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hooah
Feb 6, 2006
WTF?
Well, the tarp I bought for the sandbox cover in November already has a slit through it. I suspect from rubbing on the PVC pipe joints. I'll probably cover the joints with a few layers of duct tape to soften any sharp edges, but is there anything else I should consider? And does anyone make a durable 7' square tarp?

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Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
I have some 1980s wood pella windows that need attention. I have basics of scrap, sand then paint. Should I be caulking/siliconing the wood joints?

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Caulk and paint

Make it what it ain't

(seriously) sure painter's caulk on the joinery is fine. Tight joints don't require as much effort to pack

Cowslips Warren
Oct 29, 2005

What use had they for tricks and cunning, living in the enemy's warren and paying his price?

Grimey Drawer
I want to Gorilla Glue some small paintings (16x24) to make one large painting. I have fabric Gorilla Glue, but what do I use to hold the paintings together while it forms up, large binder clips or actual C clamps?

Flipperwaldt
Nov 11, 2011

Won't somebody think of the starving hamsters in China?



Band clamp?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

alnilam posted:

Huh... so what do you do if those needs change? Tear out the wall and re-block it?

Yes. It's just drywall. It's fast, cheap and easy to work with. It was designed to be so.

I know it's kind of a show stopper for most home gamers, but it's barely a consideration for pros.

Corla Plankun
May 8, 2007

improve the lives of everyone

Cowslips Warren posted:

I want to Gorilla Glue some small paintings (16x24) to make one large painting. I have fabric Gorilla Glue, but what do I use to hold the paintings together while it forms up, large binder clips or actual C clamps?

are they on canvases? If yes I think glue could potentially rip the canvases and screwing the backs into a shared plank would be a better idea.

Cowslips Warren
Oct 29, 2005

What use had they for tricks and cunning, living in the enemy's warren and paying his price?

Grimey Drawer

Corla Plankun posted:

are they on canvases? If yes I think glue could potentially rip the canvases and screwing the backs into a shared plank would be a better idea.

Yeah they are canvas paintings.

lil poopendorfer
Nov 13, 2014

by the sex ghost

Cowslips Warren posted:

I want to Gorilla Glue some small paintings (16x24) to make one large painting. I have fabric Gorilla Glue, but what do I use to hold the paintings together while it forms up, large binder clips or actual C clamps?

Maybe get a sheet of plywood that’s slightly larger than the end result, lay it on top and distribute weights throughout the plywood? Put cardboard in between the plywood and paintings to protect their surface

parthenocarpy
Dec 18, 2003

Is there a hobbyist AI thread anywhere?

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Calidus posted:

I have some 1980s wood pella windows that need attention. I have basics of scrap, sand then paint. Should I be caulking/siliconing the wood joints?



You've got a water leak. You may want to call a window company and have them reseal that window. Once that's done, focus on fixing the damage.

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!

kid sinister posted:

You've got a water leak. You may want to call a window company and have them reseal that window. Once that's done, focus on fixing the damage.

I have gone back a forth on if its actually leaking or if that just 40 years on condensation that no one paid attention to because its 7ft off the ground.

lil poopendorfer
Nov 13, 2014

by the sex ghost
Looks like the seal on the window itself is still good, there’s no condensation or fogging inside of it.


Calidus posted:

I have gone back a forth on if its actually leaking or if that just 40 years on condensation that no one paid attention to because its 7ft off the ground.

This is my guess

Kwolok
Jan 4, 2022
Hi all, my S.O. recently repainted our concrete patio using this paint: https://www.valspar.com/en/products/concrete-floor-coatings/porch-floor-patio-acrylic-enamel-with-heat-relief-technology

Now she wants to seal it but I thought that would be unnecessary since the paint works effectively as a sealer already. Should a coat of sealer be applied after that paint has dried?

Final Blog Entry
Jun 23, 2006

"Love us with money or we'll hate you with hammers!"
I wouldn't. A clear sealer will give you an extra sacrificial wear layer for high traffic, but it will complicate maintenance touch ups and repainting in the future. Keep it simple, the beauty of a single component water-based product like that on a floor is it's easy to do some maintenance painting or to prep and repaint down the road.

Hed
Mar 31, 2004

Fun Shoe

Kwolok posted:

Hi all, my S.O. recently repainted our concrete patio using this paint: https://www.valspar.com/en/products/concrete-floor-coatings/porch-floor-patio-acrylic-enamel-with-heat-relief-technology

Now she wants to seal it but I thought that would be unnecessary since the paint works effectively as a sealer already. Should a coat of sealer be applied after that paint has dried?

Why is she trying to seal it (what does she hope to accomplish)? Concrete likes to breathe.

Nottherealaborn
Nov 12, 2012
I couldn’t find it anywhere, but is there a thread for general questions about homeowners insurance and how to ensure the estimate you receive for covered repairs is fair?

We had a garbage disposal break, leaking water in the cabinets and destroying those cabinets. But insurance only wants to cover replacing those cabinets, doesn’t care if we can’t find matching cabinets for the undamaged cabinets, and only wants to pay for refinishing (but not replacing) the affected sections of wood floor by the cabinet.

Although it makes sense to not necessarily replace undamaged cabinets, replacing the damaged cabinets with like would be very difficult or impossible. Additionally, our insurance does seem to have a clause about change in value of the home from damage, so I’m not sure if that could be used to argue they would need to replace all cabinets to match each other.

Sorry if this is the wrong spot for this question, since this is focused on quick DIY questions. I’d love to be pointed to the correct thread if this isn’t it.

Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

Nottherealaborn posted:

I couldn’t find it anywhere, but is there a thread for general questions about homeowners insurance and how to ensure the estimate you receive for covered repairs is fair?

We had a garbage disposal break, leaking water in the cabinets and destroying those cabinets. But insurance only wants to cover replacing those cabinets, doesn’t care if we can’t find matching cabinets for the undamaged cabinets, and only wants to pay for refinishing (but not replacing) the affected sections of wood floor by the cabinet.

Although it makes sense to not necessarily replace undamaged cabinets, replacing the damaged cabinets with like would be very difficult or impossible. Additionally, our insurance does seem to have a clause about change in value of the home from damage, so I’m not sure if that could be used to argue they would need to replace all cabinets to match each other.

Sorry if this is the wrong spot for this question, since this is focused on quick DIY questions. I’d love to be pointed to the correct thread if this isn’t it.
Every company/plan is different, but fwiw, this is highly unusual in my experience, having demo'd hundreds of kitchens for insured losses.

The floor is less unusual, and repair/replace is based on the extent of the damage, but again, in my experience, they refinish the whole room, and any contiguous rooms without a clear break in the flooring. If they're just refinishing one spot in the room, well, hopefully you get a good flooring contractor.

pmchem
Jan 22, 2010


BFC has an insurance thread, I’d link it but I’m mobile posting

Nottherealaborn
Nov 12, 2012

pmchem posted:

BFC has an insurance thread, I’d link it but I’m mobile posting

Thanks! I found it and posted there. Appreciate the answers.

cr0y
Mar 24, 2005




🤔

alnilam
Nov 10, 2009


Get out of there before your ears implode :ohdear:

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009



https://www.theonion.com/home-depot-releases-new-bluetooth-cordless-hose-1819592894

Beef Of Ages
Jan 11, 2003

Your dumb is leaking.
I have a crevasse under the sidewalk in front of my house that I'd like to fill in with something that will stop the erosion.



The concrete on top has cracked but doesn't feel unstable when I, a goon of substantial proportions, step on it. The gutter from the front of the house drains here because everything slopes away from the house. Over time (well before we bought the place two years ago) that drainage has eroded under the concrete by about a foot and a half deep by about six inches wide.

What's the best way to fix this? I've thought about gravel (not pea, but something small enough to fit in there but rigid to provide support), or dumping a bag of concrete in there and letting water do its thing. Is either of those appropriate or is there a better way? I live in the upper Midwest so it regularly freezes but I wouldn't expect concrete to move much if that's the right approach.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
Pack it with gravel. Shove it in with a stick or a broom handle or something.

Cool NIN Shirt
Nov 26, 2007

by vyelkin
You’re dealing w 5-6”+ of concrete, that’s not gonna move. Maybe it’s considered a “fall hazard” because of the hole .. Pea gravel to fill it, a larger boulder to cover it, plant a shrub in front of it, asphalt patch, roofing cement.

Anything not involving more concrete ought to work, really

Beef Of Ages
Jan 11, 2003

Your dumb is leaking.
Thank you both. Gravel deployed.




Time will tell.

bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

I'm cutting a hole for a doggy door, and I've come across these two... wires? they are tight and rubbery, don't feel like alarm or electrical wires. Any ideas?

https://imgur.com/a/hjaHFPH

Less Fat Luke
May 23, 2003

Exciting Lemon

bobua posted:

I'm cutting a hole for a doggy door, and I've come across these two... wires? they are tight and rubbery, don't feel like alarm or electrical wires. Any ideas?

https://imgur.com/a/hjaHFPH
In the few houses I've seen with structured cabling blue is CAT5/6 ethernet and green is speaker wire, is your house wired with either of those?

bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

Less Fat Luke posted:

In the few houses I've seen with structured cabling blue is CAT5/6 ethernet and green is speaker wire, is your house wired with either of those?

I'd recognize ethernet, definitely not that. this is the dining room, floor level, exterior wall, and I should have specified those wires\cords are between the brick and... masonry sheet? They are not interior running through the studs\insulation.

I was thinking they were some sort of leveling line for the brick layer or something. Feels like they will stretch above the doggy door installation so I'm not worried about cutting them, but with them being pulled tight like they are I felt like they might have some sort of purpose I would wreck buy stretching them off level.

Here's a video that might make it a little more clear

https://imgur.com/a/Unh2o5L

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

bobua posted:

I'd recognize ethernet, definitely not that. this is the dining room, floor level, exterior wall, and I should have specified those wires\cords are between the brick and... masonry sheet? They are not interior running through the studs\insulation.

I was thinking they were some sort of leveling line for the brick layer or something. Feels like they will stretch above the doggy door installation so I'm not worried about cutting them, but with them being pulled tight like they are I felt like they might have some sort of purpose I would wreck buy stretching them off level.

Here's a video that might make it a little more clear

https://imgur.com/a/Unh2o5L

Do you have a security system? Is there any marking on any of it?

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005
Doorbell wiring?

GWBBQ
Jan 2, 2005


Mysteries of wood and metal: why does the lathe do that, and why did someone have to draw a line on it to mark where it starts doing it rather than doing it where the markings start?

Probably because it's from Harbor Freight and the drill chuck I'm using most likely isn't

Teabag Dome Scandal
Mar 19, 2002


The gate to the yard is sagging and I'm looking into what I can do to fix it. I have some 5/16" structural screws I'm going to replace the current screws in the post with but I'm wondering if I should replace the hinge too while I'm at it. I think it's 6" and seems to be sagging a bit but I'm not sure if something new would be much of an improvement.

The best I can do for shifting the hinge up looks like about an inch or so due to the bottom piece of the gate and fence. The gate itself seems solid other than the diagonal piece being backwards. I am a little concerned about not shifting the hinge enough to avoid the old holes but I think the new screws should be longer and thicker. Would it maybe make sense to reuse those holes as pilot holes with the thicker screw? Any advice is appreciated.


Cool NIN Shirt
Nov 26, 2007

by vyelkin
Re using the holes for the gate should be fine so long as the new fastener is a little longer and bigger than the previous screws. If your nervous you can use a little construction adhesive or wood glue on the screws….. unless you plan on taking them out again. Those hinges look secure though

I think it’s the backwards cross brace. Properly installed it presses the gate into the post.


When it’s backwards, like on yours, it’s just pulling the gate away from the hinges. Might pull the post out of plumb too

Brut
Aug 21, 2007
Probation
Can't post for 4 days!
I also have a hinges question, I've got these things on my kitchen cabinets, at some point a while ago one of them suddenly had a small part of the plastic fly off (see red arrow) and ever since then that door makes a very loud clicking noise every time during closing, is this a common thing that happens? What do I need to know about replacing this thing, searching for blum 1-1/4" hinge does seem to bring similar looking results, but they look kinda different, particularly on the uhh, not-door side. these seem to be the exact ones, I think?, basically I have no idea what I'm doing but I'm sick of getting jumpscared by my cabinet, and also don't wanna gently caress up my cabinet (or my hand) trying to just screw a new one in without understanding anything about it, please help.

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PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Teabag Dome Scandal posted:

The gate to the yard is sagging and I'm looking into what I can do to fix it...




How about installing a turnbuckle?

bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

kid sinister posted:

Do you have a security system? Is there any marking on any of it?

Built in 2018, there is a security system, but these wires feel like rubber, like there is no conductor in them.

No windows or doors on this wall, just electrical outlets. Back of the house but opposite the patio door. I guess I should check the attic for similar type wires but I havent noticed any when rummaging around up there.

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



I have a natural gas pipe in my attic that I am pretty sure I'll need to add support/strapping to. I was up there last week clearing out trash from POs and unless I missed them, I think I've got a 30-40ft horizontal run with no supports.

Referencing this codes page for Oregon: https://up.codes/viewer/oregon/irc-2015/chapter/24/fuel-gas#24

I'll need to measure the pipe diameter with my calipers and then support it at the appropriate intervals with some pipe clamps. All this after I wire brush/steel wool the rust off and paint the pipe with some good Rust-Oleum spray. This was all hidden under carpet remnants, fun times.

So my question is, if any of this sounds incorrect or that I'm missing a step or more, let me know!

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MrChrome
Jan 21, 2001

Brut posted:

I also have a hinges question, I've got these things on my kitchen cabinets, at some point a while ago one of them suddenly had a small part of the plastic fly off (see red arrow) and ever since then that door makes a very loud clicking noise every time during closing, is this a common thing that happens? What do I need to know about replacing this thing, searching for blum 1-1/4" hinge does seem to bring similar looking results, but they look kinda different, particularly on the uhh, not-door side. these seem to be the exact ones, I think?, basically I have no idea what I'm doing but I'm sick of getting jumpscared by my cabinet, and also don't wanna gently caress up my cabinet (or my hand) trying to just screw a new one in without understanding anything about it, please help.



I have similar hinges with the same problem. I bought an 8 pack on Amazon and I replace them as they fail. They are pretty easy to replace. Mine were these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y65Y8LR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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