big prints :shrug:

My enclosed MK3 and Mini both curl only a very tiny bit by comparison. Wonder if it's Bambu's filament formulations? I'm exclusively using Prusament & Bambu's house brand stuff on the respective printers.

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

The Eyes Have It posted:

I've been printing parts for a work thing, and every big print I've done in the Bambu is curled to a degree easily noticeable to the eye (and definitely noticeable when you try to put parts together) It's not lifting of the print bed, but it's definitely curled. 0.4, 0.6, 50% speed, normal speed, cool plate for PLA and hot plate for PETG-CF... poo poo just curls on big prints :shrug:

My enclosed MK3 and Mini both curl only a very tiny bit by comparison. Wonder if it's Bambu's filament formulations? I'm exclusively using Prusament & Bambu's house brand stuff on the respective printers.

I've printed some very large things on my P1P and have yet had any issues with curling, however I'm using the textured PEI plate for all my prints.

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums
Weird. Prints aren't lifting from the plate though. I have a textured plate, might as well give it a try.

Maybe it's got to do with the fact my workshop is on the chilly side? I wouldn't have thought so since the Bambu is enclosed, but maybe.

E: I should maybe slam some Prusament into the Bambu as a test.

codo27
Apr 21, 2008

Oh poo poo the SV06 is on sale. Do I pull the trigger? Do you need anything besides the unit to get up and running? I assume you get a lil bit of filament with it or no?

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

The Eyes Have It posted:

Weird. Prints aren't lifting from the plate though. I have a textured plate, might as well give it a try.

Maybe it's got to do with the fact my workshop is on the chilly side? I wouldn't have thought so since the Bambu is enclosed, but maybe.

E: I should maybe slam some Prusament into the Bambu as a test.

What kind of cooling do you have going on if you are printing PLA fully enclosed?

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums
My enclosures all have the tops propped open when printing, I didn't mean to imply my printers always print PLA sealed up entirely, more that they're all enclosed to a similar degree.

In my experience curling comes from no enclosure and/or bed too cold (bed adhesion isn't a problem I seem to have) so I haven't really considered that angle as a suspect.

E: Part geometry makes a diff too, but these parts turn out okay on the Prusas with Prusament.

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

The Eyes Have It posted:

My enclosures all have the tops propped open when printing, I didn't mean to imply my printers always print PLA sealed up entirely, more that they're all enclosed to a similar degree.

In my experience curling comes from no enclosure and/or bed too cold (bed adhesion isn't a problem I seem to have) so I haven't really considered that angle as a suspect.

I gotcha, just throwing out things.

I print all my PLA at 65 bed temp and 220 nozzle and have run through probably 10+ different brands of filament without any issues on the pei textured plate.

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums
What filament are you using as your go-to? I'll give it and your numbers a shot as a test & copy you :v:

I've been sticking with Bambu's stuff and their baked-in profiles so far.

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

The Eyes Have It posted:

What filament are you using as your go-to? I'll give it and your numbers a shot as a test & copy you :v:

I've been sticking with Bambu's stuff and their baked-in profiles so far.

I don't really have a go to, but some of the larger prints I've used Overture/Polymaker/Sunlu/Atomic

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums
Thanks for the tips, I have some new leads to follow up :cheerdoge:

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

codo27 posted:

Oh poo poo the SV06 is on sale. Do I pull the trigger? Do you need anything besides the unit to get up and running? I assume you get a lil bit of filament with it or no?
You get a very very little bit, not much more than enough to do a couple of test prints.

As someone who owns two 06's and an 06 Plus... it seems as though you might be taking your chances these days with Sovol. I have very early productions versions of both machines, and they run great, but I'm seeing more and more posts lately in the Sovol FB group about verifiable out-of-the-box issues. I think they're trying to grow a little too fast and their quality might be slipping a bit.

The 06 is a really really good machine at its core, lots of higher-end features at a ludicrously low price, but it might be a dice roll as to whether you get a Monday or a Friday machine.

Neo Rasa
Mar 8, 2007
Everyone should play DUKE games.

:dukedog:
What's up with Creality's Halot resin printers? They seem to review really well but no one uses them? Is there something wrong with them or just like a circle of no one supports this so don't get it so it gets no support? The Pro seems like a good middle ground and goes on sale a lot.

Is it because of Creality's bizarro naming system giving paralysis? Like I looked at Elegoo's resin printers on their site and it's extremely clear how they differ but Creality is like, why did they make one called the "pro" and then make one that's the bigger and more expensive than it called the "lite" lol, the attributes are listed in different order/inconsistently on each page, etc.

For just like minis or whatever are the more recent 8K resin printers even a thing you can perceive? I was reading that the overall resolution is less important than the microns/pixel size as far as detail goes but this isn't really listed on a lot of these sites. Does that make sense?


Acid Reflux posted:

Elegoo's laser is no different than any of the other open-frame diode units you can buy right now, and they're perfectly safe to operate as long as you're not a complete moron about it. I have an Ortur machine that I use at least a few times a week for all sorts of different projects. Adequate ventilation, proper laser-rated goggles appropriate for the wavelength in use, area closed off from other people and pets, a handy fire extinguisher, and most importantly, operator presence while the job is running. Never turn your back on a laser. Absolutely zero problems in however many months it's been since I bought the thing, it's really pretty great.

I appreciate you pointing this out because as I try to learn about this stuff more it's been hard to tell sometimes with all these products and processes if something is problem because it's A Problem or if something is a problem because of emphasized part from the person talking about it.

Neo Rasa fucked around with this message at 02:56 on Apr 9, 2023

Edwardly
Jun 28, 2011

Got the Bambu P1P in earlier this week.. I printed several butts QUICK. Jeez this thing is fast. Other than those, it's been 24/7 printing the outer bezel to add a pegboard to the outside of the printer for hanging tools on it.

Super happy to have seen the few prints from this thread in the Bambu P1P & folks saying how it was easier. A good purchase.

I'm certain after disassembling the ender 3 pro to return it that the hot plate was just warped as hell & the firmware was donked up where it completely ignored the CR Touch auto bed leveling. Get what you pay for, I guess, and I just don't have it in me to faff about with the printer.


SubNat posted:

Also to all y'all with P1Ps: Apparently Bambu Labs are upgrading the P1P to include light + camera, and are retroactively upgrading them with the LED + Cameras for existing customers, if you didn't get them through an early-bird order.
https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/12alae3/were_excited_to_announce_that_bambu_lab_p1p_is/

https://eu.store.bambulab.com/en-no/pages/bambu-lab-p1p-update

I wonder how much of that is them wanting to make it more competitive against the Prusa Mk4 now that it exists.
I have no idea how it'll work in practice if you bought it from a different retailer than Bambu directly, though.

e: I guess this means all Bambu printers going forwards will ship with the LED light... but the X1 will be the only one without a camera. Classic ignored middle child.

As soon as I received it they sent me a code to receive a free webcam & light. It's in the mail! Pretty neat.

GWBBQ
Jan 2, 2005


ImplicitAssembler posted:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4kQZnSzZHD0

This is pretty neat. I might adapt this on my next upgrade.
Between wear on the magnets and the non-linear response to Z wobble, you're better off spending the same money on a traditional Oldham coupling and a coupling between the Z screw with threading and a set screw as long as your screw is actually aligned.

BadMedic posted:

Ok can your printer's Z-offset just...change over time?
I redid the bed leveling on my N3, and now I get a perfectly level first layer that is *way* too loving close to the bed.
This is despite the Z-offset being the same its been for months

Fakeedit:
I just started a first layer test to calibrate it, and the nozzle was literally dragging across the bed what the gently caress
Could the bed probe be broken???
Is the shift consistent across layers? Check the specs on stepper motors and make sure your e-steps are calibrated properly and not at a finer resolution than the motors themselves can handle, try backing off leveling springs as much as possible while keeping it level, and if you can probe or measure nozzle height, go down the rabbit hole of how to minimize Z backlash.

w00tmonger posted:

Elegoo is releasing a laser cutter on Kickstarter. This is an incredibly bad idea right?

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/elegooofficial/elegoo-phecda-laser-engraver-and-cutter
It's a 455nm laser, so it's well into the visible range and can't do acrylic or anything transparent to the visible spectrum. I jumped on it with all the accessories at early bird prices, but I'm pretty sure I'm going to cancel since I'm less than 15 minutes from the maker space's Glowforge that I can use for the cost of materials. It looks good for the capabilities and the price, but I feel like the target audiences are people who either want a laser engraver that doesn't break the bank for DIY projects and people who don't realize their side hustle income from selling garbage on Etsy is about to turn into lump sums from GoFundMe campaigns when they leave it running unattended and burn their houses down.

Aurium
Oct 10, 2010

GWBBQ posted:

Between wear on the magnets and the non-linear response to Z wobble, you're better off spending the same money on a traditional Oldham coupling and a coupling between the Z screw with threading and a set screw as long as your screw is actually aligned.

The design in that video is a magnet wear free version, and shows the wear of the previous design. It's also a more constrained motion, though I don't know if that affects the non-linear response you're talking about.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

GWBBQ posted:

Between wear on the magnets and the non-linear response to Z wobble, you're better off spending the same money on a traditional Oldham coupling and a coupling between the Z screw with threading and a set screw as long as your screw is actually aligned.
It is an oldham coupling in most aspects. Just using ground balls and rails as the interfaces. It's a ~better~ oldham coupling, because it also allows for angular misalignment, rahter than just axial. The magnets are non-contact.

Since leadscrews are pretty low torque, it's a really good answer to the problem.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


codo27 posted:

Oh poo poo the SV06 is on sale. Do I pull the trigger? Do you need anything besides the unit to get up and running? I assume you get a lil bit of filament with it or no?

Check Amazon. If the price is similar buy there so if you lose the QC Lotto you can return easily.
I got mine it runs well.. no lube needed on bearings. Ran we out of the box.

You will need fillament. Overture pla is the most forgiving of the ones I've tried but once you get into it IIIDMAX is good quality and cheap. I use it a lot to print out a concept before going to something like a color change silk to not waste material from a 30 dollar roll first.

TVs Ian
Jun 1, 2000

Such graceful, delicate creatures.
Well, the Creality K1/K1 Max seem to be CoreXY Bambu equivalents, more or less. No AMS, though I would imagine you could get them to work with an ERCF, depending on how accessible their version of Klipper is. Otherwise it's got the lidar, AI camera, etc.

Guess I'll wait and see what the reviews look like once people actually get their hands on them. The regular version is supposed to ship in a couple of weeks, so hopefully soon.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

It bothers me that Bambu calls their system a "lidar," because from what I can tell, it is absolutely not. A true LIDAR is a system that measures distance to an object with laser emissions, either using time-of-flight or interferometry techniques or both. Based on the hardware I can identify in the unit and patents held by the company, it appears that the Bambu "lidar" is printing a test pattern, observing the trace width with a small camera, and using computer vision to optimize the layer height based on that data. That's a cool technique but the name is wrong!! :mad:

Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 16:56 on Apr 9, 2023

Bondematt
Jan 26, 2007

Not too stupid

Sagebrush posted:

It bothers me that Bambu calls their system a "lidar," because from what I can tell, it is absolutely not. A true LIDAR is a system that measures distance to an object with laser emissions, either using time-of-flight or interferometry techniques or both. Based on the hardware I can identify in the unit and patents held by the company, it appears that the Bambu "lidar" is printing a test pattern, observing the trace width with a small camera, and using computer vision to optimize the layer height based on that data. That's a cool technique but the name is wrong!! :mad:

More like Liedar

The Chairman
Jun 30, 2003

But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

TVs Ian posted:

Well, the Creality K1/K1 Max seem to be CoreXY Bambu equivalents, more or less. No AMS, though I would imagine you could get them to work with an ERCF, depending on how accessible their version of Klipper is. Otherwise it's got the lidar, AI camera, etc.

Guess I'll wait and see what the reviews look like once people actually get their hands on them. The regular version is supposed to ship in a couple of weeks, so hopefully soon.

no AMS equivalent is disappointing, but it looks like it might be a nice step up from my Ender 3

SubNat
Nov 27, 2008

And there, finished my first test run of PLA + PETG printing in my X1. Used PETG only for the support interfaces, nowhere else, so there was less purging than if the supports had been 100% PETG. (225C for both, for anyone curious. The PETG I have prints fairly well at 225.)
It worked really well, most supports popped off cleanly the moment I twisted a bit, and the undersides are pretty good. Definitely a nice option for miniatures and the like when I print those in PLA.
There were a couple areas where the interface had stuck to the model after the support was removed, but they were as easy to peel off as wood glue off your hand. (Also translucent PETG means it doesn't matter too much if a bit is left over.)

I do wish it was easier to get it to do bigger interface regions though, with tree supports it just does a tiny little dot of interface and then it's done, but some of those actually fell off as the print progressed.
(Next print will try 'classic' snug supports, since those seem to lay down fairly large interface zones.)

Still, really like how Bambu and Orca allow you to set the amount of walls (Bambu+Orca), and brim size (Orca) on tree supports.
Giving them an extra wall, and a large enough brim that they fuse with their neighbours makes them so much more resilient.

The Chairman posted:

no AMS equivalent is disappointing, but it looks like it might be a nice step up from my Ender 3

They're probably waiting to see if the MMU3 is worth cloning, first. :v:

DC to Daylight
Feb 13, 2012

I'm having a problem with my printer that I can't figure out.

The printer is a Sunlu S8. I've had about a year of excellent service out of it. I print nothing but plain PLA. The printer is stock except for replacing the plastic extruder arm with a metal one.

Around a two weeks ago, I had a nozzle clog - the first one on this printer. I was able to unclog it with a poker and kept going. When I finished that spool, I loaded a new spool from a brand I haven't used before. Nozzle clog on the first print. I couldn't easily unclog it with the poker so I ended up installing a new nozzle. I can push filament through, great.

I try to print again and maybe two hours in, the extruder starts skipping. Seems like another clogged nozzle. Its very hard to push filament through. I disassemble the hot end, make sure there is no debris in there or anything funky going on and install yet another new nozzle. For good measure, I also crack open a new spool of my preferred filament. It extrudes nicely.

I go to print and, its better than before, but the extruder skips sometimes, resulting in poor print quality. It will print for a little bit, maybe 5 to 30 seconds, then start skipping for a few seconds. When I try to push filament manually, sometimes its easy, sometimes its not. It almost feels like something is shedding particles which cause the nozzle to occasionally drop in conductance and then dislodge.

Pushing on the extruder arm doesn't seem to help (i.e. not a weak spring or something). I let it suffer through a first layer and it still skips on the second layer, so I don't think it has anything to do with bed leveling. I'm back to using my preferred filament with the same settings and even the same gcode file I have printed successfully before, so I don't think excessive feed rate is the problem.

I'm kind of out of ideas at this point. I have a replacement bowden tube on order - that doesn't seem likely to fix it, but it was cheap enough and might help. The extruder gears look fine - no damage and I cleaned off any plastic fragments. I've adjusted and tightened everything in the hot end multiple times by now. Ditto for the extruder. I suppose the batch of nozzles I got could be lovely or something - they've been hanging around for a few years. But they look OK, I've tried two of them and the whole intermittent nature of the "clogging" doesn't make sense.

Any thoughts?

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Bodanarko
May 29, 2009

DC to Daylight posted:

I'm having a problem with my printer that I can't figure out.

How's your heatbreak fan doing? I had a clogging issue plaguing me last week and had cold pulls ending up super weird and eventually realized one of the fan blades had broken off spontaneously (i probably poked it with an allen key while running) and caused the fan to jam up completely. This would result in it running decently for a few minutes before eventually clogging while the heat creep took over the whole heatbreak.

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