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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Native wildflower seed mix is in. Got a quick thunderstorm after broadcast seeding, then I was able to get out there and roll it then I covered it with straw.



I could not find any clay kitty litter that didn't have scents or whatever in it to use to bulk up the tiny and light wildflower seeds:



I found this "worlds best" cat litter by Love which is corn based - I think it's husks or something (https://www.worldsbestcatlitter.com/clumping-cat-litter/). Small granules. It worked way better than the many times I've used clay litter as a bulking agent. I'd highly recommend it.

E: lol I just realized as I am putting things away that I set the kitty litter down next to a 50 lb bag of oil dry - which I always keep in stock and is nothing but straight clay kitty litter. I could have used that. Sometimes not remembering poo poo had side benefits. This is that one time.

Motronic fucked around with this message at 21:59 on Apr 15, 2023

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Smugworth
Apr 18, 2003


lite_sleepr posted:

In the fall I'm going to put down a one two punch combo of Celsius, Sedgehammer+, and a surfactant. Then in early winter I'll put down pre-emergent.

It'll be great.

These herbicides are expensive af what's up with that?

The nice thing is once you actually get a good lawn established that can outcompete most weeds, you only need a bit for spot treatment

blugu64
Jul 17, 2006

Do you realize that fluoridation is the most monstrously conceived and dangerous communist plot we have ever had to face?

lite_sleepr posted:

I'm in North Texas. 2 hours from DFW. I'm told that I have common Bermuda. Which sucks, I'd rather have zoysia, so perhaps once I have the weeds under control and I learn a little bit more I will see about trying to replace the Bermuda with zoysia by overseeding zoysia

https://www.thelawnforum.com/threads/bermuda-bible-the-new-testament.1651/

Serious this is a great resource for Bermuda lawns.

Getting PH down that low is going to be tough/expensive. Could put some sulfur down, but it’s a long process.

fknlo
Jul 6, 2009


Fun Shoe
Hello landscaping thread. I bought a house last August.

This was the yard when I was first able to mow it a couple weeks after buying



This is what I have now









I have dandelions everywhere that I need to deal with, but what's going to be my plan for that square of dead stuff and weeds. It's almost all weeds at the moment. I sprayed a bunch of dandelions with some ortho weed killer I had(not the ground clear in the picture) and it didn't do much. I haven't had a yard that was this bad before.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

fknlo posted:

Hello landscaping thread. I bought a house last August.

This was the yard when I was first able to mow it a couple weeks after buying



This is what I have now









I have dandelions everywhere that I need to deal with, but what's going to be my plan for that square of dead stuff and weeds. It's almost all weeds at the moment. I sprayed a bunch of dandelions with some ortho weed killer I had(not the ground clear in the picture) and it didn't do much. I haven't had a yard that was this bad before.

Optimally you'll hit that with Surge or similar, slit seed after 2 weeks, cover with straw or similar and water daily for 2-3 weeks.

ohhyeah
Mar 24, 2016

Upgrade posted:

I bought and planted three boxwoods to go along side one that came with the house. When we took them out of the pots the soil was really really heavy clay. I ended up removing the outer layer of clay to expose the roots - was this a bad thing? Very conflicting answers online. It’s been about a day and the leaves are a little droopy.

No you probably did a good thing. In most cases it’s better to open up that root ball. Keep them well watered, every day or two, for a couple weeks and be prepared to water them through the summer if it’s dry. They’ll be fine, they’re just need time and water to get their roots reestablished.

The Wonder Weapon
Dec 16, 2006



We get some nasty wind around here, and it managed to blow down a metal screen fence enough that the deer could eat my sapling trees. This is a Thuja Green Giant (Arborvitae) that they got to. I've got ~20 of them that look like this. Are these effectively dead, or will they grow back?

Sapling as it arrived, basically:


Mine:

Woodpile
Mar 30, 2013

fknlo posted:

Hello landscaping thread. I bought a house last August.

This was the yard when I was first able to mow it a couple weeks after buying



This is what I have now









I have dandelions everywhere that I need to deal with, but what's going to be my plan for that square of dead stuff and weeds. It's almost all weeds at the moment. I sprayed a bunch of dandelions with some ortho weed killer I had(not the ground clear in the picture) and it didn't do much. I haven't had a yard that was this bad before.

If you've got the budget - hardscape as much as you can (not the entire yard) but a patio, garden paths, etc. Dig the rest up and replace with native or native cultivars in flower beds/bayscapes. Throw in a vegetable garden. I would go apeshit in that yard.

Your Uncle Dracula
Apr 16, 2023
Any hot recommendations for a battery-powered cordless lawnmower? Doesn't need to be self-propelled or rideable. I've got an old-timey completely manual push mower, but it has a hard time getting low. And apologies if this is the wrong thread.


I've always been of the belief that if you cut into it a little bit with some clippers and there's any water or greenness to it -- that is to say, it's not a totally dry stick -- it's still got life in it.

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


Woodpile posted:

If you've got the budget - hardscape as much as you can (not the entire yard) but a patio, garden paths, etc. Dig the rest up and replace with native or native cultivars in flower beds/bayscapes. Throw in a vegetable garden. I would go apeshit in that yard.
Bayscapes?

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

The Wonder Weapon posted:

We get some nasty wind around here, and it managed to blow down a metal screen fence enough that the deer could eat my sapling trees. This is a Thuja Green Giant (Arborvitae) that they got to. I've got ~20 of them that look like this. Are these effectively dead, or will they grow back?

Sapling as it arrived, basically:


Mine:


You won't really know until spring... kinda depends on how established it was if it'll recover. Luckily it's small enough that if it recovers you probably won't notice. (I've got a few where the deer got to the middle leaving a very weird shape)

Woodpile
Mar 30, 2013

I've heard the term so often that I thought it meant a slightly raised, rounded but irregular bed (shaped not unlike a bay) filled with plants. Just googled it. It's a conservation thing - good for the watershed.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





In honor of the old thread title, my wife got the new lawnmower out today:

The Wonder Weapon
Dec 16, 2006



Ok, going to hold out hope those trees hang on then. Thanks.

Lincoln
May 12, 2007

Ladies.
Ok so apparently core-aerating your lawn with a drill & auger bit isn’t new. I did it about 2 weeks ago to a patch of lawn that was hyper-compacted. I then top-dressed with a 50/50 mix of manured soil & peat moss. Since then I found out plenty of people have done this before. Anyhoo, I’ll let you know how it worked.

BonHair
Apr 28, 2007

IOwnCalculus posted:

In honor of the old thread title, my wife got the new lawnmower out today:



God drat I wish goats made sense for me. They're great! If I ever go mad and move to a rural area, I'm getting so many goats.

Meanwhile, I spent the last couple weeks putting up a greenhouse and some raised flowerbeds for cucumbers and hedging respectively and putting down some raspberries and other berries. I'm trying to limit my lawn to only the parts where I will actually put down a blanket and sit, anything else needs to be edible for be or the bees.

Smugworth
Apr 18, 2003


Any reason not to glyphpsphate all along my chainlink fence line? I have no intention of weed-eating more than two or 3 times a year

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Smugworth posted:

Any reason not to glyphpsphate all along my chainlink fence line? I have no intention of weed-eating more than two or 3 times a year
It'll look kinda bad, make sure you don't overspray onto your neighbor's yard. Otherwise, no.

Smugworth
Apr 18, 2003


I've got wood runners all along the bottom like this but maybe testing a section is in order. I think one of my neighbors does it already against the section of fence along his property, it's not super noticeable and should still look better than having two foot stalls of grass growing into the chainlink

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
Well, my in-laws are coming into town next weekend and my wife suddenly has the urge to take care of this patio situation !!!THIS WEEK!!! before they get here. We've talked about trying to find matching stone and lay a similar pattern but I wasn't aware it was happening this week. The POs just put those cheap gray rectangle patio pavers and white decorative rock which has long been buried in dirt, kicked up, or knocked loose. Below that was weed barrier cloth.



We went to a rockery and picked up a few Penn blue tumbled stones. I kept loading and my wife said she thought it was enough. I should've trusted my intuition. Every project always requires a little more than you think.

First, I had to dig down a few inches to create room for the rocks, sand, and pavers. Fuuuuck me.There were two old cement post anchors sitting just an inch below the surface so they wouldn't have allowed the stone to sit level. They were about 2' long and weighed at least 100lbs each. Then I hit a bunch of roots. That was unpleasant.



I used 8 bags of base rock and 8 bags of leveling sand for the small area. I laid the pavers out in my driveway and instantly realized we only got two large ones, the rest were very small fillers when compared to the existing rocks. I'm definitely going to need a few more.



When I laid them out, I didn't like the size disparity when compared to some of the smaller rocks we found around the house when we moved in. Given it's a walk way, the small ones are more prone to coming loose and don't fit in. The big ones are 2" thick and super heavy so they're not moving. I need more of those. I want it to look like it's part of the whole, not an addition.



This looks too different. More heavy rear end rocks it is.

The Dave
Sep 9, 2003

Disclaimer: I don’t know poo poo about hardscaping

Shouldn’t you try to match the stone after it’s been power washed? Otherwise it seems like you’re now trying to match another variable (weathering) and if it all ever does get washed it might be mismatched?

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


I think if you split the big rocks in half they'll be more at the scale fo your existing rocks and blend better with all the other ones too.

Moving that poo poo around must suuuuck

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?

The Dave posted:

Disclaimer: I don’t know poo poo about hardscaping

Shouldn’t you try to match the stone after it’s been power washed? Otherwise it seems like you’re now trying to match another variable (weathering) and if it all ever does get washed it might be mismatched?

As far as matching the stone, I'm not too concerned with color/aging at the moment. I was more concerned with the type/size/shape of the rock matching. The aging can happen naturally over time, or if it really bugs me, I can look into dying/staining the rock to look more similar in color.

It was difficult enough to find rock that looked similar (large, flat, 1.5-2" thick, rounded edges). This stuff was the closest I could find. Everything else was thin, jagged flag stone which wouldn't visually match at all.


Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Moving that poo poo around must suuuuck

The average rock is about 12-18" wide by about 24" long and 2 inches thick, so probably anywhere between 50-100lbs.

It is ... not fun.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Your Uncle Dracula posted:

Any hot recommendations for a battery-powered cordless lawnmower? Doesn't need to be self-propelled or rideable. I've got an old-timey completely manual push mower, but it has a hard time getting low. And apologies if this is the wrong thread.

I like my basic 20" Ryobi 40V. Got it at Direct Tools "factory blemished" and on sale for just under $200. One charge is more than enough for my .23 acre.
https://www.directtoolsoutlet.com/product/RY401110US

They sell new, refurbed, and blemished tools, Ryobi and Ridgid. Ryobi has 13", 16", and 18" mowers as well, if your lawn is even smaller than mine.
https://www.directtoolsoutlet.com/s...evance&catalog=

ScamWhaleHolyGrail
Dec 24, 2009

first ride
a little nervous but excited
Oh no, my wallet. Everything I've convinced myself I don't need but actually really really could use (tiny electric chainsaw on a pole) is on there.

Douche4Sale
May 8, 2003

...and then God said, "Let there be douche!"

For those that don't know, factory blemished is still basically new. Ryobi can technically only be sold new at Home Depot, so they are sold as factory blemished to get around that. Typically, the box might be banged up or have a hole, but every tool I've gotten has been immaculate.

Refurbished is legit refurbished with all the potential caveats of that and a shorter warranty. Personally, I would not get refurbished as the savings aren't worth the risk to me vs blemished.

caluki
Nov 12, 2000
I know the answer to these questions often comes down to where you live, but I just got a proposal for some landscaping work including a 140 square foot permeable patio:

• Footprint of patio (13.5' x 10.5') will be excavated to an overall depth of 14", and an additional 6" trench through the center of footprint.
• Non-woven geotextile fabric will be installed and pinned in place at the bottom and along sides of excavated area.
• Additional 6" trench will be backfilled with 3/4" clean stone, with perforated pipe in place to carry excess water to drain site in front right yard (small dry well or NDS Flow Well).
• Bottom of overall excavated area will be backfilled with a 6" layer of 2" clean stone to aid drainage.
• Paver base will be constructed of 4" layer of 3/4" clean stone.
• Bedding layer will be set with 1" of screeded 3/8" clean stone.
• Techo-Bloc Blu 80 mm 6" x 13" pavers will be installed in a soldier course to form border of patio.
• Techo-Bloc Pure permeable pavers will be installed to create patio surface.
• Patio will be held in place with aluminum edge restraints.
• Paver joints will be backfilled with Gator Aqua Rock to ensure joints are permeable.

And the price for the patio alone came back at nearly $18k. I have issues with impervious coverage allowance on the (very small) lot, but the drainage is actually fine. This is way more expensive than I was expecting... do I just have the wrong expectations of how much this stuff costs, or is the quote high? We'd be fine with some sort of gravel patio, so if this is around the going rate i'll probably re-think the original plan.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

That could be expensive, it could be fine. Depends on your local market and the access/complexities of the site.

If you don't like the price get more bids.

caluki
Nov 12, 2000

Motronic posted:

That could be expensive, it could be fine. Depends on your local market and the access/complexities of the site.

If you don't like the price get more bids.

Yeah, i'll do that. Does the extent of the excavation and fill look like overkill, or is that pretty normal for this type of application?

BigFactory
Sep 17, 2002

caluki posted:

Yeah, i'll do that. Does the extent of the excavation and fill look like overkill, or is that pretty normal for this type of application?

That definitely sounds like how I would want my patio built if money was not an object. It’s more earth removal than I would do in my yard, but I’m built on sand.

fknlo
Jul 6, 2009


Fun Shoe

Woodpile posted:

If you've got the budget - hardscape as much as you can (not the entire yard) but a patio, garden paths, etc. Dig the rest up and replace with native or native cultivars in flower beds/bayscapes. Throw in a vegetable garden. I would go apeshit in that yard.

The plan is to eventually put mulch or rock around the entire area around the pool and do plantings and stone walking things around it. That doesn't cover that one patch though. I do plan on doing native wildflowers in that raised bed for now. I sprayed the raised bed down with the ground clear and it's mediocre at best at keeping the things dead.

Douche4Sale
May 8, 2003

...and then God said, "Let there be douche!"

am planting some bare root shrubs ( elderberry, serviceberry, etc) tomorrow and realized I need some sort of way to protect them from deer and rabbits. They're a lot more fragile than I had in my mind.

I'm thinking of just driving a 3 ft wooden stake in the ground maybe 6in away and then having a cylinder of 1/4" wire stapled to the stake (so 12in in diameter around shrub). Does that make sense or is there something better (I don't want to spend a lot)?

Also, at what point can you decide a shrub or small sapling is safe to leave unfenced?

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


A cylinder of hardware cloth, floating above the ground, stapled only on one side, will do nothing to deter either deer or rabbits. Rabbits will come up from under, deer will push the whole thing over. Hungry animals work hard to get to food sources.

As far as when to leave it unfenced, how many deer/rabbits are there in your area? If the answer is, as I assume, lots, shrubs are always going to need protection. I'm about to spend $$$$ to put deer fence around my yard, because it's the only thing that has a chance of working. (And it won't do a drat thing to keep out rabbits and gophers.)

Minimum would to put actual anchored fences around each plant or the planting area. Three stakes around each plant, with hardware cloth wrapped around them and buried several inches below ground would be a good start, but it's only going to protect the plant as far as the height of the wire.

Arsenic Lupin fucked around with this message at 23:29 on Apr 29, 2023

Douche4Sale
May 8, 2003

...and then God said, "Let there be douche!"

Hmm, maybe my money, time, and effort would be better spent seeding a bunch of alfalfa and clover around the yard.

ohhyeah
Mar 24, 2016
I use 2-3 bamboo stakes and thread them through my wire plant cages, which are cylinders held together with zip ties. If there is enough other food around your plants will be pretty safe. You might lose some but bareroot plants are cheap. This is all assuming these aren’t precious specimens. I would keep them caged at least this year and next.

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
So I finished the patio extension. Our PO just put a few regular blocks to continue the walk way.

600lbs of tumbled irregular bluestone, 400lbs of sand, 600lbs of gravel later ...





The rocks don't match as the current ones have probably been in the ground for decades, so we'll see how they age but if not I'm already looking into how to dye/stain them. But also :effort:

BigFactory
Sep 17, 2002

Verman posted:

So I finished the patio extension. Our PO just put a few regular blocks to continue the walk way.

600lbs of tumbled irregular bluestone, 400lbs of sand, 600lbs of gravel later ...





The rocks don't match as the current ones have probably been in the ground for decades, so we'll see how they age but if not I'm already looking into how to dye/stain them. But also :effort:

That came out pretty good! I was very skeptical after the first pic you posted but that came out great

Fozzy The Bear
Dec 11, 1999

Nothing much, watching the game, drinking a bud
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HQJm4pd0x3Y
No Mow May!

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Anyone recognize this stuff? It’s lining these tall (2.5’?) raised beds in my backyard. Does it look like it’s actually waterproof?



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bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Verman posted:

So I finished the patio extension. Our PO just put a few regular blocks to continue the walk way.

600lbs of tumbled irregular bluestone, 400lbs of sand, 600lbs of gravel later ...





The rocks don't match as the current ones have probably been in the ground for decades, so we'll see how they age but if not I'm already looking into how to dye/stain them. But also :effort:

I wouldn’t bother, looks pretty good to me

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