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Jenkl posted:I've got two issues with my vinyl siding. You should replace the section. ‘Loose’ covers a lot of ground. If you have runs that are flapping along the bottom, you should be able to pop them back in. If you have weird little cut sections, we’d have to see them. The siding should be able to move a little to expand & contract in the sun/shade.
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Apr 20, 2023 22:28
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I installed some posts in my backyard to make a grape trellis, and to string lights on. Each post is 12ft from each other and about 9 feet tall from ground level. I want to turn it into a pergola, but if I install the fourth post, it will be in the middle of my patio, kind of in the way of things. I guess I could do that, but I'm looking for other suggestions. Possibly I could run a 16ft beam on top of the bottom-right post and attach it to my house, but I don't really like the idea of drilling holes in my house. Would it be feasible to build a square pergola with just three posts?  Left is the house, middle grey is patio, brown stars are posts already installed, red is where the fourth post would be in relation. e:   I feel like the square pergola that is missing a support beam would fail if too much weight was added on the corner Fozzy The Bear fucked around with this message at 02:39 on Apr 21, 2023 |
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Apr 21, 2023 02:33
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Fozzy The Bear posted:e: The second build uses welded steel, which is really strong (assuming the welds are good of course). I quite like the visual design of the first build, though. It's certainly more interesting than a square design, with nearly the same amount of shade. If you're committed to the square build, an engineer could do the math to figure out what kind of beam is needed to support X amount of load without deflecting more than Y amount. Or you could just overbuild things excessively. Keep in mind that the horizontal beams would be pulling up on their support columns, assuming you add triangular braces as in the second image (which you should, they'll help combat leverage).
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Apr 21, 2023 03:18
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PainterofCrap posted:You should replace the section. No cuts but its in the middle. The "loose":  The crack, which is at the bottom: 
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Apr 21, 2023 03:36
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Jenkl posted:No cuts but its in the middle. that, you should be able to pop back in. Jenkl posted:The crack, which is at the bottom: That, you'd replace. If you can't match the color exactly (they absolutely still make that shade, but they all fade with age), consider pulling a piece from behind shrubbery or some other limited-view area and replacing it with that, and using a new piece where it won't easily be seen. There are plenty of videos to show how to remove & reset vinyl siding. It is not difficult, unless the siding is fragile with age/UV exposure.
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Apr 21, 2023 04:36
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Awesome, thank you kindly sir
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Apr 21, 2023 14:37
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The wood on top of a pergola barely weighs anything and wouldn’t experience much load (compared to a flat roof that might bear the weight of snow/leaves/uplift from strong winds). Triangles are stronger than rectangles anyways, with appropriate bracing (ie diagonal/knee braces, as seen in your first picture) you ought to be good to go. E: actually I noticed that the rightmost horizontal beam doesn’t have braces on it. I assume they did it like that for more room. I’m no engineer so maybe it’s ok but i would include them just to be safe lil poopendorfer fucked around with this message at 18:51 on Apr 21, 2023 |
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Apr 21, 2023 18:48
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Oh drat, I spaced each post 12 ft apart, and if I keep it a triangle, I will need a 17ft diagonal piece of lumber. Do they even sell lumber longer than 16ft?
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Apr 21, 2023 23:06
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Fozzy The Bear posted:Oh drat, I spaced each post 12 ft apart, and if I keep it a triangle, I will need a 17ft diagonal piece of lumber. Do they even sell lumber longer than 16ft? Yes, but you better sit down before you ask for the price.
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Apr 21, 2023 23:13
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just biscuit join three 6' pieces and cut a foot off the last one. 
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Apr 21, 2023 23:23
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you can make your own three-part laminate by sistering three 1x pieces together, with the cuts in different spots. You'll need a lot of clamps. another thing you could do is add a peak, running from your middle post up to a spot halfway along the hypotenuse, and join 8 1/2 foot boards at that spot. It wouldn't have to be a very high peak to get enough angle that the boards will press against each other, and it has the added benefit of being a little more interesting to look at? I made a quick, very lovely ms paint to show what I mean 
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Apr 22, 2023 00:12
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Fozzy The Bear posted:Oh drat, I spaced each post 12 ft apart, and if I keep it a triangle, I will need a 17ft diagonal piece of lumber. Do they even sell lumber longer than 16ft?
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Apr 22, 2023 00:26
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I'm planning to add a circuit to my garage to power a heat pump water heater. The run for the new circuit is going to take it right past my laundry, which is currently gas-powered. Is there any particular benefit to switching these to electric? Both units are a bit over ten years old, but still work fine. I guess it doesn't hurt to add a 30V outlet next to each one, for future-proofing if nothing else. I'll also be adding a sub-panel, since my main is nearly completely full. Anything else I should be thinking about while I have an electrician around? I already have an exterior 30A outlet for charging an electric vehicle / hypothetical welding if I ever decide to pick up that hobby.
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Apr 22, 2023 01:02
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I'm planning to add a circuit to my garage to power a heat pump water heater. The run for the new circuit is going to take it right past my laundry, which is currently gas-powered. Is there any particular benefit to switching these to electric? Both units are a bit over ten years old, but still work fine. I guess it doesn't hurt to add a 30V outlet next to each one, for future-proofing if nothing else. Electric dryers kinda suck as compared to gas. I know heat pump dryers are a thing, but my very limited experience with them seems to suggest they suck even worse then regular electric dryers. Your washer isn't gas powered, so that's not a concern. Do you put up christmas lights? A soffit mounted outlet w/ a switch somewhere convenient is really nice.
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Apr 22, 2023 01:12
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devicenull posted:Electric dryers kinda suck as compared to gas. I know heat pump dryers are a thing, but my very limited experience with them seems to suggest they suck even worse then regular electric dryers. Thanks, that makes sense! Sounds like I should just focus on running a circuit specifically for the water heater, then. I guess that should simplify the run slightly. It's just possible to do the run in 360 degrees of bend...I wonder if there's any value to be had in putting an access box in the middle.
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Apr 22, 2023 03:46
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Yep. LVL's for sure, but a good lumberyard will have longer rafter/joist stock, though it will probably be untreated. I just bought some SYP 24' 2x10s. They were $40 each. They had up to 34' long in 2x6, 2x8, and 2x10-I didn't ask about 2x12s. Anything longer than 28' was finger jointed, but shorter than that was solid. If you live near a lake or the coast where people build docks, there will probably be a good selection of longer, heavier (rough, full cut 2x that are actually 2") treated lumber. I used pressure treated 6x6 12 ft for the pillars, $112 each. Maybe I can take out a HELOC loan for the longer piece.
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Apr 22, 2023 07:02
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The light switch for my kitchen has three identically colored wires going to three contacts on it for some reason. It behaves like this:  Does this suggest that there is (or was) a second switch for the light somewhere?
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Apr 22, 2023 13:46
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Flipperwaldt posted:The light switch for my kitchen has three identically colored wires going to three contacts on it for some reason.
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Apr 22, 2023 13:52
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Slugworth posted:Yeah, that's a three way switch. One is the common, the other two are travellers.
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Apr 22, 2023 14:01
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Flipperwaldt posted:Weird. I don't know of another switch or where it would even make sense to have one given the layout. I guess I'll put a nut on the vestigial wire and leave it there when replacing it with a regular switch? You could just replace it with another 3 way switch, I think it would only cost you like 50 cents more than a regular one and the decision might come in handy one day. (assuming you're just replacing because it's time rather than explicitly because it is an unexplained 3 way switch)
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Apr 22, 2023 14:05
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Flipperwaldt posted:Weird. I don't know of another switch or where it would even make sense to have one given the layout. I guess I'll put a nut on the vestigial wire and leave it there when replacing it with a regular switch? The actual obvious reason would be that all light switches in the house use the same model. Or the other switch was a pull cord directly at the lamp. Think about if either of those appeals to you. Maybe you should also find out where the other wire leads to, and put a label on it.
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Apr 22, 2023 14:30
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The wiring goes through tubes embedded in the brick walls, which limits what I can look at. I've looked at nearby switches and outlets and none of them expose any red wire like the switch does. Actually there's not even any red wire coming from the ceiling where the lamp is. Love to see it!
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Apr 22, 2023 16:35
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I’m looking for ideas on stopping my neighbours customers from destroying my hedge. I’m also thinking about putting a solid fence right up to the property line, with the hedge on the inside for me to enjoy. He has those parking blocks but they keep inching over the line, and lots of cars’ front or rear ends extend well past them and smush into my hedge anyway. 
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Apr 22, 2023 17:07
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mr.belowaverage posted:I’m also thinking about putting a solid fence right up to the property line This as well as any other idea I could think of is heavily dependent on what you're allowed to do, which is a very local jurisdiction thing. Have you reached out to your municipal code enforcement to discuss this with them?
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Apr 22, 2023 17:26
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mr.belowaverage posted:I’m looking for ideas on stopping my neighbours customers from destroying my hedge. I’m also thinking about putting a solid fence right up to the property line, with the hedge on the inside for me to enjoy. Put up a very visible sign warning people about the aggressive beehives inside those bushes that will react to being shaken.
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Apr 22, 2023 18:32
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mr.belowaverage posted:I’m looking for ideas on stopping my neighbours customers from destroying my hedge. I’m also thinking about putting a solid fence right up to the property line, with the hedge on the inside for me to enjoy. Push a thin, bendy pole into the ground behind the concrete thingy at each spot, make it tall enough to stick up above the hood. Parkers will stop after their bumper hits the pole. Mean addition: drive a length of #8 rebar at a 45-degree angle and positioned so that the top is at bumper height just beyond the bendy poles. withak fucked around with this message at 19:10 on Apr 22, 2023 |
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Apr 22, 2023 19:05
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Subtle approach: go in after hours and shift the concrete thingies six inches or so into the parking lot.
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Apr 22, 2023 19:12
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Moat
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Apr 22, 2023 19:13
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If you build a fence you're just going to end up with a fence that has been bumped into a hundred times by cars instead of bushes. Combo of two of the above answers, ask if you can install something like these on the concrete blocks: https://www.uline.com/Product/Detai...JIaAgZMEALw_wcB https://www.myparkingsign.com/Sign-...XAaAt0UEALw_wcB Then the blocks are doing their job and you can still move the indicators if they're not in the right spot.
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Apr 22, 2023 20:29
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Fozzy The Bear posted:I used pressure treated 6x6 12 ft for the pillars, $112 each. That's a pretty good price. $3 per board foot is getting harder and harder to come by. I just got a quote for $6 and change for some loving redwood. That's 50% more than like 2 years ago.
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Apr 22, 2023 23:07
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Flipperwaldt posted:Moat This is the real dream Blowjob Overtime posted:If you build a fence you're just going to end up with a fence that has been bumped into a hundred times by cars instead of bushes. True. I added the plan for a fence to my post as whatever I do, I’d like it to function to protect the fence. Motronic posted:This as well as any other idea I could think of is heavily dependent on what you're allowed to do, which is a very local jurisdiction thing. Not directly, but I am familiar with our codes. I can’t make it tall, ie; no spite fences. Most other constructs would be ok withak posted:Push a thin, bendy pole into the ground behind the concrete thingy at each spot, make it tall enough to stick up above the hood. Parkers will stop after their bumper hits the pole. I’ve thought of the rebar idea, but experience tells me it will still get mushed. It will just also do a little damage to the many parkers that hit it every day. withak posted:Subtle approach: go in after hours and shift the concrete thingies six inches or so into the parking lot. They’ve been moved many times. Sometimes the guy even removes them, then puts them back. It’s a deli and European imported food store. There are dozens and dozens of customers per day. Small lot, but lots of turnaround.
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Apr 23, 2023 00:41
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mr.belowaverage posted:It’s a deli and European imported food store. There are dozens and dozens of customers per day. Small lot, but lots of turnaround. Ask your neighbor to compensate you the damage to your hedge in the form of free food.
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Apr 23, 2023 00:43
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Hey smashed hedge goon, what does your jurisdiction think about jersey barriers? Throw a bunch of them bitches up on your property line E: I think those big rear end concrete blocks are even cheaper. . wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 01:16 on Apr 23, 2023 |
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Apr 23, 2023 01:10
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This is the way. They'll learn to stop before they get to the hedges real goddamn quick.
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Apr 23, 2023 01:58
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Today I was doing a small job for a friend in a commercial space. I took down a mounted support thing that had some lag screws. I hung a much less important thing vertically up from there. The old thing was solid as hell and had what were obviously 5/16 lag bolts holding it in, so I assumed it was in studs. So i used a level to follow the studs up, drilled holes, and... no studs?? So I peeked into a ceiling tile and turns out it's a metal framed building. Anyway I ended up making do with toggle bolts and even that was probably overkill for the application so all's well that ends well. But I'm perplexed about how the existing thing was mounted. I took one out and it was very much biting into something... but no anchor in there, all I could see was drywall. I was curious and tried my own lag bolts higher up in the same vertical line and they just spun and spun in the drywall, no bite at all I'm just super curious what the hell those lag bolts were biting into! Some kind of wooden support bar would make sense but there's no access to the back side of the wall that I can tell, the other side is another room. Anyone with experience hanging poo poo in metal framed buildings know how it's usually done?
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Apr 23, 2023 05:08
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alnilam posted:Some kind of wooden support bar would make sense
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Apr 23, 2023 11:52
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Huh... so what do you do if those needs change? Tear out the wall and re-block it?
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Apr 23, 2023 14:19
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Ask your neighbor to compensate you the damage to your hedge in the form of free food. He’s friendly, but not accommodating. Requests are instantly forgotten or ignored. I’m thinking of some kind of reinforced rail running about average bumper height. It would be on their side of the fence to prevent the most frequent impact. Then fence, then hedge. I’m thinking some kind of tubular steel, with vertical posts, and a 45 degree brace that could run through the fence. I guess I’m wondering if there is a more elegant solution.
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Apr 23, 2023 14:55
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alnilam posted:Huh... so what do you do if those needs change?
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Apr 23, 2023 17:01
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But doctor...
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Apr 23, 2023 17:26
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